Ahhh, Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V2 problems, please help

[Spinelli]

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Most never use the clutch



Lo F'ing L Why do we spend 200+ on fancy H pattern shifter's for. TO NOT use the clutch.

100% disagree

I can't answer for most people since I have no statistics to back up such a claim, but I clutch and heel toe even in some cars that are sequential irl. It just adds so much more to the experience to me.

 

[Blkout]

I can't answer for most people since I have no statistics to back up such a claim, but I clutch and heel toe even in some cars that are sequential irl. It just adds so much more to the experience to me.

Some games offer that option, some games like iRacing force you to use the IRL transmission/clutch in game.

 

[Mark Jarvis]

Hi everyone, I just thought I would share my terrible experience with the V2 pedals - I bought some V2 Pedals for xmas - Started using them on Dec 31st and the throttle pedal was spiking after 5 days. It gradually got worse over the next couple of days and within 2 weeks they were screwed! I contacted Fanatec and after going through the troubleshooting they told me to swap the connectors of the sensors between the clutch and throttle pedal to diagnose that it was in fact the sensor that had failed. I mean after 5 days of use you would not expect this to happen? or is that just me? Anyway I took off the circuit board only to find the connectors they wanted me to change had been totally glue gunned to c**p!! No way I could move any of the connectors (in the picture on the troubleshooting these connectors were free to be unplugged when ever you like). It makes me think these were never new when I unboxed them - More like broken, fixed and re sold at full retail price. I was so unimpressed with all of this that I demanded a full refund and for them to get them collected ASAP! I liked how they felt but am not going to pay almost 300 euros for the privilege of being totally screwed over!

I have gone back to G27 pedals - Granted they feel really bad but they work! And have never caused me any issues. Actually I was thinking that the V2 pedals would make me more consistently faster but it is not the case, just felt a bit more realistic. I am 4600 irating by the way before anyone says I am obviously a rubbish driver that doesnt know the difference between chalk and cheese!!

Anyway - I am not one for writing reviews or such like but on this occasion I just had to tell others about ,my terrible experience with these pedals. if I were you I would think twice before delving into your pockets! The only good thing is that fanatec agreed to refund me and have them collected after I said I wasn't interested in a repair.

I was then thinking of getting the DSD pedals but my friend who recommended them to me has recently had some spiking problems and Derek told him to buy a $5 part on eBay and fix it all himself so I am quite reluctant to buy any higher end pedals or hardware when it seems they are temperamental to say the least and the lack of customer service with some of these other companies seems questionable... Anyone got a recommendation of a higher end set of pedals? I am not expecting a set to never go wrong but it seems like after 1 year you can expect all sorts of troubles....

Thanks for reading ,

Mark

 

[Brian McManus]

After three years i have gone three sensors.
Now my pedals are out of warranty and the load cell is now gone.
I payed €37.50 for it,
€15.00 for the part and €22.50 which is a steep for standard postage to ireland.

The clutch is now my temperary brake pedal :lol:

I might upgrade later this year .
But they are a good pedal set when they are working.

 

[Mark Jarvis]

After three years i have gone three sensors.
Now my pedals are out of warranty and the load cell is now gone.
I payed €37.50 for it,
€15.00 for the part and €22.50 which is a steep for standard postage to ireland.

The clutch is now my temperary brake pedal :lol:

I might upgrade later this year .
But they are a good pedal set when they are working.

That sucks! And each time it goes wrong you have to wait to get the parts and fix it... could you change the sensors yourself though? Mine as I stated above were glued together! See attached pic...

What will you upgrade to? I found downgrading was a better option!! haha

.

 

[Brian McManus]

Normally i could take the sensor off the clutch the use it temperarily.
The last time i had trouble they sent me two sensors.

Yea i could change the sensors myself ,
i didnt have any glue on the connections.
But the glue will come away easily if you are patient.
Just dont pull the cables pry the glue from the pcb with a small srew driver.

I really like the dsd pedals because they are for race cars modified for simracing, i havent looked at any reviews yet though.