The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Did some wiring today, with a little help from Henk. Yesterday i was at his place and checked his setup, i was blown away of how inventive Henk is with his rig. Also the stuff he makes like steeringwheels are top notch.

Thanks again Henk for letting me visit.

FDDB1818-3-ED2-42-F3-A9-CE-3-D33355-DA28-C.jpg
 
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Had one hour left to print ..and so little filament left:


..and no replacement roll! Was ready to pull the power plug to trigger the Prusa’s power-loss save state, then continue next week when the new roll would arrive. But it just worked out :whistling:

Now got all my actuators assembled:

B335-AE01-CF76-44-A9-B6-A1-4388-E7147-E2-E.jpg


45-BCE139-018-B-47-E0-BFE8-D787349-F34-C7.jpg


Test ride tomorrow. Hope it works!
 
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Had one hour left to print ..and so little filament left:


..and no replacement roll! Was ready to pull the power plug to trigger the Prusa’s power-loss save state, then continue next week when the new roll would arrive. But it just worked out :whistling:

Now got all my actuators assembled:

B335-AE01-CF76-44-A9-B6-A1-4388-E7147-E2-E.jpg


45-BCE139-018-B-47-E0-BFE8-D787349-F34-C7.jpg


Test ride tomorrow. Hope it works!
Let us know how it goes I have 2 more parts to print then I'll just be waiting for my motors to arrive.
 
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I wouldn't discredit anything without trying it first. Many people forget this when they 'compare' seat movers to full chassis motion without having tried either of them. They discount the validity of the seat mover (usually, as opposed to the full chassis motion which always seems to get a free pass) based on theory alone.

Having quite some seat time in both systems, i can say they both have their advantages. The seat mover clearly does a better job in simulating G-forces, while a platform mover does a better job of actually simulating the car.

The SFX-100 is awesome, but sometimes i still miss my NLMv3. No regrets though and never looking back.

While the SFX-100 does surge really good, the seat mover gives a better braking or accelerating experience. This is mainly caused because your upper body moves while your lower body remains stationary.

One of the biggest sensations in real life racing is the braking. That's why i will add some device that will increase the immersion of braking.

This could be a seatbelt tensioner or an extra surge actuator for the seat only.

Personally i don't think that a rear traction loss of the seat only will feel very good.
 
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Having quite some seat time in both systems, i can say they both have their advantages. The seat mover clearly does a better job in simulating G-forces, while a platform mover does a better job of actually simulating the car.

The SFX-100 is awesome, but sometimes i still miss my NLMv3. No regrets though and never looking back.

While the SFX-100 does surge really good, the seat mover gives a better braking or accelerating experience. This is mainly caused because your upper body moves while your lower body remains stationary.

One of the biggest sensations in real life racing is the braking. That's why i will add some device that will increase the immersion of braking.

This could be a seatbelt tensioner or an extra surge actuator for the seat only.

Personally i don't think that a rear traction loss of the seat only will feel very good.

Your honest, informed and balanced appraisals are always so refreshing and greatly appreciated! :thumbsup:

As an NLMv3 owner, I've 'toyed' with the idea of the SFX-100 a great deal but I enjoy the experience, immersion and simplicity of the seat mover and its supporting software so much across all the sims I play, (in vr), that I've been very reticent to make the change. However I've no reference point or experience when it comes to a platform mover to make a direct comparison and maybe it's best it stays that way! ;)
 
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Your honest, informed and balanced appraisals are always so refreshing and greatly appreciated! :thumbsup:

As an NLMv3 owner, I've 'toyed' with the idea of the SFX-100 a great deal but I enjoy the experience, immersion and simplicity of the seat mover and its supporting software so much across all the sims I play, (in vr), that I've been very reticent to make the change. However I've no reference point or experience when it comes to a platform mover to make a direct comparison and maybe it's best it stays that way! ;)

Thats why i use a seat belt tensioner, without it I miss something in surge. The good thing about it is that your body stays where it is relative to the pedals and wheel and you feel the brake accelleration really good combined with the sfx100 . Taste ....
 
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I love the "Heave-effect" that a platform mover provides; the feeling of "Suspension" is really superb and I plan on adding seat-belts soon to enhance the braking effects. After that, it's really the sustained G-forces that are missing for me so I have my eyes on one of the g-seat solutions in the future.

It's just really great to have some options to choose from, no matter which system suits our wants and needs best. :)
 
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Just finished mounting the actuators to my rig, fired up AC and did a first ride.

It is amazing.

Things that strike me the most:
  1. I'm afraid to crash now, it is brutal.
  2. I can feel EXACTLY when and which wheel hits a curb, very, very accurate. I can feel the curbs passing below the car, it's eerie in VR.
  3. Braking gives immense information, like weight transfer and when grip starts to lose
  4. Every part of the track (Nordschleife in this case) has so much data, I didn't know what I was missing! The carousel is really harsh and so much fun! There is a lot of road texture in 'Döttinger Höhe', it is no longer a boring straight. etc etc.
  5. The synchronization is so accurate, in VR it feels like driving a real car, my brain quickly accepted the sensory input and transformed the driving into something that might actually be happening right now. In other words, it takes less effort to convince myself I'm driving.
  6. These SFX-100 actuators are really silent.
  7. I don't want to stop racing now.
This was all with stock settings for AC. It is very good already. Maybe I can make it better, but for that I will need some time to understand 'what' I want first. I've heard on the German forum that rFactor2 is miles ahead of AC in terms of road texture data and suspension/tire feedback, so that will be my next ride. I started off with 1200RPM on the motor controllers, which was already lots of fun, but after confirming that the rig didn't move through my living room and all the bolts stayed in place, I cranked it up to 3000RPM: sooo crisp! Like taking earplugs out of your ears, all sounds are crisp now and no longer muffled.

As soon as I've cleaned up the cables a bit, I'll post some pictures of my rig. I'm still not sure about the positioning yet, since in the Discord it was mentioned that it's better to have your seat at low as possible (close to the turning point of the motion).

I'm so glad it 'just works', after many hours of printing, assembling and figuring out the electrics, it was very exciting to hit start in AC and immediately get a perfect ride. Thank you Saxxon for making this possible! You are making a lot of people around the world really happy! Christmas came early this year;)

Now back to racing.
 
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Amazing feedback from everyone. Every post my mind switches from sticking with what I have to hassling Simon to hurry up and finish his actuators so he can get onto mine.....

I can't help but wonder what it would be like with BOTH the SFX-100 and the V3 running in tandem. I feel the G seat would be the best combination with it but seeing as they are increasingly rare and going to be costly to import, I'd suggest the V3 would be a viable alternative as long as we can remove some of the feeling from it and leave it to what it does best.

I am loving these enthusiastic reports from people getting their actuators up and running. We are all helping pave the way for a new frontier in sim racing. Adding motion and VR takes what was previously playing a game and turns it into driving a race car. For something that can be had for around the same price as a V3, meaning chassis, motion actuators and seat, the authentic sim racing experience just became a whole lot more reachable for a whole lot more people.
 
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Amazing feedback from everyone. Every post my mind switches from sticking with what I have to hassling Simon to hurry up and finish his actuators so he can get onto mine.....

Second lots of motors arrive today.. so should get a test tonight!

If i could be bother i could put the SFX100's on my V3 rig and give it a crack.. The one thing I really hate about the V3 though is the wobble inherent in it's design...

I think i'm going to get a SCN6 and run simtools for belt tensioner.. like the set-up in the videos we've all been watching!

More info to follow!
 
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The wobble iof the NLMv3 is what made me sell it and not try it on my SFX100 rig. Next Level Racing claims the NLMv3 can handle the fast movements of the chassis, but i'm confident it will break at some point.

The movements of the chassis can be so violent short and fast, that it will go into it's next movement before the NLMv3 has reached the right position. It will probably even out a lot of detail to.

But...... go for it :thumbsup: Can't wait to hear what it's like :cool:
 
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The wobble iof the NLMv3 is what made me sell it and not try it on my SFX100 rig. Next Level Racing claims the NLMv3 can handle the fast movements of the chassis, but i'm confident it will break at some point.

The movements of the chassis can be so violent short and fast, that it will go into it's next movement before the NLMv3 has reached the right position. It will probably even out a lot of detail to.

But...... go for it :thumbsup: Can't wait to hear what it's like :cool:

Yeah I’m not sure I’ll be in any real hurry to try it..
 
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Well the wiring is done, yay

Cant wait till its all done and can fire this baby up.

All the electronics i build under the seat. Something Hoihman wouldnt recommend cause of movements/vibration, but i am stubborn and gonna try it.

At work i work with several servo’s aswell and they are for robot arms. They shake voilently and we never have an issue, so thats why i choose this route.

All the servo’s are bolted down and is some padding under it to absorb some shocks.

77-B17820-52-A0-403-E-94-DF-DEECD5889-B3-E.jpg
 
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Well the wiring is done, yay

Cant wait till its all done and can fire this baby up.

All the electronics i build under the seat. Something Hoihman wouldnt recommend cause of movements/vibration, but i am stubborn and gonna try it.

At work i work with several servo’s aswell and they are for robot arms. They shake voilently and we never have an issue, so thats why i choose this route.

All the servo’s are bolted down and is some padding under it to absorb some shocks.

77-B17820-52-A0-403-E-94-DF-DEECD5889-B3-E.jpg
Nice is that a P1 rig? Hopefully I should be receiving my motors this week I don't see the power cords that go to the electrical outlets am I missing something or you haven't wired them yet? If everything goes well I may need some help with the Wago connectors I ordered them and the breadboard but I think I will use the Wagos.
 
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@anton_Chez yes I also think a G-seat would be the best combo with these SFX100’s. HoiHman knows what he’s doing ;) There is a DIY G-seat project running here on RD, maybe that will be the next big thing?

But to my surprise, these SFX100’s are way better than I expected. For one, there is much more small detail than I’d hoped for. I mistakenly thought only D-Box’s magnetic actuators could do ‘road texture’, but these SFX100’s are so fast and so strong that I feel not a single detail is lost, it can’t be! Even more ‘road texture’ would be unrealistic (like cranking up force feedback settings), the car has rubber wheels and suspension for a reason. ;) I’m so glad this road texture is that good though, I wouldn’t want to miss it, through sloppy rig design etc.

Yes, G-forces are non existent. But that is to be expected, we are staying in one place after all, not really driving around.. so there’s only so much you can do to trick the mind. There are some effects in the software though that can help to give cues. NLMV3 does a better job at portraying G-forces. For that reason I had my finger on the buy button three months ago. But I’m glad I went this route. ‘Heave’ is so much fun! And the wobble of the NLMV3’s design doesn’t appeal to me, it felt like details are being lost. Not with these SFX100’s. Paired with my new P1 rig, every little scratch in the road is felt in my bum.

Also, these actuators are strong, very strong, like industrial strong. If you crank up the effects too far, your rig will jump out the window (with you on it). I like having some overhead to play with though.

What has therefore become painfully clear: my trusty ol’ T300 is no longer up to the task. It flappers arount helplessly in the wind, it’s only a matter of time until it’s swept away into the nearest trash can. So until Fanatec finally delivers that damn DD, I’ll have to find a better way to tighten it up to the rig (maybe duct tape?). Also the included T3PA pedals are awaiting the same fate: in the heat of the motion they are too flappy to give any sensible feedback. I’m still waiting for Heusinkveld to finally release their Sprint pedals.

That’s the problem with upgrading one thing one your rig: something else becomes the weakest link.

My next move will be buttkickers for engine RPM only (I agree with HoiHman), then G-seat, then belt tensioner and then call it a day. (yeah right)
 
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But to my surprise, these SFX100’s are way better than I expected. For one, there is much more small detail than I’d hoped for. I mistakenly thought only D-Box’s magnetic actuators could do ‘road texture’, but these SFX100’s are so fast and so strong that I feel not a single detail is lost, it can’t be! Even more ‘road texture’ would be unrealistic (like cranking up force feedback settings), the car has rubber wheels and suspension for a reason. ;) I’m so glad this road texture is that good though, I wouldn’t want to miss it, through sloppy rig design etc.

There is no magic about the D-Box actuators, they use a slightly custom Kollmorgen AKM22 servo, attached to an actuator tube.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Box-Simu...0-2-21-ARMS-640VDC-8000RPM-93kW-/132311333021

https://www.ebay.com/itm/D-BOX-ACTU...EATRE-MOTION-/223093285807#vi__app-cvip-panel

They're quiet, but not silent, just like the SFX-100 actuators.


 
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Nice is that a P1 rig? Hopefully I should be receiving my motors this week I don't see the power cords that go to the electrical outlets am I missing something or you haven't wired them yet? If everything goes well I may need some help with the Wago connectors I ordered them and the breadboard but I think I will use the Wagos.

Yeah its a P1, the main power wires i still need to connect but waiting for a order to arrive.

Dont use the breadboard go with the wago’s they work great.
 
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Well the wiring is done, yay

Cant wait till its all done and can fire this baby up.

All the electronics i build under the seat. Something Hoihman wouldnt recommend cause of movements/vibration, but i am stubborn and gonna try it.

At work i work with several servo’s aswell and they are for robot arms. They shake voilently and we never have an issue, so thats why i choose this route.

All the servo’s are bolted down and is some padding under it to absorb some shocks.

77-B17820-52-A0-403-E-94-DF-DEECD5889-B3-E.jpg


I let you be the guinea pig :D

If all goes well, i might go that route in the future. As you have seen my setup would definitely profit from it.

I have asked the supplier David Liu if the drivers can be subjected to heavy vibrations. Will post an update when i get an answer.


Edit. If had to do the electronics again, i would go a different route en wire the arduino directly to the connectors supply with the servos



I understand why the developers when this route, but wiring them directly with selfmade cables would be my preference, saving a lot of space.
 
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We will see Henk, ill gladly be that guinea pig ;)

I find the wiring on the arduino board a bit crap, they cant be bolted down. Now ive soldered them but also that aint perfect.
 
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Just did some laps on Sebring, in a Radical, in rFactor2... Wow! Check with your dentist if all your fillings are tight :confused:

I was relieved to find some smooth spots on the track (new asphalt) :D. Now I know why cars are checked for loose bolts after racing there, the straight is really really bad. But fun! Also, rFactor2 has superb telemetry, it's a whole level better than AC. But of course there is only this one magnificent laser scanned Sebring.

On a darker note, my Oculus's left earphone is slowly cutting out. When I adjust it, the sound cuts off. I read on the internet that this is a common problem, it's the ribbon cable that goes through the strap, that mostly fails after your warranty is expired :mad: well... lets see how fast the Star VR one is available, until then it's external headphones.
 
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