The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[thenic123]

Hi. It's been awhile since have visited this thread.

Was wondering of improving my SFX-100 for longevity, so have some questions.

Has anyone opted for the 1610 ball screw? Any improvements over the 1605?

Where to purchase or have made the aluminium parts to replace the 3d printed parts?

Is it worth replacing the bottom bearings with nylon versions?

Is Amy still at ntl bearing?

Thanks in advance.

 

[HoiHman]

Hi. It's been awhile since have visited this thread.

Was wondering of improving my SFX-100 for longevity, so have some questions.

Has anyone opted for the 1610 ball screw? Any improvements over the 1605?
The 1605 ball screw if properly greased will last a lifetime

Where to purchase or have made the aluminium parts to replace the 3d printed parts?

There's no performance or durability gain from going to aluminum parts. My SFX-100 is almost 5 years old and still going strong. The 3d printed parts are a safeguard so they will break when something goes wrong, protecting the ballscrew from damaging

Is it worth replacing the bottom bearings with nylon versions?
YES, it does make it a bit more quiet.

You might have a look at is the top bearings in the upper block of the actuator.
They carry all the load and weight and i had to replace them once and it made the motion much more silent.

 

[HoiHman]

Even though there haven't been any updates the SFX-100 is still going strong and works great with every sim title released up to now.

The first next new title will be FM8. If it supports motion, we will see how good the current SFX community is with providing a telemetry provider.

 

[thenic123]

You might have a look at is the top bearings in the upper block of the actuator.
They carry all the load and weight and i had to replace them once and it made the motion much more silent.

Thanks for your replies.

Any links to the nylon slider and upper bearings you mentioned?

I had diablo2112 aka Joe Martz print them as I don't have a 3d printer.

@HoiHman

 

[HoiHman]

Thanks for your replies.

Any links to the nylon slider and upper bearings you mentioned?

I had diablo2112 aka Joe Martz print them as I don't have a 3d printer.

@HoiHman

Sorry No,

Nylon sliders are from igus, but you will have to google that.
I haven't changed a bearing in more than 2 years now

 

[thenic123]

Anyone used the 1610 ball screw and is it any better than 1605?

 

[thenic123]

Hi everybody

I think I have something that could help with the noise issue described, but first I will like to thank you for sharing this project. You, and the cofounders of SFX-100/Simfeedback project, have done true a lot of ambitious wishes from the sim racing community.

I think we could use a 1610 screwball to help with the noise issue. With a 1610 screwball and setting these driver parameters: P98=10 and P51=1500, we will have an equivalent configuration to the original setup (1605 screwball, P98=20 and P51=3000). The down side would be the actuator’s thrust capacity. It would be half of the actual thrust at same RPM’s. Doing some research with actuators with similar specs, I can assume that SFX-100 thrust is close to 200 Kgf at 250 mm/s (3000 RPM). The SFX-100 with a 1610 screwball would have a thrust close to 100 Kgf at 500 mm/s (3000 RPM) which I think is adequate. If we turn down the RPM’s to 1500 we will have similar thrust to the original SFX-100 and the noise reduction effect.

I have been watching this thread for a long time. My project is to build a sim motion cockpit for everything (25% racing sims on track, 25% rally sims, 50% flight/space sims). The SFX-100 actuator is perfect to race on tracks but for rally/flight sims more stroke would be beneficial. So, I am planning to build an actuator based on the SFX-100 design, and Simfeedback software, but with a longer (100 mm +) 1610 screwball, aluminum profile and shaft.

I will really appreciate your observations about my project.

Best Regards.

Did you end up getting the 1610s and does it fit the slider with the flange?

 

[Doctormay82]

Hi,
Which parameter do I have to modify to change the height of the actuator in static mode?
Thank you

 

[HugoB]

Just got the WitMotion tracker installed and OpenVR Motion Compensation working, all I can say is: I should have done that 5 years ago! Wow, now taking the Carousel at NS does not place me outside of the car xD and I can increase my roll/pitch even further, it works flawlessly. I was concerned that the two large Buttkickers Concert would vibrate the frame so strong (RPM) that the sensor would drift, but apparently the software is now so good that they have filters to prevent this, so I did an hour long NS race and had zero sensor drift.

I also feel much more connected to the car now, since the steering wheel stays planted in the virtual world.

This got me thinking I might modify my 5 year old SFX100 actuators from 100mm to 150mm.. because it does sometimes hit the limit, especially with rallye. Anyone done a conversion?

 

[thenic123]

@HoiHman

Do you mean FK12 upper bearing or the flanged ball screw was replaced?

Been investigating this 1610 ball screw supposedly quieter business. I've been emailing NTL bearing about weight capacities and dimensions. I had a look at the Slider stl and it shows the distance/depth shown to the inside ledge is 32.5mm, can someone confirm this? Ntl bearing tell me the ball screw coupler length is (1605)40mm & (1610)47mm. If it's 40mm for 1605 then the top of the Slider wouldn't mate flush and screw down to the bottom side of the ball screw flange.


They also mentioned from the table that CA means Dynamic load rating and CAO means Static load rating. So which is used for rig weight capacities and what values are they e.g: KG or Pounds?

 

[HugoB]

Anyone looking for an Assetto Corsa profile for SFB, I have been optimizing this profile for years now and I'm finally happy:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15PgvWIaOJ0Yopd4XMy7yWNYvRg_3CVI3/view?usp=sharing

It's pretty wild, but I prioritize realism over being a league racer seeking the fastest laps (I'd turn off motion in that case anyway).

I've discovered that 'sway' and 'traction loss' degrade the realism for me, so I don't use them. The pitch/roll information gets muddled by these effects. The most important feedback comes from pitch/roll, as it informs me precisely about the car's behavior on the surface, whether tilting or bouncing. Sway and TL share the same axis, causing me to lose information.

I've found that 'heave' should be minimal and sharp to avoid interfering with pitch/roll. This way, you only perceive the track surface details for a sense of speed. However, if the movement is too pronounced, I lose essential sensory data from pitch/roll.

The only 'effect' I have left in is 'surge', but it's only purpose is to give a little kick while shifting and I've tuned it to only activate in this case, so it should not do too much besides that. It feels great with paddle shifters. Unfortunately in AC when driving very slow and stuttering or hitting the pit speed limiter, the 'surge' telemetry goes all over the place, but otherwise while racing the effect is limited to the shift 'kicks' and doesn't interfere with pitch/roll, so I kept it.

I've also fine-tuned the RPM shaker for accuracy in RPM and intensity. Upshifts and downshifts provide precise feedback through my Buttkickers. I don't even need to glance at the tachometer; I can sense it in the frame. I've calibrated my Buttkickers (two Concerts: one beneath the pedals and another under the seat) to be subtle. They're just perceptible but barely audible, making my rig nearly silent during operation. Paired with VR (Valve Index) and motion compensation, it's the best motion simulator experience I've ever had. Best track/car combo for me is Nordschleife (Carousel!) and Porsche Cup, that thing feels like it has real suspension and rubber tires!

Maybe it can help someone. I have a similar feeling profile for AMS2 if anyone is interested.

 

[razzta01]

Hi, I am returning to my sfx100 rig after 2 years. Sadly when I connected today my sfx100 rig I got some AL04 and AL06 errors. I did unmount the Kinetik profiles and discovered the ball screw was broken (balls came out of place due to failure of material which holds them and the sealing end).

Can someone let me know where to buy some (I am based in Europe). It would be great if I could buy some that are better quality than the ones I had.

Since I am forced to buy new ones, I am thinking about making them larger (sfx100 to sfx150). But I need to confirm before if Simfeedback does support that travel? Also, do I just need to buy a 300mm ball screw and a 300mm hollow shaft? Is the original Kinetik alu profile able to handle this extra length or do I need to mod it? Pls, let me know if I am missing something else.

 

[Namake_HU]

Maybe it can help someone. I have a similar feeling profile for AMS2 if anyone is interested.

Yep.

 

[HugoB]

Yep.

https://transfer.sh/get/loEkwdJGzf/pcars_AMS_2_-_Hugo.xml

 

[Andy J]

Hi all,

Been doing a lot of reading and got a quote from NTL and Amy for both the SFX100 and 150 versions. I have been wanting to do this for several years, but it has been hard to justify the costs, but you only live once right !!!

Couple of questions

1) Is there any disadvantage with going with the longer 150mm travel as the costs appear to be only marginally higher - the travel I think can be adjusted in the software anyway.
2) I am going to get the ali profiles with the order from Amy. Without having them to measure does anyone know which 3D print files are the correct ones to use with this profile.
3) Is there any difference with the 3D printed parts between the 100mm and 150mm ?

Getting exciting about this build and really appreciate and advise before I take the plunge !!!

 

[Freeon]

Hi all,

Been doing a lot of reading and got a quote from NTL and Amy for both the SFX100 and 150 versions. I have been wanting to do this for several years, but it has been hard to justify the costs, but you only live once right !!!

Couple of questions

1) Is there any disadvantage with going with the longer 150mm travel as the costs appear to be only marginally higher - the travel I think can be adjusted in the software anyway.
2) I am going to get the ali profiles with the order from Amy. Without having them to measure does anyone know which 3D print files are the correct ones to use with this profile.
3) Is there any difference with the 3D printed parts between the 100mm and 150mm ?

Getting exciting about this build and really appreciate and advise before I take the plunge !!!

1. I don't think there is a disadvantage but I don't think simfeedback gives 150mm of travel so will have to use something else or just get 100mm travel.
2. If i'm not mistaken they provide the 3D files if you buy their profiles
3.Don't think so but could be wrong.

Maybe somebody else with more direct knowledge about the 150mm will chime in.

 

[egolgeli]

https://transfer.sh/get/loEkwdJGzf/pcars_AMS_2_-_Hugo.xml

Not available anymore! Would it be possible to upload again?

 

[HugoB]

Not available anymore! Would it be possible to upload again?

https://transfer.sh/get/vjqJHA9mfk/pcars_AMS_2_-_Hugo.xml

 

[Fil140]

Hi, I am returning to my sfx100 rig after 2 years. Sadly when I connected today my sfx100 rig I got some AL04 and AL06 errors. I did unmount the Kinetik profiles and discovered the ball screw was broken (balls came out of place due to failure of material which holds them and the sealing end).

Can someone let me know where to buy some (I am based in Europe). It would be great if I could buy some that are better quality than the ones I had.

Since I am forced to buy new ones, I am thinking about making them larger (sfx100 to sfx150). But I need to confirm before if Simfeedback does support that travel? Also, do I just need to buy a 300mm ball screw and a 300mm hollow shaft? Is the original Kinetik alu profile able to handle this extra length or do I need to mod it? Pls, let me know if I am missing something else.

I would go for a thanks with simtools software. There's a thanks DIY that costs pennies to build on github. Msg me if you need further advice on them.

 

[HoiHman]

I would go for a thanks with simtools software. There's a thanks DIY that costs pennies to build on github. Msg me if you need further advice on them.

Just checked and even the today released Forza Motorsport is working without any problems with SimFeedback.

As of right now there's not a single race title that is not supported by SimFeedback. With the current titles available, new users can have years of fun and enjoyment.

There will probably be a solution for WRC also ( hopefully ) so there's no immediate need for switching to a thanos controller for me. Maybe a thanos controller in the future, time will tell