The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Snajrog · Feb 11, 2020

_hagenaar said:
I think it is more a question if you are willing to take the chance it gets broken by all the vibrations

This is an overplayed myth.

anton_Chez · Feb 11, 2020

shaking an overly large and expensive monitor to death is more feasible than the fairytale you suggest....

I hated having ANY screen mounted with this thing running.

Snajrog · Feb 11, 2020

This fairytale has a happy ending, and everyone likes a happy ending...

Furnace Inferno · Feb 11, 2020

If you want to trust that your consumer screen built to cost and not designed to withstand heavy vibrations in either its components or mounting solution will stand the test of time doing so then go for it but personally I’d rather not risk it. Maybe the expensive industrial monitors they make for airports etc. but definitely not the standard stuff.

anton_Chez · Feb 12, 2020

I'm having a heart attack just looking at all the stuff there that could potentially go wrong.

Yes, the honeymoon phase is definitely over for me and yes I am having issues myself. Remember, all is great, until it's not. Even worse when you have no time to just sit there and test endless useless solutions to issues that shouldn't be there in the first place.

sjb266 · Feb 12, 2020

anton_Chez said:
I'm having a heart attack just looking at all the stuff there that could potentially go wrong.

Yes, the honeymoon phase is definitely over for me and yes I am having issues myself. Remember, all is great, until it's not. Even worse when you have no time to just sit there and test endless useless solutions to issues that shouldn't be there in the first place.

What’s happening Ant? I don’t even use mine anymore.. will be going up for sale soon!

anton_Chez · Feb 12, 2020

sjb266 said:
What’s happening Ant? I don’t even use mine anymore.. will be going up for sale soon!

Hey Simon, nice to see you. Ahhh the OSW is having issues with FFB spiking and cutting out intermittently, having a bad impact on races. I've driven motionless for around 6 hours of seat time and not a single issue yet. So I now have to troubleshoot, again, why the motion being plugged in and active is causing issues.

I'm almost at the stage you are.

Kim Rene Mossige · Feb 12, 2020

Hi guys, total newbie here, and I'm looking in to adding these actuators to my rig. I have a Rseat RS1, and I am looking at this video for inspiration:

Is this possible to achieve with the SFX-100 somehow? To maintain a very small footprint as shown in this video here, as it's crucial to my small apartment place.

HoiHman · Feb 12, 2020

anton_Chez said:
I'm having a heart attack just looking at all the stuff there that could potentially go wrong.

Yes, the honeymoon phase is definitely over for me and yes I am having issues myself. Remember, all is great, until it's not. Even worse when you have no time to just sit there and test endless useless solutions to issues that shouldn't be there in the first place.

USB and EMI gremlins are the worst.

Every time something has changed on my rig, i had to re-do the wiring and check out which USB plug goes where.

When i started out with the SFX100 + GS-4 i only need one usb connector.
But as soon as i exchanged the GS-4 for the GS-5 i had to start all over again.
The biggest problem arose when beta testing started and i went from one to two controllers ( for the seat belt tensioner)

But imho every time it worth the effort, it can be very frustrating though.

I ended up with a total of 5 usb plugs which are housed in to 2 connectors and i have been problem free for months now.

5 USB plugs to the PC might seem a lot, but on my rig i have:
- 2 (arduino) controllers for the SFX100
- 2 button boxes
- 1 USBD480 screen
- 1 Windsimulator
- Steering wheel USB connector
- AccuForce ( needs two connectors)
- GS-5
- HE-shifter
- Handbrake

All are running without any problems. I still have install the SFX100 shields, but the philosophy is "never change a good running system"

My opinion on having the monitor on the rig: Most definitely worth it, if you dare to take the risk.

The samsung 49" is basically a metal plate with the display fixed on it. If you mount it right and adjust your speed and acceleration accordingly you shouldn't have any issues.

Furnace Inferno · Feb 12, 2020

HoiHman said:
USB and EMI gremlins are the worst.

Every time something has changed on my rig, i had to re-do the wiring and check out which USB plug goes where.

When i started out with the SFX100 + GS-4 i only need one usb connector.
But as soon as i exchanged the GS-4 for the GS-5 i had to start all over again.
The biggest problem arose when beta testing started and i went from one to two controllers ( for the seat belt tensioner)

But imho every time it worth the effort, it can be very frustrating though.

I ended up with a total of 5 usb plugs which are housed in to 2 connectors and i have been problem free for months now.

5 USB plugs to the PC might seem a lot, but on my rig i have:
- 2 (arduino) controllers for the SFX100
- 2 button boxes
- 1 USBD480 screen
- 1 Windsimulator
- Steering wheel USB connector
- AccuForce ( needs two connectors)
- GS-5
- HE-shifter
- Handbrake

All are running without any problems. I still have install the SFX100 shields, but the philosophy is "never change a good running system"

My opinion on having the monitor on the rig: Most definitely worth it, if you dare to take the risk.

The samsung 49" is basically a metal plate with the display fixed on it. If you mount it right and adjust your speed and acceleration accordingly you shouldn't have any issues.

I’d consider that low, I wish I only had 5 but my PC hates USB Hub’s even with nothing connected they disconnect and that’s powered or unpowered so I can only assume it’s a motherboard issue as the onboard USB 3.0 also dropout.

Anyway I have 15 USB’s total and 12 connected up to the PC for all the sim goodness.

2x Arduino
Accuforce
GS-5
HE Pedals
HE Shifter
HE Handbrake
Fanatec H-Shifter
F1 Rim
Headphone DAC
3x Oculus Rift/Sensors
Button Box
Monitor USB (the only USB hub that does work!)

A lot of USB extensions and/or long wires, as you say though well worth it. I only use my 32:9 monitor for the non-VR sims and I don’t really notice it not moving with the rig to be honest not that I have the space if I did want to!

RowanH · Feb 12, 2020

One cautionary tale on monitors mounted to rigs - I did break the display port on my Acer Predator. It's now very flakey and plugging a cable in 9 times out of 10 won't work.

Then again my profiles....

HoiHman · Feb 12, 2020

Yes @RowanH i have some serious violent profiles to

But... i have a "Quick release" mount for my 49" Samsung, so for the intensive profiles i can take it off in less than 2 minutes and exchange the 49" samsung with 2 seaflows bilge blowers and use my Valve Index.

Edit: Just noticed that the second picture is older that the first since it doesn't have my new center console in it.

Peter Koslowski · Feb 12, 2020

A small tip for those who cannot get the fixed bearing on the ball screw:
Clamp the ball screw in a drilling machine and sand it down slowly with 600 grit sandpaper until the locating bearing can be pushed up easily and without play!

LukaUse · Feb 13, 2020

Peter Koslowski said:
A small tip for those who cannot get the fixed bearing on the ball screw:
Clamp the ball screw in a drilling machine and sand it down slowly with 600 grit sandpaper until the locating bearing can be pushed up easily and without play!

A much better option is putting the ballscrew in the freezer for a few hours, lubricating the shaft and carefully installing the bearing, make sure you align the axis perfectly.

Peter Koslowski · Feb 13, 2020

LukaUse said:
A much better option is putting the ballscrew in the freezer for a few hours, lubricating the shaft and carefully installing the bearing, make sure you align the axis perfectly.

This should also work, but you might not be able to get the fixed bearing off again when disassembling it. In principle, only axial forces of up to 2 kN act on the fixed bearing; radial forces are virtually zero. With two of my spindles the fixed bearings could be pushed on without any resistance, two of them I had to work on with sandpaper.

LukaUse · Feb 13, 2020

Peter Koslowski said:
This should also work, but you might not be able to get the fixed bearing off again when disassembling it. In principle, only axial forces of up to 2 kN act on the fixed bearing; radial forces are virtually zero. With two of my spindles the fixed bearings could be pushed on without any resistance, two of them I had to work on with sandpaper.

you can get it off easily, just heat it up, it does not need much.. I would not recommend grinding the shaft as the geometry changes. Every bearing/shaft fit should be tight and the assembly process always includes heating up the bearing or cooling the shaft, or both.

Peter Koslowski · Feb 13, 2020

LukaUse said:
you can get it off easily, just heat it up, it does not need much.. I would not recommend grinding the shaft as the geometry changes. Every bearing/shaft fit should be tight and the assembly process always includes heating up the bearing or cooling the shaft, or both.

Since linear actuators are not used for the production of turned or milled parts with small tolerances (<0.01mm), it doesn't matter if you grind 0.05mm on the ball screw. The whole thing here is already developing into a pseudo-science!

thedigitel · Feb 13, 2020

Is anyone using this LeoBox by NickMoxley? I'm looking for details on how to wire the motor controllers to the Arduino directly using Ethernet instead of messing with all the DB-25 connectors.

SFX-100 LeoBox by NickMoxley

M3 Hardware Required updated, Minor changes. If you want a tighter Clamp on the Cables, Slice the Clamp shorter than it really is, (z axis) Update, Added the Dsub25 Cable Gland

www.thingiverse.com

Screen Shot 2020-02-13 at 9.36.46 AM.png

thedigitel · Feb 13, 2020

Has anyone used this AC Servo / controller? Does it work with 110v like the commonly used controller does?

254.75€ 40% OFF|400W/750W AC 220V Servo Motor Drive Set 3000RPM 1,27 Nm/2,39 Nm 80ST M02430/60ST M01330 RS485 3/5/10m Kabel 2500 Linie 60mm/80mm|AC-Motor| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

de.aliexpress.com

_hagenaar · Feb 14, 2020

thedigitel said:
Is anyone using this LeoBox by NickMoxley? I'm looking for details on how to wire the motor controllers to the Arduino directly using Ethernet instead of messing with all the DB-25 connectors.

SFX-100 LeoBox by NickMoxley

M3 Hardware Required updated, Minor changes. If you want a tighter Clamp on the Cables, Slice the Clamp shorter than it really is, (z axis) Update, Added the Dsub25 Cable Gland

www.thingiverse.com

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