Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

[MateLeLe]

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.

PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4

 

[Paul Harwood]

If those sensors have ground references, then the principle holds.

The T-LCM pedals have been opened once, but no changes were made to any electrical connections.
If the steps I tried in my most recent reply do not solve the problem, I will have to open the pedals again and I will then report on any electrical-electronic issues I may see and I will report.

Cheers and thanks for the info!

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

The famous 'mode' button that switches the pedals from normal to inverted has special instructions on how to properly switch the modes When using firmware 34 !!!

T300 SERVO BASE - Thrustmaster - Technical support website

support.thrustmaster.com

I have not been switching modes properly! These instructions have changed! Check it out:

From downloaded T-300 manual:
"The T300 RS is also compatible with Thrustmaster pedal sets featuring 3 pedals (sold separately); these allow you to electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. To do so, simply press the MODE button (6) for 2 seconds. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not."

From the tech support current firmware version 34 - T300_RS_GT_manual.pdf

"MODE BUTTON AND INDICATOR LIGHT (6)
MODE button for the pedal set. You can electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. Procedure: Simultaneously press and hold down the MODE + L3 + R3 buttons (located on the T300 racing wheel’s base) for five seconds, and then release them. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not, and the indicator light (6) flashes differently according to the mode you have selected: GAS AND CLUTCH PEDALS Color of the MODE indicator light (6) Switching to INVERTED mode Flashes five times after the procedure, then continuously flashes once every eight seconds. Switching to NORMAL mode Flashes once after the procedure, then does not flash continuously."

This is an important change in proper procedure.

To address any EMI issues I again re-routed the AC cable, clear of any of the other wheel cables.

To address the pedal to wheel - 'wheelbase end connector' potential issue, I re-routed that cable so it goes straight out of the wheelbase with no bending of the wire near that connector.

I have a race tonight; let's see how all this works out.

PH

Test#1 = No issues!

Will keep testing ...

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test #2 = OK. racing Assetto Corsa on and offline for several hours.

Recap: The 'stuck throttle' and 'half inverted pedals' issues did occur after the famous mode buttons were unintentionally pressed. The other incidents that also happened around the same time were that some of the wires had moved from their original placement, again unintentionally. They had ended up running next to each other. These incidents happened twice, around the same time, 2 weeks apart.

So either or both the 'mode button incorrect use' or 'EMI issues' could have been the actual glitch. Same with the pedals to wheelbase network cable connector on the wheelbase side. More precisely, the wire being bent too much right at that connector.

If you have any stuck throttle or half inverted pedals issues, my suggestion would be to check all three of these possible causes.

My guess is that 'incorrect use of the mode button' is the cause because that button controls the inversion of the throttle and clutch pedals and if the pedals did not properly flash the mode indicator to fully program into memory the normal mode ... I could see this causing the half inverted pedal symptom.

If the issue returns, I will then re-open the pedal base to look for any possible causes there.

Cheers.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test #2 = OK. racing Assetto Corsa on and offline for several hours.

Recap: The 'stuck throttle' and 'half inverted pedals' issues did occur after the famous mode buttons were unintentionally pressed. The other incidents that also happened around the same time were that some of the wires had moved from their original placement, again unintentionally. They had ended up running next to each other. These incidents happened twice, around the same time, 2 weeks apart.

So either or both the 'mode button incorrect use' or 'EMI issues' could have been the actual glitch. Same with the pedals to wheelbase network cable connector on the wheelbase side. More precisely, the wire being bent too much right at that connector.

If you have any stuck throttle or half inverted pedals issues, my suggestion would be to check all three of these possible causes.

My guess is that 'incorrect use of the mode button' is the cause because that button controls the inversion of the throttle and clutch pedals and if the pedals did not properly flash the mode indicator to fully program into memory the normal mode ... I could see this causing the half inverted pedal symptom.

If the issue returns, I will then re-open the pedal base to look for any possible causes there.

Cheers.

PH

... Issue came back. After several days of working fine, throttle got stuck while practicing GPL offline. A collision happened and the throttle got stuck again.

I then tried Assetto Corsa and I got a couple of unusual pedal-related and wheel-related issues while trying various CSP FFB tweaks as well as AC controls/Axis and /FFB settings.

Lo and behold, I look down near the pedals and again ... wires had moved. The pedal to wheelbase cable had moved due to vibration and again was running right along the power cable.

I have taped the cable so that it stays clear of the power cable.

In AC at one point, trying different options in settings/Force Feedback, such as 'FFB post processing' and 'miscellaneous' and 'experimental' settings, AC lost the wheel and pedal Axis ... I rebooted and AC was still not seeing any of the axis. I had to re assign them in AC.

More testing to come.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

... Issue came back. After several days of working fine, throttle got stuck while practicing GPL offline. A hard collision happened and the throttle got stuck again.

I then tried Assetto Corsa and I got a couple of unusual pedal-related and wheel-related issues while trying various CSP FFB tweaks as well as AC controls/Axis and /FFB settings.

Lo and behold, I look down near the pedals and again ... wires had moved. The pedal to wheelbase cable had moved due to vibration and again was running right along the power cable.

I have taped the cable so that it stays clear of the power cable.

In AC at one point, trying different options in settings/Force Feedback, such as 'FFB post processing' and 'miscellaneous' and 'experimental' settings, AC lost contact with all the wheel and pedal Axis ... I rebooted and AC was still not seeing any of the axis. I had to re assign them in AC.

More testing to come.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

It just occured to me that my swapping rims on the T 300 wheelbase may have something to do with this latest occurence of the throttle-stuck issue. In the wheel's control panel properties, the T-28 and the Ferrari wheel add-on are 2 different ... versions of the controller! The control panel shows the different wheel rims.

Could the swapping rims require re-setting of the mode button? If the control panel properties shows 2 different wheels, and also differenciates between normal and advanced settings (button assign options) ... does the internal memory require the mode button be reset at every rim swap ? ...? ...?

I will keep an eye on this.

For now I have re-pressed the mode button and the LED did flash and I have re-routed the wires hopefully for the last time; lets see how everything goes. I'm swapping rims almost daily this week, so lets see if some sort of pattern emerges so as to help pinpoint the cause or causes.

PH

 

[3x0t1C]

The famous 'mode' button that switches the pedals from normal to inverted has special instructions on how to properly switch the modes When using firmware 34 !!!

T300 SERVO BASE - Thrustmaster - Technical support website

support.thrustmaster.com

I have not been switching modes properly! These instructions have changed! Check it out:

From downloaded T-300 manual:
"The T300 RS is also compatible with Thrustmaster pedal sets featuring 3 pedals (sold separately); these allow you to electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. To do so, simply press the MODE button (6) for 2 seconds. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not."

From the tech support current firmware version 34 - T300_RS_GT_manual.pdf

"MODE BUTTON AND INDICATOR LIGHT (6)
MODE button for the pedal set. You can electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. Procedure: Simultaneously press and hold down the MODE + L3 + R3 buttons (located on the T300 racing wheel’s base) for five seconds, and then release them. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not, and the indicator light (6) flashes differently according to the mode you have selected: GAS AND CLUTCH PEDALS Color of the MODE indicator light (6) Switching to INVERTED mode Flashes five times after the procedure, then continuously flashes once every eight seconds. Switching to NORMAL mode Flashes once after the procedure, then does not flash continuously."

This is an important change in proper procedure.

To address any EMI issues I again re-routed the AC cable, clear of any of the other wheel cables.

To address the pedal to wheel - 'wheelbase end connector' potential issue, I re-routed that cable so it goes straight out of the wheelbase with no bending of the wire near that connector.

I have a race tonight; let's see how all this works out.

PH

Hi mate, I've been following your reports since I had the same damn issue, great spot on for the EMI I had my T-LCM and TX-SW USB plugged into my PC and literally next to each other for sure that might be the cause, I will try to use the furthest USB slots away from each other and test that, as I face this damn fkin issue.

Please give more reports, if you fixed your problem, thanks!

 

[Paul Harwood]

The famous 'mode' button that switches the pedals from normal to inverted has special instructions on how to properly switch the modes When using firmware 34 !!!

T300 SERVO BASE - Thrustmaster - Technical support website

support.thrustmaster.com

I have not been switching modes properly! These instructions have changed! Check it out:

From downloaded T-300 manual:
"The T300 RS is also compatible with Thrustmaster pedal sets featuring 3 pedals (sold separately); these allow you to electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. To do so, simply press the MODE button (6) for 2 seconds. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not."

From the tech support current firmware version 34 - T300_RS_GT_manual.pdf

"MODE BUTTON AND INDICATOR LIGHT (6)
MODE button for the pedal set. You can electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. Procedure: Simultaneously press and hold down the MODE + L3 + R3 buttons (located on the T300 racing wheel’s base) for five seconds, and then release them. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not, and the indicator light (6) flashes differently according to the mode you have selected: GAS AND CLUTCH PEDALS Color of the MODE indicator light (6) Switching to INVERTED mode Flashes five times after the procedure, then continuously flashes once every eight seconds. Switching to NORMAL mode Flashes once after the procedure, then does not flash continuously."

This is an important change in proper procedure.

To address any EMI issues I again re-routed the AC cable, clear of any of the other wheel cables.

To address the pedal to wheel - 'wheelbase end connector' potential issue, I re-routed that cable so it goes straight out of the wheelbase with no bending of the wire near that connector.

I have a race tonight; let's see how all this works out.

PH

Another 2 weeks with all ok, and the issue is back!

I am getting the pedal to get stuck and then unstuck and watching it in the Assetto Corsa settings/Axis tab. From this testing, it now looks like some sort of mechanical pedal travel issue! It seems like something is interfering with the pedal sensors in an intermittent way.

I'll have to open the pedals completely to check for any obstructions, lose wiring or connections that could cause the pedal to stay stuck. It doesn't always get stuck at 100% but mostly that's how it gets stuck.

Will report.

I could not race this past week because I pinched a nerve in my right hand. A week ago, when I was racing a lot, all was OK and had been since my last post. How strange that the issue would come back after a week of not being used!

But it all seems to be pointing to some mechanical or physical issue with the throttle pedal assembly itself.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Another 2 weeks with all ok, and the issue is back!

I am getting the pedal to get stuck and then unstuck and watching it in the Assetto Corsa settings/Axis tab. From this testing, it now looks like some sort of mechanical pedal travel issue! It seems like something is interfering with the pedal sensors in an intermittent way.

I'll have to open the pedals completely to check for any obstructions, lose wiring or connections that could cause the pedal to stay stuck. It doesn't always get stuck at 100% but mostly that's how it gets stuck.

Will report.

I could not race this past week because I pinched a nerve in my right hand. A week ago, when I was racing a lot, all was OK and had been since my last post. How strange that the issue would come back after a week of not being used!

But it all seems to be pointing to some mechanical or physical issue with the throttle pedal assembly itself.

PH

The famous mode button actually has 3 different sets of operations that require 3 different sets of button-press sequences. Just wanted to point this out! Most confusing.

Then there's the USB or SJ-12 or whatever connector and which connection choice is best for PC ...

But wait! ... After all this time I was actually not using the latest wheel firmware update = V.34 !!! For SJ 12 connected wheels on PC games, this V.34 update is key!

I just got the stand-alone wheel firmware updater to update to v. 34 OK.

I was not getting this firmware to update via the control panel 'check for update' button! It would always report that firmware (or simply its control panel version?) was up to date but I was noticing that control panel listed firmware as being v. 33.

Lets see how V. 34 behaves.

Is this technically complicated or what? Should it be?

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Another 2 weeks with all ok, and the issue is back!

I am getting the pedal to get stuck and then unstuck and watching it in the Assetto Corsa settings/Axis tab. From this testing, it now looks like some sort of mechanical pedal travel issue! It seems like something is interfering with the pedal sensors in an intermittent way.

I'll have to open the pedals completely to check for any obstructions, lose wiring or connections that could cause the pedal to stay stuck. It doesn't always get stuck at 100% but mostly that's how it gets stuck.

Will report.

I could not race this past week because I pinched a nerve in my right hand. A week ago, when I was racing a lot, all was OK and had been since my last post. How strange that the issue would come back after a week of not being used!

But it all seems to be pointing to some mechanical or physical issue with the throttle pedal assembly itself.

PH

The Mode LED is now shinning green! That is the correct color for PC mode according to one manual section (But this appears to be contradicted by another section somewhere like in the T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf = all pictures of the mode LED are red or orange). I had been using the wheel with that LED shinning orange since I got it!

But alas, Firmware update and fun and games with resetting the mode button still have not fixed this current stuck-throttle issue. Its still getting stuck either full 100% or at around 75%. The only good news is that I seem to be able to unstick it with a few kicks.

Not out of the woods yet. There's only one option left = open the pedals again

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

The Mode LED is now shinning green! That is the correct color for PC mode according to one manual section (But this appears to be contradicted by another section somewhere like in the T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf = all pictures of the mode LED are red or orange). I had been using the wheel with that LED shinning orange since I got it!

But alas, Firmware update and fun and games with resetting the mode button still have not fixed this current stuck-throttle issue. Its still getting stuck either full 100% or at around 75%. The only good news is that I seem to be able to unstick it with a few kicks.

Not out of the woods yet. There's only one option left = open the pedals again

PH

I just ran a few tests for grounding issues and possibly static build-up in the pedals and the stuck throttle sensor issue just did a weird thing.

If I get the pedal sensor to stick, touching the pedal face with a piece of metal brings the sensor level back to zero instantly! ... I used a USB cable not connected to anything and just touched the pedal face lightly and the sensor level went back to zero instantly! Same thing with a clothe hanger. And, I have to touch the throttle pedal face. Touching the other pedal faces does not always bring the sensor reading down.

Also and probably most importantly, I was testing with my bare feet! I usually drive with my Simpson karting boots which have a rubber sole. With the boots on ... no issues, currently. With bare feet, after a few dozen throttle presses, there does appear to be some sort of static charge build-up! Bare feet and socks drivers beware.

I was testing with bare feet the last few days because I was coming back from a pinched right thumb nerve, and was just wanting to run practice laps to see how the thumb was doing.

More testing. Will report.

Thoughts anyone?

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

I just ran a few tests for grounding issues and possibly static build-up in the pedals and the stuck throttle sensor issue just did a weird thing.

If I get the pedal sensor to stick, touching the pedal face with a piece of metal brings the sensor level back to zero instantly! ... I used a USB cable not connected to anything and just touched the pedal face lightly and the sensor level went back to zero instantly! Same thing with a clothe hanger. And, I have to touch the throttle pedal face. Touching the other pedal faces does not always bring the sensor reading down.

Also and probably most importantly, I was testing with my bare feet! I usually drive with my Simpson karting boots which have a rubber sole. With the boots on ... no issues, currently. With bare feet, after a few dozen throttle presses, there does appear to be some sort of static charge build-up! Bare feet and socks drivers beware.

I was testing with bare feet the last few days because I was coming back from a pinched right thumb nerve, and was just wanting to run practice laps to see how the thumb was doing.

More testing. Will report.

Thoughts anyone?

PH

Well ... with karting boots on I had a perfect practice in Assetto Corsa but then I switched rims and tried some GPL. With the firmware update and the now green Mode LED, as I expected, GPL needed the controller axes to be re-assigned but I couldn't even assign the steering axis so I rebooted my system.

On reboot I was able to assign the axes but they were not the usual axes. This was because the USB controller order had shifted on the reboot. Once I got the wheel back to #1 controller I was able to assign axes and calibrate OK.

But then after a few laps ... stuck throttle again. This time I touched the pedal face with a metal rod and the throttle sensor went right back to zero. This is a great time saver as there is no need to exit the game and re-connect the USB. The throttle then behaved OK for the rest of the short practice.

This all points to some grounding issue and solutions.

In the possible issues, 1st: is the 'shield' wires contact. These are 2 wires that come up from the circuit board and make contact with the pedal, Have these moved or has some dirt or object gotten in the way or causing short circuits?

2nd: In certain cockpit/rig environments, do the pedals in fact need extra grounding or static charge compensation?

This scenario I find odd because consumer electronic products usually have grounding issues covered in their design. If additional grounding is required, consumer products would at least supply a connection point and most probably also a specially made ground wire. As well, there would be instructions in a user manual on such installation issues.

I recall no such grounding instructions in any T-LCM or T 300 users manuals or updates.

More testing. Will report.

PH

 

[blekenbleu]

Thoughts anyone

Bad ground; intermittent perhaps because aluminum conducts,
but aluminum oxide insulates, and aluminum oxidizes rapidly.
Even good solder joints can crack and corrode,
and crimp connections do not always remain gas-tight.

 

[Paul Harwood]

Well ... with karting boots on I had a perfect practice in Assetto Corsa but then I switched rims and tried some GPL. With the firmware update and the now green Mode LED, as I expected, GPL needed the controller axes to be re-assigned but I couldn't even assign the steering axis so I rebooted my system.

On reboot I was able to assign the axes but they were not the usual axes. This was because the USB controller order had shifted on the reboot. Once I got the wheel back to #1 controller I was able to assign axes and calibrate OK.

But then after a few laps ... stuck throttle again. This time I touched the pedal face with a metal rod and the throttle sensor went right back to zero. This is a great time saver as there is no need to exit the game and re-connect the USB. The throttle then behaved OK for the rest of the short practice.

This all points to some grounding issue and solutions.

In the possible issues, 1st: is the 'shield' wires contact. These are 2 wires that come up from the circuit board and make contact with the pedal, Have these moved or has some dirt or object gotten in the way or causing short circuits?

2nd: In certain cockpit/rig environments, do the pedals in fact need extra grounding or static charge compensation?

This scenario I find odd because consumer electronic products usually have grounding issues covered in their design. If additional grounding is required, consumer products would at least supply a connection point and most probably also a specially made ground wire. As well, there would be instructions in a user manual on such installation issues.

I recall no such grounding instructions in any T-LCM or T 300 users manuals or updates.

More testing. Will report.

PH

I connected the T300 power cable to the same power bar as the computer. Now the wheel and system share the same ground. Previously I had the wheelbase power cable going to another power bar. Both power bars were coming from the same circuit but using 2 different extension cords from 2 different wall sockets. (up and lower sockets of the same wall outlet) This change in cable routing also helps in keeping the USB, power and pedal-to-wheelbase cables well clear of each other.

But what I am trying out is hopefully avoiding any static buildup caused by the pedals and wheelbase not sharing the same ground connections.

Let's see if this helps.

Spring cleaning will require disconnection and moving of the pedals and this cleaning is scheduled for very soon. If the stuck throttle issue persists and pedals need to be opened, the cleanup will be a perfect opportunity.

This week is supposed to be a busy online racing schedule with 4 events. The last thing I need is a sticking throttle problem.

Stay tuned!

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

I connected the T300 power cable to the same power bar as the computer. Now the wheel and system share the same ground. Previously I had the wheelbase power cable going to another power bar. Both power bars were coming from the same circuit but using 2 different extension cords from 2 different wall sockets. (up and lower sockets of the same wall outlet) This change in cable routing also helps in keeping the USB, power and pedal-to-wheelbase cables well clear of each other.

But what I am trying out is hopefully avoiding any static buildup caused by the pedals and wheelbase not sharing the same ground connections.

Let's see if this helps.

Spring cleaning will require disconnection and moving of the pedals and this cleaning is scheduled for very soon. If the stuck throttle issue persists and pedals need to be opened, the cleanup will be a perfect opportunity.

This week is supposed to be a busy online racing schedule with 4 events. The last thing I need is a sticking throttle problem.

Stay tuned!

PH

GPL practice for tonight and throttle sensor did get stuck a few times and luckily not at 100% as in 3rd gear the throttle was on by itself but not racing up to the red line and beyond, which makes for some improved ability to limit any off-course and/or unintended trajectories. But this is far from ideal for any good racing. So its not acceptable.

I did get to try the metal clothe hanger rod and it brought the throttle down but on 2nd incident, I used a USB cable's metal end which also brought the throttle back down and, it is not connected to anything nor grounded by me holding it. So this is perhaps a temporary solution for tonight and perhaps ultimately is to simply connect a wire to the throttle pedal preemptively.

I will test this, but its not my preferred solution. 1st I need to see what is going on with the 'shield' wires (the wires come off a contact labelled 'shield' on the circuit board.) that are supposed to connect to the pedal's underside and do any grounding I presume. And 2nd, before doing any external grounding, I will ask TM support about all this.

I'll try attaching a wire for tonight's race as a temporary fix.

Will report.

Lurking in the background is another factor. If I recall, the throttle sensor issue began shortly after I mounted the pedal board onto a wooden base using 4 M6 screws. One of the holes for these screws is close to the front of the throttle pedal assembly. So perhaps some arcking is happening between the pedal assembly and this screw, which makes contact with the wall-to-wall carpeting on its underside?

That will be looked at if and when the pedals get opened again.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test of an unconnected, attached wire made the spikes worse!

2 choices left: 1- try a direct ground connection from pedal to computer chassis. 2- Open the pedals if that fails ... or not! Why would the pedals intermittently need grounding? And why does the issue stop for weeks at a time without any additional grounding? Only opening the pedals could help answer that.

2 things I'll be looking at: 1- Those 'shield' wires. 2- The M6 cockpit mounting screw located right near the front of the throttle pedal.

Stay tuned.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test of an unconnected, attached wire made the spikes worse!

2 choices left: 1- try a direct connection from pedal to computer chassis. 2- Open the pedals if that fails ... or not! Why would the pedals intermittently need grounding? And why does the issue stop for weeks at a time without any additional grounding? Only opening the pedals could help answer that.

2 things I'll be looking at: 1- Those 'shield' wires. 2- The M6 cockpit mounting screw located right near the front of the throttle pedal.

Stay tuned.

PH

GPL LoPeN night: I moved the pedal to wheelbase cable 2 inches as it had found a way to move closer to a power bar again. No issues ...Made it through 2 races with no throttle issues!
PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

GPL LoPeN night: I moved the pedal to wheelbase cable 2 inches as it had found a way to move closer to a power bar again. No issues ...Made it through 2 races with no throttle issues!
PH

Test 2: Short practice for GPL in the Can Am 66 mod that was undrivable just a day ago and ... no issues??

I got a ground wire ready if the issue returns. But tonight's lesson: Sometimes being really, really, lazy... but observant can save you a lot of work. I looked down and saw the damn RJ 12 cable had wiggled loose of the duct tape from vibration of the pedals and landed right next to power cables ... again!

Actually if this works and continues to work, this has been an EMI issue mostly with interference from power cords and power bars with several transformers plugged in, too near to the RJ 12 cable.

Let's see.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test 2: Short practice for GPL in the Can Am 66 mod that was undrivable just a day ago and ... no issues??

I got a ground wire ready if the issue returns. But tonight's lesson: Sometimes being really, really, lazy... but observant can save you a lot of work. I looked down and saw the damn cable had wiggled loose of the duct tape from vibration of the pedals and landed right next to power cables ... again!

Actually if this works and continues to work, this has been an EMI issue mostly with interference from power cords and power bars with several transformers plugged in, near the RJ 12 cable.

Let's see.

PH

Test 3 on and offline in AC = No issues. Using the T 28 rim and H pattern shifting with the TH8 A, same as for the GPL tests.

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test of an unconnected, attached wire made the spikes worse!

2 choices left: 1- try a direct ground connection from pedal to computer chassis. 2- Open the pedals if that fails ... or not! Why would the pedals intermittently need grounding? And why does the issue stop for weeks at a time without any additional grounding? Only opening the pedals could help answer that.

2 things I'll be looking at: 1- Those 'shield' wires. 2- The M6 cockpit mounting screw located right near the front of the throttle pedal.

Stay tuned.

PH