Wheel settings after update

Peter

who cares
All the old control sets are terminated with the update.

The advised settings are 900° and 30 wheel lock, but we tested and used default wheel driver settings without damper and spring.

For example Thrustmaster T500 60%/100%/100%/0%/0% and TX 75%/100%/100%/0%/0%.

Logitech uses 270° default, so the wheel lock is set to 10 in game.
Feel free to change that to 900°/30.

All wheels that have 900° should use this from now on as a default setting.

The target for the team is to have an automatic rotation/lock for all wheels/cars in the future.
 
I don't have a TX, nor am I fully happy with the FFB since the last update, but a few pointers that might help you in the right direction;
Get rid of all canned effects at the bottom, engine and shift vibration, leave a little kerb vibration if you wish but its canned.
I reduce Steering Rack from 100% to 0%
Play around with lateral forces, I found I had to lower them from stock else the wheel was just waaaay too heavy.
 
I don't have a TX, nor am I fully happy with the FFB since the last update, but a few pointers that might help you in the right direction;
Get rid of all canned effects at the bottom, engine and shift vibration, leave a little kerb vibration if you wish but its canned.
I reduce Steering Rack from 100% to 0%
Play around with lateral forces, I found I had to lower them from stock else the wheel was just waaaay too heavy.

It's also recommended to turn the damping/friction/etc. settings to zero as well.

A lot of this is personal preference, but on my T300 I go with all the above settings (and the ones Kjell mentioned) at 0, steering rack at 0 (I honestly feel virtually no difference between 100 and 0 on this one). I turn the lateral forces up to 200 because I like a little weight in the turns and then turn the FFB force down to keep it from being too heavy (I think mine's around 70), FFB Steering Effect (or whatever the second one is called) I have around 110-120. I find having the vertical force lower than the lateral force produces a more pleasing feeling, lateral is usually around 100-150. If you have a strong centering force, turning the lateral down will lessen it, but if you go too low you'll start to lose feeling from the road/bumps/kerbs.

Can't guarantee you'll like those settings, but after dozens and dozens of hours of faffing about with the FFB settings those are the conclusions I've come up with. The two important ones are vertical and lateral. If you're wheel is too light in the turns, increase the lateral, and if it's too heavy in the turns you can decrease the lateral. If you have too much of a centering force you can lessen the vertical, if you're not feeling enough from the road/bumps/kerbs you can increase the vertical.

(Note: I have not tried the new physics cars yet so I'm not sure if this is all still accurate)
 
What about understeer? Steering force intensity, Vertical and lateral these seem to be the main ones. I had to turn the lateral down from 200 to 120 as you need arms like popeye lol.

I think understeer is a personal preference thing, I like it low around 35-40. Steering Force Intensity I have around 120-130, I think it controls how strong the effects of bumps, undulations, etc. are.
 
Alright so I sat down and did some more running tonight, it's not perfect by any means but it's much more to my liking, so...

Disclaimer: I am not claiming these are "THE FFB settings" for CSW v2, they are merely a happy median that I have found after spending a few hours tweaking and testing, and I'm sure it's possible to improve on these settings. My testing have been highly unscientific and purely subjective. They fit me, my driving style, my preference in cars and my expectations from FFB. You may like them or hate them, I put them here for free ;)
I prefer my FFB quite loose, I don't want to fight the wheel on straights or when just cornering, I find it also offers me much faster response when the back steps out. I might be clipping with these settings, don't know for sure. I do occasionally feel some yanks in the wheel, dunno if this is due to bumps or spikes in FFB, perhaps a physics related shift effect which is still present even if the canned shift effect is set to 0%. Going off road will also make the wheel yank and fight you a lot, but I tweak my FFB for ontrack driving not offtrack :p
All testing and tweaking was done with the GTR3 SLS AMG on Zandvoort using the BMW GT2 rim, then tested with other cars and tracks. I have not tested with the formula rim.

Some thoughts about the different settings and how I felt they affected FFB:
Understeer: I could not find that this did much positive to the FFB at all, on the contrary I felt that if I added too much of this I lost detail and the FFB went a bit limp.
Vertical Load: This gave me sensation of weight transfer and road feel, made a big difference in feeling bumps and kerbs (without the canned kerb effect further down). Running with high Vertical and no Lateral gave me a loose wheel but with enough information to feel what the car is doing beneath me.
Lateral Load: This adds quite a bit of weight to the wheel, I think this adds a fair bit of feel from loss of traction too. If I run high Lateral and no Vertical I get a very heavy wheel with enough information to feel what the car is doing beneath me.
Vertical and Lateral Load: So basically you want a little bit of both, as they both give good info on whats happening with the car, it's about finding a balance between these two that fits your expectations from the FFB.
Steering Rack: To me adding this setting (aka going above 0%) just makes steering feel less connected, so I run it at 0%.
Smoothing: I add a wee bit of smoothing just to take the edge out of the worst kerbs, I don't like it when my entire desk is shaking and waking up both family, neighbors and Steve Jobs.
Drift (on wheel): I add a bit of drift on cars that have a tendency to step out quickly, like the Gr 5 cars, just to make it easier to catch.

My settings:
These settings feel best with the newly updated cars (GTR3 class for instance), but are passable on older cars as well, if they feel floaty or weak on feedback try adding in some more Lateral Force (and perhaps removing some Vertical if you feel it's clipping).

On wheel:
Sen:
Aut
FF: 100
Sho: 100
Abs: 085
Lin: Off
Dea: Off
Dri: 0-5 (depending on car)
For: 100
Spr: Off
dPr: Off

Ingame:
FFB Intensity:
75%
Smoothing: 5%
Damper, Spring and Friction: 0%
Steering Force Intensity: 100%
Understeer: 20%
Vertical Load: 200%
Lateral Load: 50%
Steering Rack: 0%
All canned vibrations and shift effects: 0%

So there you have it, hope it helps anyone, oh and if your FFB is floaty then pCars -> that way ;)
 
Yeah, so, disregard anything and everything I said. I had to send my T300 back to Thrustmaster for repairs and I think my it's been jacked up for quite some time, if not from the get-go. I just got it back and this feels so much better than what I'm used to, and I've had to cut the FFB strength waaaaaay back from what it was because it was fecking heavy!! I've only tried R3E so far but I cut the FFB from 90 to 65 as well as cutting my vert/lat forces in half. About to have a go with AC now.
 
I did wonder about your vertical because 200 was hard work for me. Ffb on 70 with vertical on 140 the rest similar to Kjell. Feels quite decent but only tried adac 14
The 320mm BMW rim at 2,2 kg dampens the force quite a bit. If you're running a T300, which has a 280mm rim, I can completely understand that the vertical setting is way too high and too strong.
I'm gonna be reconsidering my settings, I don't mind having separate settings for the BMW and Formula rim as the game detects each rim and swaps profile automatically, but I'd think there should be something more in between these settings.
Yesterday when playing with the Formula rim running the ADAC competition in the MP4-12C I turned vertical way down (to 100 iirc) plus pulled down on FFB strength on the wheel to 80, now the FFB was much weaker, but I could still tell what the car was doing.
Back when I finally got rF2 FFB sorted my initial thoughts where how light the FFB was, but still full of detail and extremely drivable (using official ISI content, the Brabham BT20), and this is what I'm trying to aim at with my FFB in R3E now.
 
The 320mm BMW rim at 2,2 kg dampens the force quite a bit. If you're running a T300, which has a 280mm rim, I can completely understand that the vertical setting is way too high and too strong.
I'm gonna be reconsidering my settings, I don't mind having separate settings for the BMW and Formula rim as the game detects each rim and swaps profile automatically, but I'd think there should be something more in between these settings.
Yesterday when playing with the Formula rim running the ADAC competition in the MP4-12C I turned vertical way down (to 100 iirc) plus pulled down on FFB strength on the wheel to 80, now the FFB was much weaker, but I could still tell what the car was doing.
Back when I finally got rF2 FFB sorted my initial thoughts where how light the FFB was, but still full of detail and extremely drivable (using official ISI content, the Brabham BT20), and this is what I'm trying to aim at with my FFB in R3E now.
Yeah mine is the TX. Are the ADAC 2014 using the new physics? I'm not a regular with this sim so far so I'm not sure what has been done. I read the changelog but then others have mentioned different things. My ffb is defo getting better each night.
 
Copy paste from this thread;

Aquila CR 1 Sports GT
  • Physics update, now mounted with a 4.0L V8 BMW M60 engine
Silhouette Class
  • Physics update, now have actual Silhouette specs
  • Canhard R51: 3.5L V6 normally aspirated (New sound!)
  • Canhard R52: 2.5L Inline-5 Turbo charged
  • Cougar C14-1: 1.8L Inline-4 Turbo charged
  • Cougar C14-2: 3.0L V6 Turbo charged

BMW M1 Procar
  • Massive physics update
GTR3 Class:
  • Massive physics update
 
Copy paste from this thread;

Aquila CR 1 Sports GT
  • Physics update, now mounted with a 4.0L V8 BMW M60 engine
Silhouette Class
  • Physics update, now have actual Silhouette specs
  • Canhard R51: 3.5L V6 normally aspirated (New sound!)
  • Canhard R52: 2.5L Inline-5 Turbo charged
  • Cougar C14-1: 1.8L Inline-4 Turbo charged
  • Cougar C14-2: 3.0L V6 Turbo charged

BMW M1 Procar
  • Massive physics update
GTR3 Class:
  • Massive physics update
GTR3 class so that will cover ADAC yes?
 
Nope, GTR3 is a seperate class ingame;
gtr3.png
 
It IS a GT3 spec car, but according to Sector 3 the ADAC GT3s and the GTR3 GT3s are not identical and have not been balanced against eachother (yet at least).
Someone more knowledgable on the GT3 spec and how the different series (ADAC, Blancpain etc) use these and if there are differences in regulations perhaps can shed some light on this (off topic) subject?
 

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