DIY Ferrari 2011 Wheel

At this point in time I'm in the research phase for my future DIY project. I have never done anything like this, and I'm certainly no handy man. You think this sounds weird? Wait till you read what I want to do...

In short, this is what I want to build:
Ferrari-Replica-Steering-Wheel.jpg

Features:
Leo Bodnar SLI-Pro
Shifter paddles
Clutch paddles
Hall effect sensors for clutch (Allegro A1302)
Microswitches for shifters (???)
12 rotary switches
3 regular switches
10 (knitter) pushbuttons (only if I can strike a deal)
Quick release
2 layers of Carbon fibre shell
glass fibre cast
rubber grips

I will create my own CAD drawings, guestimating measurements, with the help from some known sizes, and my own 3d model made for my 3D portfolio.

Estimated cost: €450,-

Yes, this might seem way out of my league for someone who has no experience with this stuff at all. Because it is. But I'm a stubborn bastard and I would love to do this. There isn't a single product on the market which suits me for an affordable price. Buying a Thrustmaster and adjusting that still sucks, since thats costs about 500 without the SLI-Pro and buttons added, and it basically is a plastic toy still..

For now, I have the following questions:
- According to Bodnars' website, the hall effect sensor can be connected directly to the SLI-pro, is this true?
- Is it expensive to have moulds routed/cnc-ed?
- Which microswitches for the shifters? What about the mounting, no idea how just yet.
- Is the quick release worth my money?
- Is it possible to route all wires through the steering wheel/colum into the steering wheel base?
- I will be in the market for a new steering wheel base, Im still using an old Momo Racing. second hand g27?

Any feedback, opinion, help etc, is much appreciated.


edit:
Before I forget, any plans, templates, files I create, will be free to use by the community :) Im just not responsible for any mistakes in them :p
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No I didn't find anything I liked really, maybe I'll take a look again, or manufacture them myself some way.

Definitely create a topic of your own as I'm curious to see it built and probably more people as well.

This weekend I worked on the shifter paddles and did some tweaking to the inner frame. Still waiting on some feedback on the back panel, but I hope to receive that soon.

All in all I hope to have something milled within a month. Right now, the only things left to rebuild in Inventor are the clutch paddles and mounts. All the rest is done and only requires some tweaking and lining up really, all the big stuff is there. On a mechanical level, I'll have to double check everything too, meaning all connections and holes need to line up, decide where the threads need to go, etc. Also, I might purchase the quick release mentioned earlier after my paycheck comes in again ;)
 
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Came in today, the affordable quick release I found :)
No play whatsoever and very sturdy!
2zhjti9.jpg


The last parts will be updated this evening and after that it's time to double check a set of measurements with the reference material.
 
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Glad it's all coming together!
If Bodnar's SLI-F1 isn't 1:1 I think he'll lose some buyers for sure... :(
Did you try both Knitter and NKK switches btw? Personally I find that NKK's drive you mad after a while... Too stiff. I also like the Knitter buttons that aren't flat, since stickers take longer to wear or slide off.
Keep up the work!
 
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Thanks, and thanks for the big help ;)

I have both pushbuttons, and NKK feels more like it belongs in a racecar :)

edit:
Exiting times, final checklist for measurements on the way, checking 51 measurements with an Amalgam wheel :p If this won't be accurate, it's out of my hands!
 
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Haha glad to hear that William.
May be you can help me ? i need to know the distances between the three holes on the quick release basis (the ones connected to the wheel :p).

I'm going to use Knitter switches because of the button shape + they seems to be the ones used on the real mp4-26 :p
 
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Great to see your progress there!! Excellent work.:thumbsup:

On the back plate you'll need to sand down the very top of the central raised section so that it blends in with the gentle curvature of middle part of the top line of the plate. (Make the side edges smoother too.)

And on the front, remember that the indented circle also has smooth lines, both towards the outside as well as towards the central rotating knob. Once it get's its right surface shine it will still show as clear indent. The transition is perhaps 3 mm or so, so be careful not to make it too abrupt.

All else look fab!

/Jessun
 
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