The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

metalnwood · Oct 31, 2019

pass-low said:
an actuator has developed a clicking sound, doesnt appear to be in 1:1 sync with rotation the shaft, any idea what to look out for when removing and opening it up to investigate?

Could be a bearing and it may only show itself up when it is under load. I would first look at the fixed and bearing, the one connected to the same end as the coupling. It could be a small misalignment of the axis running through the screw but thats part of the problem with cheaper bearings. It's not something I would worry about unless the sound really annoys you, you may not hear it when the rig is actually running properly..

Were any of your sliders particularly tight? Another possibility is a little bit of stiction that might appear as a creak now and then.

would help if you had a small video with the noise.

driver74 · Oct 31, 2019

I just came across this thread a few days ago and have already read over 1/2 of the 300+ pages...Thanks, Henk for getting everybody excited in the first place.

Wow.

I just reignited my love of sim racing with my recent purchase of the dirt cheap Oculus Go VR, which is a great cheap VR that can be configured for use with motion simulators (I posted all about it in a seperate thread).

My plan is to build this sim and add the P1X and GS-5 seat, as that seems to work well for many.

I do have two questions...

I have considered building this in a 3 actuator (tripod) configuration, using a single rear actuator and left/right front actuator. In this configuration I feel that I may be able to get more range of motion during sustained pitch and roll excursions.

If properly balanced, would a single rear actuator support the weight for this (P1X, GS5, and 175 lb. driver)?

Will the software support this?

(I kind of assume it should, by just not incorporating and roll commands into the rear actuator)

Has anybody else thought of doing this?

I couldn’t yet find any mention of it in the thread.

Cheers and thanks.

anton_Chez · Nov 1, 2019

I don't think the software supports using only 3 actuators, but I may be wrong as there was a recent update that added a few new features. But I am pretty sure the system is designed to have 4 actuators and perhaps another software solution might need to be used to achieve good results using only 3.

o Tiger Feet o · Nov 1, 2019

Some of the test team recently tried 3 actuators with a special beta version of the software.
Basically the upshot was, its no where near as good as 4 for feel.

Paul Clark · Nov 1, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
I use a 3m micro usb to usb cable without any issues (now). I have all the servo and power cables going out of one side of the box and the usb and emergency stop out the other:

Finished rig, I’ll get some closer ups of the layout,

I’ve routed everything on the underside channel and then cable tied a few places. I could probably print some cable tie slot bits to neaten it up a bit and no have the Velcro visible all around but I’ll look into that once I’ve had a proper play as I’m bored of the tinkering for now. Thinking about getting some SRS fans to keek my head cool in VR but undecided on that as it’s pricey. I could just get a fancy dyson fan and get more benefits for double the cost.

Hi there - love the box for the power and serco controllers - can you share the dimensions and where you bought it from - thanks

Jasje · Nov 1, 2019

silly question but does the Arduino require a power supply or is it USB powered?

anton_Chez · Nov 1, 2019

USB but it does have capacity for an external power supply. However, using it rendered my USB connection non existent. So USB power is the way to go.

driver74 · Nov 1, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
Some of the test team recently tried 3 actuators with a special beta version of the software.
Basically the upshot was, its no where near as good as 4 for feel.

Would you possibly happen to have a link or any one of those people you could put me in touch with? I’m very curious of what their findings were.

o Tiger Feet o · Nov 1, 2019

driver74 said:
Would you possibly happen to have a link or any one of those people you could put me in touch with? I’m very curious of what their findings were.

Sorry I dont, but when Saxxon pops his head in here he may provide more info.

HoiHman · Nov 1, 2019

driver74 said:
Would you possibly happen to have a link or any one of those people you could put me in touch with? I’m very curious of what their findings were.

Send a message to @Ringorian. He's the only one with 3 actuator experience

pass-low · Nov 1, 2019

HugoB said:
First thing I'd check is the shaft coupling.. maybe it's slipping?

cheers, i striped it down yesterday, checked and tighten everything looks in order, still making a noise

pass-low · Nov 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
Could be a bearing and it may only show itself up when it is under load. I would first look at the fixed and bearing, the one connected to the same end as the coupling. It could be a small misalignment of the axis running through the screw but thats part of the problem with cheaper bearings. It's not something I would worry about unless the sound really annoys you, you may not hear it when the rig is actually running properly..

Were any of your sliders particularly tight? Another possibility is a little bit of stiction that might appear as a creak now and then.

would help if you had a small video with the noise.

thank for the reply, i'll sort a video/audio out this weekend, rig still works

driver74 · Nov 1, 2019

HoiHman said:
Send a message to @Ringorian. He's the only one with 3 actuator experience

Thanks. Here is a link to an ISTV thread that got me thinking about this in the first place. I warn you; its a long, but good read.

Seat mover vs DBOX? No...seat mover + DBOX!

I had a random idea last night and figured to ask if anyone had experience or an opinion one way or another. I know people tend to fall into camps: seat mover fans and DBOX fans. I have a seat mover (stage 4+ SimXperience) but I always keep an open mind to what is out there. Ill admit to being in...

www.isrtv.com

The point that made good sense to me, was Joe Extraknow’s post, “Given arbitrary 3 points, you can always form a plane.”

Would love to know your thoughts; as you have a good amount of hands-on experience with the SFX platform.

metalnwood · Nov 1, 2019

driver74 said:
The point that made good sense to me, was Joe Extraknow’s post, “Given arbitrary 3 points, you can always form a plane.”

Would love to know your thoughts; as you have a good amount of hands-on experience with the SFX platform.

If that is your main concern I wouldn't worry. Given four points you can always form a plane as well, if thats what you are aiming for and with the likes of SFX, dbox and similar the intention is to keep all four feet on the fround at the same time.

The reality is that four actuators with sfx and racing just doesnt give you any problems that might come to mind. I am not sure that anyone will give you any good examples of where a 4 actuator system has not performed in reality where a 3 actuator system would be preferable.

I have not done the maths but the only argument I have heard come up a number of times is the additional movement that you may get on the roll axis. I would be curious to see how many degrees extra you get but I don't think it is necessary on the SFX as most of these discussions originate from a dbox setup which generally has only 1.5" of movement compared to the 4" of the SFX. A 4 actuator SFX system has a lot more movement out of the box than dbox anyway.

Unless there is another reason, I would just go with 4 imo

Viper20 · Nov 1, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
M8 x 16mm for the actuator side (you'll need the swivel-in tnuts from the shopping list)

5-16/18 x 5/8" for the rig (1530 profile in my case) side https://www.tnutz.com/product/combo-015-a/

Awesome Thanks again Blue!

So, i just ordered everything from the list i am now on the tnutz website. I am going over your parts list and i see at the bottom you state "Upgrades to your rig to make it more sturdy. I use big heavy plate brackets instead of inside corner brackets whenever possible. These are available at www.tnutz.com much cheaper than at 8020.net. "

Would you please tell me what plates you ordered, i did verify with John from 4play racing that the rig i ordered will indeed be 1530

Thanks again!
Frank

metalnwood · Nov 1, 2019

Viper20 said:
Awesome Thanks again Blue!

So, i just ordered everything from the list i am now on the tnutz website. I am going over your parts list and i see at the bottom you state "Upgrades to your rig to make it more sturdy. I use big heavy plate brackets instead of inside corner brackets whenever possible. These are available at www.tnutz.com much cheaper than at 8020.net. "

Would you please tell me what plates you ordered, i did verify with John from 4play racing that the rig i ordered will indeed be 1530

Thanks again!
Frank

Which one did you get that is 1530? When I first looked for them after your initial post I saw them for sale on ebay, they looked like 4040 but I see that they dont actually say on their ebay pages.

BluePotato00 · Nov 1, 2019

Viper20 said:
Awesome Thanks again Blue!

So, i just ordered everything from the list i am now on the tnutz website. I am going over your parts list and i see at the bottom you state "Upgrades to your rig to make it more sturdy. I use big heavy plate brackets instead of inside corner brackets whenever possible. These are available at www.tnutz.com much cheaper than at 8020.net. "

Would you please tell me what plates you ordered, i did verify with John from 4play racing that the rig i ordered will indeed be 1530

Thanks again!
Frank

My rig from John at 4Play was largely held together with these types of inside corner brackets:

(CB-015-B) 15 Series 2 Hole Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ

They are 100% Equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4302, T-SLOTS #653136, Frame-World #EB-1

www.tnutz.com

But try to use these flat plate brackets wherever possible to join your profile (there are more types, but here are some examples):

(JP-015-N) 15 Series 12 Hole Tee Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4325, T-SLOTS #653158, FrameWorld #EB-24

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-M) 15 Series 12 Hole 90° Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4328, T-SLOTS #653161, FrameWorld #EB-27

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-J) 15 Series 5 Hole TEE Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These plates are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4340, T-SLOTS #653173

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-P) 15 Series 7 Hole 90° Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4352, T-SLOTS #653184

www.tnutz.com

Viper20 · Nov 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
Which one did you get that is 1530? When I first looked for them after your initial post I saw them for sale on ebay, they looked like 4040 but I see that they dont actually say on their ebay pages.

Hello,
He has one called the Competition platform that has it, his ebay store is a nightmare and he will tell you that lol. He is working on a website but for now the best way to get in touch with him is email at sales@4playracing.com

His name is John and he is a great guy i emailed him numerous times and had about a 2 hour phone conversation with him, never tried to sell me a thing just provided a ton of knowledge. I did end up ordering from him and cant wait for the rig to arrive.

Frank

Viper20 · Nov 1, 2019

BluePotato00 said:
My rig from John at 4Play was largely held together with these types of inside corner brackets:

(CB-015-B) 15 Series 2 Hole Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ

They are 100% Equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4302, T-SLOTS #653136, Frame-World #EB-1

www.tnutz.com

But try to use these flat plate brackets wherever possible to join your profile (there are more types, but here are some examples):

(JP-015-N) 15 Series 12 Hole Tee Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4325, T-SLOTS #653158, FrameWorld #EB-24

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-M) 15 Series 12 Hole 90° Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4328, T-SLOTS #653161, FrameWorld #EB-27

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-J) 15 Series 5 Hole TEE Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These plates are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4340, T-SLOTS #653173

www.tnutz.com

(JP-015-P) 15 Series 7 Hole 90° Joining Plate | TNUTZ

These parts are 100% equivalent to the following manufacturers: 80/20 #4352, T-SLOTS #653184

www.tnutz.com

Thanks again sir!

saxxon66 · Nov 1, 2019

SimFeedback does support a 3 actuator setup.I implemented it as a budget option.

Fun fact, I had a 3 actuator setup in the beginning while waiting for my 4th to finish printing.

It felt ok, you will get all effects and some axis will have slightly more range.
The three points will stabilize by itself.
That will prevent any lifting of the ground.
And I would recommend this setup for a flight sim platform.

There are also some drawbacks.

You need to balance the COG in the center of all 3. In our setups that will bring actuators very close together because the width will determine the max distance.

One actuator has to take the double load of the other two.
This is not a big problem with our very strong servos but it was in my older DC TriMotion setup.

The main reason we do all use a 4 actuator setups is that is feels more connected.
Yes I know this is not a scientific argument and I can only speculate why it feels different.
I think the position of the actuator is responsible for this and some slightly out of sync movements (with respect to the other actuators) will give you a different sensation.

The axis of rotation is in the middle between two actuators. If you look at the wheelbase of a car in relation to the driver you will likely want your rotation axis right in front of your seat.
This is not simple to achieve with a 3 actuator setup.

And last but not least, our actuator can shake/rumble. Having 4 doing this at all 4 corners is better.

We do all use the 4 actuator setup, this makes profile sharing easy, even we do not have the exact same setups.
With a 3 actuator setup you will need to do some modifications by yourself.

It is a great way if you are on a tight budget and you can upgrade any time later.