Fanatec McLaren GT3 rim problems...

Hey guys,

Anyone having problems with their newly released McLaren GT3 rim? I am having the clutch paddles drop out on me after a random amount of time. Upon plugging the rim into the base (I use an OSW with the Fanatec wheel base side conversion kit with the newly flashed firmware to operate the GT3 rim) everything is recognized, map-able and works fine. After a while driving, the clutch paddles just drop out and become unusable. I've had the gear paddles drop out once or twice but it's the clutch paddles that do it pretty much every session. Sometimes after 20 minutes, sometimes after a couple of minutes. I've contacted both Fanatec and Simracingmachines.com where I got the conversion kit from in a hope to get to the bottom of it. Just wondering if anyone else is having drama with it.

When you first plug it in, everything is recognized so their shouldn't be a problem with compatibility. Just a reliability thing now.
 
wow! well i did get an answer on this elsewhere, fanatec released firmware v30 for the macca rim and its like magic, all of the former issues are resolved and with the addition of srm(thanks simon) mclaren magnetic shifter conversion kit, its now gone from really good to absolutely fantastic! if anyone wants any info on the kit just shout me.
 

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wow! well i did get an answer on this elsewhere, fanatec released firmware v30 for the macca rim and its like magic, all of the former issues are resolved and with the addition of srm(thanks simon) mclaren magnetic shifter conversion kit, its now gone from really good to absolutely fantastic! if anyone wants any info on the kit just shout me.
Did you fit the paddles yourself or did you send the wheel into SRM?
If you fitted the paddles yourself, how easy did you find the process?
I have a set of SRM paddles for my F1 2018 LE and they are a step up from the standard paddles, but the fitting process for the GT3 wheel is much more involved. It looks easy enough, but not as reversable as the ones on my F1 2018 LE.
 
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no, i wouldnt say it was reversable, unless you can be extemely accurate in cutting off the bump stops to glue them back on, or you could use them as a guid to make some new ones, get someone to 3d print some maybe.
everything else is reversable though becaust the holes are very descreet.
The soldering was the only tough part for me having never soldered before but even that was a breeze in the end. Here is simons walk through for opening up the gt3, you only need to go as far as removing the board though.

https://www.simracingmachines.com/webshop/Content/FanatecMcLarenConversionKitInstructions.pdf

and this is the shifter walk through.

https://www.simracingmachines.com/w...aded/Fanatec McLaren Shifter Instructions.pdf

simracinggarage has a youttube video showing a teardown too, this part is very easy.
i didnt use a drill though, just a very sharp watchmakers screwdriver and for the cables with the plugs on the ends i just melted through with the soldering iron.
All in all it was really quick and easy and its so fulfilling.
 

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Thanks Fil140.
Ultimately, I am not sure why I would want to reverse the change because I am happy with my other set of SRM shifters... so I think I am going to order a set. :)
 
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oh wozza, go for the stronger magnets though, im having simon send me a stronger set after mis-clicking and ordering the 3mm and finding that they are too weak. imo.
 
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Has anyone recently bought a Macca wheel? I'm looking for a new wheel but reading about all the problems doesn't do it any good. I've seen that Fanatec knows what the problem is and wheels are getting fixed. But does anyone know if they also fixed the problems in the production itself and if the fail rate is now lower?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Has anyone recently bought a Macca wheel? I'm looking for a new wheel but reading about all the problems doesn't do it any good. I've seen that Fanatec knows what the problem is and wheels are getting fixed. But does anyone know if they also fixed the problems in the production itself and if the fail rate is now lower?

Thanks in advance![/Q

Hey Chris. i had a rim from someone who had voided his warranty, the clutches didnt work and it mis-shifted constantly, i stripped it down and resecured the snap domes inside and tried taking out the potentiometers and serviced them, stil no joy so i stuck it in a box.My own went away to fanatec and they sent me a test beta firmware and this one worked 100%. so that was november and seemed as though they sorted it, i tried that firmware on the old one but it didnt help.
However, last week they released fw30 and a new wheel base driver and now that old knackered wheel works at 100%.
So my answer is that with the new updates, even the original batch of bad un's is even sorted, so, if you buy a new one im pretty sure itll be great, but if you get a preowned one and do the update then im fairly certain that you wont have any issues, i even took q1 and p1 in the ferarri at detroit using what was the knackered one.
Phil.
 
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Now that's a magnet, I got too close to one of the 5mm ones on the work bench with another one in my hand and it jumped up and snapped together pinching my skin and leaving a nasty blood blister!
 
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Now that's a magnet, I got too close to one of the 5mm ones on the work bench with another one in my hand and it jumped up and snapped together pinching my skin and leaving a nasty blood blister!
LOL... I fitted the SRM paddles last night and every time I moved them something snapped to the magnets... screws, allen keys, screwdriver bits... strong little buggers.
 
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very nice mate, did you go with the 5mm magnets?
Yes, I went with the 5mm magnets.
I ended up stripping the whole wheel down and take off the clutch paddles because all the plugs were glued into the sockets on the control board... other than the plug for the wheel connection, which came out easily. Having the control board out of the way allowed me more flexibility when fitting the paddles.
There are a couple of knicks and scrapes where I got over eager with the Dremel when cutting off the old paddle stops, but all of that is pretty much hidden behind the new paddles.
Getting the nuts on the fixing bolts was pretty tight due to being quite close the strengthening ribs, but a pair of needle nose pliers helped to get the tightened.
All in all, it took around 3 hours so I only had a chance for a quick check that all of the buttons/paddles register in the Fanatec app. All looks good so far, but I'll give it a real test tonight.
 
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