rF2 Mazda MX-5 (Miata) @ Mid Ohio - Thu 19 Jan 2023

[Daniel R.]

Well I did a Frank Spencer. I drilled all the necessary holes in the right places and fitted the wheel base... Unfortunately, it didn't occur to me that the vibrations would be sufficient to damage the load cell on my brake pedal . So it doesn't look like I'm going to be racing anytime soon....

Hey Patrick,
So a loadcell can't get broken by Vibrations, especially not from Drilling Vibrations.
They are built tough and only break when you damage the strain gage on the loadcell or you have plastic deformation of the loadcell itself.

What wheel and pedals are you using right now?
Are the electronics of pedal and wheel somehow close together?
Are the cables itself close together?
Maybe something is not grounded?

Tbh it's probably rather a EMI or a cable/electronics problem.

Can you post pictures of the setup?

Cheers Dan

 

[Denis Betty]

Sign me up please @Denis Betty

You got it Jack.

 

[Interslice]

The problem was that I didn't unplug the pedals or remove them from my rig whilst I drilled 4 holes. I obviously covered them, but I didn't think the vibration through the frame would be enough to damage the pedals...
I've done several resets/calibration, changed the usb port (hub) for the pedals and rolled back the firmware which did make a big difference. After a bit of testing (20 min...) the flickering gets noticeably worse.

If you pull the pedal back with your hand does that go away?

Maybe new rubbers would help?

Mine would have that very slight flicker if i am accidentally applying a tiny bit of pressure. I rest my foot on the clutch and will sometimes be hitting of the brake


Have it manually calibrated now with some dead zone on what was about 3 or 4 % load.

 

[Daniel R.]

Just asking...

Isn't it a not uncommon circumstance that the loadcells of the fanatec pedals die one day?

 

[Interslice]

Just asking...

Isn't it a not uncommon circumstance that the loadcells of the fanatec pedals die one day?

Hopefully not!

It is alot more flickery and i run mine a 10% with the softest rubbers so maybe Pat's is goosed

 

[Denis Betty]

I have completely different pedals, but I always run a big dead spot in game. The reason for this is that in my RL car, the pedal travels.... maybe 10% travel before the pads touch the discs. Shortly after that I begin to feel resistance as the hydraulic pressure begins to ramp up.
To get a similar feeling in my rig, I set this point ~ where my brake pedal begins to give resistance from the rubbers. Works for me.

 

[pattikins]

Hey Patrick,
So a loadcell can't get broken by Vibrations, especially not from Drilling Vibrations.
They are built tough and only break when you damage the strain gage on the loadcell or you have plastic deformation of the loadcell itself.

What wheel and pedals are you using right now?
Are the electronics of pedal and wheel somehow close together?
Are the cables itself close together?
Maybe something is not grounded?

Tbh it's probably rather a EMI or a cable/electronics problem.

Can you post pictures of the setup?

Cheers Dan

I bought the pedals over 3 years ago & they've been rock solid up until installing the wheel, but I think you're right. When I separated the usb connections for the wheel & pedals, it made the brake pedal values more stable, with a small amount of jittering.

@Yves Larose , thanks for suggesting to use the clutch to set the minimum pedal travel. It seems, so far (fingers crossed...), to have done the trick .

I've always preferred to use the automatic calibration & set the max @ a given value (i.e., 86%), + in game max brake values. Whenever I tried to set it manually in the past it seems to take less effort in game to hit the max than when I'm setting the max in the Fanatec software - not good for heavy braking. Do I need to use the clutch + brake pedal to set the max value?

Thanks everyone for their help. Now I've just got figure out why I'm not getting any force feedback in rfactor2 (every other game works fine) and stop my rig crossbar from rotating under the weight of the new wheel - even though the base is virtually dead center (as much as possible given the available places to drill on the base plate).

 

[Yves Larose]

Anyone going on the server today for some practice ?

 

[Yves Larose]

@Denis Betty and @Jack Smith the skin you have for the Spec Miata also work for the Level 2 cars you just need to create a skin directory and put the files in it and voila

 

[Yves Larose]

@Denis Betty i think your skin won't display correctly by using the way i mentionned above, so here's the original post for it.

Download link

I recommand taking the number 3 car to create the skin directory.

To use liveries in game:
Choose a car in game(remember the number on the car). Click tuning/customize, and "create dir".
Find the created folder in: Steam\steamapps\common\rFactor 2\UserData\player\Settings\MX-5_SpecMiata\(number on car) Unpack zip-file. Paste all the files there, and choose it on tuning/customize in game. Voila!

 

[Yves Larose]

I also have this livery if anyone wants to use it, just let me know and i'll send you a download link

Forget that gents its Paul livery and he is joining us

 

[slideways]

I think it's time for me to come out of my burrow and do some more racing. Perfect timing Yves. Sign me up please.

 

[Yves Larose]

I think it's time for me to come out of my burrow and do some more racing. Perfect timing Yves. Sign me up please.

Nice to see you Paul , the livery is yours since i made it for you

Download link

To use liveries in game:
Choose a car in game(remember the number on the car). Click tuning/customize, and "create dir".
Find the created folder in: Steam\steamapps\common\rFactor 2\UserData\player\Settings\MX-5_SpecMiata\(number on car) Unpack zip-file. Paste all the files there, and choose it on tuning/customize in game. Voila!

 

[Denis Betty]

I think it's time for me to come out of my burrow and do some more racing. Perfect timing Yves. Sign me up please.

You little beauty.

 

[Jan Larsen]

When I separated the usb connections for the wheel & pedals, it made the brake pedal values more stable, with a small amount of jittering.

Tried grounding the brake to the rig?

 

[Michael Rudolf]

When I separated the usb connections for the wheel & pedals, it made the brake pedal values more stable, with a small amount of jittering.

Like Jan said grounding can help, or try a USB isolator. I had huge issues with my Fanatec DD base and a custom wheel with USB connection. Base made the buttons go wild as soon is it was touching the rig. In the end I had to use a some cheap USB isolator to connect the wheel, been working fine ever since.

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

At times... I am very happy that I am using a good old Logitech
It usually goes something like this:
Sticky pedals? Open up, clean potentiometer.
Steering wheel getting misaligned - you've used it up. Get a new one.

 

[pattikins]

The brake problem returned yesterday. As most of you suggested, the problem is probably a usb/emi issue - as soon as I turned off the wheel the flickering stopped. So far today, without making any changes to my setup, the problem hasn't reappeared.

 

[pattikins]

@Michael Rudolf
do you mean something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GeeekPi-Isolator-Digital-Isolation-Protection/dp/B07QPN951P/ref=sr_1_3?adgrpid=61623158108&gclid=CjwKCAiAzp6eBhByEiwA_gGq5Ax5rvkUm4zxsiBUva1LnPtRo-TfIxsr2l6voVv2P98XM2chHYN1phoCJkYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=259032409194&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046611&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9246535727006966386&hvtargid=kwd-323993509674&hydadcr=28147_1724764&keywords=usb+isolator&qid=1674060321&sr=8-3

 

[pattikins]

Tried grounding the brake to the rig?

I'll give it a go.