The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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For future builders, I just received my order from Kinetic. So take 6 weeks in account, but could be earlier.
They couldn't have done the packaging better, very nicely done.
 
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Hi, everybody,
Does anyone know how to contact the staff of opensfx.com?
They indicate that if you have recently finished your project you should contact them to see if they can provide a solution, but I can't find out how to contact them.

Thank you,

just buy a licence and then you get a mail with the discord server info as well, as things you want to know or find out thats the place i think.
 
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Wow, been away for a little while, on a little Corvette project and seems some things have happened around here. I hope things work out. Doesn't the software expire after a set time requiring new licenses?
 
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Hey guys, so which version do you need to get here?

Also, kinda worried about the SimFeedback software license issue. :-/
 
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So my question was also in relation to the previous comments on the software licensing side of things. If donations are stopped then we can not get the expert mode license or they are given without donations for now? Is that mode even required to get the most from the hardware? Seems kind of pointless starting a build now if the software isn’t going to be fully available to use it.
 
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So my question was also in relation to the previous comments on the software licensing side of things. If donations are stopped then we can not get the expert mode license or they are given without donations for now? Is that mode even required to get the most from the hardware? Seems kind of pointless starting a build now if the software isn’t going to be fully available to use it.
you can try to get a licence before building the actuators and check its functionality with the arduino.
 
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So my question was also in relation to the previous comments on the software licensing side of things. If donations are stopped then we can not get the expert mode license or they are given without donations for now? Is that mode even required to get the most from the hardware? Seems kind of pointless starting a build now if the software isn’t going to be fully available to use it.


Don't worry by the time you will have finished your build chances are big you can donate again to get access to the expert mode.


First steps are being made for the new application and validation process.

Just make sure you make some pictures during your build so you can show you are a DIY builder and not a commercial vendor who is applying for the license.
 
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Don't worry by the time you will have finished your build chances are big you can donate again to get access to the expert mode.


First steps are being made for the new application and validation process.

Just make sure you make some pictures during your build so you can show you are a DIY builder and not a commercial vendor who is applying for the license.

OK Thanks. I was reading a thread in this forum of someone with aluminium parts instead of 3D printing and a debate on that being wrong - it is a requirement to 3D print to get a license? Is that why pictures are required? I came away from that discussion a little confused.
 
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OK Thanks. I was reading a thread in this forum of someone with aluminium parts instead of 3D printing and a debate on that being wrong - it is a requirement to 3D print to get a license? Is that why pictures are required? I came away from that discussion a little confused.

Yes it's required that your SFX is a DIY project and you do not buy these aluminium parts for the shop that illegally want to profit from other peoples designs.
 
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Only difference is one has hardwired cables and one has removable ones. I got the removable ones only because its easier if you ever need a cable. Make sure to ask for shielded cables when placing the order.

That used to be the case but there are now 4 options with/without pigtails or with/without and a 90 designation. Not sure what that means on the pigtail version but if you look at the pics you can see some 90deg connectors on the male/plug side which is the removable cable. It appears 90deg connectors is now an option, which makes the socketed 'b' versions a bit more attractive.

Agreed it makes sense to specify shielded cables since with some suppliers this has also become an option. I'm in the process of replacing my wires with shielded cabling. A tip for anyone doing theirs: the part of the connector body that protects the soldered joints is left hand threaded.
 
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That used to be the case but there are now 4 options with/without pigtails or with/without and a 90 designation. Not sure what that means on the pigtail version but if you look at the pics you can see some 90deg connectors on the male/plug side which is the removable cable. It appears 90deg connectors is now an option, which makes the socketed 'b' versions a bit more attractive.

Agreed it makes sense to specify shielded cables since with some suppliers this has also become an option. I'm in the process of replacing my wires with shielded cabling. A tip for anyone doing theirs: the part of the connector body that protects the soldered joints is left hand threaded.

There was only A and B when I ordered mine. If they had a 90 right off the motor that unscrewed there I definitely would have went that way. Ordering with shielded cables just makes sense because its a cheap option. I think it was like 10 dollars or something that wasn't even worth considering not doing for the cost. Plus if you have vr you can almost guarantee issues if you don't. Zero issues for me so far.
 
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