The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[anton_Chez]

I forgot to get back to Henk @HoiHman about the surge effect I was talking about. I get the kick from the gears, that's pretty normal in all the profiles. But i'm struggling to get the tilt back upon acceleration out of a corner? I don't want it facing the ceiling, but the brake dive seems a lot more pronounced than the squat from acceleration from a standing start or coming out of corners.

I'll have to have another play with it. I swear I've felt it somewhere but now that I've taken the V3 off I want to really make use of this effect. I remember you mentioned also that although not it's strong point, you can generate some really nice pitch and surge effects with the SFX-100. It was ages ago but we were discussing the merits of the V3 combined with the actuators.

Anyway, if you can think of anything to help get that feeling of thrust out of the platform, I'd be happy to try out anything anyone has to suggest. The graphs are all there, it can't be that hard to extract it out of them!

 

[Ahikam Naor]

Don't expect any response whatsoever and you won't be disappointed. The stuff will just arrive one day as if by magic.

I love magics, but I love them more with a tracking number

 

[MeNoMoney]

I've had 2 dhl tracking numbers emailed to me today from 2 seperate places and neither work.

Also finally after days of looking and stressing abouy which 3d printer to buy I just took a chance and ordered this 3D printer and 1kg test real of pla in red(all they had) to give it a try.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Cre...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1KG-2-2l...var=453232169080&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[Chris Sellars]

@MeNoMoney Good choice on the 3d printer. Make sure to check out the build videos on youtube for the hints and tips. The big tip is get everything square and level. I used Esun PLA+ worked very well.

 

[Requis]

...Can anyone comment on whether the gap is too big..from the Extruded Aluminum to the printed bearing mount...the screw just turns and so can't tighten it any further...considering backing it out and putting loctite
thoughts?
GS5 Seat came in....now trying to figure out seat rail for final rig build....almost there!

 

[Flag Ghost]

...Can anyone comment on whether the gap is too big..from the Extruded Aluminum to the printed bearing mount...the screw just turns and so can't tighten it any further...considering backing it out and putting loctite
thoughts?
GS5 Seat came in....now trying to figure out seat rail for final rig build....almost there!

View attachment 293786 View attachment 293787

I don't know but I'm lovin on the red !!

 

[Maddo Doddo]

your parts are warped....

 

[sjb266]

...Can anyone comment on whether the gap is too big..from the Extruded Aluminum to the printed bearing mount...the screw just turns and so can't tighten it any further...considering backing it out and putting loctite
thoughts?
GS5 Seat came in....now trying to figure out seat rail for final rig build....almost there!

View attachment 293786 View attachment 293787

If you've threaded the 3D printed parts and the bolts won't tighten it's a bit of a worry.. Maybe a reprint and try to fix your warping issues...

You might be OK with Loctite but i'd reprint..

 

[Specialist68]

enclosure your printer! and use fan 40% layer 0.2 speed 25 ( yeah low )

 

[C64]

...Can anyone comment on whether the gap is too big..from the Extruded Aluminum to the printed bearing mount...the screw just turns and so can't tighten it any further...considering backing it out and putting loctite
thoughts?
GS5 Seat came in....now trying to figure out seat rail for final rig build....almost there!

No need to worry about the corners being pulled up a bit, as long as the surfaces mate around the bolt holes it will work just fine. Not sure I understand which threads are not holding firm, is it the plastic thread in the top bearing mount that holds the motor mount... if so then definitely worth trying to use loctite, the motor mount only has to take the torque load of the motor, there is no significant upwards load on the motor mount, the bolts just need to be tight so they do not loosen. You can alaways re-print the top bearing mount at your leisure... but if it was me I would try with what you have already.

 

[Mascot]

If you've threaded the 3D printed parts and the bolts won't tighten it's a bit of a worry.. Maybe a reprint and try to fix your warping issues...

You might be OK with Loctite but i'd reprint..

If the self-tapped thread has stripped in the 3DP parts then another option might be to pack the ports with epoxy and drive the screws in 'wet' and let it set around them, or let it set and re-drill the ports prior to driving the screws in again.

Fine-thread machine screws aren't really ideal for this type of application. Coarse-thread self-tappers would probably be much stronger.

 

[jimbraj]

any iphone x guys... i made a holder that i attached to my keyboard tray so my phone wont crash to its death!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3456229

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Just abit of positive feedback for our friends at Kinetik.

Yesterday I sent an enquiry via their website - this morning I have a detailed email back from them.

OK that's a pretty standard affair - but I know some of you have struggled with communication. Maybe they are getting to grips with their new website and us sim driving weirdos

 

[Vantskruv]

Assembling my first actuator to see how everything fits. A question though, I noticed the O-ring should be placed in the bump-stop. It does fit, but it will come loose.
Should you glue it in place?

 

[C64]

Assembling my first actuator to see how everything fits. A question though, I noticed the O-ring should be placed in the bump-stop. It does fit, but it will come loose.
Should you glue it in place?

A couple of dots of superglue will keep them in place - that's what I did

 

[Mascot]

A couple of dots of superglue will keep them in place - that's what I did

Yep, I did this and it worked a treat. In fact, it would have been a nightmare without it.
Rowan - is it in the new instructions?

 

[anton_Chez]

My O-Ring is happily bouncing between hard points in there.......

No glue needed !!

/sarcasm, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand

/facepalm

 

[Mascot]

I'm not considering it, just curious: does anyone here use a Gametrix Jetseat or Realteus Forcefeel with their SFX100?

 

[MrRoper]

I'm not considering it, just curious: does anyone here use a Gametrix Jetseat or Realteus Forcefeel with their SFX100?

I have a jetseat and will be setting it up for engine vibe once I have finished my actuators

 

[pass-low]

what size Forkcrimp connectors fit the controller L1 etc terminals?