iRacing Mazda MX5.jpg
iRacing is regarded as the gold standard for competitive sim racing. No other simulation features a comparable, dedicated multiplayer system that treats the races like real events. RaceDepartment writer Yannik Haustein is taking his first, long-overdue steps in the sim now and takes you along with him – starting in rookies, of course.

Better late than never – that sums it up rather well in my case regarding iRacing. I have had my eye on the sim for quite a while, mostly because of several YouTubers like Jimmy Broadbent. Only after making the jump from consoles to PC I seriously thought about getting into iRacing, the relatively high costs kept me from getting started, however – until now. I noticed quickly: Especially in rookies, there is no need to spend more money than the subscription fee.

Getting Started

The download of the sim was completed quickly, but the roughly 30 gigabytes of updates took a while. Unlike other sims, iRacing relies less on in-game menus but rather on a dedicated launcher UI, where sim racers can register for races, set up their sim or customize their virtual driver and vehicle liveries.

Initially, this seems a bit overwhelming. However, the UI is relatively self-explanatory, and the same is true for the racing license: Newcomers start out with two license points for ovals and road courses, which are divided into dirt and paved surfaces respectively. This value is the safety rating for each class which can be increased rather quickly by driving clean races, which is important to make the jump into the next license class, which in turn gives you access to more series with different cars and tracks.

On Track

The necessary settings to get onto the virtual race track, such as button mappings, were quickly taken care of after starting a session. The first steps followed in a Formula Vee practice session at Tsukuba Circuit. This wingless mini-monoposto is not particularly fast – it is made for beginners, after all. And even for myself, who has years of sim racing experience, there was a bit of a learning curve – its magic third gear, for example, which works best for the car in most cases. Once you are in that gear, shifting is barely necessary, which is a good way for beginners to familiarize themselves with using a manual transmission.

In addition to the Formula Vee, I frequently stumbled upon Mazda MX-5 Cup sessions – another good vehicle on the first step at the start of your iRacing career: Tsukuba, Okayama and Oran Park were the first locations where I took to the grid.

Approaching the sim with prior knowledge and experience allows you to increase your license points to the point of qualifying for a D-License in no time. Despite several smaller collisions and off-road excursions it took me just five races to get out of rookies this way – while not even once finishing on the podium. It is not just speed that counts.

What I Learned
  • You can start your iRacing career perfectly fine with just the free content. In rookies, there are enough options to find your feet in the sim, and even for higher classes, there are cars like the Dallara DW-12 IndyCar.
  • Fixed Setups make sense, especially for beginner vehicles. I usually prefer some freedom in setups, but to get going, it is much nicer to be able to concentrate on your driving. There is still time to explore setups once you are used to the sim.
  • Despite the serious approach the sim takes compared to other multiplayer sims, there are drivers that are more at home in arcade games and who always see other drivers in the wrong in iRacing as well. My advice for newcomers: Do not let them get to you and just switch off the chat.
  • Show respect to your fellow competitors, leave enough space when battling for position and do not behave like you own the track – victory is not everything! A clean race without incidents is worth more than the top step on the podium that is the result of collisions.
About author
Yannik Haustein
Lifelong motorsport enthusiast and sim racing aficionado, walking racing history encyclopedia.

Sim racing editor, streamer and one half of the SimRacing Buddies podcast (warning, German!).

Heel & Toe Gang 4 life :D

Comments

If you're used to something like Assetto Corsa for example, it'll feel a little different because iRacing only models the torque at the steering rack and it doesn't add any additional artificial forces that many other sims add (usually to give a more "seat of pants" feeling, but it's not entirely realistic). It also sounds like you had the FFB too low for the car you were driving...in iRacing, you have to adjust FFB for each car individually. Best way I've found to do it (Set the FFB level on your CSL to 100 or the highest level you can handle):

1) Go to settings and make sure FFB level is labelled as "Max Force" and not "Strength". To change it, just click on the word Strength. It should change to Max Force and the slider values should be measured in Nm.
2) Jump in the car.
3) Press Alt + K. This brings up every overlay in the game so you can click and reposition them. Move the FPS/System/FFB box closer to the center of your screen, so you can keep an eye on the FFB meter while driving. Press Alt + K again when done.
4) Open the "Graphics Adjustments" Black Box and go down to FFB Max Force at the bottom. keep it there so you can adjust it while driving (I'm assuming you have Black Box controls mapped to the funkyswitch).
5) Drive a couple laps at decent speed and watch the FFB meter. Going through corners that meter should be yellow or orange and hitting at least 75%. Based on your description, it's probably much lower.
6) Adjust the FFB Max Force to a LOWER number to increase the FFB. If the FFB meter starts turning red in corners that means it's hitting 100% or higher; in that case set Max Force to a HIGHER number to decrease the FFB. It sounds weird but when you understand how it's implemented it'll make sense:

The Nm number is telling iRacing how much in-game torque at the steering rack should represent 100% FFB. So if it's set to 80Nm...you won't feel a big jolt in your wheel until something causes the steering column to move at 80 Nm of torque (like crashing into a wall ;))...so other forces like normal driving would feel very numb in comparison (usually around 20 to 30Nm in the hardest non-powersteering cars like F1/Indycar, and less in other cars with power-steering like the MX-5 or GT3 cars). It's actually a more realistic representation of forces at the wheel; which is why IRL drivers release the wheel just before a big hit...the wheel could easily break their fingers at that strength.

7) Once complete, move the FFB meter out of the way (Alt + K) and you're good to go for that car. Rinse and repeat for every new car.

Hope this helps!
I don't own IRacing, (but I'm interested).
I find people like you who help other people without waiting for feedback, it feels good to read good people like you, thank you very much.
 
I wonder, why there is still just one tyre compound, 60hz FFB and that strange retro graphic feel in the game which is under constant development for years, played and paid by thousands of simracers around the world?
 
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irenting.. the absolute worst business model of any business model in the world. The fact that that people will willingly throw their money to this company to rent their tracks and cars to use only while they're paying a monthly subscription fee gives adage to the phrase "there's a sucker born every minute".
It is the best business model from the point of view of the company, they make millions. It is terrible for us, players.

I dont hate iRacing, it is my 2nd favourite SIM. It is just a way to expensive for what it provides. And sometimes it is hard to justify spending 10x more on iRacing then on my favourite SIM.
 
Now, I've never tried iRacing myself - I've been tempted, but I never seem to have the spare time to dump into a thorough try-out that feels like it'd be needed to justify paying a subscription.

...but to all those who endlessly point out how bad the business model is, or how little one gets for the price of admission...
- surely... SURELY... if it was such a clear ripoff, there'd be a very obvious, glaring gap in the market, and we'd be swamped with far more competitive alternatives, and iRacing would promptly disappear overnight?

Isn't it possible that it continues to be popular and keep a regular subscriber base after all these years... because it offers something that no other sim offers? (And presumably, that something isn't an easy or cheap thing to offer, seeing as nobody else does)
I mean, people aren't idiots - as much as I love Assetto Corsa, clearly if it offered all that iRacing offers, for a single bargain price, then it would've been the end of iRacing already?

It's obvious that a lot of people want the unique combination of features that iRacing offers, and are willing to pay a recurring premium to get it.
Sure, offer the opinion that it doesn't suit your own tastes, but what is the point in constantly reasserting that it isn't worth the money it costs, when it clearly, unarguably *is* worth the money to a lot of people?
 
I respect iRacing for what it is. As far as online racing, unless you are in some racing league, there is really no comparison

My biggest issue with it is , that I'm not that dedicated to actual racing, I usually just prefer to drive cars on my own, or against AI , and sadly that's not what iRacing is for , at least not yet
 
... they make millions. ...
I'd really love to see the evidence for this oft repeated claim. As far as I have heard, they went belly up some years back and just barely managed to survive while the real millions to be made lies with smartphone games and micro transactions, neither of which feature in their business model. Just curious for some solid numbers.
 
I wonder, why there is still just one tyre compound, ...
if I am not mistaken, there is at least one car class where you can pick different compounds, I may be wrong though. I think it was rolled out this spring, but since i do not play all car classes, i'm not sure which one it is or whether there are many.
 
Premium
I respect iRacing for what it is. As far as online racing, unless you are in some racing league, there is really no comparison

My biggest issue with it is , that I'm not that dedicated to actual racing, I usually just prefer to drive cars on my own, or against AI , and sadly that's not what iRacing is for , at least not yet
Well for hotlapping many many many different cars (race or road) there's nothing better than AC imo.
However the AI in Iracing is probably the best atm. Only Raceroom comes close. Downside is that you still have to pay and that not all cars on their service have AI.
 
If you're used to something like Assetto Corsa for example, it'll feel a little different because iRacing only models the torque at the steering rack and it doesn't add any additional artificial forces that many other sims add (usually to give a more "seat of pants" feeling, but it's not entirely realistic). It also sounds like you had the FFB too low for the car you were driving...in iRacing, you have to adjust FFB for each car individually. Best way I've found to do it (Set the FFB level on your CSL to 100 or the highest level you can handle):

1) Go to settings and make sure FFB level is labelled as "Max Force" and not "Strength". To change it, just click on the word Strength. It should change to Max Force and the slider values should be measured in Nm.
2) Jump in the car.
3) Press Alt + K. This brings up every overlay in the game so you can click and reposition them. Move the FPS/System/FFB box closer to the center of your screen, so you can keep an eye on the FFB meter while driving. Press Alt + K again when done.
4) Open the "Graphics Adjustments" Black Box and go down to FFB Max Force at the bottom. keep it there so you can adjust it while driving (I'm assuming you have Black Box controls mapped to the funkyswitch).
5) Drive a couple laps at decent speed and watch the FFB meter. Going through corners that meter should be yellow or orange and hitting at least 75%. Based on your description, it's probably much lower.
6) Adjust the FFB Max Force to a LOWER number to increase the FFB. If the FFB meter starts turning red in corners that means it's hitting 100% or higher; in that case set Max Force to a HIGHER number to decrease the FFB. It sounds weird but when you understand how it's implemented it'll make sense:

The Nm number is telling iRacing how much in-game torque at the steering rack should represent 100% FFB. So if it's set to 80Nm...you won't feel a big jolt in your wheel until something causes the steering column to move at 80 Nm of torque (like crashing into a wall ;))...so other forces like normal driving would feel very numb in comparison (usually around 20 to 30Nm in the hardest non-powersteering cars like F1/Indycar, and less in other cars with power-steering like the MX-5 or GT3 cars). It's actually a more realistic representation of forces at the wheel; which is why IRL drivers release the wheel just before a big hit...the wheel could easily break their fingers at that strength.

7) Once complete, move the FFB meter out of the way (Alt + K) and you're good to go for that car. Rinse and repeat for every new car.

Hope this helps!
Thank you very much, will definitely try this process... What do you mean the blackbox mapped to the "funkyswitch"? Which funkyswitch?

It's a bit of a hassle though... to stay on-topic, it's these things, the amount of things the user has to figure out, instead of providing a good setup by default with a proper tuning guide, while still charging premium while other sims do better... that put me off and that's why I only bought the 1 year subscription in a very big promo.

For me right know the best all-round package is ACC and then rF2 (if they somehow improve their horrid UIs and loading times).
 
Great article @Yannik Haustein
If you need a hand, iRacing veterans are here to help ;)
I second this...Most people here tend to be quiet about iRacing because of the incessant bashing that it gets from the community, especially by those that think it's setup like every other sim and want everything for pennies or free. There are, as of this season, 91 different race series across four different disciplines (Road, Oval, Dirt Road and Dirt Oval). Most of those series run multiple official (a.k.a. ranked) online races running at 2 hour intervals (some run every hour and a few run as often as every 30 mins), all day every day, with a new venue every week for each series.

Here’s some of what iRacing offers for those 90+ series that most people don’t realise:
  • Your subscription provides servers for everyone to race...no matter how many people register to race at a given time. There will be a race for you and you'll be racing with similarly ranked people. So if over 300 people show up to race GT3 at 6pm today (it happens often for that series btw), they'll split everyone up into races based on iRating and, if possible, your geolocation...with a grid size of 28 cars each, that's at least 11 different races happening simultaneously at 6pm. If another 300 people show up at 8pm, same thing again. That's just 1 series out of 91. It does it seamlessly and flawlessly (I've yet to encounter a race that was cancelled because "server issues" and I've been a member for 4 years now). That alone takes up a lot of server bandwidth and maintenance to keep it running so smoothly.
  • Let's say you don't feel like racing and you'd like to practice instead: For EACH of those 91 series, there's at least 2 online practice rooms running 24 hours a day (and each of those tend to be on different continents to help with ping). If the existing practice servers fill up, a new one is created for you. Again, more server bandwidth to run all these practice rooms for 91 different race series.
  • Let's say you don't wanna drive at all and you wanna watch a race: Spectators are allowed to enter any race in progress, complete with a separate comm channel to chat with other spectators. Furthermore, you can drive on the track but as a ghost car (the actual competitors won't see or hear you) so you can gauge your progress against others without actually competing. Show me another sim that does that (again, seamlessly and the competitors don't see you).
  • Data from EVERY Race, quali, practice and time trial session, whether official or unofficial, is logged on their servers and can be accessed by any iRacing member during that season. That includes lap times, graphs and tables of position changes, incidents, irating and license gain/loss, championship points...everything. Furthermore they store all your results from the beginning of your account for you to access online (I just pulled up my first result from 4 years ago in rookies...I'm on a different computer now). The only thing they don't save online is the actual replay for obvious reasons. If you're in the session then of course you can save a replay locally.
  • Championships are run for each series and they split everyone into divisions (based on your performance in the previous season), so for goal oriented drivers you can attempt to be one of the best in your current division to move up the ranks, or if you're alien enough, try racing against the best to win the championship. I think of it essentially as a career progression mode without the crappy fictional stories like F1 titles or the half-assed career mode attempts in AC/ACC or no attempts at all in other sims.
  • Human stewards to evaluate any protests from any of the series. Stuff you only get in league races you have here for all series (essentially it's like 91 leagues in one).

There's probably a few more things that I'm forgetting, but the point is you're not paying monthly for an offline hotlap simulator (you can do that do if you want)...the thing is built to have thousands of people race each other online with no issues, cleaner races in most cases, and race as much as you want year round, with tons of support systems in place. If you drive occasionally or just hate online racing then it isn't for you. But for those who love racing nearly every day against strong competitors, no other sim comes remotely close to what they offer.

Side note: paying monthly btw isn't the smart way; buy a 1 or 2 year plan during the Black Friday sale (On now until Dec 4) and save 25% (50% if you're new). That comes up to, at worst, less than $7 USD/month, basically less than Netflix and most other streaming services...and better entertainment value IMO.
 
Thank you very much, will definitely try this process... What do you mean the blackbox mapped to the "funkyswitch"? Which funkyswitch?

It's a bit of a hassle though... to stay on-topic, it's these things, the amount of things the user has to figure out, instead of providing a good setup by default with a proper tuning guide, while still charging premium while other sims do better... that put me off and that's why I only bought the 1 year subscription in a very big promo.

For me right know the best all-round package is ACC and then rF2 (if they somehow improve their horrid UIs and loading times).

FunkySwitch: the 7 way encoder switch available on every Fanatec steering wheel. I figured since you have a CSL you'd have heard about those.

For your other issues and the charging "premium" see the reasons above as to why it's not just exactly the same as every other sim with a higher price tag. Also, this method of FFB calibration is more customizable; some people might want the FFB to clip at lower or higher levels, or they might want no clipping at all, depending on preference.
 
if I am not mistaken, there is at least one car class where you can pick different compounds, I may be wrong though. I think it was rolled out this spring, but since i do not play all car classes, i'm not sure which one it is or whether there are many.

Yep, the top level open wheel cars (McLaren MP4-30 F1 car and the iR-01) have soft medium and hard compounds.

Edit: Also the 2021 Mercedes F1 car (W12) is coming to iRacing next season (aka mid December) so that should also have multiple compounds.
 
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I purchased a year, but have barely touched it because the feeling in my CSL Elite is so numb, like it has 0 feedback unless I stamp myself into a wall... I've followed the guidelines, tried the recommended settings on Fanatec Forums and a few others, they are all still the same...

Anyone have some recommendations? Or ideas on what to look for?
irFFB. Makes a massive difference in my opinion.
 
Premium
I second this...Most people here tend to be quiet about iRacing because of the incessant bashing that it gets from the community, especially by those that think it's setup like every other sim and want everything for pennies or free. There are, as of this season, 91 different race series across four different disciplines (Road, Oval, Dirt Road and Dirt Oval). Most of those series run multiple official (a.k.a. ranked) online races running at 2 hour intervals (some run every hour and a few run as often as every 30 mins), all day every day, with a new venue every week for each series.

Here’s some of what iRacing offers for those 90+ series that most people don’t realise:
  • Your subscription provides servers for everyone to race...no matter how many people register to race at a given time. There will be a race for you and you'll be racing with similarly ranked people. So if over 300 people show up to race GT3 at 6pm today (it happens often for that series btw), they'll split everyone up into races based on iRating and, if possible, your geolocation...with a grid size of 28 cars each, that's at least 11 different races happening simultaneously at 6pm. If another 300 people show up at 8pm, same thing again. That's just 1 series out of 91. It does it seamlessly and flawlessly (I've yet to encounter a race that was cancelled because "server issues" and I've been a member for 4 years now). That alone takes up a lot of server bandwidth and maintenance to keep it running so smoothly.
  • Let's say you don't feel like racing and you'd like to practice instead: For EACH of those 91 series, there's at least 2 online practice rooms running 24 hours a day (and each of those tend to be on different continents to help with ping). If the existing practice servers fill up, a new one is created for you. Again, more server bandwidth to run all these practice rooms for 91 different race series.
  • Let's say you don't wanna drive at all and you wanna watch a race: Spectators are allowed to enter any race in progress, complete with a separate comm channel to chat with other spectators. Furthermore, you can drive on the track but as a ghost car (the actual competitors won't see or hear you) so you can gauge your progress against others without actually competing. Show me another sim that does that (again, seamlessly and the competitors don't see you).
  • Data from EVERY Race, quali, practice and time trial session, whether official or unofficial, is logged on their servers and can be accessed by any iRacing member during that season. That includes lap times, graphs and tables of position changes, incidents, irating and license gain/loss, championship points...everything. Furthermore they store all your results from the beginning of your account for you to access online (I just pulled up my first result from 4 years ago in rookies...I'm on a different computer now). The only thing they don't save online is the actual replay for obvious reasons. If you're in the session then of course you can save a replay locally.
  • Championships are run for each series and they split everyone into divisions (based on your performance in the previous season), so for goal oriented drivers you can attempt to be one of the best in your current division to move up the ranks, or if you're alien enough, try racing against the best to win the championship. I think of it essentially as a career progression mode without the crappy fictional stories like F1 titles or the half-assed career mode attempts in AC/ACC or no attempts at all in other sims.
  • Human stewards to evaluate any protests from any of the series. Stuff you only get in league races you have here for all series (essentially it's like 91 leagues in one).

There's probably a few more things that I'm forgetting, but the point is you're not paying monthly for an offline hotlap simulator (you can do that do if you want)...the thing is built to have thousands of people race each other online with no issues, cleaner races in most cases, and race as much as you want year round, with tons of support systems in place. If you drive occasionally or just hate online racing then it isn't for you. But for those who love racing nearly every day against strong competitors, no other sim comes remotely close to what they offer.

Side note: paying monthly btw isn't the smart way; buy a 1 or 2 year plan during the Black Friday sale (On now until Dec 4) and save 25% (50% if you're new). That comes up to, at worst, less than $7 USD/month, basically less than Netflix and most other streaming services...and better entertainment value IMO.

You covered a lot there, I just wanted to add that if people are looking for league formats, racing against people you get to know etc then iracing has more leagues run on that platform than anything else.

It's a lot easier to run a league there than managing your own servers and the league directory is massive.
 
FunkySwitch: the 7 way encoder switch available on every Fanatec steering wheel. I figured since you have a CSL you'd have heard about those.

For your other issues and the charging "premium" see the reasons above as to why it's not just exactly the same as every other sim with a higher price tag. Also, this method of FFB calibration is more customizable; some people might want the FFB to clip at lower or higher levels, or they might want no clipping at all, depending on preference.
Thanks!
I just didn't knew it wall called like that and got thrown off by the 7-Way... in the stock wheel rim for the CSL, it's just 5 way as it doesnt rotate. Still will find a way to map something to dial de ffb. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully I'll get properly hooked to the experience.
 
Hmm didnt know there was free content. Might check it out. Cheers.
if you just want to "check it out" it might be a good idea to do a one month sub, shouldn't be difficult to find out how to do that. That should be by far the cheapest way. The "free content" comprises the original free content (handful of cars and tracks each) and all the content that has been replaced by newer versions (as in: at least two former Indy cars or an older version of the Daytona track) or content that has already aged a little, like the Jetta TDi car.
 

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