Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

My journey started with a T300 and the basic 2 pedal set, I wasn't sure if the racing bug would really kick in so I wasn't willing to invest all too much early on and ever since I have been chasing my tail in the Thrustmaster ecosystem. The dual pedals it came with sucked and I very quickly ended up getting T3PA Pros to replace them.

T3PA Pros
I bought a set of T3PA Pros and they were a decent improvement. The brake was still positional but the conical brake in the box was OK if a bit stiff. I found the BJS Conical mod about 18 months ago and the green rubber was actually quite a good feeling with a gamma of 1.4. I drove like that for nearly a year and I got a lot better. I had managed to dial in a mostly linear feel but I had two problems at each end. At the top end of braking, there were too few values to give smooth adjustments and secondly, I couldn't really feel where 10% was so coming off trailing was a bit hard. I figured I would work it out in the end but I never got the hang of it consistently.

6 months ago I got an SRS (https://www.simracingsolutions.co.uk/) loadcell mod. Unlike the Ricomotech one, this pushes directly horizontally into the loadcell via rubber grommet. It is really solid, the pedal barely moves with this installed. It's not configurable either, so all you can really do is increase the minimum and decrease the maximum in-game to dial it in. Supposedly it has a 20KG loadcell in it, I was mostly using it at 45% in AC. This took my braking up a notch and made trailing easier, but I couldn't really come off the brake smoothly and slowly, the lack of movement was a bit of an issue. Hitting the points (100, 80, 20) was all fine but if I came off the brake and then wanted a blip of it the minimum was about 10%. There was too much pressure to get things going at all, it felt like 50% to get the first 10% and then linear upwards to 100% and that was the biggest problem. I wanted the trail to be half the pressure I was using at least it was far too heavy from the outset. They did offer to ship me a 10KG loadcell and that might have helped but I think the problem was more inherent to the design than the sensor.

T-LCMs

Enter the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals. The moment I saw reviews I figured the setup application combined with the configurable springs was likely going to be what I was looking for. I had a loadcell already and it had improved my driving but it wasn't easy to learn to use and I didn't like the pedal feel at all. I got them out of the box 3 hours ago (after leaving them for a week to de virus!).

I tried the initial medium brake setting, found about 60% brake pressure was similar, removed most of the minimum force and went for a drive. I drove the same car/track/grip I drove in an endurance race a few days ago so it was fresh in my mind for comparison. I dropped 1.5seconds at best, but more importantly I had a lap to lap variance of 0.2-0.3s. I managed maybe 0.6s with occasional bad laps with the SRS Loadcell, these things instantly fixed my inconsistency problem. Its one thing to eventually find the pedals help, but to instantly just find them amazing I was not expecting that. The confidence I have with these brakes within minutes of getting them out of the box is incredible.

The initial setup they have too much travel for my taste and I think I want to remove the preload motion, go a bit stiffer and get the throttle further away so I can heel-toe blip easier. But already I can see coming off smoothly is easy, hitting the key points for threshold was easy to learn and trailing was not a problem at all. I am impressed, as a combination its cheaper than the T3PA Pros and the Fanatec loadcell set which I nearly bought until these were announced. It is clearly better in every way than the SRS loadcell. Loadcells are not all equal and having that movement in the pedal helps with consistency just as the loadcell helps the muscle memory, I need both to race well apparently. My pedals were definitely limiting me and Thrustmaster has done a good job with these, hall sensors on the throttle and clutch and that smooth loadcell.

About the only thing that has irritated me is the need to unplug the USB for the pedals if you change a setting, but it's going to be an initial annoyance that disappears once I am done with the setup process.
 
I got these a few days ago and it's been an uphill struggle to get on with them compared to the super light plastic TM ones I've come from.

The push to get to 90-100% is so hard and over such a short range of motion that I feel like braking is either on or off and it's nigh on impossible to ease the brake off smoothly or find any ranges between min and max.

In hindsight I think I made a mistake in using the white (easy) spring. It felt the nicest to push down but it doesn't come back up hard enough to judge force properly.

Currently back to the default springs on 65% force which does seem a bit better so far.

Work in progress but the overall feel and quality seems good.
 
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I came from the t3pa pedals, with the conical brake mod. Just my two cents.

It took me some time to "judge" what do i actually need.

Is your chair moving, or are the pedals secure enough not to move? That was my biggest issue.

I have the gt omega apex wheel stand, relatively new.

My first problem was immobilizing my chair. As i managed to do it, i went for the double red springs, the hardest option, while not adding the bushings in the middle.

Before i immobilized my chair, i was torn between softer solutions, i did not even want to think about red ones. But after i did, i could not be happier with the red ones.
 
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Interesting discussion. I am also interested in these pedals. How do they compare to fanatec's V3s? I currently have a G29, and also want to upgrade my wheel. I am not sure whether to go fanatec or thrustmaster eco system. Will there any new wheels be coming for the pc from Thrustmaster? Perhaps because the new playstation and xbox are coming? Does anyone know this? If not, would you advice getting a T300 or a PC racer. The latter is much more expensive, but is it really that much better? What about the upgrade from a G29 to a T300?

Thanks for your help!
 
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Interesting discussion. I am also interested in these pedals. How do they compare to fanatec's V3s? I currently have a G29, and also want to upgrade my wheel. I am not sure whether to go fanatec or thrustmaster eco system. Will there any new wheels be coming for the pc from Thrustmaster? Perhaps because the new playstation and xbox are coming? Does anyone know this? If not, would you advice getting a T300 or a PC racer. The latter is much more expensive, but is it really that much better? What about the upgrade from a G29 to a T300?

Thanks for your help!
Hi, I just upgraded my t3pa pro pedals to csl elites and they are working well with my T300. I have noticed a great improvement, so much so that I do not think I will bother changing the wheel now.
 
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Put in some serious hours over the weekend after getting them fitted more securely but still struggling despite trying various springs and settings.

The initial push is very intuitive so I can brake as hard or soft as I need but coming off a long straight, no chance. Judging the pressure after a hard initial push to bring it down smoothly seems impossible. I generally end up coming off too quick.

I prefer the load cell for the pushing down part but the cheap spring pedal for the return part.
 
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Yeah these pedals have like a weird springy bounce feeling when you release the brake after applying full brake pressure. You can feel each individual spring as they bottom out on each other. I think its because of the multiple spring rates in the stack and lack of any dampening to control them on the rebound/release. I want to try just a single spring and either a hard spacer or a semi hard urethane type spacer and see how that feels. Overall they work pretty good once you kinda get used to them though.
 
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Yeah these pedals have like a weird springy bounce feeling when you release the brake after applying full brake pressure. You can feel each individual spring as they bottom out on each other.

I took another look following your comment and I am making more sense of it. Are you using the supplied washers?

I think the issue is the middle silver spring that's always present - it is so weak that it compresses completely before your chosen stiffer springs start compressing. This is not an issue pushing down as that's a quick movment but if you want to come off gradually the force you're resisting suddenly changes as there's a switch between the springs.

I hadn't given much thought to them but I think the silver washers are essential. They sit inside the silver spring and prevent it being used. I will test it later but they should create the feel of a single spring.
 
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About the only thing that has irritated me is the need to unplug the USB for the pedals if you change a setting, but it's going to be an initial annoyance that disappears once I am done with the setup process.


I go into Device Manager and disable and re-enable the pedals - much less work than getting in behind my PC.

Got mine on Saturday and I agree, they have surprisingly great feel and were easy to get used to. I had Clubsport V3's a few years ago and I struggled a lot to get used to them.
 
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I don't know anything about these pedals, but if there is a requirement to disconnect them when changes are made to settings, then an option could be to buy a usb hub with an off button per device. I use a couple on my PC, one for pedals, wheel etc. the other for keyboard dongles and my headphones.

I turn off the headphones when I'm not using the rig so sound and mic come through a web cam I used for conference calls. When gaming I turn it on and the sound magically all comes through the headphones. It saves my sanity not having the change things manually for work each morning.

 
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I don't know anything about these pedals, but if there is a requirement to disconnect them when changes are made to settings, then an option could be to buy a usb hub with an off button per device. I use a couple on my PC, one for pedals, wheel etc. the other for keyboard dongles and my headphones.

I turn off the headphones when I'm not using the rig so sound and mic come through a web cam I used for conference calls. When gaming I turn it on and the sound magically all comes through the headphones. It saves my sanity not having the change things manually for work each morning.

Or you can use Device Manager (see above).

I hope they update the software to do it automatically at some stage though.
 
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I took another look following your comment and I am making more sense of it. Are you using the supplied washers?

I think the issue is the middle silver spring that's always present - it is so weak that it compresses completely before your chosen stiffer springs start compressing. This is not an issue pushing down as that's a quick movment but if you want to come off gradually the force you're resisting suddenly changes as there's a switch between the springs.

I hadn't given much thought to them but I think the silver washers are essential. They sit inside the silver spring and prevent it being used. I will test it later but they should create the feel of a single spring.

Yeah I do have a few of the silver washers in there but not enough to lock out the soft center silver spring. It's pretty difficult to get everything together when the silver spring is locked but I'll try that next time too when I fire up the sim. The other thing I wish is that the pedal plates had more adjustment to be a little taller they kinda line up with the middle of my shoe instead of towards my toes like in my real car.
 
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It has been a bunch of months since I got the pedals and I used throughout driver61's masterclass and found I was having issues with trail brake accuracy for slight blips of the brake so I ended up completely removing the preload. I am still using the default springs just with a slightly different calibration and all the deadzone removed. That helped with accuracy coming onto the brake for small amounts of braking and while I don't like how that feels as much it is objectively easier for me to feel the right thing. I would recommend you test your ability to find 1% of the brake pressure coming onto the brake and if you can't get that right adjust the preload.
 
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I „removed” the preload at my pedals as well. But mute due to reducing the pedal travel. But so far I’m getting better and better in braking into the corner. Now I need to hammer into my head, that I have to break always at the same spot of the track
 
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I „removed” the preload at my pedals as well. But mute due to reducing the pedal travel. But so far I’m getting better and better in braking into the corner. Now I need to hammer into my head, that I have to break always at the same spot of the track

I used to think that but its not the case. Depends on the conditions and the car but its more than that it compromises your driving. A better approach is to only use brake references when you have time to move your gaze from the reference to the apex and then out to the exit as you approach the apex, if it is a short braking zone the reference will hurt your turn-in consistency as well as the control of the balance of your car. Looking way up the road so you are 2seconds ahead of what is happening matters more. If you brake early you can always just let off a bit and the time difference between the two is quite small and often has balance benefits, you need to know how to do that to follow someone closely anyway. If you use the same reference you will hit the car ahead of you.
 
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So after many hours of frustration and constantly changing settings I was convinced there was some sort of mental block that prevented me from being able to brake smoothly. No matter how much I focused on it I could never release the brake smoothly when cornering - it would always act like I was immediately lifting my foot off.

Genuinely felt like I should just jack in sim racing as I was studying videos on youtube and even after 50 laps couldn't get within 5-6 seconds of those times because I just couldn't replicate the smooth braking.

Turns out there's a setting in Assetto Corsa called 'brake gamma'. I had no idea it was there or what it was for. Maybe everyone else does but for those that don't and might stumble on this topic....

The default setting of 2.4 generates a power curve that multiplies the force registered the closer the pedal gets to the end of its travel to make a low resistance distance-based pedal register more like a real car pedal.

For a load cells there shouldn't be any power curve - it should act 1:1 with how the pedal is pushed (correct setting is therefore 1 to give a straight line).

When I commented above it felt impossible to release the pedal smoothly - it was impossible - because my inputs were completely skewed and uneven.

I've changed the setting and instantly I can ease off the brake how I'm supposed to. Oh the hours I've wasted....:cry:
 
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So after many hours of frustration and constantly changing settings I was convinced there was some sort of mental block that prevented me from being able to brake smoothly. No matter how much I focused on it I could never release the brake smoothly when cornering - it would always act like I was immediately lifting my foot off.

Genuinely felt like I should just jack in sim racing as I was studying videos on youtube and even after 50 laps couldn't get within 5-6 seconds of those times because I just couldn't replicate the smooth braking.

Turns out there's a setting in Assetto Corsa called 'brake gamma'. I had no idea it was there or what it was for. Maybe everyone else does but for those that don't and might stumble on this topic....

The default setting of 2.4 generates a power curve that multiplies the force registered the closer the pedal gets to the end of its travel to make a low resistance distance-based pedal register more like a real car pedal.

For a load cells there shouldn't be any power curve - it should act 1:1 with how the pedal is pushed (correct setting is therefore 1 to give a straight line).

When I commented above it felt impossible to release the pedal smoothly - it was impossible - because my inputs were completely skewed and uneven.

I've changed the setting and instantly I can ease off the brake how I'm supposed to. Oh the hours I've wasted....:cry:

good to know. Now I can safely buy these pedals. I am sorry to hear your time spent in this way.
 
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