Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

1. I'm currently happy with with my remote control fan.
2. I'm not into flight enough for that to reach my radar.
*3. OK, possibly at some point. I like the Heli collective sticks at the link below. A base and stick are around $1300 USD. They look very nice. However I'm just not itchy at this time.

I will say that I LOVE how my A-10 stick feels on the VIRPIL base. It is MUCH more realistic feeling than what I had before and I will enjoy that when I fly a Huey even if I am just using split throttle levers for collective and throttle.

Good effort :)

FWIW I still had these in my cart from the last time I looked at them.
helicoptercollective.jpg
 
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The big selling point on the Komodo Collective Base Unit is that it has two stick mount points. For your use the top would be fine and that is the default for the other units. For my rig with the seat mover, I'll want to mount the base higher and not have it interfere with my dash. Starting from level would be a real advantage in that situation.

Anyway, make sure to let me know how it works out if you get it.
 
Finishing touches: I already mentioned this, but here are the four knobs I'm using to secure the two riser profiles.
I added UHMW tape under the 40x80 profile so I can slide it without scaring up the main frame profile.
finalTouches_4603.jpg


There is just enough room for the pedal deck risers to slide forward and have clearance for the flight pedals.
I also trimmed the speaker wire going to the front two transducers and put a bit of solder on the end of the wires so they are easier to put in even though I won't need to remove them now.
FinalTouches_4600.jpg
 
I realized that I was only using my sliding table to hold my cell phone and this is much more convenient. I tried putting my phone on top of the button box, but it would fall off sort of like how my mouse did before I velcro'd it down.

Since this smart phone holder is split it can handle any width smartphone and it takes two screws to hold it in place. I replaced the stock long screws with shorter SS screws.


smartphoneholder_4608.jpg


And I just wasn't happy with that twist in my stick mount, so I have a new piece of 40x80 ordered that I will bolt directly to the bottom of my seat brackets. It should remove any twisting.

I got some seat time with my flight controls and they felt great. I did have an issue initially getting my stick base to be recognized. I updated the firmware 3 times and finally just had to unplug and plug in back in again to get the Y-axis to be recognized. All the Thrustmaster buttons worked immediately. It seems to be fine now. The flight pedals feel very good where they are. I didn't notice any twisting in game, but it looks bad to me before I'm in game.

With everything getting finalized I did a final sweep of the wiring and neatened things up a bit more, including replacing the 6' long USB cable for my HE pedals with an 18" cable. Now it all looks clean. Installed some additional profile end caps that I had left off until things were complete.

wiring_4610.jpg


That little set screw to the right of the clutch is a stop point for when I go into 2 pedal mode. I don't really need it, but it makes sure I have the same placement every time.
wiring_4611.jpg
 
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I simplified the design. There wasn't enough room for the 40x40 profile to extend back to reach this knob, so I cut the length of that profile and removed the rear knob and corner fitting. I cut the profile width to fit inside the seat brackets so I had just enough room to get end caps on. This profile was under my pedal deck, but was cosmetically scared after being under my old seat sliders. So I ordered another 420mm to replace the more visible piece under my pedal deck and cut this piece down to 398mm.
stickmount_4622.jpg


Here is the stick mount with the following adjustments. The Vertical profile was dropped about 20mm, Cut the bottom profile to extend just to the back of the 40x80 profile under the seat, added 2 x 40x40 end caps, and put a little window caulk on the round spacers so they stay in place on the quick release bolts when I remove the stick.
stickmount_4628.jpg


This is how it looks under the seat now. The front and side clamp are all I needed for rigidity and the 40x80 profile is not twisting forward and backwards like the 40x40 profile was. Everything feels very solid now.
newstickmount_4627.jpg


Lastly this is the remaining mount that stays in place permanently. The two 8mm bolts are in a strong compression fit with the underside of the seat brackets that are angled in just a bit 2nd hole back. This gives the 40x80 profile great support. This is a big improvement over using corner brackets on the front hole.
seatmount_4631.jpg
 
@Dennis Johnson Looks good.

I had thought about a spring tensioner to help make the braking feel a bit more immersive when the NLRv3 pitches me forward.
How are you liking your springs?
Are they trampoline springs like these ?

How quiet are they?
Did you try anything else?
img_1186-jpg.339650
 
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I'm still feeling like I'm pretty well done with my rig, but the tweaks are not over.

Now I'm tuning the tactile better. Wheels Slip is about the only tactile effect that can help you in a race. The rest are great for immersion, but this is the one that matters most.

Below is not where I ended up and it is just a starting point for Wheels Slip in SimHub.

I ended up using separate output channels and naming them Front Wheel Slip and Rear Wheel Slip.
The reason I split them is that my pedal transducers mounted to the pedal deck are dampened with the rubber mounts and they absorb higher frequencies. I ended up running 60-70 Hz on the seat for real wheel slip and 48-58 Hz for the pedals. I've got them set so that I can feel the wheels starting to slip before they let go.

However the Gamma and threshold need to be different for different cars. For example a road car like the MX-5 is sliding a LOT and you really don't want this kicking in until there is more slide going on. But with a GTE car you want this to start a lot earlier since they stick much better and you want to know when they are just starting to slide.

WheelSlipiRacing.jpg


Engine rpm is an effect that is mostly something you feel when you turn the engine over and while it is idling. At higher rpm I have it set to disappear until 95% at the end of redline. I don't want to feel the engine at all most of the time.

The Road bumps and impacts are working well in iRacing. I'm feeling the rumble strips perfectly as I go over them and hear them and more texture if I go off track.

I have the NLRv3 dialed back for bumps in iRacing. It will kick me up a bit if I hit a curb, but I didn't want that to be too distracting.

I'm very impressed with how it is all working together. I know there are more advanced motion systems, but in VR I feel like I have everything I want. The same goes for my transducers. I know I could get a more powerful amp and add some BK LFE's, but I'm getting all the information I need and texture I want for immersion.

Speaking of VR, the recent updates to SteamVR and iRacing have made it so I'm now running 120fps in all my races on all tracks and it looks fantastic!

My rig feels GREAT and I say that with no reservations!

Either the seat has broken in to fit me or I've gotten used to it. Either way it feels WONDERFUL and I absolutely love it. Great support and this morning after racing for a couple hours, I felt like I could race another couple hours. I haven't felt even the slightest discomfort with my back.

Other than my seat the other two contact positions are my hands and feet, so I had an impulse buy and got some new gloves and shoes.

The Sparco KG-7 gloves do feel better than my previous Hypergrips, don't have the annoying velcro wrist straps and are very grippy. All the silcone beads on the Hypergrips had worn off.

The Ferrari Drift Cat 5's feel great and I like them better than my first pair of Puma driving shoes. In the picture below are my 1st pair (way too tight) which I sent back. Make sure to buy these a FULL size larger than your typically size. They are very narrow. I tend to run 9.5-10 and I needed size 11 for these to be comfortable. For some reason I feel more serious putting them on.

shoesgloves.jpg


Revisiting the SC2 and FFB, I have the power setup very nicely and it can be helpful as I load and unload the wheel. I have a very good idea how fast I can give it throttle and if I give it a bit too much I can correct pretty quickly. The same goes for braking. I get a real sense of how much I can turn without breaking traction while I'm using trail braking.

I've not hurt myself with it since soon after I got it, but I absolutely pull my hands back by reflex if I'm about to hit a wall.

Yesterday I was driving the MX-5, Porsche 911 Cup car, and the BMW M8 GTE. I was amazed by how immersive and different each car felt. The MX-5 drifting in all corners at LimeCreek felt like the little car it is. The M8 GTE felt heavy and FAST. When I first hit Donnington with it, I felt like it was scary fast for a while as I was coming over blind hills with turns. I had a real sense of fear and felt like I was in the car and going too fast. I got over that, but the sensation was cool. The 911 Cup car felt in-between at Watkins Glen. It was much faster than the MX-5, but easier to slide around than the M8. I really had to be smooth on the throttle coming out of a turn or I would get over steer.

The bottom line is that I feel like this rig is a complete success. I just got my Class C license in Road Racing and will be competing in both the BMW 12.0 Series ( min Class D) and Porsche Cup series ( min Class C). I spent a lot of time learning the fundamentals doing hot laps and with the recent addition of AI to iRacing, I've been practicing driving in a pack. Finally I decided I was ready to race again.

As a bit of history, my results in the Ferrari 488 GT3 fixed cup last season were abysmal. I would qualify near the back of the pack and then typically mess up, spin off the track, and end up being lapped by the leader by the end of the race. Pretty embarrassing!!!! So I threw in the towel after a few races and decided to just focus on my fundamentals. Granted I was spending a lot more time tweaking my rig than actually using it.

Yesterday I qualified P5 in a race and then slowly reeled in cars until I was chasing the leader for the last 3 laps for a 2nd place finish! Now that was an exciting race! In another race this morning I finished in the bottom half of the pack, but I battled for position and managed to pass a few people. So I still have a long way to go, but now I'm in the fray and really starting to have fun with racing real people and not just building my rig.
 
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So how about a comparison between your rig in it's current state, and the real deal?

The real deal?
Everything I was describing above was in iRacing, but it feels pretty damn real to me.

I owned an MX-5 for a while in the early 90's, but I don't think I could compare track racing to anything I have experience with.
 
Top marks for the color coordination with the shoes/gloves also rather festive too. :D

I do keep having a wee peek in here (whilst not posting) enjoying the updates and journey. You can always tell the passion some people have and to be fair I think a lot of people like updating or upgrading and having that "next thing" to always pursue in it being part of what this hobby is about. Yes of course, we also need to take stock and start enjoying the efforts being done and just settle for a while.

Now, I did struggle to get over my dismay for the funds needed towards the awesome "H Shifter" or amazing "wheel rims" and other toys this build has to then compare what's happening with the tactile, mmmmmmm. ;)

Maybe 2020?
Let me help you spend
 
I considered trying a BK LFE or 2 or 3 and an NX4-3000, but I feel like I have plenty of tactile now configured at frequencies that don't overlap and that complement how the transducers are mounted to my rig. I'm very well aware of the limitations of the Aura's I'm using but they are doing a great job.

If anything I suspect that over time I'll only make them work better.

I guess the best way to leave things is that I know better than to say never, but right now I have no itch to scratch. I'm very content with my rig right now.
 

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