DIY Ferrari 2011 Wheel

[William Geuze]

At this point in time I'm in the research phase for my future DIY project. I have never done anything like this, and I'm certainly no handy man. You think this sounds weird? Wait till you read what I want to do...

In short, this is what I want to build:

Features:
Leo Bodnar SLI-Pro
Shifter paddles
Clutch paddles
Hall effect sensors for clutch (Allegro A1302)
Microswitches for shifters (???)
12 rotary switches
3 regular switches
10 (knitter) pushbuttons (only if I can strike a deal)
Quick release
2 layers of Carbon fibre shell
glass fibre cast
rubber grips

I will create my own CAD drawings, guestimating measurements, with the help from some known sizes, and my own 3d model made for my 3D portfolio.

Estimated cost: €450,-

Yes, this might seem way out of my league for someone who has no experience with this stuff at all. Because it is. But I'm a stubborn bastard and I would love to do this. There isn't a single product on the market which suits me for an affordable price. Buying a Thrustmaster and adjusting that still sucks, since thats costs about 500 without the SLI-Pro and buttons added, and it basically is a plastic toy still..

For now, I have the following questions:
- According to Bodnars' website, the hall effect sensor can be connected directly to the SLI-pro, is this true?
- Is it expensive to have moulds routed/cnc-ed?
- Which microswitches for the shifters? What about the mounting, no idea how just yet.
- Is the quick release worth my money?
- Is it possible to route all wires through the steering wheel/colum into the steering wheel base?
- I will be in the market for a new steering wheel base, Im still using an old Momo Racing. second hand g27?

Any feedback, opinion, help etc, is much appreciated.


edit:
Before I forget, any plans, templates, files I create, will be free to use by the community Im just not responsible for any mistakes in them

 

[William Geuze]

Just out of curiosity:

In working with my mold design and test fitting some parts, I found that I'm a bit off in width of the wheel. This results in too little distance between the side of the main panel and the row of push buttons on the left and right side of the wheel. Now, it's only 3 millimeters per side. As should be apparent already, I'm building a replica* so I want to be as close as possible as I can. As a consequence I am probably going to redo the mold design, after the SLI-F1, or the mystery unannounced new f1 style display**, have become available. My question, is there anyone who is interested buying the existing mold to work on maybe? It does need work obviously, in the grips, but that can be sorted out.

I'm just seeing if anybody is interested, but in all honesty, I'd rather redo the mold than to be regretting it every time I look at my steering wheel in the future.

So all in all, if you're interested, drop me a message. I don't know about pricing, we'll figure it out. The mold is higher than it needs to be even, so if anything, you could forget this is actually a mold,hollow it out, bolt grips to it and use it directly as a wheel.

This project is still going, for the long run. It WILL get done.


*
This has given me trouble all the way throughout this project, but I don't compromise, and every part I've produced so far, works as intended!

**
Very curious about this thing which I know almost nothing about

edit:
Basic programming is on hold now, we figured out some things and waiting on the target platform to choose. Right now we can do Java, Lua, C# and C++, all depends on the software used to power the SLI-F1 or the new display. I'm just hoping it will be SLI manager to be honest, since that is a tried and tested product.

 

[William Geuze]

Are the likes subtle hints for updates?

I did put something together this weekend for my brother, will post a photo tonight. It's nothing fancy but it's just going to be a small panel with the sort of electronics I'll be using to work with the SLI-F1. I really did this because there just isn't anything else to really till we get that display, but it was fun installing those parts on that panel, something I haven't done before

More on the main functions on the wheel btw:

From the video Ferrari posted I gained quite some knowledge about the main functions of the wheel

- the three tumble switches, BO, START, WET, those are actually preset switches. Meaning, whatever settings you do on the wheel, when you flick one of those switches, you can load up any setting you want. For example for warming up the tires i can activate the burnout switch and I can do burnouts easily to heat up the tires before the start of hotlap. Same goes for the start preset, where for example I set my maximum revs to be lower than the max revs, and have less torque put on the rear wheels, as well as change the throttle map to a less steep curve. These changes will allow me to drive off with the least chance of wheelspin while keeping enough torque on the wheels to gain lots of speed, if setup correctly that is A pitstop would be a nice time to flick that switch as well. As for WET, we will probably do much of the same as with start to be honest. In real life though, the wet tires have slightly different measurements, so they adjust much more settings to make sure everything functions like it should after fitting those (even correct measurement of speed on track is involved).
- Aside from the switches, there is one button that is sort of a preset as well, or more of an override button. This is the Ov button, or overtake. I haven't decided if this will be a push and hold type of button, or a toggle. What this button will do, is take whatever setting we can do on the steering wheel, and max it out. Full revs, full rich fuel mixture, full torque, full kerbs boost.
- Whenever one of the presets or oV button is switched off, the settings will revert to the settings made on the steering wheel, this can probably still give issues along the way.
- The main large knob (mf) of course is something we use to select functions. Now how we are going to use that I don't know exactly, basically we just need to find uses for it really One function for example could be the clutch bitepoint curve, where we can make that curve steep or shallow depending on the current clutch pedal input. If you actually can tell the difference between the curves when starting, well, that's another question.
- Hopefully we can make diff adjustments as well to use the left encoder, the right will be for the kers harvesting setting, hopefully we can use that as well in the way it is meant to.
- The rest of the buttons will do what they say really, except for pump and drink, and the second rf (rear flap) button. We will find uses for that probably, or not

I know it is recommended using two encoders to change the displays and a switch for the brightness on the display. Personally I think that is a bit silly, because how many times during a session or race to you actively adjust the brightness, or the displays? Unless you are showing off the display on a video, I really don't think you change the display more than two or three times during a session. Therefore, I'm assigning the tumble switches at the back of the wheel to the displays. I'm only interested in a couple of things really.. Speed, delta times, position, overall tire temps, and more I can't even think of right now.. The types of switches for that will be of the ON-OFF-ON kind, where only the first and last position will send out a signal. The middle position will be the off position where the display reverts to it's standard setting. Whatever each position on the switch does we can obviously change. It would be cool to be able to change that with the use of the main knob so it can all be done in the car

How this all basically should work, and we can not test this out yet, is have the functions divided in different states. This means there is a 'normal' state, where all the switches and encoders have their functions, but for each preset switch the wheel will be in a different state following other rules. For example, in the normal state of operation we can fiddle with everything single switch and make it look like we know what the hell we are doing... When we feel like it, we can flick the burnout switch to get more heat in the tires for whatever reason, and a different set of rules and settings will be loaded. Per preset switch, we're actually loading a seperate file where we can store settings, base on the standard state of the wheel. The switches on the wheel are now disabled, since we are using the burnout settings right now. The display switches still function like they should, and other buttons not used in the preset as well probably, but all values influenced by the preset are frozen, until you flick the switch off again. This applies to the overtake button as well for example.

Can you do without all of these presets? Of course, everything that is pre-set on the wheel can be altered using the switches, but why bother when you can use a preset. Especially the Ov button sounds cool to be using. For example when you are doing a long practise run, you can change the settings a bit to where you can still keep up a good racepace without too much effort, but keeping fuel consumption and tire wear low. If in the race you find you just can't keep up, for example you can turn up the KERS boost and probably the fuel mixture a bit. Now you still have room left in terms of performace, so if you use the Ov switch as a toggle, you can do 3 laps on full power for example and overtake that guy in front of you, and after that settle back into the pace you were before consuming less fuel an burning up less rubber. Provided you're quicker than that guy ofcourse The possibilities are really nice when I think about them and with all these buttons and settings we can do, we almost need to think of excuses and uses to actually have those switches do something

Will this wheel make me a faster driver? No sir, but I'm sure there are some advantages to be had, if only between my ears


edit:
if it seems we're overthinking this, well... :X

 

[belldanndy]

It's seem that you are no the only one waiting for the SLI-F1. I just back from Leo forum.

 

[William Geuze]

I think many people are waiting, but I'm afraid a lot of them are sick and tired of it by now and are looking for alternatives! If only Bodnar realises this, or do they

 

[michal226]

Can I know what is pushbuttons diameter U will use

 

[William Geuze]

That's probably the standard 10mm for both knitter or nkk switches. I will probably move to nkk switches as they are way cheaper

 

[simracn]

10mm for knitter and NKK? i measure the threaded area on the NKK and Knitters at .245 inches or just under 6.35mm
Or are you talking about a different area/size button?

 

[William Geuze]

Hey Charlie, how are you
Yes those thread sizes are correct, I assumed michal was talking about the caps indeed

In the meantime, frustration is building to see the sli-f1 released. Frankly, I'm sick and tired of waiting...

 

[Kai Lohmann]

Hey,

Well there is a difference in the caps, i measure 9mm on the NKK and 10 on the knitter switches. Also the knitter switches are just 34 cents more expensive then the NKK if you look at the right place.
Im just concerned that the caps are not flat and therefore its hard to add stickers.
The NKK got a better and more heavy feedback whiule pressing.

As for the sli-f1, its really starts to get annoying since i was also waiting for it but now skipped it completely. At the end it wont look any better then the simrace pro, just some more options in the software, but the looks are similar. If you now compare the pricings i really dont know why anyone will buy a sli-f1 with housing for 300€...
If you know that technically those display can be manufactured for about 25-35€ the above price is just a stupid joke for me!

Greets Kai / Modmate

 

[William Geuze]

Thanks for the info Kai
Are both types of caps not flat or only the knitter ones? For me the heavier press on the NKK is really important, makes it feel more high-end / professional in a way

Yeah the pricetag, oh man...

As I have said before, just similar isn't close enough for me. Now I'm paying the price for being such a nitpicking bastard ofcourse, but hey, I'm replicating something properly, or not all.. I'm actually going to purchase the housing, since they, in their wisdom... altered the design. Another part which needs to be manufactured, argh!

 

[Kai Lohmann]

Well , the sli-f1 isnt a replica anymore since bodnar changed the design some time ago, its not 1:1 its also just similar to the real thing. I really dont know why you pay 300€ for something cost 30€ in manufacturing??? As for the caps, the NKK are flat and the Knitter not.

Greets

 

[William Geuze]

Damnit, just edited my post!!

You are right that they did, so I will purchase only the display and manufacture my own housing 1:1 with the real drawings. If they made changes to the actual display itself as well, man, I don't know where to go... I just hope they only changed the housing, and used the real specs for the display itself. If it will be any other, what the hell is the point of the unit then.....

Cool, looks like I will be going for NKK then

edit:
about the why?
again and again. I'm dead set on replicating this ferrari wheel. I'm going through lots of trouble getting it exactly right, even pushing aside the mold that I worked on because it isn't close enough. Now if I stick a display on there which doesn't even get the amount of revlights right, that is just plain silly to me and diminishes all the effort on the rest of the wheel, I can't do that. While I have the choice, I will go for the option which is as close as possible. And yes, horribly overpriced, but there isn't much that can be done to change that.

 

[Kai Lohmann]

There is also a company upcoming with a 1:1 replica wich work sort of together with mr. bodnar, if you like infos i will write you a pm. Really strange to hear they work "together", well at least i think they get discounts and stuff.

Hope your wheel see the sunlight someday for sure!

 

[William Geuze]

It has been a while...

As I'm going to start working on a new countermold this weekend, I figured I warmed up Autodesk Inventor a bit. I happened to stumble on a second hand sparco steering wheel (33cm) which I got for 25 euros, and came up with this wheel plate for it. I might have it made, or not, but for that money, I couldn't let that wheel slip past me

Anyone interested in the design, just ask and you can get a template

About the F1 wheel, I found a new supplier for all milling jobs, which is great. Also thanks to a forum member I'm getting lots of measurements from an Amalgam wheel, so thats really as close as I can get. This means when I updated my designs, it's no longer a question if I'm on the money or not, when those measurements match, I can have them milled right away basically, since I have everything as accurate as possible without having Alonso's personal wheel on my desk

 

[William Geuze]

The wheel adapter for the G27 platform has been sent off to a contact so it can be manufactured.

It will work with 70mm aftermarket steering wheels, and it also allows for a 20mm spline shaft to be fitted, bolting it in place on 3 sides. The spline will be adjusted so it can not twist under pressure, and for the bolts to grip.

Credits go to SalaMotorsport for giving me the idea of using bolts to keep the spline in place

 

[William Geuze]

I had a very pleasant surprise on Thursday, a while ago I helped a fellow forum member who bought an Amalgan Ferrari wheel. Since I found it irresistible not to ask, I ended up with a promise from that person to help me out with measurements. The guy kept his word to the letter and supplied me with very accurate measurements and dito photographs.

What is interesting, firstly, is that when cross-checking with my previous version of my wheel, I was actually pretty close! The things that were different were because of distorted photos and guess work from blurry pictures. But now, I even captured a design flaw (in my view) through following measurements. I checked with the person to see if the same 'flaw' was in his wheel and, surprise, there it was, exactly the same thing! I had never spotted this before to be honest, because it doesn't make sense to me... Those who spot it, it is probably easy to see now, especially once you know about I guess

Anyway, I'm not emberassed to say I have used Amalgam data, as it is the best reference I could have, period. The latest update for the front frame:

I'm already talking to someone who can CNC it for me, he is ready to start tomorrow so to speak

edit:
Before I forget, I found this great alternative for the Lifeline quickreleases! Only 95 euro's for the formula style one

 

[William Geuze]

The adapter came in today:

It can take any 70mm wheel or quick release, as well as a 20mm spline which will be installed at a later time

 

[Remydio]

Hello there,

I'm also working on a similar project since a few months, the wheel is the first step on my way to build an f1 cockpit.
By the way, i choosed another company to inspire my Work : McLaren
Doing some research i found your thread and man....your are doing an awsome job doing this replica which is far to be the easyest one.

I'll be for sure looking forward to your progress.

edit : I found this page while looking if the knobs used by the team exists :
There are some knobs pretty similar to yours i thinks.
http://fr.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Knobs-Dials/_/N-5g22/?No=325

 

[William Geuze]

Hey Remydio, thanks, McLaren wheel is looking really good there, about time someone started working on something else than the Ferrari one!

edit:
Although I didn't post it, the g27 adapter fits like a glove and I've been driving the rF2 corvette using the sparco
This weekend I'm going through the last touchups on the grips, and hopefully some more on the back as well. When those parts are done, and double checked with the data I can move on to the shifters and clutch to be updated. When all that new stuff is in, I'm really hoping to be able to send off the parts for milling quite soon.

 

[Remydio]

Thanks for the comments, did you checked the webpage for the Rotary encored Knobs ?
I had some good progress during this weekend...modelled 16 hours straight...have to say i'm very new to modelling things, so i takes me hours to do simple things
May be i should open my own thread here in order not to flood yours .

I planning to build a pedal set as well, but the lack off datas/pictures i could exploit is frustrating.