The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

HoiHman said:
STL is fine, there have been literally hundreds of 3D prints and a lot of them have been done using the prusa Sli3er.
So i advise you should re-check your settings. Are you using a prusa printer with prusa Sli3er?

The slider can be printed without support if the orientation is correct.

I have a ender 3 and used the settings for prusa slicer from this post:

Insert Coin said:
Some tips from my side when using an Ender 3:

it seems to generate a overhang support for this complete layer. thus making it not solid.when i disable the automatic generation of support material i get this "missing layers" will try different slicing software

HoiHman · Mar 2, 2020

_hagenaar said:
I have a ender 3 and used the settings for prusa slicer from this post:

it seems to generate a overhang support for this complete layer. thus making it not solid.when i disable the automatic generation of support material i get this "missing layers" will try different slicing software

Prusa Sli3er is made for Prusa printers and that why you are probably having issues with complex shapes.

HoiHman · Mar 2, 2020

This is what it looks like on the prusa printer.

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

HoiHman said:
Prusa Sli3er is made for Prusa printers and that why you are probably having issues with complex shapes.

I have printed all my STLs with PrusaSlicer on my Ender 3 Pro without issues. Version 2.2.0 of PrusaSlicer will even support the Creality Ender 3 natively.
I have opened the generated gcode file to see if there is a gap, but there is none:

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

Spikar said:
need some EMI help with my servo motors.
Getting some interference through the monitors when motors are online
What's the best way to shield them?
Would something like this be enough? Shield each cable individual.

Anything else that I should consider doing?

I looked into replacing the cables but not really keen on splitting cables etc

Should I be grounding anything else after applying the tape?

See here. Ground your rig too.

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

Insert Coin said:
I have printed all my STLs with PrusaSlicer on my Ender 3 Pro without issues. Version 2.2.0 of PrusaSlicer will even support the Creality Ender 3 natively.
I have opened the generated gcode file to see if there is a gap, but there is none:
View attachment 353011

i will have a better look at the settings....

when i open the item24 slider with the default settings i get this

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

Item24 slider? That's a different one than the original one?

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

Insert Coin said:
Item24 slider? That's a different one than the original one?

Yes, i didn't order the kinetik profile but the item24 profile
https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

_hagenaar said:
Yes, i didn't order the kinetik profile but the item24 profile
https://opensfx.com/mods-item24-extrusion/

I have opened the Item24 slider in PrusaSlicer and sliced it:

No errors when I open and slice the original one, so the Item24 STL has problems unfortunately.

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

Insert Coin said:
I have opened the Item24 slider in PrusaSlicer and sliced it:
View attachment 353014
No errors when I open and slice the original one, so the Item24 STL has problems unfortunately.
View attachment 353015

I think it is because it thinks there is still a part of the extrusion used to make the middel part of the slider

nitramsen · Mar 2, 2020

Hi,

I have just finished printing all the 3d parts,received most parts (Still missing servos) and assembled the first SFX100 actuator today.

When I tighten the M8 screws on the top part with the fix bearing to the Alu profile the leadscrew goes so tight that I cannot turn it by hand anymore. A small 12v electric screwdriver can turn it without any issue. This was without the shaft, so it was not misaligned between the shaft and the leadscrew. It must be because of some small misalignment somewhere (3d part or alu profile cut angle). 3d parts looks good and are flat (There is a little wrapping at the corners but not much)

Before I spend hours on this, I was hoping that someone could comment on if they could turn the leadscrew by hand after assembling the actuator?

The slider/leadscrew runs very easy in the profile, before the mounting of the top part.

Thanks

Solved: I drilled the screw holes on the top part with a 9mm drill to make a little room for adjusting the part. After this I could turn the leadscrew by hand.

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

nitramsen said:
Hi,

I have just finished printing all the 3d parts,received most parts (Still missing servos) and assembled the first SFX100 actuator today.

When I tighten the M8 screws on the top part with the fix bearing to the Alu profile the leadscrew goes so tight that I cannot turn it by hand anymore. A small 12v electric screwdriver can turn it without any issue. This was without the shaft, so it was not misaligned between the shaft and the leadscrew. It must be because of some small misalignment somewhere (3d part or alu profile cut angle). 3d parts looks good and are flat (There is a little wrapping at the corners but not much)

Before I spend hours on this, I was hoping that someone could comment on if they could turn the leadscrew by hand after assembling the actuator?

The slider/leadscrew runs very easy in the profile, before the mounting of the top part.

Thanks

i assembled 1 actuator and i can turn it by hand

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

_hagenaar said:
I think it is because it thinks there is still a part of the extrusion used to make the middel part of the slider
View attachment 353017

Maybe PrusaSlicer's 'auto-repair' ruins it? You could try slicing it in Cura instead PrusaSlicer: the slice looks good in Cura (just tried it). One remark: Cura doesn't have 'solid layer every x layers' as far as I know.

_hagenaar · Mar 2, 2020

Insert Coin said:
Maybe PrusaSlicer's 'auto-repair' ruines it? You could try slicing it in Cura instead PrusaSlicer: the slice looks good in Cura (just tried it). One remark: Cura doesn't have 'solid layer every x layers' as far as I know.

will give that one a try

I edited the slider stl a little bit in blender and now it moved down.
thinking about combining the 2 gcode files.
any sugestion for a program to view gcode after the merge?

nitramsen · Mar 2, 2020

hagenaar

Thanks for your reply, I will have to check everything then to find where the misalignment is....

Insert Coin · Mar 2, 2020

_hagenaar said:
will give that one a try

I edited the slider stl a little bit in blender and now it moved down.
thinking about combining the 2 gcode files.
any sugestion for a program to view gcode after the merge?
View attachment 353026

You can open gcode files in Cura.

Freeon · Mar 2, 2020

Insert Coin said:
Maybe PrusaSlicer's 'auto-repair' ruins it? You could try slicing it in Cura instead PrusaSlicer: the slice looks good in Cura (just tried it). One remark: Cura doesn't have 'solid layer every x layers' as far as I know.

I started printing some parts. So far have done 1 motor mount and 3 foot pieces all using Cura. I'm just now realizing that you are right it doesn't appear to have 'solid layer every x layers'. How important is this step. I can switch to PrusaSlicer for the rest, should I re print what I have already done? As for the sliders I also have the item 24 extrusion so will likely have the same issues _hagenaar. What would the consequence of printing without 'solid layer every x layers'

Moxley6969 · Mar 2, 2020

Freeon, Imo the Solid layers per 20 layers is Flat out Useless and only adds time and filament to the job.

Item 24 slider....Model is fine.

Dennis Johnson · Mar 2, 2020

Probably dumb question but.... I am considering hopping on this wagon and building a rig.
After doing some research, I am now a little confused about Simtools and SimFeedBack.
Thanos makes a controller that allows simtools to be used on the sfx100 rigs.
Which is better? What are the differences? Should I even be concerned a about this?
Thanks for a little education on this!

ThugUK · Mar 2, 2020

Dennis Johnson said:
Probably dumb question but.... I am considering hopping on this wagon and building a rig.
After doing some research, I am now a little confused about Simtools and SimFeedBack.
Thanos makes a controller that allows simtools to be used on the sfx100 rigs.
Which is better? What are the differences? Should I even be concerned a about this?
Thanks for a little education on this!

The Thanos unit is not supported by the creators of the SFX100. Not only that but by buying the Thanos unit you are giving money to someone who is making it off the back off other peoples hard work and generosity.
Also the SFX100 creaters only get money (not much either) by selling the SimFeedBack software.
Thanos may have more things to tweak, but its also more complicated and VERY expensive considering you can still do most things with SFB (which is being developed on and improving every day).
There is also a great Discord group for SFB, which helps with the software and SFB, where the creator team regularly post and help people.
Its your money and your choice, but which ever way you go, I would still buy SFB to help the creators a little. Its the least you can do.