The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Tronicgr_6DOF · Aug 7, 2019

diablo2112 said:
If your sliders don't fit, it's very likely because the 3D printer had a skew. If the printer is not absolutely dead-square, the result is a skewed part, and the tolerance between the slider and the extrusion is basically non-existant, it's an interference fit.

You said you used a 3D printing service. Many (most, actually) 3D "services" are just web-based sites that connect requesters with a bunch of folks that serve as printers. It's the luck-of-the-draw to get someone with a perfectly-calibrated printer. I, too, ordered a test set of parts from a 3D service when I began my SFX-100 build, and the parts I recived were terrible, basically unusable. By then, I had decided to just buy a good printer and do my own.

I spent many days and a dozen test prints to get my printer absolutely dead-square. This is harder than it sounds. I adjusted my printer frame iteratively until it was dead-square. Sliders from my printer are a perfect fit in the extrusions. They slide easily, but there's not the slightest hint of twisting or rocking. FYI.

Here's a comparison of the commerically provided parts (which I scrupuously worked with to provide SFX printing parameters) and a comparison to one of my test prints. I cut both open to show the differences. The commerical print is worthless here.

I haven't seen anyone detail the cost of building the SFX100 actuators including the tools needed (all of them , for someone that doesn't have any tools!)... I just wonder if it ends up more expensive that some commercial solutions in the end...

Furnace Inferno · Aug 8, 2019

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
I haven't seen anyone detail the cost of building the SFX100 actuators including the tools needed (all of them , for someone that doesn't have any tools!)... I just wonder if it ends up more expensive that some commercial solutions in the end...

Even with all the tools, it’s still much cheaper than the equivalent commercial option. The PT-Actuators I believe are the cheapest and they are significantly more.

Tronicgr_6DOF · Aug 8, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Even with all the tools, it’s still much cheaper than the equivalent commercial option. The PT-Actuators I believe are the cheapest and they are significantly more.

Well, that still doesn't say anything. And its not only the parts and tools, work hours to put this together makes me wonder if its truly cheaper. Perhaps its just not cheap for busy people with no spare time (me included).

sjb266 · Aug 8, 2019

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
Well, that still doesn't say anything. And its not only the parts and tools, work hours to put this together makes me wonder if its truly cheaper. Perhaps its just not cheap for busy people with no spare time (me included).

You could build 3 full SFX100 systems and it would still be much cheaper than an equivalent DBox system.. which isn’t even as good or customisable.. so yes.. it’s much much cheaper for what you get..

If you don’t have the time.. buy a DBox..

Wmacky · Aug 8, 2019

I believe he's referring to the PT actuator company that he provides control boards for rather than Dbox.

sjb266 · Aug 8, 2019

Cool. I should read with more attention!

Tronicgr_6DOF · Aug 8, 2019

Wmacky said:
I believe he's referring to the PT actuator company that he provides control boards for rather than Dbox.

That's right, but its partially true. I provide the same control boards for everyone, even existing SFX100 users... i don't exclude anyone, or lock my system with specific software etc...

All i was asking is to find out why a closed source system that will eventually cost more to make (and still end up with DIY quality varying to the ability of its maker), is preferred.

Wmacky · Aug 8, 2019

Actuator build cost for the SFX100 including motors /Drives in the US is about $1,700 ( 4 units) for those that already have the tools. At the time this project was started, the alternative was Dbox for several thousand dollars more.The savings could buy a very nice used Mustang GT! This is why so many have gone SFX. They are also easily repairable for little money without shipping back to China for repair if needed. Then there is the fun of a DIY group community build. I'm always a sucker for those.

Tronicgr_6DOF · Aug 8, 2019

Wmacky said:
Actuator build cost for the SFX100 including motors /Drives in the US is about $1,700 ( 4 units) for those that already have the tools. At the time this project was started, the alternative was Dbox for several thousand dollars more.The savings could buy a very nice used Mustang GT! This is why so many have gone SFX. They are also easily repairable for little money without shipping back to China for repair if needed. Then there is the fun of a DIY group community build. I'm always a sucker for those.

Like I said, if you already have the tools and the time yes...

But I see all these comments having hard time fitting parts or try to make similar parts work...

Even with perfectly fitting parts, I had hard time myself to put together the motor on the foldback actuator I had... and all parts are designed to perfectly fit together...

Also I prefer to get something that it will last without worries it might fail in the middle of a race... those are truly indestructible, even dropped them on the floor and they are still in one piece...

Furnace Inferno · Aug 8, 2019

It’s really not that much harder than putting an 80/20 rig together IMO, the hardest bit is the electronics and @Pyronious created a simple solution for that if you don’t want to dabble and even then doing it yourself is just a case of following instructions.

The PT-Actuators are still over 2.5x more than the the SFX-100. I think I spent a bit more than most around £2000 as I had to get a number of tools and a few other extras I wanted but the one member I’ve seen quote the PT said they were £5500. Granted they have 50mm more actuator movement but it’s still £3500 extra, easier or not that kind of money would get a GS-5 GSeat which would be a better investment IMO. If somebody doesn’t have the time or inclination to build one then why would they be in any DIY thread?!

At the end of the day I’m not sure why you are trying to discredit the SFX-100 and insinuate it’s unreliable when a number of people have been using them for well over a year with no issues or wear (although I could put 2 and 2 together...).
The actuators weigh a good 7.5-10kg and nothing I have seen would suggest they won’t last and on the off chance one of the 3D printed parts does fail we can just print another and replace it easily which is another benefit of DIY building something from scratch.

Jean-Paul Lanaux · Aug 8, 2019

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
But I see all these comments having hard time fitting parts or try to make similar parts work...
...

But ... what about all of the comments from those who had successful builds?

This build can be complicated for some. I built my SFX-100 around January 2019. I jumped on this project when someone had proof that the system would work using 110V in the US. I read this thread three complete times (time is a requirement for this build). I can't remember the exact number of pages this thread was in January. I took notes on specific issues, I watched some videos. As I invested time rereading the thread, the build became easier - because my understanding was becoming clearer.

I have seen many questions on this thread where it is obvious that the person has not spent any time reading the wiki page "OR" this thread, but has started the project. There are a lot of skills (and knowledge) required to fully assemble this rig, and this is why there is a lot of satisfaction - and (for some) frustration.

I had the time (I'm retired), most of the tools, skills and the desire to do this build. I didn't keep a running total of what I spent; my build included purchasing a 3d printer. I spent about $300 on the printer. I'm glad I didn't spend more, because I see many on this thread that spent a lot on the printer and had issues. I didn't watch my money too closely while I was building my SFX, but I think it was in line with what people on this thread were quoting.

So - if anyone is now thinking about building this project - I have some advice: read the thread - I know it's long. And when you are finished, read it again. And when you are finished reading a second time ... YEP - read it again. You will be able to learn from OTHER PEOPLES MISTAKES. Take your time and try to understand what you are doing before you attempt to do it. It really is the most efficient way to be productive - and it is usually cheaper.

Good luck, it is very satisfying ... and it looks neat ... and you will learn new skills along the way.

DJ_Psymon · Aug 8, 2019

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
Well, that still doesn't say anything. And its not only the parts and tools, work hours to put this together makes me wonder if its truly cheaper. Perhaps its just not cheap for busy people with no spare time (me included).

A few weeks ago I got two quotations from two separate DBox resellers, and the cheapest price for a 4xActuator "ex-demo" system was US$7000. Then I did a bit of research and read thru some of the materials on SFX-100. From where I am the BOM would total to about US$1500. So from the $ numbers, it was a no brainer.

But it's not just about the money. Like some already mentioned, this project requires some skills and lots of time to get it right. For people who like building things, it could be very satisfying. I got my 3D printer a year ago, but mostly for experimenting purpose only and never really made anything useful from it yet. But ever since I started this project, I've been learning a lot and perfecting my 3D printing skills (it's pretty much like being a Chef ). I didn't have a clue what all these specs meant for the "ball screw & nut" or even how a actuator works, until I successfully put one together myself!

I originally budgeted 6 weeks (part-time only as I have a day job) and US$1500 for this project. But now I think it will end up to be 8 weeks due to the extra time I needed to improve the 3D printing parts, and probably just under US$1k!

So US$1k instead of US$7k.. yeah that works for me (and for my wife too because I can now tell her that I'll be "saving" US$6k )

This photo is just to show the various test prints I made while experimenting different print materials, color and settings... etc. It's an extremely time consuming process but very satisfying when you wake up to the perfect result after 16 hours of printing!

HugoB · Aug 8, 2019

It would be nice if someone could add all the common mistakes and problems somewhere, maybe on the first post, or on the wiki/opensfx page..

But otherwise I think the wiki/opensfx page is already very comprehensive! I started building in November 2018 and there where only a few posts when I was researching and learning, so most of it was asking around and experimenting, but still it was a lot easier than I anticipated. I had to do the wiring myself too, now you can just get the shield and it’s mostly plug & play. With the fantastic OpenSFX.com site I’d say it has become more like a solid option for anyone, no matter what skill level (as long as you have a couple of active synapses in your melon).

The price is still unbeatable by any commercial system. Of course if you live in a bath tub and don’t even have a screwdriver you’ll have to get some basic tools, but most of the tools required are just standard household inventory stuff like hex screwdriver, file, hammer. You can make the build process easier by getting stuff like electric screwdriver and bit extender or so, but it’s not required. Actually everything is included in the wiki shopping list, except lube, which can be had for a couple of dollars anywhere. And a 3D printer. If you can find someone to print for you or use a university printer it won’t cost you more than 2000$ for the whole project, including all tools and lube. If you want to but a 3D printer yourself (for future projects, repairs, other sim racing related mounts/brackets etc, which I highly recommend) you can get the excellent Creality Ender 3 Pro now on sale for 229$, or an Ender 2 for around 100 bucks. This brings the price up to 2100 or 2000 if you get good deals. If you already have a printer I think you could manage to make the whole project for around 1700 bucks. There is still no commercial option that even comes close! And the performance of the SFX100 actuators is on par with all the big names like Prosimu, D-Box, PT etc.

For me the cost was the tipping point and I think for most people it has crossed below the point where you get more than you pay for, so it becomes a no-brainer. The cheapest option (PT-Actuators) at 4-5K and up is still too much for most people. I think this is the reason for the success of the SFX100 system, people in sim racing who are so far into the hobby that they consider motion, mostly have enough time and tools laying around that they don’t mind a bit of DIY. There is a very small group of people who buy Vesaro complete rigs (mainly commercial settings) or D-Box motion. PT-Actuators is the first actuators that I would consider, but I didn’t know of its existence when I was building SFX100. I would still rather build the SFX100 though, and add a GS-5 seat, or a Simucube 2 plus Heusinkveld Ultimate.

I’m sure because of your controller @Tronicgr_6DOF and because the PT-Actuators with AASD15A are now half the price of a Prosimu PRS200 150mm set, a lot more people will go that route, simply because the reports of difficulties during building of the SFX100 can be daunting, but I can assure everyone has managed in the end, and most mistakes are due to not reading the build guides properly or just bad luck with wrong size components delivered.

There is a nice video guide now btw:

https://youtu.be/L1PC1UfX9mo
https://youtu.be/JDC2_Usp5Do
https://youtu.be/8qssyrxLwOU

o Tiger Feet o · Aug 8, 2019

The SFX-100 is easy to build without any prior experience or specialist tools. The instructions and information available is much better than most commercial products.

Sure when you first order the parts from a list it doesn't really mean much. But once they are in hand its so incredibly simple - just like big Lego!

If youve ever had Lego or have built some furniture from that blue Swedish shop... you can definitely build a SFX-100.

Not only can you build it, you can service and repair it for very little money should a issue ever arise. That means no returning heavy items and waiting weeks and months to hear anything.

Wait theres more ....

With the new multi controller coming soon, the options for add-ons will be a tinkerers paradise!

I enjoyed building mine so much. Every morning was like Christmas morning, walking up to the 3D printer to see a new part ready and waiting for you. I was actually a little bit disappointed once Id completed it, I loved the process that much.... Until of course I fired it up for the first time. WOW!

Its a brilliant project and the end product works amazingly well.

sn4il · Aug 8, 2019

If your sliders don't fit, it's very likely because the 3D printer had a skew. If the printer is not absolutely dead-square, the result is a skewed part, and the tolerance between the slider and the extrusion is basically non-existant, it's an interference fit.

Also, do not assume aluminum profile is perfect. Before using a file on the slider, rotate the piece, check every possible position and it should fit.
I do not use heating bed on PLA anymore, some filaments are pretty soft and when your bed is too hot, the part will develop elephant's foot at the bottom.

metalnwood · Aug 8, 2019

As others have mentioned, it is still a lot cheaper than the PT option. Yes it takes time and you could say that time is money if we could magically turn all our free time in to money then that would be great.

I think for the majority of us, our income is fixed and we can't just decide to make another 5k to pay for a commercial system, and thats on the cheap end of the scale.

Besides, take an average person that might make $25 an hour after tax. Thats 120 hours they need to work more shifts just to pay the extra 3k for the commercial offering.. I know where I would rather spend that 120 hours and it's not at work. I will take a project related to my hobby any day of the week.

For those that have the money, go for it! I know some have the $$ and want to do the DIY option anyway.

If cost is an important factor, the sfx is a lot cheaper and yet to see any indication that it is inferior in any way. At least based on feedback from people that have used it and other systems. I have found the software very good so I dont see any issues about you being 'closed'. In a short time with community help there are 20+ games supported and more features around the corner..

For anyone that has had something like this that has broken and you had to wait ages for a fix there is great satisfaction knowing whatever breaks, you can fix it and usually fix it quickly.

Just to add to that, for me personally, I have a little motto.. I try to make what I can make so I have the money left over to afford what I can't make.. Works out well and I think many have benefited from making the SFX and having something left over for nice pedals, osw etc.

ThugUK · Aug 8, 2019

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
I haven't seen anyone detail the cost of building the SFX100 actuators including the tools needed (all of them , for someone that doesn't have any tools!)... I just wonder if it ends up more expensive that some commercial solutions in the end...

Regarding the cost of tools, I had most of them already in except a 3D printer (had no idea what so ever how to use one) and a couple of other. But here is a break down of what I used and what I think they may (or did) cost.

Necessary:
3D Printer (Creality Ender 2) = £95
Filament (3 rolls) = £50
T handled hex keys (full set, although you only use 3 or 4) = £15
Screwdriver (for connecting wires) = £3
Liquid thread lock = £5
Grease gun (mini one) plus nipples = £10

Not necessary (but comes in handy):
File (to file the sliders if they are too tight and possible bur on extrusions) = £5
Reamer (not necessary but I used one to open the holes so my bushes would go in easier) = £3
Cutting oil so the threads cut easier = £8
Oil/lube (for sliders etc) = £5
Spray glue (I used this to stick the feet on) - £2
Degreaser to clean the tubes = £3
Hammer (to help the sliders in if too tight) = £3
Ferrite cores (if you have EMI issues) = £10
Mole grips (to hold ball screw shaft whilst you tighten nut) = £5

There are a few other things you may need like a rag to clean things as you put them together, a stick to help clean the inside of tubes (push a cloth through), a piece of wood to hit with your hammer so you don't damage anything.

So you are looking at about £180 (£220 if you buy everything) if you don't have any tools at all and that includes your 3D printer. These are rough prices, so may be a little higher/lower, but will equal out.

I may have missed something off, but it gives a rough idea.

Then there is the cost of the actuators themselves, roughly £1,500.

Tronicgr_6DOF said:
And its not only the parts and tools, work hours to put this together makes me wonder if its truly cheaper. Perhaps its just not cheap for busy people with no spare time (me included).

Only you know what your time is worth.

If you have no spare time at all then why would you want a motion rig in the first place as you obviously wont have any spare time to use it.

If you have no spare time due to work, then that is really sad. If your spare time is better spent watching rubbish on TV than building something like this then that's a shame. If its better spent with family then that is fair enough and understandable.
The printing can take 2 weeks, but your effort in this is maybe only an hour or so.
Assembling the actuators and setting everything up takes maybe half a day, but doesn't need doing all in one day.

Tronicgr_6DOF · Aug 8, 2019

Ok gentlemen, Thanks for your input. Fantastic responses!

I guess you can't really compare the two. Its like comparing apples with oranges...
And just to let you know, I'm all for DIY too. Its what drives innovation after all.

NeedforSim · Aug 8, 2019

I think a nice use case for people that can't afford PT-actuator systems but need more flexibility, in terms of game support, actuator specs, etc. offered by a SFX -100 system , would be a modified SFX-100 system (ex: with 150mm or 200mm stroke, 1610 ball screw for faster speed, etc) paired with Thanos AMC-AASD15A controller.

Ringorian · Aug 8, 2019

NeedforSim said:
I think a nice use case for people that can't afford PT-actuator systems but need more flexibility, in terms of game support, actuator specs, etc. offered by a SFX -100 system , would be a modified SFX-100 system (ex: with 150mm or 200mm stroke, 1610 ball screw for faster speed, etc) paired with Thanos AMC-AASD15A controller.

You need to play with the Servo Controller P98 to use it with the arduino controller

You can try it without the Ball screw attached and count the rounds the Motor does .. For 10 cm you need 10 Rounds with a 1610 / 20 with a 1605

I didnt tried it since i have no 1610 or longer strokes .. just guessing

- Check what happens when you reduce the P98 to 10 .. i thinks you get half the stroke (~5cm)
- with a 1610 Ball Bearing reduce P98 to 10 with the standard stroke could do the job
- Stroke 150 mm could be P98 to 30 with 1605
be carefull and reduce speed when experimenting .. but the good thing is that the plastic parts are cheap to change with a printer