The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Mascot · Mar 25, 2019

C64 said:
test with 1200rpm, if all seems good then move on to 3000rpm.

I'm still not 100% sure exactly what the difference is.

anton_Chez · Mar 25, 2019

I think it just allows you to achieve a faster response with the sliders. That's the key. Jochen put a post in the Discord (I think) which showed that 199 max speed = 3000rpm approximately, then 190 outputs maybe 2700rpm, and so on down the line. So, for any user with a max speed setting of like 100 (like me and anyone using some of the profiles I've dropped in the Discord), you're probably not even hitting 1200rpm maximum anyway. So making your drivers set at 3000rpm is basically making hardly any difference.

Picture this:

Servo drivers @ 3000rpm, max speed slider @ 200 = 3000rpm (very fast)

Servo drivers @ 1200rpm, max speed slider @ 200 = 1200rpm (still fast)

Servo drivers @ 1200rpm, max speed slider @ 100 = probably still 1200rpm (can be certain)

The driver setting just allows the software to access a higher rpm for the motors to run at. However, changing the setting with the exact same slider setting at or under 100 probably won't change anything at all. It's only when you move that slider up around 150 and higher that the software will be able to now access and output the higher rpm.

I hope I've assumed that correctly.

Pyronious · Mar 26, 2019

NeedforSim said:
About manufacturing PCB's in China, I found this site: https://jlcpcb.com/

Thanks! I actually have a test batch on order from this very company. They come highly recommended.

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 26, 2019

Pyronious said:
Thanks! I actually have a test batch on order from this very company. They come highly recommended.

ok, I will make an order and see what happens.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 26, 2019

Realised it was a better idea to have the power strip outside the box to have access to the individual on/off switches if needed. I think I’ll attach it to the back of the box on some screws and then plug in the Accuforce and buttkickers too.

One question though they are all grounded to the outer case any issue with the fact they are all touching?

Could of had it up and running tonight I reckon if it wasn’t for this bloody ball nut!

RowanH · Mar 26, 2019

As there's been a bunch of photos of driver wiring.

Thought I would mention for newcomers looking at wiring of drivers, don't forget (or you might not realise) that each country has different colours, and some countries use the same colours in reverse contexts, and some countries have different colours pre/post certain years. Be very careful.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 26, 2019

Im just coming to the end of my build now. (A new custom 80:20 rig and the SFX-100). I thought i'd post things I wish I had known or thought about before hand.

When building your actuators dont forget to slide your mounting bolts into the profile. Try to picture how you intend to fix them to your rig and place the nuts accordingly. If you dont, you'll have to strip the actuators down to put them in.

When fixing the motor mount to the actuator think where you would like the slot to be. (The slot that is used to access the coupler) All 4 of mine are different and its driving me nuts - Arrggh.

You'll need an M3 bolt to help remove the key from the motor. (The instructions do tell you this, but you might not realise until youre at that point - like me)

Hopefully i'll be up and running tonight.....

Furnace Inferno · Mar 26, 2019

RowanH said:
As there's been a bunch of photos of driver wiring.

Thought I would mention for newcomers looking at wiring of drivers, don't forget (or you might not realise) that each country has different colours, and some countries use the same colours in reverse contexts, and some countries have different colours pre/post certain years. Be very careful.

Added not above first picture to avoid confusion.

anton_Chez · Mar 26, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
When fixing the motor mount to the actuator think where you would like the slot to be. (The slot that is used to access the coupler) All 4 of mine are different and its driving me nuts - Arrggh.

Once you've done the coupling, it's super easy to remove the bolts and just rotate them to the orientation you want. I've got all 4 of mine facing the inside of the chassis.

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 26, 2019

Me and a friend could not wait for the circuit board to arrive so we made this temporary mess yesterday.

Everything works and it feels awesome.

What can I do to make the high pitched sound from the controllers to go away?

Pyronious · Mar 26, 2019

Dennis Karlsson said:
ok, I will make an order and see what happens.

Ok, sounds good! Make sure you also order the parts from Digi-Key noted in the Bill of Materials spreadsheet. You’ll need to solder those parts onto the PCB after it arrives from China. I’ll try to put together a video about that process in the next few days.

I’m still investigating the possibility of having fully assembled boards fabricated in China, but I don’t have any new information to share on this yet. DIY kits will almost certainly be an option - still a few logistics to work though there and a formal announcement should be forthcoming.

Mascot · Mar 26, 2019

Dennis Karlsson said:
What can I do to make the high pitched sound from the controllers to go away?

At the moment, not a lot. There's been discussion on the Discord about it but people have been warned against opening the drivers up as there are high powered capacitors in there. Lots of different settings have been tried to try and eliminate it too.

Common opinion is that the noise is a 10kHz signal from some component in the drivers, and it looks like you, same as me, are sensitive to that pitch. A lot of people cannot hear it.
I'm probably going to be building a sealed enclosure from a cooler box, maybe with acoustic foam inside, as a way of containing the sound. Stopping it at source would be the best solution, but we need an electronics expert to isolate it and recommend the best remedial action. Until then, containment might be the only option.

If anyone wants to know what it sounds like (and whether you might be affected by it) just play a 10kHz audio signal from YouTube on your phone, or use a signal generating app. It's a good method of trying different containment/damping solutions too.

sebna · Mar 26, 2019

Mascot said:
At the moment, not a lot. There's been discussion on the Discord about it but people have been warned against opening the drivers up as there are high powered capacitors in there. Lots of different settings have been tried to try and eliminate it too.

Common opinion is that the noise is a 10kHz coil whine signal from the some component in the drivers, and it looks like you, same as me, are sensitive to that pitch. A lot of people cannot hear it.
I'm probably going to be building a sealed enclosure from a cooler box, maybe with acoustic foam inside, as a way of containing the sound. Stopping it at source would be the best solution, but we need an electronics expert to isolate it and recommend the best remedial action. Until then, containment might be the only option.

If anyone wants to know what it sounds like (and whether you might be affected by it) just play a 10kHz audio signal from YouTube on your phone, or use a signal generating app. It's a good method of trying different containment/damping solutions too.

Good to know

I am sensitive to both 5k and 10k spikes

- my other hobby is audio. I sell / return all audio gear which has spikes in those frequencies

No SFX-100 for me until it is resolved either with sound dampening or with proper addressing

Great find guys.

sberns · Mar 26, 2019

Re: the coil whine - I have a DIY simwind setup running with an Arduino and Simtools. There was a terrible associated coil whine initially until someone suggested using inductors between the power and fans. I do not have an electronics background so forgive me if this makes no sense but I wonder if properly sized inductors could help reduce the whine...
https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...using-monstermoto-and-arduinouno.6876/page-14

NM, those are DC fans so this probably doesn’t apply.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 27, 2019

Ok I’ve now tested everything connected to the Arduino in AC and it’s all working fine, even the emergency stop button.

One thing though I’ve put the coupling on and then attached the motor but when I went to pull it off it just slipped straight off leaving the coupling behind! I then just tried tightening it directly to the coupling sand pulling again but it still doesn’t split into two?!

sn4il · Mar 27, 2019

Common opinion is that the noise is a 10kHz coil whine signal from the some component in the drivers, and it looks like you, same as me, are sensitive to that pitch. A lot of people cannot hear it.

Are you sure these people can not hear it or they just don't have that problem?
It might be something simple as cable management? If servo motor cables are shielded, try to ground that shield at both ends.
I should have my motors and drives this week and will definitely investigate.

ScottSonder · Mar 27, 2019

Working out the last details of assembly now, I'm back on thinking about the coupler and how some people have used threadlocker on it. Has a shaft retaining compound like Loctite 609 ever been considered here? I think that's actually made for this purpose, but I haven't seen anyone mention it. This might just be another more industrial threadlocker, not sure, but it's specified for loose fitting cylindrical parts, so figured I'd ask the thread.

acekrusty23 · Mar 27, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Working out the last details of assembly now, I'm back on thinking about the coupler and how some people have used threadlocker on it. Has a shaft retaining compound like Loctite 609 ever been considered here? I think that's actually made for this purpose, but I haven't seen anyone mention it. This might just be another more industrial threadlocker, not sure, but it's specified for loose fitting cylindrical parts, so figured I'd ask the thread.

Loctite epoxy weld might work. I didn’t use it but probably should have. If mine start to slip I will give it a go.

Mascot · Mar 27, 2019

sn4il said:
Are you sure these people can not hear it or they just don't have that problem?
It might be something simple as cable management? If servo motor cables are shielded, try to ground that shield at both ends.
I should have my motors and drives this week and will definitely investigate.

Several of us did tests using a mic and app, and everyone had the same 10kHz spike, even those who literally couldn't hear it.

Some don't hear it, some hear it but it doesn't bother them, some find it torture. Seems to be a physiological difference between people and how sensitive their hearing is to different frequencies.

There has also been lots of work done with shielding cables, extra grounding, separate power supplies, isolating the drivers from EMI... nothing so far has worked. The whine just seems to be a feature of the electronics. A brave anonymous soul even opened up a capacitor and gunned silicone onto the coils inside (don't try this at home, kids)... no dice.

Furnace Inferno · Mar 27, 2019

Mascot said:
Several of us did tests using a mic and app, and everyone had the same 10kHz spike, even those who literally couldn't hear it.

Some don't hear it, some hear it but it doesn't bother them, some find it torture. Seems to be a physiological difference between people and how sensitive their hearing is to different frequencies.

There has also been lots of work done with shielding cables, extra grounding, separate power supplies, isolating the drivers from EMI... nothing so far has worked. The whine just seems to be a feature of the electronics. A brave anonymous soul even opened up a capacitor and gunned silicone onto the coils inside (don't try this at home, kids)... no dice.

I would liken the the sound to being in a field with grasshoppers/crickets. Not overly annoying to me but it’s very distinctive, if I was watching a movie or just say in the room it would really annoy me but for its purpose meh not fussed.

Can anybody help with my question on how to detach the motor with the coupling from the ball screw side to tighten it, what’s the technique?