Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Ok so I will pick this up today ,aiwa av-nw30
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Will run shakers from the sub woofer out, will any amp do, as I have 2 car amps( 600watts and a 300watts). which i was going to use alone. what are the benifits (if any) by using the Aiwa.
 
Has anyone had any issues with their Dayton exciters failing? I've been super careful not to drive them hard. One failed within about 20 seconds — which got replaced. Now the other one has started buzzing.
I've had one fail recently. I was running the kerb effects pretty hard through them and one failed mid race.

I replaced it and added another 2 exciters by wiring them in series (now running 4 exciters off the original 2 channels). They're now running much lower to give the same effect... as there's twice as many of them.

I use my other exciters for road texture and road bumps. They're more subtle effects and aren't pushed hard. Don't expect any issues from them setup like this.

Surprised you've had one go bad, since it seems like you're not trying to push them too hard.
 
Are you running game audio through the DSP or just Simhub?

I've always been a bit confused as the need for DSP if using Simhub as you can control all your frequencies in software.
Sorry, forgot to reply. Running SimHub through DSP. The main benefit I find is that you can tune the level at specific frequencies, where SimHUb only allow you to set the frequency range, overall gain and tweak slightly more on certain effects.

I don't see DSP as necessary on exciters (though I'm sure @MrLate prefers to have the additional control on all units), but it's pretty much a must for LFE's in my view.
 
>I bought (and returned) a kit from Sim Racing Studios that included a ShakeSeat (4 transducers inside) which is essentially what you are making. I have a GS-105 G Seat and it has a 'not so soft' seat so I could not get comfortable as I felt the rear transducers

Yes, hence my idea to mount the transducers in 1" of fairly solid foam like an industrial kneeling pad - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impacto-MAT5050-14x21-inch-Handy-Kneeling/dp/B00BUZYX8O
so they don't stick out from the foam. Then just a thin layer over the top.
This size exactly fits front/rear and between the bolsters.
 
Sorry, forgot to reply. Running SimHub through DSP. The main benefit I find is that you can tune the level at specific frequencies, where SimHUb only allow you to set the frequency range, overall gain and tweak slightly more on certain effects.

I don't see DSP as necessary on exciters (though I'm sure @MrLate prefers to have the additional control on all units), but it's pretty much a must for LFE's in my view.

Makes sense when you start mixing a ton of stuff together. I think I've mostly been confused as to the reason for having external DSPs when you can pretty much do everything needed using Equalizer APO in software. Sure it might take up 1% of CPU, but doubt it has any real impact.
 
hi friends! sorry help if possible! I read a lot of pages here ... but could not find the answer to two questions
1. Tell me what is the thickness of the wire for the Aura shaker (4th - 50 watts) - what is the thickness? I was told that 2.5 square
and on Shaker Dayton they are 30 watts 16 ohms - they told me that 1.5 squares is enough ...

2. I didn’t quite understand how the shaker differs from Exciters? what is the difference ? what are they for and where are they best placed

Thank you very much for any answer.
 
Makes sense when you start mixing a ton of stuff together. I think I've mostly been confused as to the reason for having external DSPs when you can pretty much do everything needed using Equalizer APO in software. Sure it might take up 1% of CPU, but doubt it has any real impact.
TBH, I tried using Equalizer APO, but just couldn't get to grips with it and gave up pretty quickly. I've used many music, 2D design, 3D design, animation packages, etc... over the years, but this seemed extremely unuser friendly for what it is. Shame, as it does look like a useful tool for what we're using it for.
 
...
Tell me what is the thickness of the wire for the Aura shaker (4th - 50 watts) - what is the thickness? I was told that 2.5 square
and on Shaker Dayton they are 30 watts 16 ohms - they told me that 1.5 squares is enough ...

Thinner gauge wires (higher AWG number) are more resistive. Longer wires are also more resistive. Copper clad aluminum wires are more resistive than pure copper. In choosing the appropriate gauge speaker wire, you want to consider your speaker impedance and length of your cable. Here’s a handy chart and a link to the article in which it appears, in case you want to dig deeper.
164EC858-DE44-4D30-9C9C-BCF12E5F36CD.jpeg

I am personally using 14 AWG copper wires for my 8 Ohm BK transducers and Dayton Audio exciters.
 
>Yes, hence my idea to mount the transducers in 1" of fairly solid foam like an industrial kneeling pad - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impacto-MAT5050-14x21-inch-Handy-Kneeling/dp/B00BUZYX8O
so they don't stick out from the foam. Then just a thin layer over the top.
This size exactly fits front/rear and between the bolsters.

That just might work. The seatshakers padding was soft but others I've 'talked' to had no complants but they had different seats and everyone's body is different too.

Best of luck and let us know how it works out.
 
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Recently changed my sim rig and opted once again to have the shakers directly attached to the car seat.

I am dealing with those cheap 20€ 100W RMS shakers of course, and you have to play to their strengths.

When attached to a rigid structure (metal or wood) they are strong above ~43hz but useless bellow 38hz. That is a big frequency range I was losing.

But when you place them on a loose structure (attached to the seat springs!!) they become very very strong between 28~33hz. The entire rig shakes much more than when I had them directly on the metal. I got nausea from such a strong low hz shaking.

anyhow, here is a pic of what I'm talking about

jxhukm4.jpg


The disadvantage of using a real car seat, is that the structure and materials aren't symmetrical so you have different strengths between left/right even though the shakers are positioned in mirror positions.
 
So....the journey begins:

Amp:

Exciters (4x):

Seat:

As noted above, I've installed the Exciters using the low-profile 3M Dual-Lock. I purchased 3x5" rectangles. But, there are tons of options. The adhesive section on the exciter is 1.75" in diameter. I don't see any reason to use anything stronger. The tactile comes through very well (granted I don't have anything to compare it to). BUt, I have to use a putty knife to remove these...they won't just pull off. But, catch the edge of a putty knife between the layers and pry...and it pops right off.


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At the moment I've installed the 4 exciters here:

20200619_132006.jpg


The front two work really well. The two lower-lumber, not so much. I think the issue is that I don't make contact with that part of the seat. I think I need to move them in and up to where my lower back is actually touching. There's just a thick layer of fabric on the inside, and the seat is actually a bit big for me (it was the passenger seat in my racecar, so I bought it for "larger" passsengers).

I have a ProADV in the shop that fits like a glove. I might try that, instead. the only issue is that its a full containment seat with halo. Kinda big, and don't really need a halo! Alternatively, I could make a seat insert for this seat to help fill the empty space and tranfer the energy to my skin.

Simhub Profile:

At the moment, I'm using RomainRob's profile. I tweaked some volumes and turned off some extraneous effects. But, in general it worked very well...for a first attempt. I think I need to get the exciter locations dialed in a bit more (and maybe order another round of 4 ;-). Then maybe I'll be able to comprehend the effect manipulation a bit more.
 
My reckhorn bs 200i arrived today running through a Aiwa Surround sound sub woofer out to a 200w amp using this as a front shaker , with a buttkicker gamer2 as a rear shaker.... Have set the front at a lower power level than the rear and so far .I'm loving it.. but is this the best way to set levels or should they be the same?
 
...
The front two work really well. The two lower-lumber, not so much. I think the issue is that I don't make contact with that part of the seat. I think I need to move them in and up to where my lower back is actually touching. There's just a thick layer of fabric on the inside, and the seat is actually a bit big for me (it was the passenger seat in my racecar, so I bought it for "larger" passsengers).
...
Thanks for sharing these observations. I’m currently trying to figure out the best placement for 4 Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 exciters on my Sparco seat. I’d initially thought of placing them in similar positions to those you’ve shown, but did some analysis yesterday to see where my body makes most firm and direct contact with the seat. As a result, I’m leaning toward put one pair on the shoulder support area and another just outside The bottom of my thigh.
 
My reckhorn bs 200i arrived today running through a Aiwa Surround sound sub woofer out to a 200w amp using this as a front shaker , with a buttkicker gamer2 as a rear shaker.... Have set the front at a lower power level than the rear and so far .I'm loving it.. but is this the best way to set levels or should they be the same?

Glad to hear you're enjoying the reckhorn.

There's no need to have the levels set equally. Two different shakers in two different locations so go with what feels right to you, just as you are already doing :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for sharing these observations. I’m currently trying to figure out the best placement for 4 Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 exciters on my Sparco seat. I’d initially thought of placing them in similar positions to those you’ve shown, but did some analysis yesterday to see where my body makes most firm and direct contact with the seat. As a result, I’m leaning toward put one pair on the shoulder support area and another just outside The bottom of my thigh.

That's exactly why I went with the Dual Lock. I wanted to be able to try several locations without fighting the VHB. My guess is that the Sparco is a better choice than than my aluminum. the aluminum is so rigid, that it just doesn't "move". The exciter does all the motion instead of the seat surface. On the other hand, the aluminum makes a great audible range speaker. I left the amp on the other night after closing simhub, and my PC reverted the audio. I got a Windows sound alert and it LIT-UP my seat, clear as a bell. Scared the bejesus :)) )out of me.
 
Thanks for sharing these observations. I’m currently trying to figure out the best placement for 4 Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 exciters on my Sparco seat. I’d initially thought of placing them in similar positions to those you’ve shown, but did some analysis yesterday to see where my body makes most firm and direct contact with the seat. As a result, I’m leaning toward put one pair on the shoulder support area and another just outside The bottom of my thigh.

From what I've seen, doing the 2 on the bolster of the seat makes quite a big difference as well. My plan is this for the 8 that I will be attaching.

Edit: Those arrows indicate under the legs on the front of the seat.
Inked20200619_161442_LI-min.jpg
 
Why would you do that? Its there. Its sticky. No, I just stuck the VHB adhesive to the Dual-Lock Adhesive. :)

Stick+Sticky=Extra Sticky.

Ahh, I see. I thought you may had been experimenting with moving them around and the original glue had lost its strength.

I think I've found the best locations on my seat that will be in the most contact with my body and will stick them on as they've come. I will will pick up some of that low profile dual lock though, when I inevitably decide that they'll work better in another location :)
 
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