The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[scornflake]

Important is that the shield is not twisted together and than connected to the ground this is a so called pig tail.

Given I'll have either the internal braid of a shielded cable, or some external copper braid, what is the correct method of termination then? I don't have a metal enclosure on the AASD driver side. The cable + shield would be coming into some case (currently made of plastic), and it can get real close to the driver... but the termination points for U/V/W & Earth on an AASD is a screw connection. If not 'rolling' the shield and connecting to that, er.... options?

 

[_hagenaar]

Given I'll have either the internal braid of a shielded cable, or some external copper braid, what is the correct method of termination then? I don't have a metal enclosure on the AASD driver side. The cable + shield would be coming into some case (currently made of plastic), and it can get real close to the driver... but the termination points for U/V/W & Earth on an AASD is a screw connection. If not 'rolling' the shield and connecting to that, er.... options?

The best this is to use some sort of bracket to attach the shield to the aluminium heatsink of the drive.

The cores of the motor cable are normally terminated with cable en lugs like these :

 

[hazardpro]

Have you tried unplugging all your usb devices (except keyboard and mouse and SFX) then trying again to make sure its not a conflict?
Are you running any other piece of software (I had conflicts with Simhub).
Do you have access to another pc/laptop you could try?

Leads yes everything removed apart from mouse and Arduino

software.... when you say conflict what exactly happened?

I have

Simhub (wind sim)
Sim commander (bass shakers)
Sim steering (Leo Bodnar wheel)
Voice attack
Steam
Oculus

that’s about it. Pc is only used for my sim rig

 

[hazardpro]

So I’ve just tried a laptop (it’s a brand new W10 laptop with nothing on it).

installed the software to C:drive root (not in programfiles folder) ran the ‘remove blocking’ - this ran as expected. And opened simfeedback

selected the correct (and only) comm port.... and flashed the firmware (on screen confirmed it was “done”).

ran the ‘start’ feature..... same issue, zero response from the controllers/motors.

so I’d like to think that rules out my PC or conflicting software.

one thing I did note AFTER flashing the firmware to the Lio is that the “shaker” status light as the bottom of the sim software window is always green - is that correct/expected? (I have no other devices attached to this laptop)??

@saxxon66 @AnyOne can you please offer any advise on what to try next?

ps @saxxon66 I’ve made donation to access Discord, please check when you can

 

[Wmacky]

Have you tried reprogramming it, setting it up as per instructions?
Double check and if you are sure all is ok double check again.
99% of the time it’s user error.
Perhaps whilst the others are raising the dead one is trying to lower. That’s why you are getting the overload error as it can t lower any further.

That's a good guess and would explain it, but wiring is ok, and the adurino works if any other actuator is plugged into the same socket.

I have new information!

While watching it when raised, I noticed the drive reading number was 13 instead of 1, And I could see the leg very slowly lowering over a 30 second period. It wasn't just falling down , because I could but weight on it.

The when hitting stop it remain up for 10 seconds then dropped.

Next try - the number only went to 3 this time, but I could still see the actuator extend over a period of a minute or 2. When hitting stop it again remained extended for a few second before dropping and gave a Al-06 CODE. Usually the number is just 1, and I don't notice the actuator extending, but do feel a slight vibration like it's trying to.

So - It's like it's low on amps, and lacks power, but it works at full speed manually, and it not the acuator, as a cable swap causes a different one to act up?

EDIT- Looks like it's extending, and has been externding the entire time. Even with a reading of 1 on the drive. It is just so slow that it can take minutes to fully extend and I could tell. How could the drive be bad like this, and still move it manually just fine? Could a setting cause low amp output?

What the hell?

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

That's a good guess and would explain it, but wiring is ok, and the adurino works if any other actuator is plugged into the same socket.

I have new information!

While watching it when raised, I noticed the drive reading number was 13 instead of 1, And I could see the leg very slowly lowering over a 30 second period. It wasn't just falling down , because I could but weight on it.

The when hitting stop it remain up for 10 seconds then dropped.

Next try - the number only went to 3 this time, but I could still see the actuator extend over a period of a minute or 2. When hitting stop it again remained extended for a few second before dropping and gave a Al-06 CODE. Usually the number is just 1, and I don't notice the actuator extending, but do feel a slight vibration like it's trying to.

So - It's like it's low on amps, and lacks power, but it works at full speed manually, and it not the acuator, as a cable swap causes a different one to act up?

EDIT- Looks like it's extending, and has been externding the entire time. Even with a reading of 1 on the drive. It is just so slow that it can take minutes to fully extend and I could tell. How could the drive be bad like this, and still move it manually just fine? Could a setting cause low amp output?

What the hell?

If the motor is moving fine on Jog, wiring or leonardo or connectors are bad.

 

[Wmacky]

If the motor is moving fine on Jog, wiring or leonardo or connectors are bad.

I swapped motor cables, and D buss cables and they are OK. There is no other wiring to check unless shield is bad. But why would other actuators work OK when using same D-buss socket as the non working one?

Here's what I checked.

1. All D buss connectors at shield PCB seem to output OK with other drives.
2. swapped D buss cable OK
3. swapped motor cables OK
4. Problem follows drive 4 (No matter which Leonardo D buss socket, or actuator, It's always the same drive at issue)
5. Drive 4 Jogs servo normal
6. Drive 4 actuator does extend but extremely slow. I did just notice that it did not stop. To appears to keep going slowly to full extension then triggers a overload when bottoming out.

 

[hazardpro]

I swapped motor cables, and D buss cables and they are OK. There is no other wiring to check unless shield is bad. But why would other actuators work OK when using same D-buss socket as the non working one?

Here's what I checked.

1. All D buss connectors at shield PCB seem to output OK with other drives.
2. swapped D buss cable OK
3. swapped motor cables OK
4. Problem follows drive 4 (No matter which Leonardo D buss socket, or actuator, It's always the same drive at issue)
5. Drive 4 Jogs servo normal
6. Drive 4 actuator does extend but extremely slow. I did just notice that it did not stop. To appears to keep going slowly to full extension then triggers a overload when bottoming out.

If the problem follows the controller only, eg not the motor, cables or port on shield - then you have already pin pointed the issue to that controller no?

I wonder if there is a way to factory reset them

a manual for them would be nice!

 

[Wmacky]

If the problem follows the controller only, eg not the motor, cables or port on shield - then you have already pin pointed the issue to that controller no?

I wonder if there is a way to factory reset them

a manual for them would be nice!

Absolutely I agree I don't seem how it could be anything else.

So this question is is it possible to trouble shoot the drive itself?

There is a manual. I looked last night for a (reset Para to factory) procedure, but did not find it yet. Before I did, I hoping if Saxxon could comment on if a bad para could cause such behavior. I guess there could be a broken data connection within it, that does not effect manual jogging?

Tronicgr - You would know. Can you think of any such setting that does not effect jog?

 

[hazardpro]

Absolutely I agree I don't seem how it could be anything else.

So this question is is it possible to trouble shoot the drive itself?

There is a manual. I looked last night for a (reset Para to factory) procedure, but did not find it yet. Before I did, I hoping if Saxxon could comment on if a bad para could cause such behavior. I guess there could be a broken data connection within it, that does not effect manual jogging?

Tronicgr - You would know. Can you think of any such setting that does not effect jog?

I’d be grateful if you could point me in the right direction for the manual?

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

Absolutely I agree I don't seem how it could be anything else.

So this question is is it possible to trouble shoot the drive itself?

There is a manual. I looked last night for a (reset Para to factory) procedure, but did not find it yet. Before I did, I hoping if Saxxon could comment on if a bad para could cause such behavior. I guess there could be a broken data connection within it, that does not effect manual jogging?

Tronicgr - You would know. Can you think of any such setting that does not effect jog?

I'm sorry, don't understand what you mean. Follow the instructions to manually test the motor and the servo drive using the JOG function on the servo drive... does this work?

I don't know if there is some kind of a test function on leonardo, but on my controllers I have self-test functions not only for the motors but for the actuators as well, independent from software.

 

[ThugUK]

Leads yes everything removed apart from mouse and Arduino

software.... when you say conflict what exactly happened?

I have

Simhub (wind sim)
Sim commander (bass shakers)
Sim steering (Leo Bodnar wheel)
Voice attack
Steam
Oculus

that’s about it. Pc is only used for my sim rig

There are lots of reported conflicts with Simhub and Simfeedback.
Only use Simfeedback for both movement and wind (I do that and it works great).
I also use Simfeedback for my shaker too and don't even run Simcommander at all ( I probably should though).

That's a good guess and would explain it, but wiring is ok, and the adurino works if any other actuator is plugged into the same socket.

I have new information!

While watching it when raised, I noticed the drive reading number was 13 instead of 1, And I could see the leg very slowly lowering over a 30 second period. It wasn't just falling down , because I could but weight on it.

The when hitting stop it remain up for 10 seconds then dropped.

Next try - the number only went to 3 this time, but I could still see the actuator extend over a period of a minute or 2. When hitting stop it again remained extended for a few second before dropping and gave a Al-06 CODE. Usually the number is just 1, and I don't notice the actuator extending, but do feel a slight vibration like it's trying to.

So - It's like it's low on amps, and lacks power, but it works at full speed manually, and it not the acuator, as a cable swap causes a different one to act up?

EDIT- Looks like it's extending, and has been externding the entire time. Even with a reading of 1 on the drive. It is just so slow that it can take minutes to fully extend and I could tell. How could the drive be bad like this, and still move it manually just fine? Could a setting cause low amp output?

What the hell?

Is the coupling from motor to ballscrew loose?

I still think the issue may be something to do with the set up parameters of the controllers to the motors. If jog works then it all 'should' work.

Parameter values:

P8 = 300
P9 = -300
P51 = 1200 (3000) - Max RPM, start slow!
// Step Input Multiplier
P98 = 20 - Puls Multiplikator
P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing
P110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time
P113 = 20 - Feedforward %
P114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)
P115 = 100 - Gain %

 

[hazardpro]

There are lots of reported conflicts with Simhub and Simfeedback.
Only use Simfeedback for both movement and wind (I do that and it works great).
I also use Simfeedback for my shaker too and don't even run Simcommander at all ( I probably should though).


Is the coupling from motor to ballscrew loose?

I still think the issue may be something to do with the set up parameters of the controllers to the motors. If jog works then it all 'should' work.

Parameter values:

P8 = 300
P9 = -300
P51 = 1200 (3000) - Max RPM, start slow!
// Step Input Multiplier
P98 = 20 - Puls Multiplikator
P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing
P110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time
P113 = 20 - Feedforward %
P114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)
P115 = 100 - Gain %

unfortunanrly that theory doesn’t work as I tried with a brand new laptop today that had nothing else installed on it and I have exactly the same issue, so that rules out my pc and conflicting software for me

 

[Wmacky]

There are lots of reported conflicts with Simhub and Simfeedback.
Only use Simfeedback for both movement and wind (I do that and it works great).
I also use Simfeedback for my shaker too and don't even run Simcommander at all ( I probably should though).


Is the coupling from motor to ballscrew loose?

I still think the issue may be something to do with the set up parameters of the controllers to the motors. If jog works then it all 'should' work.

Parameter values:

P8 = 300
P9 = -300
P51 = 1200 (3000) - Max RPM, start slow!
// Step Input Multiplier
P98 = 20 - Puls Multiplikator
P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing
P110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time
P113 = 20 - Feedforward %
P114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)
P115 = 100 - Gain %

Not the coupler as all actuators work ok using a different drive.

Just rechecked the parameters, and all are dead on.

For clarity

The actuator / drive is working but in slow motion, taking a few minutes to slowly extend. It goes beyond the mid point, then trys to go beyond the travel limit. I hear a slight pop. I see a AL -06 drive error, then it quickly drop to midpoint.

When raising, all the drives display high numbers (amps?) but the malfunctioning drive never shows a number above 6 or less. It will continue to display this number after all the other drives display 0 again.

 

[hazardpro]

Anyone able/willing to check one of their controllers and let me know what settings they have for

FN001 - FN012 >?
And also dn-21
-----

@Wmacky

That error your getting is an overload error: 'overload 2'

"Pn015 parameter set period of time, 3 times greater than the rated load. Eliminate overload method reference 1. (Note: Some motors can only bear the rated load)
(2.5 or 2 times, 3 times is not counted)
Note: some motor can only bear the 2.5 or 2 times of the rated load, are not as calculated as 3 times."

Check Pn012 to Pn015 is set to default values as follows:

pn012 = 200
pn013 = -200
pn014 = 80
pn015 = 40

Also if you go to Fn004 you can reset the controller to factory default settings.

Worth a try mate.

 

[hazardpro]

@ThugUK to use Simfeedback for wind sim I presume you need the pro version (ive made a donation but waiting for the upgrade.

So that would mean I can ditch Simhub (shame as its a cool bit of kit)

Im happy to use Simfeedback for my shakers if it can do as good a job as Simcommander

Doug

 

[The_Line]

Hello all / Hej alla!

After realizing that I will not be able to house a simulator I am selling my parts. It contains everything you need to build a SFX-100 setup. 5 servos and 5 boards (one spare), ball screws and aluminum from Germany etc. Except the 3D printed parts.

Local pickup in Sweden. Lower price than ordering everything yourself.

Send a private message if you are interested in adopting this project.

 

[Wmacky]

Anyone able/willing to check one of their controllers and let me know what settings they have for

FN001 - FN012 >?
And also dn-21
-----

@Wmacky

That error your getting is an overload error: 'overload 2'

"Pn015 parameter set period of time, 3 times greater than the rated load. Eliminate overload method reference 1. (Note: Some motors can only bear the rated load)
(2.5 or 2 times, 3 times is not counted)
Note: some motor can only bear the 2.5 or 2 times of the rated load, are not as calculated as 3 times."

Check Pn012 to Pn015 is set to default values as follows:

pn012 = 200
pn013 = -200
pn014 = 80
pn015 = 40

Also if you go to Fn004 you can reset the controller to factory default settings.

Worth a try mate.

Just checked them - Pn014, and P015 were not set to default ( currently -250, and 80) but neither were the other working drives, so that should be ok.

 

[Wmacky]

FIXED!

At the urging of a fellow discord member, I began the task I did NOT want to do.

Checking over 1 hundred parameters against a good drive.

1 Minute later got to Para Pn002 - Control mode

It was set WRONG!!!!!!!!!

Yes, Hazardpro, and ThudUK were on the right track. Thanks to all that commented.

Hopefully this post helps a future builder.

 

[anton_Chez]

If it costs you nothing, just do it. I am working my way through solutions for my issue before I go and buy a new motherboard. Better to find it's a cable then tear your build down and spend more money and frustration for nothing.

Always compare to something that works.