Seeking Advice for First Build of a Sim Racing Rig

[stigs2cousin]

You could get along with a keyboard until you decide what button box you want/need.
But a racing rig completely without one is capped unnessecarily as you need it to set up your racing game and if want to do anything else besides racing ( like asking a quick question on the forum )

A good first step could be a stream deck, it also can make "starting up the car" easier with multi actions:

Start Simucube,
start Joy2Key
start content manager asf all with one button press.

You can also programm it for the car controls like ABS TC Brake Bias .

I have one integrated into my cock pit build to supplement the buttons, dials and levers.

Be carefull which seat you buy, it will greatly influence the joy ( or dispair) on your rig.
If you can buy one after you have "tested" it by reading the Sunday Paper in it you know it long time compatible with you.

Also shipping on this things is quite expensive.

Probably you could also "finger" racing/tuning steering wheels in this shop do decide which diameter and girth is right for you.

( Why did you hide that you have such a great resource to you disposal??)

Dashboards are nice, but in the most part unnecessary bling.
All they can do an overlay can do the same way but much cheaper.
(that should be number 12 on yout tobuy list.)
(And yes, a Grid DDU5 is presiding behind my steering wheel , didn´t need it but wanted it)

 

[Elaphe]

Some manufactures sell these two little button boxes that fit in the holes of the P1X front mount plate.

ReaperWare P1-X Dash pods/USB Button box for P1-X Front mount

A multifunction button and rotary encoder attachment for your P1-X Front wheel base mount. Attaches directly and integrates perfectly to your front wheel mount of your P1-X rig.

www.reaperware.co.uk

 

[d69morpwr]

I would definitely look up getting the right seating position too. There are many good posts on this and it makes a huge difference in comfort and control.

 

[acnomad]

( Why did you hide that you have such a great resource to you disposal??)

I have purchased helmets from them in the past. Their prices are high, but like shoes, trying them on before purchase is much better than the alternatives. I didn’t learn much by sitting in a few different seats, as without a Sunday paper, I didn’t have time to feel uncomfortable in any of them.

Some manufactures sell these two little button boxes that fit in the holes of the P1X front mount plate.

I came across this product in my searches.. Looks nice on your rig.

I would definitely look up getting the right seating position too.

Great advice. I will indeed spend enough time to get this right.

 

[d69morpwr]

I have purchased helmets from them in the past. Their prices are high, but like shoes, trying them on before purchase is much better than the alternatives. I didn’t learn much by sitting in a few different seats, as without a Sunday paper, I didn’t have time to feel uncomfortable in any of them.

I came across this product in my searches.. Looks nice on your rig.

Great advice. I will indeed spend enough time to get this right.

Its been a while since i bought mine but check how the seats are sized. From what i remember it helped a lot. You dont want it too wide where you float around in it but also not so tight its uncomfortable especially around your shoulders. If you ever decide to add motion a comfortable seat that fits right gets really important. Plus you dont want to buy two like many of us have.

 

[stigs2cousin]

For a general overview we could start here.

The most important thing would be to get vertical profiles for the wheel base mount into the correct position as the distance to seat and pedal deck can be adjusted way more easily.
Both slide in the rails of the profile so they can be adjusted by loosening some bolts.

I personally like the steering wheel closer than in the sketch, the top of the wheel is two fingers behind my wrist.
ilso find it important that the wheels axle points to your shoulder joints, that way the distance shoulders to the hands on the wheel doesn´t change when turning it.

After some driving (and growing pains) you will feel which adjustments will make it better for the long term.

 

[Ruttman98]

Thanks for all the thoughtful advice to get me to this point. Here is what I have ordered; expecting delivery if all components in time to be up an running in two weeks:

1. P1X Pro + freestanding triple monitor support
2. Heusinkveld Sprint 3-pedal set + baseplate/heelrest
3. SimuCube 2 Pro
4. VNM Shifter
5. (Still deciding on monitors)
6. (No tactile feedback devices until later)
7. Prebuilt PC with 4080 graphics
8. (Still deciding on button box)
9. (Still deciding on seat)

Any advice to help me settle on 5, 8, 9?

2. You should not need the baseplate to mount the pedals on the P1X Pro pedal plate. A heel rest is a great addition, however. Not sure what Sim-Lab offers, but other rig suppliers do. I will look into it if you like.

3. I am envious! Simucube 2 Pro is an excellent wheelbase, second only to the Ultimate. You will need to adapt the wheel of your choice using either a Simucube mounting option or any number of other excellent quick releases.

4. VNM shifter looks excellent--great choice again.

9. Check eBay, RacingJunk.com, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist for a deal on expired seats in virtually new condition--typically 1/2 off MSRP. You are close to many racing venues and a great number of racecars and fabricators.

 

[acnomad]

The most important thing would be to get vertical profiles for the wheel base mount into the correct position as the distance to seat and pedal deck can be adjusted way more easily.

By this, I think you mean the height and angle of the steering wheel and seat. Is that right?

If so, is there a preferred mechanism to set the recline of a bucket-style seat?

 

[acnomad]

A heel rest is a great addition

Yes, this was the main reason for adding the option, which appears to be available only with the base plate.

You will need to adapt the wheel of your choice using either a Simucube mounting option or any number of other excellent quick releases.

From the SC2 manual that I downloaded, I am led to believe that a quick release (with spacer) is included. Do I need to be concerned about the SC2 hardware mounting pattern being compatible with wheels from other sources? Or is there some sort of standard?

Check eBay, RacingJunk.com, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist for a deal on expired seats

Thanks for this suggestion. I did look extensively for used and expired seats. Nothing notable is coming up just now. I will start with a NRG seat (not too expensive) and see how it goes.

 

[Elaphe]

By this, I think you mean the height and angle of the steering wheel and seat. Is that right?

If so, is there a preferred mechanism to set the recline of a bucket-style seat?

Side mount brackets have different holes. Depeding on what you choose your seat will be higher, lower, more reclined or more upright.

 

[stigs2cousin]

The SC2 quick release is a clamp on the motor axle on the one side and the normal 70mm PCD on the other so most aftermarket wheels will fit without hassle.

Beware of two things:
there are some (mostly formula and cart) wheels that have PCD 50mm
and check if the Qr is uncluded in the SC2 offer.
It was when I bought mine 3years ago but I heard they changed that.

For the uprights the distance to seat mount/ pedal deck is the most important measure as it would be tedious to correct that without loosening most parts and probably scratch a lot of profiles in the process.
Wheel distance fine tuning and wheel height are easier as you need only the for bolts of the wheel mounting bracket. With the wheel base on its heavy though, handle with care, second pair of hands recommended.

With the usual L-shape seat brackets you set distance by sliding them in the profil rails, and height/recline by choosing the mounting holes.
It will become clear when you have them in hands.

 

[d69morpwr]

Yes trying to adjust the wheel mount with a Simucube base on it is almost impossible by yourself. Ive got a Ultimate and its heavy when hanging off the mount.

You might want to look at the floor for the P1X too. Not necessary but its a quality of life thing. Much better without the big hole there between the seat and the pedals.

 

[Wmacky]

Excellent!

Just started reading this thread and was afraid you would make some bad decisions before I got to the end. You have not. You almost went down a few bad paths but all was saved. You have purchaesd the correct, rig, wheelbase, and pedals. The shifter is fine for now considering the lack of manual car choices. That seat is the one I got and is just fine for even a TOTL rig. That seat is also great for your future tactile needs. I can see that you are serious, and will NOT be able to avoid going down the rabbit hole. It is important that you not waste money on the wrong items, and limit future upgrade without big redo's . So far all your choices are dead on. Good job! Feel free to PM me and can give suggestions on Tactile and more. There is a way to start small, and add to it without any waste.

BTW Here's Mine The Monitor is for when VR is not used.

 

[Elaphe]

Yes trying to adjust the wheel mount with a Simucube base on it is almost impossible by yourself. Ive got a Ultimate and its heavy when hanging off the mount.

You might want to look at the floor for the P1X too. Not necessary but its a quality of life thing. Much better without the big hole there between the seat and the pedals.

I agree. I don't know why many people ignore the benefits of having a floor on their rigs. I put there all the amps, the power strip, the usb hub, all the cables, etc.

acnomad, you forgot to add something to your shopping list: a good pair or racing gloves. No matter what steering wheel you choose, you will have better grip with gloves (especially with the power of a direct drive base) and your rim will last longer like new. My favorites (after trying many) are karting gloves with external seams and silicon inserts on the palms (this is essential for leather rims if you want grip). Racing shoes are also interesting but in my opinion not a must.

 

[Ruttman98]

The SC2 quick release is a clamp on the motor axle on the one side and the normal 70mm PCD on the other so most aftermarket wheels will fit without hassle.

Beware of two things:
there are some (mostly formula and cart) wheels that have PCD 50mm
and check if the Qr is uncluded in the SC2 offer.
It was when I bought mine 3years ago but I heard they changed that.

Carsten is correct.

 

[d69morpwr]

I agree on the racing shoes not being a must in the beginning. But once you switch to any good pedal set i dont see how you can avoid it if you use any kind of realistic pedal pressure. Unless you want foot pain.

 

[Ruttman98]

I agree on the racing shoes not being a must in the beginning. But once you switch to any good pedal set i dont see how you can avoid it if you use any kind of realistic pedal pressure. Unless you want foot pain.

Having a dedicated set of racing shoes has a benefit of limiting superficial wear on the pedals as you are not grinding outside grit from your soles on the faces and base plate. I would recommend getting a new pair of the same shoes the OP uses in their track car unless they take precautions to keep their 1:1 driving pair free of debris.

 

[Ruttman98]

I agree 100% RE: racing gloves for sim racing comfort, control, and wheel longevity--even a bit of immersion when "suiting up."

There are many threads (pardon the pun) here on RD about gloves people use and recommend. You can spend $100s on Nomex gauntlet style "hand shoes," less on non-flame retardant big brand karting gloves, mechanics' style gloves, mountain biking gloves, etc. Search in unlikely places online--I bought Alpinestars karting gloves quite reasonably on closeout from Speedway Motors, but sizing is critical.

Consider your use case--if your hands sweat excessively, classic open back driving gloves or otherwise ventilated gloves might be an option. Some people use open finger tip gloves to help with in-car and in-game adjustments. Some brand names offer increased tactile sensitivity at the possible expense of decreased longevity if used frequently.

 

[acnomad]

I now understand a bit better how the steering wheel attaches to the wheelbase via quick release. And it appears that my SC2 is going to arrive with only the motor side of the QR, as two of you noted - for which I am very grateful.

So it looks I will have to obtain the wheel side QR (but it's not in stock right now) or simply not use the dovetail that is included with the wheelbase. The material I downloaded from Simcube shows the dovetail attaches to the motor with 3 bolts. Does anyone know if these are also on a 70mm diameter like many steering wheels seem to be? And is it reasonable to attach the steering wheel directly to the motor, or are spacers needed?

 

[d69morpwr]

I now understand a bit better how the steering wheel attaches to the wheelbase via quick release. And it appears that my SC2 is going to arrive with only the motor side of the QR, as two of you noted - for which I am very grateful.

So it looks I will have to obtain the wheel side QR (but it's not in stock right now) or simply not use the dovetail that is included with the wheelbase. The material I downloaded from Simcube shows the dovetail attaches to the motor with 3 bolts. Does anyone know if these are also on a 70mm diameter like many steering wheels seem to be? And is it reasonable to attach the steering wheel directly to the motor, or are spacers needed?

View attachment 717275

Have you checked around usually the wheel manufacturers have them. Id stick with that if you can its simple and works great. You may want to order a short extension from one of them also so you have it. They dont recommend the real long ones but the shorter ones are fine.