The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

anton_Chez · Apr 29, 2019

Out new star of the thread, @Pyronious .... !

Megahowler · Apr 29, 2019

Spoke to Kinetik today.. order going out Friday apparently

so I'm happy.. but wont be purchasing the motors until I have the Alu Profile in my hands.

Also purchasing a 2nd 3D printer... I'm hooked on them now

saxxon66 · Apr 29, 2019

C64 said:
In normal operation the fixed bearing mount takes the most forces through it but it is very strong. The way I see it the forces are transmitted mostly by the perimeters ( mainly around the bolt holes ), the infill stabilises the perimeters, I Don’t understand the purpose of the solid layer every 20 layers. The motor mount and linear bearing mount are massively strong for the loads that they need to transmit.

The idea behind the solid layer is different from what it is supposed to be.
In normal use this is for esthetics of the print, here I used it to act like a double T-section girder.

Here is my auto translation from the German forum, hope it makes sense.

“This is about statics and dynamics of the component and not, as in most 3D printing projects, about optimizing the print in terms of aesthetics.
The principle of the intermediate layers corresponds to that of a double-T beam.
They provide a greater moment of inertia of the surface and thus increase the bending strength.
This is important in the components that have a bearing in their middle, e.g. for the sliding bearing (bottom) and the fixed bearing (top)."

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

C64 · Apr 29, 2019

I would argue that these components are not really being used like beams and if they were the solid layers are at 90 degrees to forces being transmitted and really not serving any purpose other than tieing the outer perimeters of the mounts together... which are really only there for cosmetic purposes. From what I can tell the vertical loads transmitted from the fixed bearing into the mount and then into the 4 bolts in the 100x100 are shear loads that only really involve the solid material in the centre area of the mount - there are no loads being transmitted by way of a beam or bending.

There are only sideways load on the linear bearing mount - no vertical loads ( a bearing wont allow it )... so these are pure sideway shear loads as well.

iigator · Apr 29, 2019

Work in proguess

saxxon66 · Apr 29, 2019

C64 said:
I would argue that these components are not really being used like beams and if they were the solid layers are at 90 degrees to forces being transmitted and really not serving any purpose other than tieing the outer perimeters of the mounts together... which are really only there for cosmetic purposes. From what I can tell the vertical loads transmitted from the fixed bearing into the mount and then into the 4 bolts in the 100x100 are shear loads that only really involve the solid material in the centre area of the mount - there are no loads being transmitted by way of a beam or bending.

There are only sideways load on the linear bearing mount - no vertical loads ( a bearing wont allow it )... so these are pure sideway shear loads as well.

The linear bearing on the bottom needs to withstand the radial forces, not axial.
Have a look at the discord to see a broken mount (#troubleshooting, BWM 04/21/2019).
And these layers will join the infill to make a t-junction (up/down) to make it stiffer for radial forces.
But it did broke anyway, having these solid layers. I asked because I could not see them on the image.

MeNoMoney · Apr 29, 2019

iigator said:
Work in proguess

Amazing mate. Is that a gutted out Pc case ?

iigator · Apr 29, 2019

MeNoMoney said:
Amazing mate. Is that a gutted out Pc case ?

Hi...thanks...yes it is a pc case(Nox coolbay cx)
But has been modified to the extreme

C64 · Apr 29, 2019

saxxon66 said:
The linear bearing on the bottom needs to withstand the radial forces, not axial.
Have a look at the discord to see a broken mount (#troubleshooting, BWM 04/21/2019).
And these layers will join the infill to make a t-junction (up/down) to make it stiffer for radial forces.
But it did broke anyway, having these solid layers. I asked because I could not see them on the image.

I think language is getting in the way a little

... "Sideways load" = "Radial force" , "Vertical load" = "Axial"
I still don't see how the solid layers contribute to transmitting the radial force from the linear bearing, through the solid perimeters around the bolt holes and into the 4 bolts fixing the mount to the 100x100 - my understanding is the forces are being transmitted by Shear forces in the material... which is the best way. if I wanted to strengthen the part I would add material in the area between the linear bearing bolt holes and 100x100 bolt holes.

I think the failure BWM had looked like the leg over extended and put a large tensile force into the linear bearing mount and effectively pulled it apart, the solid layers would have helped resist this a bit - but not much. I don't think it would be sensible to try and design to resist this force... probably better to let this part fracture and prevent some other component being over-stressed.

Number 20Seven · Apr 29, 2019

ThugUK said:
How long did rc-letmathe take with the ball screws?
I ordered mine on the 14th April and still no parcel number.

They are telling me ball screws will be shipped first week of May

ThugUK said:
How long did rc-letmathe take with the ball screws?
I ordered mine on the 14th April and still no parcel number.

They sent me an email saying they are getting new stock in the first of may

Flag Ghost · Apr 29, 2019

Here are some wire clips for 40 x 120 / 40 x 160 profile. One simply holds the wire within the profile's slots, the rest do this as well as provide channels outside the profile. These were designed for Misumi profile so YMMV. These will only work if they are somewhat flexible - Use PETG. Let me know and I can post STL's.

leeroy605 · Apr 29, 2019

Just got my 3D printed parts through (thanks @HoiHman

, cannot recommend him enough) and thought I'd try putting them up against my actuator internals.

How big of an issue is it that the ball screw does not sit completely flush against the top of the 3D printed slider? On only one of mine does it sit flush and is obviously a tolerance issue with the parts from NTL. The gap is very small (we're talking 1-2mm here) but its definitely there. Photo attached.

HoiHman · Apr 29, 2019

leeroy605 said:
Just got my 3D printed parts through (thanks @HoiHman , cannot recommend him enough) and thought I'd try putting them up against my actuator internals.

How big of an issue is it that the ball screw does not sit completely flush against the top of the 3D printed slider? On only one of mine does it sit flush and is obviously a tolerance issue with the parts from NTL. The gap is very small (we're talking 1-2mm here) but its definitely there. Photo attached.

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the recommendation, but the 3D printing for a few friends has been such a task that i will not be offering to this anymore.

It's pretty important that the ball screw sits completely flush, because it transfers all the forces on to the slider and from there on to the rod. I would recommend a spacer to fill out the gap. I believe there's enough headroom to add a 1-2mm spacer in there, but perhaps @saxxon66 could comment if this is possible.

I checked your the sliders with the spare ball screw i have on the shelf and it went in all the way, completely flush.

I will forward you question on the discord channel. If @saxxon66 gives the OK, i can print 4 spacers for you.

Snajrog · Apr 29, 2019

May I bother someone to tell me what the length of the leads are off the servo motor itself (motor to barrel connectors). Currently not at home and I'm working through a mental project. TIA

TRC7 · Apr 29, 2019

Snajrog said:
May I bother someone to tell me what the length of the leads are off the servo motor itself (motor to barrel connectors). Currently not at home and I'm working through a mental project. TIA

From the motor to the end of the barrel connector is just 23"

Snajrog · Apr 29, 2019

TRC7 said:
From the motor to the end of the barrel connector is just 23"

Thank you!

leeroy605 · Apr 29, 2019

HoiHman said:
Hi Lee,

Thanks for the recommendation.

It's pretty important that the ball screw sits completely flush, because it transfers all the forces on to the slider and from there on to the rod. I would recommend a spacer to fill out the gap. I believe there's enough headroom to add a 1-2mm spacer in there, but perhaps @saxxon66 could comment if this is possible.

I checked your the sliders with the spare ball screw i have on the shelf and it went in all the way, completely flush.

I will forward you question on the discord channel. If @saxxon66 gives the OK, i can print 4 spacers for you.

Henk to the rescue! Sending you a PM now, although I think I may have found a solution myself.

And I must stress to anyone else in this thread the problem was with NTL stuff, not Henks 3D prints. If you need these parts printed for you he's your man

.

GeniFx · Apr 29, 2019

Got that gap on 7 of 8 of my ball screws aswell. Was planting og trying to dremel them flush.

Wmacky · Apr 30, 2019

I asked this a while back with no response, but as I'm at the need to know stage, I'll ask again.What AWG wire are you guys using to power each driver. I'm thinking 16awg or 18awg?