Ahhh, Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V2 problems, please help

[Spinelli]

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

 

[Blkout]

So maybe I should Sell my CSP's and buy some elites.

Agreed.

 

[Paul Tucker]

you guys really should try putting a mugen shock on your csp's, the fanatec shock is garbage, also if you want your brake to feel 100 times better then move the pivot arm up a hole on your brake arm.

 

[Paul Tucker]

Just as I stated, you've already had to repair/replace components on your CSP's. at least you got off easy, some people have had a lot more trouble with theirs. Either way, you buy a set of CSP's, you're going to need to repair/replace parts on them. That's pretty unacceptable to me when it happens within a year or less for most people.

As for your last statement, no, not even remotely close.

I look at my csp's as something I need to care for like any piece of hardware with moving parts, that also means adding better components and tuning them to my liking, ive tried nicks mugen mod and let me tell you its amazing.

 

[Teflon63]

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

 

[Teflon63]

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

Hey man...I feel your pain. I have the same problem. Only had the V2's a few weeks and the brakes started acting up right out of the blue. I tried adjusting the load cell and re-installing the firmware with no luck. The pedals finally just stopped showing any response in the Fanatec Test panel. The throttle and clutch work fine but the brake is gone. I really have never seen such a stupid design. It was hard to see what lousy pedals these are judging from video and pictures. You have to try to work on these things to realize they are a terrible designed product. Worst wiring I have ever seen. Exposed PCB with tiny, ridiculous wiring and I paid 250 bucks for these things. I am going to try the Muggen RC shock mod. Anything would be an improvement at this point. If that doesn't work then I will sell these pedals to some other sucker and wait for some real pedals ...like the PST pedals that are coming out soon.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

WOW, those PST pedals look like a real great deal, something I've been looking for, something in the pricebracket between the V2s and the insanely priced pedals that starts at $600+ and goes well up to a 1000.

 

[Moxley6969]

lol post # 2 was the best.

 

[Blkout]

lol post # 2 was the best.

What's funny about it?

 

[sgspenceley]

I have owned and used clubsports for two years and loved the build quality and all metal construction. For the money they are hard to beat!

I recently added the RC shock and its a great upgrade. I'm still on my first load cell and have a spare for when it dies. In my opinion this is one of the best bits of sim gear I have bought.

 

[sgspenceley]

Sorry to hear other sim racers are experiencing issues.

 

[Teflon63]

Sorry to hear other sim racers are experiencing issues.

Hi...I did get a replacement Load Cell for Fanatec.....It took 3 weeks to get the problem taken care of. I guess I am spoiled. I build my rigs with quality components from reputable companies and have never had such slow service. Fanatec did give me a free Load Cell....woopeeeee.
I bought 4 of these cell on Ebay for 5 bucks and free shipping. Fanatec charges 15 bucks plus 1250 shipping...WTF....
Anyway, I did the Mugen RC shock mod with an nice improvement to the pedals. Now that they work after the mod I am starting to like them very much. Before I was a little strong in my opinion of the Clubsports. But for Christ sake Fanatec...just sen a spare Load cell. Is that too much to ask?
A 1 Dollar item....jeeez

 

[Spinelli]

The pedals have been sitting here for two months now as I'm using not only a set of G25 pedals, but I'm using the clutch pedal as my brake since I stripped a screw on the brake pedal while trying to remove the terrible-as-hell Nixim brake mod (the little earaser/rubber type thing from years ago). I might get that mugen damper and spring set soon.

 

[Moxley6969]

What exactly is wrong Spinelli ?

 

[Blkout]

http://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/2p8snp/csp_v2_brake_broken_after_less_than_a_week/

 

[Moxley6969]

Doesn't really say much to be honest, One had a loose screw on the load cell screw, Tightened and no problems, One found USB 3.0 ports to cause some issues and the fact one user is mentioning the magnet is funny as there's NO magnet what so ever on the brake pedal lol.

And the last guy openly admits to having the wire be "loose" and all that was needed was it plugged back in. (after having Fana send out new parts)

So I guess i'll ask again what exactly is wrong Spinelli ?

 

[Terry Rock]

I like my Clubsports v1, but the ownership has proven a bit frustrating at time...like now.
Exactly two years to the day after purchase, the first throttle sensor failed.
The second one failed nine months later and now the replacement for that one has failed in less than three months.
Both the clutch and brake are the original sensors.

 

[Spinelli]

First post explains the problems but i'll go over them quick agin.

1. On the first day the brake felt brilliant. A real damper-like, fluid-like feel. Now it feels like a regular non-damper, spring pedal.

2. The loadcell doesn't activate while during the damper travel, but activates at the end of travel once there's no more travel left. Basically it's like literally pressing on a brick wall that doesn't even move 0.1 mm (but can still measure the force your putting against it).

3. The loadcell has to be pressed an insane amount, even on the softest setting I can't even get it to 100% braking, but on the first day I could get 100% braking without even having the pedals mounted, just sitting on the carpet, pretty easy for the first 3 or so loadcell levels. But now the easiest loacell setting takes as much effort as it did when it was set to the 2nd or 3rd most forceful setting when working properly.

Issue 2 and 3 might be related, just a guess.

I tried re-oiling them too.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Sounds like something is loose on your pedals, sounds all wrong.

 

[Blkout]

Doesn't really say much to be honest, One had a loose screw on the load cell screw, Tightened and no problems, One found USB 3.0 ports to cause some issues and the fact one user is mentioning the magnet is funny as there's NO magnet what so ever on the brake pedal lol.

And the last guy openly admits to having the wire be "loose" and all that was needed was it plugged back in. (after having Fana send out new parts)

So I guess i'll ask again what exactly is wrong Spinelli ?

Its fine dude, you're clearly a Fanatec fanboy to no end. A quick google search of "Clubsport v2 problem" will return about a month's worth of reading and that doesn't even allow you to read the iRacing forums. I get that you like to "tinker/repair" your gear but most people don't and quite frankly shouldn't have to.

 

[Moxley6969]

First post explains the problems but i'll go over them quick agin.

1. On the first day the brake felt brilliant. A real damper-like, fluid-like feel. Now it feels like a regular non-damper, spring pedal.

2. The loadcell doesn't activate while during the damper travel, but activates at the end of travel once there's no more travel left. Basically it's like literally pressing on a brick wall that doesn't even move 0.1 mm (but can still measure the force your putting against it).

3. The loadcell has to be pressed an insane amount, even on the softest setting I can't even get it to 100% braking, but on the first day I could get 100% braking without even having the pedals mounted, just sitting on the carpet, pretty easy for the first 3 or so loadcell levels. But now the easiest loacell setting takes as much effort as it did when it was set to the 2nd or 3rd most forceful setting when working properly.

Issue 2 and 3 might be related, just a guess.

I tried re-oiling them too.

Ok well for starters the stock Shock as its been discussed lacks on many fronts, The First Not being able to hold any oil/pressure for any length of time. Next would be the fact it will literally eat itself alive due to being such a low quality Pot metal. This is turn leads to the shock feeling great for the first few session's and once you've worked thing's in, It will start to leak, Introduce air to the system and then your back at square one.

The load cell not activating till the end of the travel is part of the poor Stock position of the Brake pedal pivot arm. Raise the Pivot up One hole and it All of a sudden works as it should,

Where have you sourced the load cells from ? Stock Fanatec's ? Might have an issue right there if you've been through 3 cells already....Never had to oil my pedals, Granted i don't race in silence, Shaker's and what not going.