Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

[MateLeLe]

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.

PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4

 

[birddogg911]

Made an account to reply to this, i was having different issues but they were strange enough to maybe be relevant. Go to the windows game controller section, and click on the reset to defaults area and see if it helps. I was having major issues with the throttle until i did that. Was perfect after i did that.

 

[kthhrv]

My T-LCM (usb) throttle pedal has been getting stuck in software at 80+%, unplugging and re plugging would temporarily fix it.

Tried a different cable, still happened
Different usb port on different bus, same
remove and re-added the device, same

So I took the unit apart, the rubber stopper that the throttle pedal hits when fully depressed was detached and there was a crack in the plastic in the same area, heavy right foot apparently
Looks like the metal of the pedal has been making contact with the circuit board that is mounted underneath it, poor/weak design in my opinion.

I've tapped the rubber stopper back in place and put insulating tape over where the pedal could make contact with the circuit board and will test if that helps.

grrrrrrrrrr

 

[kthhrv]

My T-LCM (usb) throttle pedal has been getting stuck in software at 80+%, unplugging and re plugging would temporarily fix it.

Tried a different cable, still happened
Different usb port on different bus, same
remove and re-added the device, same

So I took the unit apart, the rubber stopper that the throttle pedal hits when fully depressed was detached and there was a crack in the plastic in the same area, heavy right foot apparently
Looks like the metal of the pedal has been making contact with the circuit board that is mounted underneath it, poor/weak design in my opinion.

I've tapped the rubber stopper back in place and put insulating tape over where the pedal could make contact with the circuit board and will test if that helps.

grrrrrrrrrr

Looking good so far

 

[kthhrv]

Looking good so far

Completed several races now without throttle sticking, I should have noticed when the sound of the pedal hitting the bump stop changed, that will have been when the rubber stopper became detached.

 

[maxmost]

i have the same frustrating problem

 

[StatixSc]

happening to me as well. i have to come completely out of acc for it to 'work' again after pulling the cable.

 

[maxmost]

I have the same FRUSTRATING problem

 

[DaveDaBass]

A friend of mine had the same issue last weekend while 24h race.
It turned out that there where some EMI things going on with all the stuff he has on his rig.
He rerouted the cable and plugged it directly into the PC. Seems to be solved so far.

 

[Paul Harwood]

I am having the stuck throttle issue and have already gone through a few different issues since the issue started happening. I am in a complete TM ... eco-system ...: T-300 with pedals connected to the base and TH8A in USB.

The throttle spring broke and I replaced that. Did the USB recalibration. All seemed ok. Then, instead of throttle stuck wide open, a few times the pedals are reversed and the clutch was now the throttle. So I re-cycled the mode button from green to red and that seemed to fix the issue but it came back.

Now I can either kick on the throttle pedal till it un-sticks (not sure if just waiting works) But it goes back to stuck after a few seconds on track. So I too have to boot clean out of AC and re-connect the USB. (In GPL I can re-connect the USB while in the menu but not in AC.) There are even times when the gas pedal is dead but usually its the stuck issue.

I do not look forward to having to disassemble the pedals again, but that stopper issue and the circuit board location mentioned above do sound like worth checking out.

I guess I will trick out the pedal board for easy servicing. I will use only 4 screws on the cover!

Now that I've opened them up, I am really surprised at the flimsiness of the throttle and clutch springs and the stone-age simplicity of the spring action and mounting on these T-LCM. These should be more robust especially in comparison and in use with the beefy and well designed load cell brake right between the two. If the brakes are made to be used in heavy duty loads and use, the gas and brake pedals will get the same types and range of forces applied to them. So this does seem to be a good issue for either TM or third party aftermarket heavier duty replacement springs or even coil over dampers.

But like all the sequential shifter springs I went through, I can tell that if I already broke a throttle spring in just over a year of use, I will break many more gas and clutch springs for sure.

I'll ask TM about all this. My 1st issue was the USB device order. TM support was not of great help with that. I eventually found a combination of USB ports that were OK on all reboots. Lets see what support they can offer here.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Completed several races now without throttle sticking, I should have noticed when the sound of the pedal hitting the bump stop changed, that will have been when the rubber stopper became detached.

I am having the stuck throttle issue and have already gone through a few different issues since the issue started happening. I am in a complete TM ... eco-system ...: T-300 with pedals connected to the base and TH8A in USB.

The throttle spring broke and I replaced that. Did the USB recalibration. All seemed ok. Then, instead of throttle stuck wide open, a few times the pedals are reversed and the clutch was now the throttle. So I re-cycled the mode button from green to red and that seemed to fix the issue but it came back.

Now I can either kick on the throttle pedal till it un-sticks (not sure if just waiting works) But it goes back to stuck after a few seconds on track. So I too have to boot clean out of AC and re-connect the USB. (In GPL I can re-connect the USB while in the menu but not in AC.) There are even times when the gas pedal is dead but usually its the stuck issue.

I do not look forward to having to disassemble the pedals again, but that stopper issue and the circuit board location mentioned above do sound like worth checking out.

I guess I will trick out the pedal board for easy servicing. I will use only 4 screws on the cover!

Now that I've opened them up, I am really surprised at the flimsiness of the throttle and clutch springs and the stone-age simplicity of the spring action and mounting on these T-LCM. These should be more robust especially in comparison and in use with the beefy and well designed load cell brake right between the two. If the brakes are made to be used in heavy duty loads and use, the gas and brake pedals will get the same types and range of forces applied to them. So this does seem to be a good issue for either TM or third party aftermarket heavier duty replacement springs or even coil over dampers.

But like all the sequential shifter springs I went through, I can tell that if I already broke a throttle spring in just over a year of use, I will break many more gas and clutch springs for sure.

I'll ask TM about all this. My 1st issue was the USB device order. TM support was not of great help with that. I eventually found a combination of USB ports that were OK on all reboots. Lets see what support they can offer here.

PH

I re-routed my power and pedal-to-base cables so as to put a bit more space between them. I had them routed next to each other for several feet. EMI can happen.

I will test and report.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

I re-routed my power and pedal-to-base cables so as to put a bit more space between them. I had them routed next to each other for several feet. EMI can happen.

I will test and report.

PH

1st test with AC online @ Imola went OK!!! Can it be EMI?

Will do test #2 in a bit and report ...

 

[Paul Harwood]

1st test with AC online @ Imola went OK!!! Can it be EMI?

Will do test #2 in a bit and report ...

2nd test OK! I also gave the 'pedal to wheelbase' cable more slack to lessen any stress on the wheelbase-side connector. Sometimes cables can shift positions over time and use and get a bit bent tight at the connector. So one or both of these simple fixes is working ATM ...

Let's see if fix is durable, Will report.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

2nd test OK! I also gave the 'pedal to wheelbase' cable more slack to lessen any stress on the wheelbase-side connector. Sometimes cables can shift positions over time and use and get a bit bent tight at the connector. So one or both of these simple fixes is working ATM ...

Let's see if fix is durable, Will report.

PH

Test # 3 ... A-OK ! No issues!

The whole TM 'eco-system' is happy and racing well!

Tested online @ Spa, in GT2, GT3's in AC.

Over at the TM owners' FB group page, an owner suggested 'grounding the pedals or wheel'. I have asked how exactly. I may post the answer here but that FB group is worth a visit.

'https://www.facebook.com/groups/715191821996762'

Cheers.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Test # 3 ... A-OK ! No issues!

The whole TM 'eco-system' is happy and racing well!

Tested online @ Spa, in GT2, GT3's in AC.

Over at the TM owners' FB group page, an owner suggested 'grounding the pedals or wheel'. I have asked how exactly. I may post the answer here but that FB group is worth a visit.

'https://www.facebook.com/groups/715191821996762'

Cheers.

PH

test # 4 = A OK! Tested with GPL and AC for 2 hours total. I will only reply further if the issue returns.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

test # 4 = A OK! Tested with GPL and AC for 2 hours total. I will only reply further if the issue returns.

PH

Ratz!

The throttle issue came back! = throttle and clutch seemingly 'half reversed'; not completely. In GPL throttle gets stuck at 50% and clutch activates throttle more. Only fix is re-plug USB.

I did have 2 related events this past week. 1- I accidentally pressed the mode button while trying to tighten the desk clamp. I reset the mode; no further issues for 2 days. 2- while racing earlier, I noticed the pedal to wheelbase cable had moved and had indeed bent more near the wheelbase side connector. I am investigating this connector and cable.

The EMI issue was not suspected this time as I now have the power cable running on the other side of the wheel. But just now I found the USB cable had moved and was now running along side the power cable ... can't rule either issue out: 1- EMI again, but between different cables or 2- that pedal to wheelbase - wheelbase side connector.

Will report.

PH

 

[blekenbleu]

throttle gets stuck at 50% and clutch activates throttle more

That symptom could result from throttle and clutch position sensors (e.g. potentiometers) grounding points tied together (inside the pedal base) but not to ground (via cable and connector).

 

[Paul Harwood]

That symptom could result from throttle and clutch position sensors (e.g. potentiometers) grounding points tied together (inside the pedal base) but not to ground (via cable and connector).

T-LCM do not have potentiometers. They are HALL effect sensors.

 

[blekenbleu]

HAL effect sensors

If those sensors have ground references, then the principle holds.

 

[Paul Harwood]

Ratz!

The throttle issue came back! = throttle and clutch seemingly 'half reversed'; not completely. In GPL throttle gets stuck at 50% and clutch activates throttle more. Only fix is re-plug USB.

I did have 2 related events this past week. 1- I accidentally pressed the mode button while trying to tighten the desk clamp. I reset the mode; no further issues for 2 days. 2- while racing earlier, I noticed the pedal to wheelbase cable had moved and had indeed bent more near the wheelbase side connector. I am investigating this connector and cable.

The EMI issue was not suspected this time as I now have the power cable running on the other side of the wheel. But just now I found the USB cable had moved and was now running along side the power cable ... can't rule either issue out: 1- EMI again, but between different cables or 2- that pedal to wheelbase - wheelbase side connector.

Will report.

PH

The famous 'mode' button that switches the pedals from normal to inverted has special instructions on how to properly switch the modes When using firmware 34 !!!

T300 SERVO BASE - Thrustmaster - Technical support website

support.thrustmaster.com

I have not been switching modes properly! These instructions have changed! Check it out:

From downloaded T-300 manual:
"The T300 RS is also compatible with Thrustmaster pedal sets featuring 3 pedals (sold separately); these allow you to electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. To do so, simply press the MODE button (6) for 2 seconds. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not."

From the tech support current firmware version 34 - T300_RS_GT_manual.pdf

"MODE BUTTON AND INDICATOR LIGHT (6)
MODE button for the pedal set. You can electronically swap the accelerator and clutch pedals. Procedure: Simultaneously press and hold down the MODE + L3 + R3 buttons (located on the T300 racing wheel’s base) for five seconds, and then release them. The racing wheel’s internal memory stores whether the pedals have been swapped around or not, and the indicator light (6) flashes differently according to the mode you have selected: GAS AND CLUTCH PEDALS Color of the MODE indicator light (6) Switching to INVERTED mode Flashes five times after the procedure, then continuously flashes once every eight seconds. Switching to NORMAL mode Flashes once after the procedure, then does not flash continuously."

This is an important change in proper procedure.

To address any EMI issues I again re-routed the AC cable, clear of any of the other wheel cables.

To address the pedal to wheel - 'wheelbase end connector' potential issue, I re-routed that cable so it goes straight out of the wheelbase with no bending of the wire near that connector.

I have a race tonight; let's see how all this works out.

PH