Franks Rig Report

Dear All,

Welcome to my rig report. After posting my rig in the "Show us your Rig / Cockpit" thread, I was encouraged to start a separate rig report.

Although it feels a little bit overly ambitious, I'm following the same structure as Peter Winkler's Rig Report. I'm going to keep track of the changes I'm making to the current state of the rig, The introduction will tell the story of the rig up to its current state.

Index
01 - Introduction
02 - Rig components
03 - Wheels
04 - Triple Monitor Mount for Motion Rigs
 
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Hi, I'm Frank (46) from the Netherlands. I can't remember the correct year again, maybe '96, but I remember the store and the moment. This store had a Thrustmaster T2 on display hooked up to a PC running Grand Prix II. I grabbed the wheel and looked at the graphics, and I was sold! As a teenager, I scraped all my money to get my hands on these beauties. I skipped school for as long as I could. I was hooked! Many titles followed. TOCA, TOCA 2, and Colin McRae Rally. Even Need for Speed was occasionally loaded. Once I got a driver's license, actual driving mostly replaced my hours behind the PC wheel. I discovered the Nurburgring in the Eiffel and spent many hours there. Eventually, I organized special track days (FD-Driftdays) on old airbases and test tracks like ATP-Papenburg in Germany. Nothing beats balancing the car at its limits, feeling the car through the seat of your pants.

But life happens. Kids are starting to appear, and 20 years later, after you bought a T2, you're finding yourself back behind a PlayStation with a Logitech G29 on a Wheelstand Pro. But today's world offers so much more than just a wheel and an arcade-type experience. So my quest started around the same time Fanatec and Simcube were about to release their new direct drive wheel. I stopped looking at belt-driven solutions and chose the Simucube 2 pro. The "problem" is that when you opt for a direct drive, you are pushed toward a sturdy sim rig solution. Ah! And that's the moment when I discovered how deep this rabbit hole goes. Youtube and racedepartment.com helped me find the right components. As base for the sim rig, the Simlab P1-X, Speed 1 seat, Heusinkveld Sprint pedals, Ascher Racing F28 SC wheel and a 49" screen (Samsung C49RG90). Quite an excellent starting point to begin exploring what modern race titles have to offer. My main goal is to hot-lap the Nurburgring.

01-Simrig-v1.jpg


The primary inputs (wheel and pedals) give you a lot of clues about what's going on with the car, but it still doesn't allow you to drive the sim car through the seat of my pants. And that theme continues throughout my sim racing rig build process. I'm searching for that level of immersion, using as many senses as possible.

Vision
So the next easy step for immersion was to get started with VR. I got the Valve Index VR. When it works, it is nice. But returned to the 49" after countless errors. VR is so immersive that it gives you mild heart attacks when driving 300 KM/h, and your headset keeps on blacking out. EMI? Shitty cables? Bad base stations? Who knows? The support of Valve was so bad that I didn't want to try another one from them. I soon moved to triple screens (Samsung Odyssey G7 LC32G75T), but I couldn't let go of the VR experience, so I got an HP Reverb G2. Fantastic set. Highly immersive, but I'm an extreme stickler for details, and the sweet spot is too narrow for my behavior. My heads tend to remain as static as possible, and I scan the road with my eyes. As a result, I look around the small sweet spot of the G2. But as much as I like the triple screens and the setup I've created, which I'll post about, the VR experience is something else. One of my best friends and colleague happened to work with Varjo. So I knew about the quality that they offered to professional organizations. Once I heard that they would create a device for the customer with a subscription contract, I started contemplating getting one. Mid-March, after getting some feedback from @RCHeliguy and having a quick conversation with @HoiHman, I pulled the trigger. As the Varjo headset uses external tracking, I need to find the optimal placement for the base stations to track the motion while still being able to use the triple screens. Sometimes I don't want to race in VR, or I want to take a guest driver through the journey of the different layers of immersions.

02-massivelego.JPG


Motion-platform
In 2021 I gave myself a nice birthday present in a PT-actuator Motion Platform. 5DOF. Traction loss + Surge. It's an amazing piece of kit, quite challenging to set up as the documentation is slim to non-existing. But Barry's Sim Racing Garage review videos help out a lot. As the motion rig comes in black. I swapped out the P1-X bit for a black one (Stickler for details). The motion rig provides another level of immersion. Still, it introduces immense complexity at the control and electronics layers. Sim Racing Studio is the defacto software platform to engage your motion platform. Today, you can get started easily with built-in functionality like "Intellitune" and community-generated motion profiles. But you have to understand what each function does and how it affects your motion rig. Your 911 RSR can feel like the lunar rover if you tune it wrong. But this is the fun part of having a motion rig. The most challenging part is the EMI complications that a motion platform brings. EMI typically results in a disconnect in the wheel (exciting experience) or any other USB device that is less interesting, still mildly annoying. To solve it once and for all, I plan to re-cable the rig, replace components, and adjust the control rack. I hope to add an extensive post to this rig report.

03-Simrig-v2.jpg


Tactile feedback
Although I haven't posted much on RD, I'm a long-time lurker. And one thread you can hardly miss is the "Tactile Immersion" started and maintained by @Mr Latte. I followed the recommendations and acquired the bits and pieces, even the beta Racebass springs. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I have not been able to install all the tactile equipment, but this will happen soon.
 
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Current setup:

Sim Sig + Motion platform

  • Simlabs P1-X
  • PT-Actuator Platform 4 Actuators + TL + Surge
  • Sparco Pro ADV QRT FIA seat
Primary Inputs
  • Simucube 2 Pro
  • Heusinkveld Sprint pedals
  • Simworx Supercar Sequential Shifter
  • Simcoaches P1 Pro Handbrake
05-Heusinkveld-v1.jpg


Monitor system
  • Triple Samsung Odyssey G7 LC32G75T
  • Sim Lab Vario Vesa Adapter kit
  • Sim Lab XERO-PLAY™ Triple Pivot Adapters Set
06-Triples.jpg


Wheels
  • Original 991.1 and 991.2 GT3 Cup Steering Wheel - 320 mm
  • Custom made Porsche GT3 Cup Button Box
  • Simline Button Plate GT3 Cup Connection System: SC2 Wireless
  • Pololo Instruments Dash Replica 5"
  • Ascher Racing SC28
  • Levente Zari Porsche 911 RSR wheel
07-wheels.jpg


Tactile feedback platform
  • 2 x Behringer NX3000d
  • 2 x Behringer NX1000d
  • 2x BK LFE
  • 2 x TST329
  • 1 x TXT209
  • 6 x exciters, Dayton DAEX32EP-4
  • Creative Sound Blaster X3
  • Sim3d Pedal Rumble Motor Kit
08-Sim3d.jpg


Gaming PC
  • Intel i9-9900K
  • Gigabyte Z390 AORUS ULTRA
  • G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB DDR4 3200MHz
  • Intel 660p 1TB (x2)
  • Asus24GB D6X RTX 3090 TUF GAMING OC
  • Corsair HX1200 power supply unit 1200 W
 
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Wheels
As a Porsche fan, I use my sim rig primarily to drive a 911 RSR or GT3 Cup car, preferably around the Nordschleife. I started out with the Asher Racing SC28 wheel, primarily as it provided wireless integration with the Simucube 2 wheelbase.

09-Ascher.JPG


But the Ascher wheel felt too wide for me, and it just didn't look like a Porsche wheel I wanted to switch after a while. So I contacted a Dutch sim racer who creates button boxes and asked him to create a GT3 Cup button box. I bought the genuine Porsche steering wheel used in the cup cars, and the result was fantastic.

10-GT3.jpg


@HoiHman man tipped me a while ago that someone was selling his Levante Zari RSR wheel, and I gladly took it off his hands. Sometimes this wheel is connected to the rig instead of the GT3 wheel.

11-RSR.jpg


Although I have an RSR wheel, the GT3 wheel is on the rig most of the time. I love the wheel, but the button box introduces a USB connection. Due to the EMI challenges in my rig, I'm looking to reduce the overall number of USB connections. One of these is replacing the custom-made GT3 button box with a Simline Button Plate GT3 Cup with an SC2 Wireless Connection System.

12-simline button plate.jpg


14-gt3-simline.JPG
 
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As I'm trying to solve the EMI issues I decided to create a visual inventory of the cables and electronic components I have to deal with installed on the rig or near the rig. This leaves the rig in a state that allows me to change a few components as well.
01-Components.jpg

02-Sim rig.jpg

03-Monitor Stand.jpg

04-19 rack.jpg
 
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Ideally, shielding should be tied to signal ground at only one place in a system,
which will unavoidably be at least in the PC.
Buy a bunch of ferrite beads for each end of any cable that does not already have them.
Yeah already made a whole plan. Spoke with Thanos, bought a bunch of fresh cables, emi filters. An update post will appear soon
 
Triple monitor mount for motion rigs

The current setup has the triple monitors installed on an external stand that allows me to place the monitors as close to the wheelbase as possible. But only because I have not enabled the surge effect on my motion rig. I enjoy the surge effect. However, it automatically enables the upshift and downshifts effect, generating a short jolt each shift. When I got the motion platform, the software didn't allow for controlling the shift effect, and the brutal attack on my neck annoyed me so much that I just disabled the surge effect completely. SRS introduced controls for this feature a few updates ago. I ordered the 6DOF upgrade kit from PT-Actuators, so I need to make some changes to the rig that keeps my monitors close to the wheelbase while enjoying all the motion functionality of the motion platform. Time to mount the monitors to the rig.

01-side.jpg


The PT actuator group came up with a great solution that keeps the monitors firm and rigid on the rig. Let me put it another way, I bumped my shoulder on a corner of the screens while they were attached, and it felt I was getting stabbed. They didn't move one bit.

The kit list:
  • Two 8040 profiles acting as uprights, length 120 cm
  • One 8040 profile acting as a crossbar, length 120 cm
  • Two 8040 profiles acting as arms, length 70 cm
  • Two 8040 profiles acting as connectors/reinforcement for uprights, length 31 cm
  • Two 4040 profiles acting as reinforcements\locking for arms, length 30 cms
  • Two 4040 profiles act as vertical rods to support the arms, length 50 - 100 cms.
  • Two T Connection plates 80 x 160 mm
  • Four Pivot joints 40
  • Sixteen corner brackets
  • Vario VESA adapter kit
  • Xero-play triple pivot adapters set
  • Three sets of adjustable feet of Sim-Lab P1 upgrade kit

Integrated Mount Offset
As the Simlab P1-X uses T connector plates to connect the uprights for the wheelbase mount to the platform base, I wanted to use T connection plates to follow the exact offset of the uprights.

02-offset.jpg


Reinforcement 8040
Although T connection plates provide a sturdy connection, we're dealing with a top-heavy situation here. The monitors are positioned at the far end of the uprights, tossed around by the motion. At the same time, we are attaching the whole construction at the bottom end of two profiles that already carry weight by themselves. Therefore reinforcements are required. Use an 8040 profile to connect the monitor upright to the wheelbase upright. I've used a handful of brackets to connect the 8040 profile.

03-Upright-connector.jpg


Maybe you can use a 4040 profile, but from an aesthetic point of view, I liked the 8040. The length of the profile is dependent on the distance between the monitor and the end of your wheelbase. I mounted the crossbar in front of the uprights. I also experimented with mounting the crossbar behind the uprights to get the monitors behind the wheelbase and the same setup as Steliyan from Race Beyond Matter (Youtube).

04-back of upright.jpg


If you want to move your monitors more towards the back, you either get a longer 8040 profile or play around with the position of mounting the crossbar. I ended up with two 31 cm 8040 profiles to get the best distance between my wheel and monitor, the upright position, and the placements of the slider system of the surge system.

05-T-connector.jpg


The crossbar is 120cm in length, it could be a bit shorter, but this gives you a bit of room to play with when sliding the arms into place and finding the correct angle.

The external monitor mount was using the Xero-play triple pivot adapters set from Sim-lab, and one of the key features is its swivel capability. It lets you move a monitor out of position to get in and out of the rig much easier. The last thing I want is two monitors flapping around like Dumbo's ears while driving the Nordschleife, so I dug around in the stuff I had lying around and found these 3mm steel monitor mounts.

After countless hours of adjusting and adjusting, I returned to the Xero-play adapter set and added two 4040 profiles to act as reinforcements and locking for the arms. Why? Because the monitors kept on sagging, even with the rods. Either the steel was already bent, or the bolts weren't gripping well enough. The sagging disappeared with the new solution. You can experiment with the length of these locking profiles as they don't have to be 30 cm. I had them lying around, and it fits my rig perfectly. The 30 cm isn't a result of a structural calculation. ;)

07-xero play.jpg


Vertical Rod
An essential component to mitigating sagging is the vertical rod. Connecting the rod to the upright of the wheelbase creates the best connection with the whole rig. Unfortunately, my aluminum profile supplier enjoys an extended vacation, so I have to use what I have. The overall consensus within the PT-actuator group is to use the rod of 100 cm and connect it from the bottom of the wheelbase upright to the monitor arm. The length I used for the profiles was 50 cm. Paired with the Xero play, it works. But maybe if you use 100 cm rods and typical 3mm plates to connect the arms, you also have a great solution.

08-vertical rod.jpg


Adjustable feet
Now that the arms are level and locked, the monitors can be mounted and secured. I use the fantastic Vario VESA adapter kit from Sim-lab. If you want to use Triples, get these. It's a no-brainer. This kit's level of adjustability will extend your life for a couple of years or at least keep your neighborhood children from learning new curse words if you are an "expressive DIY'er" like me. But this kit won't keep them into place when being exposed to the force of a motion platform, and that's where the adjustable feet of the Sim-Lab P1 upgrade kit come into play.

09-feet.JPG


The four feet require the arm to be at least 65 cm. I found it convenient to have it around 70 cm. This length allows me to slide around the VESA adapter when finding the correct angle for the monitor. The longer the arm, the more weight you introduce on pivot adapters and the overall rig, so I advise against introducing 120 cm arms on your motion rig.

10-all feet installed.JPG


When installed on all sets of feet, it feels like your rig can automatically receive all the TV networks in the world. Try to retract all feet as close to their base as possible, as this helps you place the monitors more easily.

Start by leveling the monitors with the Vario adapters first. After that step, slowly start to apply the feet to the monitors. With each foot installed, check whether the alignment of the monitors isn't affected. This step is quite a delicate dance between the Vario adapter and the feet. But once set up, the whole system is rock solid and will be one rigid solution.
12-triples.jpg
 
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This is an absolute dream. Excellent setup and the attention to detail is also excellent. I am loving the way you have mounted the monitors to the platform to cope with the forces that the motion will expose the monitors to.

I am following this thread closely now as I hope to aspire towards something similar of the coming years. I hope you don't mind me copying some of your hard work for my own rig :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for sharing Frank. Awesome setup. I am using Xero adapter and Vario vesa for my G7 triple monitor. However, it is sagging(?). They are not leveled. So I spent so much time trying to align my monitors but failed. I will try your solution. And also, is there any advantage mounting monitors upside down?
 
Finally, after rebuilding, spending copious amounts of cash, chasing EMI, and chasing ground loops, I finally solved the problem of disconnecting Simucube when I powered on the motion rig.

I've followed pretty much all recommendations that are floating around the community about this problem. So far, I've:
  • Grounded my rig (Ground cable from rig to wall outlet)
  • Used a single power strip
  • Used EMI filters
  • Used a powered USB Hub (Orico 13 ports)
  • Used (Tripp) USB cables with Ferrite chokes
  • Reduced all cable lengths
  • Shielded cables (Copper tape)
  • Used USB expansion card
  • Replaced all power strips
  • Replaced PC to rule out faulty USB mobo issues
And yet the Simucube connectivity bounced around like it was on a pogo stick. After Thanos recommended I look into USB isolators, I bought a Delock USB Isolator.

The USB isolator sits between the Simucube and the USB2 port of the PC. The Thanos controller of the motion platform is plugged into a port of the Orico powered USB hub, which solves the problem. No more disconnects.

I also tried it the other way around, and the drops returned. So for everyone who tried the powered hub, EMI filter, all-one-power-strip route. Maybe a USB Isolator can solve your problem as well.
 
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Thanks for sharing Frank. Awesome setup. I am using Xero adapter and Vario vesa for my G7 triple monitor. However, it is sagging(?). They are not leveled. So I spent so much time trying to align my monitors but failed. I will try your solution. And also, is there any advantage mounting monitors upside down?
Thanks! The reason why the monitors are upside down is that they can be mounted closer to the wheelbase. The monitor case has these annoying protrusions on the left and right bottom, which, if you would mount it normally, restrict you from moving the monitor all the way down as it will hit the uprights of the rig that hold the wheelbase. Mount it upside down, and you can get the monitors close to the wheelbase with a small gap. The NVIDIA\Windows software lets rotate your display.
 

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