Fanatec McLaren GT3 rim problems...

Hey guys,

Anyone having problems with their newly released McLaren GT3 rim? I am having the clutch paddles drop out on me after a random amount of time. Upon plugging the rim into the base (I use an OSW with the Fanatec wheel base side conversion kit with the newly flashed firmware to operate the GT3 rim) everything is recognized, map-able and works fine. After a while driving, the clutch paddles just drop out and become unusable. I've had the gear paddles drop out once or twice but it's the clutch paddles that do it pretty much every session. Sometimes after 20 minutes, sometimes after a couple of minutes. I've contacted both Fanatec and Simracingmachines.com where I got the conversion kit from in a hope to get to the bottom of it. Just wondering if anyone else is having drama with it.

When you first plug it in, everything is recognized so their shouldn't be a problem with compatibility. Just a reliability thing now.
 
I recently got a McLaren GT3 wheel (with the CSW QR), and have been driving with it for a few days now. It replaced an CSL Elite P1 wheel and I run them both on a CSW 2.5 wheelbase. I feel that the FFB is significantly lower on the McLaren wheel - I use the same settings in Assetto Corsa as for the P1 and I've also made sure the wheel profile is the same. Can it be down to the feels just feeling so different, the grip I get of the GT3 wheel is of course much better? Still, the difference feel quite big to me?
 
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yeh, you're spot on, i have an f2018 le, a flat1 on a uni hub, a bmw gt2 and a mclaren gt3 rim, and they all feel so different. the macca looses a lot of ffb compared to the forrmula and flat1, but the bmw looses even more, just crank it up a bit. i only use iracing and i have the settings saved to each individual car so that when i swap car, i swap rims too and get the feel that i want.
 
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Well, thanks, that's good new I guess - it's an feature rather than an issue. I will keep on tweaking the settings. Is a new LUT required for a new wheel?
The csw Base doesn't need any lut or min force or anything. Please don't use such stuff with this Base...

Anyway, I have a p1 alcantara and the mclaren wheel. I need to crank up the ffb a little with the p1 rim. Guess it's all down to the diameter and the leverage it creates and also how good your grip is.
Ffb is definitely the same :)
 
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I suspect this could be down to wheel weight, the BMW GT2 wheel is heavy or wheel size as RasmusP mentioned. Material the wheel is made from may affect FFB feel, where the more plastic GT3 wheel might absorb/dampen some of the finer detail compared to the stiffer metal/carbon fibre CSW wheels.

The only time I really noticed a difference was when I went from the GT2/GT3 to the f2018le due to the smaller size, which required more effort to turn the wheel at the same FFB setting... but I soon adjusted.
 
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I just got my McLaren rim in the mail today and updated my wheel base to version v328 and updated the firmware on the wheel. Recalibrate the wheel, pedals H-pattern shifter and hand brake.

So far so good, but I haven't tried it out yet.
I guess I need to set up my two preferences next.

McLarenWheel_4048.jpg
 
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youre just missing a wind sim now bud, i can highly recomend mike at simgadgets.com for an affordable option

I have a vortex fan that I normally put in front of the rig and if I need serious cooling I have a ceiling fan over me that can generate gail force wind :) I'm not worried about directional wind.
 
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Fil that's such an awesome space for your rig! Very clever!

How did you mount the SRM shifter paddles to the McLaren rim? Isn't the shifter on that rim different from the other rims? I might look into that upgrade. I don't mind the shifter paddles but I think it's the weakest part of the rim, for me.
 
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Fil that's such an awesome space for your rig! Very clever!

How did you mount the SRM shifter paddles to the McLaren rim? Isn't the shifter on that rim different from the other rims? I might look into that upgrade. I don't mind the shifter paddles but I think it's the weakest part of the rim, for me.
A friend of mine did the same. It's a pretty extensive mod:
- detach the shifter bar
- cut off the bump-stops for the original bar
- open the rim completely
- get rid of the original snapdomes
- solder the new cables to the contact from the original snapdomes
- put the whole thing together again
- put the new paddles in there (drilling new holes into the rim at specific places)

It's not that difficult to do but you definitely lose the warranty and it's not plug & play!
 
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