Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

The issue I'm trying to avoid is confirmation bias. Everyone is guilty of it. Typically when you buy a shiny new thing and spend a lot of money, you tend to feel like it must be the greatest thing so you don't feel like you made a mistake. I see this all the time in audiophile circles. I'm at a point in my life where I can pretty much buy whatever I want and don't feel like I have any of my personal ego tied to my purchases.

So here are my impressions of some of the parts of my rig.

My NRG Prisma fits me like a glove, but I wish it were just a bit wider. It's not squeezing me and I may get used to being held in place, but this is new to me and I'm more comfortable with a bit more freedom of motion. I do think, like many people advise, that it makes sense to go to a local store if you can and try some seats out. Unfortunately there is also a difference between how a seat feels when you first sit in it and how it feels after a hour or more. So far I think the Prisma feels good long term. The cushions are dense which means they actually work and don't just bottom out. The suede feel is nice. I have no idea how well it will hold up long term. So overall good, but I was "expecting" it to be a bit loose rather than an exact fit on me. I am getting the back support I wanted, so in that sense "mission accomplished."

The NLRv3 is something I enjoy quite a bit. I think it did feel a bit more realistic with my original car seat. Maybe I just haven't gotten it dialed in yet with the racing shell. However I think the VW Passat seat felt better. The longer lever arm due to the higher position would amplify the motion, but the give in the seat would pull some of that back, so you would get similar motion but feel pressure load up more realistically. The old seat was a bit noisier with motion. The NLRv3 does have a bit of play in the center gimbal, but that is much more noticeable at rest than while it is moving. In game, I don't notice that play. The rigid racing seat does give me a better base to brake from. In Rally the normal seat was great, on the track the rigid seat is better. The NLRv3 is quiet, supports everything I care to play and is easy to configure. Combined with tactile it is extremely immersive. I still like this solution over a chassis mover because it is turn key, just works, is easy to configure has no EMI issues to worry about, sips power and is a very small form factor. I am not claiming it is as good, but just that it works well and is very easy to add to a rig.

My simple 4 x Aura tactile system driven by SimHub has worked surprisingly well. These $50 Aura units will need to be tweaked more than a more powerful Buttkicker LFE because they have a narrower frequency range and are less powerful, I believe they also need to be placed more carefully, but can be setup very effectively and like the NLRv3 they also sip power needing about 1/10th the power of a Buttkicker LFE. My homebrew amp is still working well. I did briefly look at an NU4-6000 just because it's prettier, but I like my little ghetto amp :)

I love how the vertical mount for my SC2 Pro looks and it is more rigid than the wheel deck, but it does restrict vertical placement of the wheel given the current height of the vertical profile on my Sim-Lab P1. Until I lowered my seat I could not have made this work for me. I have my vertical mount as high as it will go and with a little angle the steering wheel feels right, but it might feel "righter" if it were a bit higher and had a bit less angle.

Note: I think anyone ordering a Sim-Lab P1(X) should special order taller side profiles if they are going to use an NLRv3 which does add height to the seat. I think 5-10cm would be enough. Unfortunately there is no way a person can know that until they have both the NLRv3 and the vertical wheel mount in place. The wheel deck has a lower mount point and will hold the wheel higher.

The Sparco seat brackets are expensive, but IF you have a seat mover, the additional mount holes on it can be extremely useful. Otherwise you could mount everything to the frame around your seat and you would have clearance directly under the seat for a transducer mount.

The retractable casters are holding up well. Even though they are only rated for 100lbs each, I've accidentally used the rig without remembering to retract the casters a number of times. I've added a bit of grease to them and the round surfaces that rub against the wheel plates have worn very smooth so that they are silent and work better now. Note: They have released a new version rated for more weight, but it appears that it only has more bolt holes to attach it. It does have rubber end caps which might be a nice safety measure. I could probably do something similar with Plasti-Dip.

The suede Momo rally wheel and PSE GT3 wheels are excellent. The Momo wheel only feels good to me with gloves on which is fine but surprised me. The PSE wheel feels good with or without gloves.

The button box is working very well. As I expected I use the top left and right panels a lot as they are the ones that I laid out in a very specific way for the use I planned for them. The lower generic panel is currently getting zero use. I configured a few things for it, but I never use those features. I believe I will redesign that bottom section as soon as I know what I want it to do for me and then form will follow function. I have no idea how that will look. I am using the cup holder and Camelbak bite tube bottle and the position works well. The VR headset hangar feels critical to me now and is absolutely where my headset goes when I pull it off or before I get into my rig.

The slide pedal plate are great! I can transition from a Rally configuration with clutch to a GT configuration with properly centered brake and throttle in a matter of minutes.

The ProSim H pattern shifter feels great especially without the extension. I just set up the old rig for my son and rowed the gears on the CS 1.5 and it felt very "meh". I think it has spoiled me at bit, but it is very pricey.

The HE sequential shifter gets very little use on my rig and it's small size works for me. It does work well and I've never had a mis-shift, but do wish it had a stronger feeling of engagement. The ProSim sequential shifter would likely feel a lot better, but wouldn't fit the space I have without requiring control swapping and for the use it gets it isn't a priority. I understand the Aiologs sequential shifter feels a bit better and is also a small foot print, but once again this isn't something I feel strong enough about to change.

The HE hand brake feels much more solid than the Fanatec Handbrake felt and both the lever shape and loadcell tension can be adjusted well.

MIA:
  • The dead pedal hasn't been on my rig since I added the sliding pedal plates. ( I may remake the plate that the clutch and brake are on to extend far enough for me to attach the dead pedal at some point, but I haven't bothered)
  • The heel stop hasn't been on my rig since I raised the pedal deck.

Minor planned changes:
  • The trackball mount has been great and the placement seems ideal to me. I use the hand brake to stop my right arm in VR and just reach forward and use the trackball. Since I'm using a Logitech Diversity wireless USB chicklet that can support 6 devices, I've ordered a second trackball mouse identical to the first and will just mount it semi-permanently in place. I have had it shake free and fall twice with heavy FFB and tactile vibrations.
  • The seatbelts are working well, but I have way too much extra belt for the waist belt. Since I know that anyone who can fit in my seat now won't use anywhere near that much belt, I'm going to use my hot knife to trim the straps down.
 
Hey, when are ya posting more pics? I need more ideas to steal!

Not sure this will help, but here is a picture!

My new VIRPIL base arrives today, but I don't have it yet. And my new throttle won't be here for few more days.

I've started to rework the stick mount to go with the base. This is no where near final. I'm planning to use a couple 1/4" aluminum plates that will bolt to the stock VIRPIL mount with M5 bolts and then bolt to the stick mount with a couple 8mm bolts and shims.

That's all I can do for now. I've been off gaming the last few days and didn't use my rig much over the holiday weekend.
newstick_4575.jpg
 
Not sure this will help, but here is a picture!

My new VIRPIL base arrives today, but I don't have it yet. And my new throttle won't be here for few more days.

I've started to rework the stick mount to go with the base. This is no where near final. I'm planning to use a couple 1/4" aluminum plates that will bolt to the stock VIRPIL mount with M5 bolts and then bolt to the stick mount with a couple 8mm bolts and shims.

That's all I can do for now. I've been off gaming the last few days and didn't use my rig much over the holiday weekend.
View attachment 337154
Lol.. thanks.
 
The stick mount was interesting to design. The mount will be off center to the left behind the base for USB cable clearance. There will be two 70mm x 110mm 1/4" aluminum plates, with 5mm holes on the front edge to through bolt to the stock mount on the back of the base. There will be two 8mm holes 40mm apart in line 20mm from the left side that will bolt to the stick mount going through a couple of those 1/2" aluminum spacers. Fortunately I have 5mm x 18mm bolts and luck nuts and a few 40mm M8 bolts to make everything fit together. Now I just need to cut and drill a pair of matching aluminum plates so I can try this out.

The VIRPIL base I got is excellent. Thanks for pointing me at them @Wmacky !

The difference between it and the Warthog base are dramatic. Its motion is perfectly smooth and the spring tension is much better. The warthog 10cm extension tube I got with my flight pedals fits perfectly and the stick rather than flopping around with the extension is held in place well. This base is definitely designed for use with extension tubes.

The reason I can fit the extension pipe in place compared to the Warthog is because I have the base lowered slightly into the seat cushion and the base isn't sitting on top of a piece of 3/4" wood like it was with the Warthog base.
 
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This seems to work well. Now I just need to round the corners and finish it off.

Using my aluminum cutting blade on my table saw.
stickmount_4576.jpg


Drilled 5.5mm holes in front and 8mm bolt holes in the back.
stickmount_4578.jpg

stickmount_4579.jpg


You can see below how the mount is off centered for the USB cable. The tape was to protect my legs until I get it rounded off in back, but my legs didn't come near the back edge.
stickmount_4586.jpg


stickmount_4582.jpg
 
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It is prettied up now.
stickmount_4587.jpg

I added some reinforcement at the angle.
stickmount_4588.jpg


However I found that the piece of 40x40 profile extending between the seat brackets under the front of the seat is the weak point. You can see that I added a corner brace on top and the rigidity from side to side is very good. However the 40x40 profile is twisting slightly forward and backwards. It's not bad enough to be an issue, but that turns out to be the weakest link at the moment.
stickmount_4590.jpg
 
Have you thought about mounting the base below the seat in the traditional way?

Not with the seat mover, no. I very much like having the stick and throttle moving with the seat. Also the twisting isn't enough to cause me issues. It only happens if I push my stick hard forward or backwards and hit the end stops. With the current spring tension it won't move in any way that should impact me in flight. If anything it almost acts like a rubber stop at the end of travel.

Of course I need to try it out to verify that I'll be happy with it.
 
I feel like the seat, pedal, stick position is very good. I didn't need to move the pedals any. I may slide the pedals forward 1/2" further away from me, but it basically feels right. My legs were pushing on the top of the stock front cushion on my racing seat, but the soft cushion doesn't impede them at all.

I've also gone to using 4 large knobs to hold the two riser plates under the driving pedal deck in place, so converting between driving and flight mode is officially tools free all around again :)

One thing I like about the VIRPIL throttle is that the throttle levers are near the front of the box rather than much further back on the A-10 throttle. So when that throttle gets here, I should have easier ingress/egress and be able to step threw vs. stepping into the flight cockpit. At that point I believe I'll be a pretty happy camper in terms of liking the flight mode of my chassis.

Edit: The throttle arrives today :) !!!!!

flightMode_4591.jpg
flightMode_4593.jpg
 
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The flight throttle is also a noticeable upgrade over the Thrustmaster A-10 unit. It feels very nice in hand and I like the more generic button box approach to the rest of the throttle box. There are 4 x 5mm threaded bolt holes under the throttle levers to secure it to the underside. I still need to cut down the aluminum plate under the box and drill 4 x 5mm holes to attach it. There is more clearance, but not quite as much as I was hoping to walk into my flight cockpit. I'm not complaining. The throttles are about as far forward as they could possibly be. I just eyeballed things a bit too optimistically.
flightthrottle_4596.jpg
 
This is an incredible build thread that has been very helpful, thank you for the detailed posts.
How are you liking your current transducer mounting situation on your seat? Is it still bolted up to profile and then to the seat frame?
 
This is an incredible build thread that has been very helpful, thank you for the detailed posts.
How are you liking your current transducer mounting situation on your seat? Is it still bolted up to profile and then to the seat frame?

It is still mounted that way, but I didn't have room to mount it directly under the seat because of my NLRv3. It is a compromise that doesn't require drilling my seat, but it is a compromise. Also keep in mind that most transducers are designed to work best mounted horizontally.
 
It is still mounted that way, but I didn't have room to mount it directly under the seat because of my NLRv3. It is a compromise that doesn't require drilling my seat, but it is a compromise. Also keep in mind that most transducers are designed to work best mounted horizontally.
Thanks. I might try a similar method but mounted horizontally under the seat since I have no seat mover.
Looking forward to following your build!
 
I cut down my existing mount plate so the rubber corners didn't interfere with a flush fit and drilled the 4 x 5mm holes to attach the VIRPIL throttle.

I can still adjust the height +/- 2" and move it forward and backwards about 1".

I did move the flight pedals forward about 1" and it all feels very good. I'll try it out after I get some work done.

throttlemount_4598.jpg
 
Thanks. I might try a similar method but mounted horizontally under the seat since I have no seat mover.
Looking forward to following your build!

I think you may have caught the tail end of this thread.

My 2nd trackball mouse arrived yesterday and I have it velcro'd in place.

I just need to cut my lap belt webbing to size better. After that I don't think there is much left for me to do until I decide how to better use the bottom section of my button box.

I was thinking about adding a set of audio plugs for the transducers on the drive mode pedal deck, however I believe I can just slide the 40x80 pedal deck riser plate backwards so that I won't need to detach that deck and unplug the driving pedals, so I think I'm just about DONE for real...

Crazy huh?

I told my wife that I think I'm actually done last night and she looked at me incredulously and laughed. So there's that.
 
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That's it. Seat belt is trimmed.

I don't have any more ideas for what I would want to do to this rig that won't compromise it's size and mobility.
So we will just have to see what happens next.

This hot knife is great BTW. I use it for cutting the F6 Flexo cable sheathing and it cuts through this webbing like butter sealing the edges very nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H71TU5K
trimmedseatbelt_4599.jpg
 
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Thanks for all your hard work in documenting the build. Like others here, I have found some great ideas and stolen quite a few verbatim to use in my own rig.
I have the GT1 EVO and am still experimenting with ways to keep both the pedals and rudders installed permanently for quick change up between flight and racing.
Again, thanks!
 

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