Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Hi guys

So I have been going through the pages the last couple of days and lots of good info. Unfortunately I am kind of a noob when it comes to this stuff and a lot of it is over my head. I'm asking for a bit of assistance and guidance please.

I have a simlab P1-x cockpit and purchased the BK Mini LFE mounts (2 for now) and also have 2 BK mini LFEs as well. I was thinking to start with 2 by the seat and then later expand and add 2 more on the front by the pedals, again using the same mounts. I am not looking for anything crazy or perfection, just a clean look and relatively decent setup. I am not looking to expand this any further the the 4 minis, 1 on each corners.

With that said, can someone point me to what they think the best amp would be to run this? I am assuming I should be running this in chassis mode with signals coming independently from each corner, but I am not sure.

Based on the what I could gather, this is what I narrowed down to- if you have other suggestions for my setup, please let me know if there a cheaper options available

the t.amp E4-130
the t.amp E4-250
Behringer NX1000D

Behringer NX3000D

What exact cables do I need to be able to connect the amp with my SoundBlaster 5.1 sound card?

Hopefully I didnt forget anything.

Thanks so much
 
You do realise there are a lot of Soundblaster 5.1 cards so you need to be more specific for the one you have so we see if it has all 3.5mm jacks or like some do using RCA for the main L/R pair and 3.5mm for the rest. It may also depend on what amp you go with as to what type of connection you need as well.

Amps like the NX1000D come with beneficial DSP to better tune the amp's output to match the transducer/shaker being used and one advantage is more control over the dreaded piston pang issue these units have.

However, these are only 2 channel amps so it would require 2x amps for 4 channels
The t.amp units are okay but nothing special. Decent performers and some users on these forums have them I believe.

If you want to pass on the recommended DSP controls then annother amp brand to consider is Stageline.
They have amp models 1504/1506/1508 that will power 4 ohm transducers offering from 4 channel upto an 8 channel model with 160W output per channel in a single amp. So a single amp option that could power 8x small BK Mini for future if desired.

The main drawback with these is that unlike the Behringer NXD series of amps, if you ever decided to go for one of the largest BK shakers then 160w is not enough and wont suffice. Yet the Behringer NX1000D can power the largest 2ohm Buttkicker Concert no problems, with excellent upgradability potential.

The NX1000D is the most versatile, best-suited amp for wattage/specs/performance for tactile usage and for the money. Hundreds if not thousands of sim owners use the 1000 or 3000 based models or the older i-Nuke DSP models that I still own.

Note: Pro Audio - PA type amps will have loud fans but often these can be easily swapped.
 
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So....I seem to have damaged TWO Exciters. Both have broken spring arms. I'm guessing it happened while running (or rather WRECKING) NASCAR trucks at Daytona vs, my usual MX-5. The G-effect of impact for a NASCAR truck on a high-bank oval is a little higher than the MX-5 into a road course tire-wall.

I'm using the Douk M4 with Simhub Master Audio set to 55%, and the M4 knobs at ~1:00. With the MX-5 I didn't notice any overdriving of the Exciters using these settings. I don't have the high-pass filter option set in Simhub, I guess I should do that @ 35 Hz or so? Any other recommended changes to minimize the risk of damaging the Exciters?

ETA: strike that....turns out I DO have the output filter set to 40-200 Hz, in Simhub for the soundcard driving the exciters. Hmm.....
 
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You do realise there are a lot of Soundblaster 5.1 cards so you need to be more specific for the one you have so we see if it has all 3.5mm jacks or like some do using RCA for the main L/R pair and 3.5mm for the rest. It may also depend on what amp you go with as to what type of connection you need as well.

Amps like the NX1000D come with beneficial DSP to better tune the amp's output to match the transducer/shaker being used and one advantage is more control over the dreaded piston pang issue these units have.

However, these are only 2 channel amps so it would require 2x amps for 4 channels
The t.amp units are okay but nothing special. Decent performers and some users on these forums have them I believe.

If you want to pass on the recommended DSP controls then annother amp brand to consider is Stageline.
They have amp models 1504/1506/1508 that will power 4 ohm transducers offering from 4 channel upto an 8 channel model with 160W output per channel in a single amp. So a single amp option that could power 8x small BK Mini for future if desired.

The main drawback with these is that unlike the Behringer NXD series of amps, if you ever decided to go for one of the largest BK shakers then 160w is not enough and wont suffice. Yet the Behringer NX1000D can power the largest 2ohm Buttkicker Concert no problems, with excellent upgradability potential.

The NX1000D is the most versatile, best-suited amp for wattage/specs/performance for tactile usage and for the money. Hundreds if not thousands of sim owners use the 1000 or 3000 based models or the older i-Nuke DSP models that I still own.

Note: Pro Audio - PA type amps will have loud fans but often these can be easily swapped.

Thanks so much for the reply Mr. Latte

This is the sound card I have and its 3.5mm on all connections it looks like, besides the optical.

Is it worth running in 4 channel mode, or is 2 channel relatively comparable and just go with the NX1000D with 4 mini LFE in each corner and call it a day? I believe the mini LFE is 4ohm

Assuming 2 channel is the way to go, and the NX1000D is enough to power 4 of these mini LFEs, what cables do I need to get everything hooked up?

If there is anything else I am forgetting, please let me know.

Thanks again very much for your help
 
Thanks so much for the reply Mr. Latte

This is the sound card I have and its 3.5mm on all connections it looks like, besides the optical.

Is it worth running in 4 channel mode, or is 2 channel relatively comparable and just go with the NX1000D with 4 mini LFE in each corner and call it a day? I believe the mini LFE is 4ohm

Assuming 2 channel is the way to go, and the NX1000D is enough to power 4 of these mini LFEs, what cables do I need to get everything hooked up?

If there is anything else I am forgetting, please let me know.

Thanks again very much for your help

Behringer NXD amps are only 2 channel not 4 but the point being raised is that they offer more control and are ready for the larger BK units.

4way for corners with 4x Mini LFE is not necessarily the best option for immersion or starting with.
My advice woud be to consider

1x NX3000D amp
1x BK Mini LFE
1x BK Concert or LFE

Install the large unit on the seat and the Mini on the pedals.
The reason for this is that most rigs I can assure you will not be getting very good stereo operation from using 4 Way. People will generally do very little to help improve the isolation of individual channels and stereo crosstalk happening with L/R mixing. Also you will see lots of people using the most basic/cheap isolators which only help a little but still on their own are not a highly successful solution for crosstalk issues.

Simply put, stereo based effects are a bit of a headache to get the most from them.
The easiest way is to use multiple exciters on the seat on each side and this can be more convincing.

4 Way CM
Rather than focus on numbers, focus on quality. Then build up from this if you want.

4x Mini LFE cost is close to £400
1x Mini LFE & 1x Large LFE is close to £400

4x Mini needs 2x Stereo Amps or an amp with at least 4 channels
1x Mini LFE & 1x LFE will work fine on a single NX3000D amp also giving you better tuning options with its DSP

I would then look at expanding by adding exciters to your seat or pedals after such an installation.
This then gives you effects detailing from the lowest bass to the full 200Hz range. This means quite simply you have much more scope when building effects to how their operating sensations feel and also how you can vary in felt sensation for different types of effects.


So....I seem to have damaged TWO Exciters. Both have broken spring arms. I'm guessing it happened while running (or rather WRECKING) NASCAR trucks at Daytona vs, my usual MX-5. The G-effect of impact for a NASCAR truck on a high-bank oval is a little higher than the MX-5 into a road course tire-wall.

I'm using the Douk M4 with Simhub Master Audio set to 55%, and the M4 knobs at ~1:00. With the MX-5 I didn't notice any overdriving of the Exciters using these settings. I don't have the high-pass filter option set in Simhub, I guess I should do that @ 35 Hz or so? Any other recommended changes to minimize the risk of damaging the Exciters?

ETA: strike that....turns out I DO have the output filter set to 40-200 Hz, in Simhub for the soundcard driving the exciters. Hmm.....

Hi Tom, can you show the effects you were running and settings?
We may need to reduce 30Hz EQ control or apply less gain to effect sliders that use 40Hz and below.
Its also likely on some peoples setups they have multiple effects or effects layers on individual units and I think these can only take so much of a pounding.

I think its better to use BK units for lower bass frequencies and limit the peak 40Hz usage or below on the exciters as well as redice the number of effects that operate at the same time on a single unit.

Give us your thoughts and an update, we should look to have a proper thread on the "exciter concept" in 2021 but looking at previous attempts at tactile threads, people seem to like to follow but not really like to participate when it comes to sharing effects or settings.
 
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I play about some more getting to grips with the X32
Nice lights are not just for Christmas :)



In my attempts to evaluate/study and learn more on effects operation/creation. By visibly monitoring the audio frequencies/harmonics that are being output to differing channels is rather cool. Here today with playing around with my new toy I got a bit of a surprise....


I wasn't sure this would be possible to connect the mixer both to the PC software and available iPad/Android wifi based software suites for the mixer. Additionally the ability to then on the iPad swap apps between the connected "wifi software suite" and additional connectivity with USB external iOS apps like AUM which offers a very nice and simple user interface.


AUM has a unique layout showing individual channels you add plugins or controls too.

Below a mix of different options





iPad Pro displaying the RTA with wifi based software tool compared to the Mixers own display.


What this means, is that other professional audio plugins like Fabfilter ProQ3 (often much cheaper on iOS) than on PC/Mac can be used on the iPad via AUM or other iOS audio applications.


So what Ive now got is not just an additional visual reference from the iPad but also the ability to apply and control additional professional audio plugins/tools via the iPad without the need for a full on DAW software solution. Simply I can get all the usage benefits with the mixer but also apply the benefits of pro audio plugins (like ProQ3) that I prefer for their added control and improved visuals to the Behringer EQ.

This I know will be over most peoples heads but for me on my own journey in what my own build contains or achieves with audio it's an exciting addition.
 
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Hi Tom, can you show the effects you were running and settings?
We may need to reduce 30Hz EQ control or apply less gain to effect sliders that use 40Hz and below.
Its also likely on some peoples setups they have multiple effects or effects layers on individual units and I think these can only take so much of a pounding.

I think its better to use BK units for lower bass frequencies and limit the peak 40Hz usage or below on the exciters as well as redice the number of effects that operate at the same time on a single unit.

Give us your thoughts and an update, we should look to have a proper thread on the "exciter concept" in 2021 but looking at previous attempts at tactile threads, people seem to like to follow but not really like to participate when it comes to sharing effects or settings.

Here it is:

1606662485233.png


1606662562861.png


You will probably recognize it as Romain Rob's profile, though I've tweaked a couple things. I changed the freq range on G-forces, and Wheel Slip. I found these two effects to be the most "useful", but they were hard to distinguish. So, I pushed slip up into the 150+ Hz range. Also, I expanded the freq range of both effects for a better sense of magnitude. I also tweaked the response curve for slip, so that it doesn't begin to respond until 90%, which is a little more like a real racecar.

Note I only have 4 exciters at this time---left/right Hip, left/right mid-back. Its a composite seat (expired FIA, Sparco Circuit Pro). I'm bought into your concepts for the BK+exciters. But, the BK takes real money, and there are competing priorities. So, I've started with the exciters, and will expand to the BK units as, priorties and money allows. I did buy another 4 exciters along with the replacements for the two that I killed. So, That will make 8 on the seat---unless I stick one on the brake pedal---for lock/ABS or something.

I agree on splitting out sub-threads. I only joined the forum this year. I've read this entire monster...but, it is a monster---and the concept, has evolved over time. So, not all of it is relevant anymore. Maybe a series of posts that all start with "Tactile: xxx" or something that would lend to easy searchng---and focussed discussions. Forums aren't the best place for deeply technical subject matter. But, I've seen that approach work reasonably well on other technical forums.
 
Behringer NXD amps are only 2 channel not 4 but the point being raised is that they offer more control and are ready for the larger BK units.

4way for corners with 4x Mini LFE is not necessarily the best option for immersion or starting with.
My advice woud be to consider

1x NX3000D amp
1x BK Mini LFE
1x BK Concert or LFE

Install the large unit on the seat and the Mini on the pedals.
The reason for this is that most rigs I can assure you will not be getting very good stereo operation from using 4 Way. People will generally do very little to help improve the isolation of individual channels and stereo crosstalk happening with L/R mixing. Also you will see lots of people using the most basic/cheap isolators which only help a little but still on their own are not a highly successful solution for crosstalk issues.

Simply put, stereo based effects are a bit of a headache to get the most from them.
The easiest way is to use multiple exciters on the seat on each side and this can be more convincing.

4 Way CM
Rather than focus on numbers, focus on quality. Then build up from this if you want.

4x Mini LFE cost is close to £400
1x Mini LFE & 1x Large LFE is close to £400

4x Mini needs 2x Stereo Amps or an amp with at least 4 channels
1x Mini LFE & 1x LFE will work fine on a single NX3000D amp also giving you better tuning options with its DSP

I would then look at expanding by adding exciters to your seat or pedals after such an installation.
This then gives you effects detailing from the lowest bass to the full 200Hz range. This means quite simply you have much more scope when building effects to how their operating sensations feel and also how you can vary in felt sensation for different types of effects.

Thanks again Mr. Latter. you have been such a help to me and everyone on this thread.

I think what I am going to go with for now is the below and will add one large LFE down the road-

2x Mini LFE
1x NX3000D amp

Can you give me a recommendation or let me know what cables/connectors I need to be able to connect the buttkickers to the amp and the amp to the sound card?

Thanks again so much. I think your replies and recommendation will help others that are in a similar boat as me.

Thanks
 
I have a chance to buy two mini-lfe for $150 usd total. I hadn't planned on the minis--just Exciters and full sized lfe.

Thoughts?

Tempting if your curious but I would try to find a large used LFE or Concert for about $200 or less . Many of my BK were 2nd hand bargains guys but once you go with the bigger units you will not want the smaller ones.
 
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Thanks again Mr. Latter. you have been such a help to me and everyone on this thread.

I think what I am going to go with for now is the below and will add one large LFE down the road-

2x Mini LFE
1x NX3000D amp

Can you give me a recommendation or let me know what cables/connectors I need to be able to connect the buttkickers to the amp and the amp to the sound card?

Thanks again so much. I think your replies and recommendation will help others that are in a similar boat as me.

Thanks

Your welcome... The cable guide linked at the start of this thread is a bit old and was focused on Simvibe but it should be of help.
 
Tempting if your curious but I would try to find a large used LFE or Concert for about $200 or less . Many of my BK were 2nd hand bargains guys but once you go with the bigger units you will not want the smaller ones.

Thanks. Yes, that has been my plan---these mini-lfe's just show up in the same search criteria, and thus caught my attention at that price. In fact, I got sniped on a BK-LFE last weekend in that price range---poor experience on my part in ebay bidding wars. I'll just keep trolling and remain focused on the final config, and working out the issues with my exciters, in the mean time.

I just wasn't sure of the mini-lfe would still have a roll to play, in a final config. Sounds like the answer is "not really/ideally".
 
Thanks. Yes, that has been my plan---these mini-lfe's just show up in the same search criteria, and thus caught my attention at that price. In fact, I got sniped on a BK-LFE last weekend in that price range---poor experience on my part in ebay bidding wars. I'll just keep trolling and remain focused on the final config, and working out the issues with my exciters, in the mean time.

I just wasn't sure of the mini-lfe would still have a roll to play, in a final config. Sounds like the answer is "not really/ideally".

For someone working more on a budget then yeah having one or more with the exciters, they can then distribute a large portion of the lower Hz from effects to the BK units. Still quite punchy but they lack the real depth with the lowest Hz. We essentially are using them in the same sense as being subwoofers and the exciters or indeed TST units more for the detailing.
 
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tldr: I'm looking for your simhub settings (Hz & percentages etc) in combination with the dayton pucks.

Hello everybody. Last week I made my first attempt with two 16ohm pucks and mounted them to my chair via the puckicker from thingiverse. AMP is one of the cheap nobsound from amazon.
I know that the mounting solution in combination with these small shakers haven't so much impact like a big one, but I have kind of a different problem.

At least with the standard simhub settings I can't feel any differences for the different effects. I expected some changes when dealing with the frequency values (between 20-80) but it seems that these shakers peak around 40hz and otherwise are very very weak. But if every necessary effect has the same frequency the feedback isnt so great. Maybe its just a settings issue, so please tell me how you setup your pucks with simhub.

Thanks in advance
 
tldr: I'm looking for your simhub settings (Hz & percentages etc) in combination with the dayton pucks.

Hello everybody. Last week I made my first attempt with two 16ohm pucks and mounted them to my chair via the puckicker from thingiverse. AMP is one of the cheap nobsound from amazon.
I know that the mounting solution in combination with these small shakers haven't so much impact like a big one, but I have kind of a different problem.

At least with the standard simhub settings I can't feel any differences for the different effects. I expected some changes when dealing with the frequency values (between 20-80) but it seems that these shakers peak around 40hz and otherwise are very very weak. But if every necessary effect has the same frequency the feedback isnt so great. Maybe its just a settings issue, so please tell me how you setup your pucks with simhub.

Thanks in advance
You can see mine up above. I have 4 DAEX32P-4 exciters, mounted to my left/right hips, and left/right middle back (between and below my shoulder blades). These are 4 ohm / 40 watt exciters.

I like the G, and wheel-slip effects the most. I've tuned the G-effects to start at a higher frequency of 120 Hz, and drop to 50 Hz as the G-load increases. I tried all sorts of combinations of higher/lower frequency ranges, wider/narrower bands. I liked 120-50Hz the best. It gave my brain what it needs to "sense" the G-load on the car.

Wheel slip I pushed to the upper end of the Exciter range 140 - 180 Hz. This makes it similar to how it feels in a real racecar with real race tires when traction begins to go. Street tires make a squeal, race tires make a scrubbing sound/feeling. Also, putting the slip out of the G-load range makes it easy to distinguish the two because G-load will always be active when slip starts to occur. So, you NEED to be able to tell them apart. I also changed the response curve for wheel slip. I set the threshold to 80%. So, I don't start to "feel" slip until I'm at the 80% mark and 140 Hz. Then it ramps from there to 180 Hz at 100%. I don't care and don't want to know that I'm getting 50% slip. I want to know when I'm on the edge, and I want enough separation between 80-100% to be able to feel the edge---and the slight differences from corner to corner.

I mostly turned off the road impacts. I only have them enabled so I can feel kerbs. Everything other than kerbs muddies the G-load and Wheel-Slip effects for my current setup. These effects are great for immersion, but not at the expense of valuable driver feedback. As my setup evolves, I'll evaluate these other effects when I can separate them sufficiently.

ETA: Since the G and Slip effects are 4 corner effects, slight differences in those effects from wheel to wheel will create slight frequency differences between each puck. These very slight difference manifest as "beat frequencies" to you senses. So you feel a "whomp-whomp-whomp" that gets faster or slower as the difference increases/decreases. This give you an ability to sense the difference, and create a sense memory for how the forces move around the car during the transition zones of a corner. You can use this effect to feel the transition on entry from trail-braking to stable mid-corner apex loads, then again as you roll on the throttle and open the wheel on exit. If you don't feel these transitions, you aren't exercising the edges of the friction circle very well, but rather are staying on the axes.
 
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For those with exciter setups, are you modding the existing effects, or creating new ones?

It seems many of the existing effects are set up like Simvibe, with a transducer at each corner? I'm trying to wrap my head around how you translate that to multiple exciters on the seat back?
 
For those with exciter setups, are you modding the existing effects, or creating new ones?

It seems many of the existing effects are set up like Simvibe, with a transducer at each corner? I'm trying to wrap my head around how you translate that to multiple exciters on the seat back?


Screamingbejsus has a great build thread on how he has setup his tactile effects. He has 8 Exciters and 4 large bk/tst units. Lots to learn from that discussion. He goes into a lot of detail about his effects, their placement and some thoughts on it.

 
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So here is my state of the tactile build so far. I am using 6 Dayton exciters as shown in the photos. I also ordered some isolators (thanks to @Mr Latte ) as the seat is currently directly mounted on the GT1 Evo chassis.
128440191_840087276827539_3624015228370698071_n.jpg

128775525_176293430835958_5713466083070512168_n.jpg


The exciters are powered by Douk M4 ( L/R shoulder and L/R bottom back) and Nobsound NS-01G (L/R sides) amps. I eventually will get a BK CT/LFE and possibly an Advance for the pedals (and an amp).

For now, I have tried Formula cars and GT cars (Porsche 911 RSR, Audi R8) in AC. Here is my Simhub profile for the 6 exciters. I think it can be tweaked for better separation of the effects? Any advice?
127542370_389802509135236_158681066071525880_n.png
 
tldr: I'm looking for your simhub settings (Hz & percentages etc) in combination with the dayton pucks.

Hello everybody. Last week I made my first attempt with two 16ohm pucks and mounted them to my chair via the puckicker from thingiverse. AMP is one of the cheap nobsound from amazon.
I know that the mounting solution in combination with these small shakers haven't so much impact like a big one, but I have kind of a different problem.

At least with the standard simhub settings I can't feel any differences for the different effects. I expected some changes when dealing with the frequency values (between 20-80) but it seems that these shakers peak around 40hz and otherwise are very very weak. But if every necessary effect has the same frequency the feedback isnt so great. Maybe its just a settings issue, so please tell me how you setup your pucks with simhub.

Thanks in advance

You opted for the Dayton Puc and while these have been affordable/popular for some time. It was one of the units I compared when seeking to find the best solution for this shared concept.

The "Puc"is much more limited in what it can output with the upper bass frequencies and is one reason you are struggling to feel many variations. What happens is effects with lower frequencies also have harmonics so we want a unit that has scope well beyond the 100Hz so that we can not just feel the "center values" given for effects but that can create the higher harmonics they also output.

When you have several effects using between 40-60Hz then it is likely each of those also creates their own level of harmonics at @ 80Hz. This issue you have is a common problem and is why lots of users with budget tactile (limited to perform well @30-80Hz) have this problem.

Lots of these budget units have a peak output of around 40Hz.
What can happen is the natural harmonics generated from some effects using 40Hz will be similar in amplitude/strength @60Hz from the used (40Hz center value) and you then trying to place some different effects with a (60Hz center value) .What happens is you get a mush of vibrations and little clear distinction of individual effects. The harmonics being generated from the strong/peak effects you are using around 40-50Hz are combining with other effects you are trying to also generate. Does that help?

Some use the phrase "less is more" as having fewer effects can bring more detail in this scenario with frequency limited transducers. As expressed quite alot on these forums my own approach is to highlight that using a BK/Exciter combo we are able to extend the operating range we have for effects by as much as 4x the range, offering response from (1Hz-200Hz+) to what many budget transducers offer as good performing frequencies with only (30Hz-80Hz).

A further example is how Buttkickers do not perform that well beyond 80Hz and they start to drop off in felt detail, when compared to TST units and/or Exciters @60Hz or so.

When you have that ability and then apply also multiple exciters to specific body zones then you can play around with how/where you place effects. You CAN avoid the mushiness by placing any effects that use similar frequencies at the same time @turen009 so that they are generated on different exciters. It's just worth self experimenting but avoiding a unit being overloaded.

Note:
An "Exciter" is a vibration unit that turns objects into speakers, it will act like a speaker with a wide range of frequencies. Unlike a "Transducer" which are limited only to a small number of bass frequencies.

In 2019 I got an idea of trying to use an "Exciter" with controlled crossover settings to then reduce its operation in acting as a speaker for it to instead operate only with bass frequencies. In essence, making them operate more like a "Transducer" but with the benefits similar to Clark Synthesis TST transducers that we could generate much finer detail for harmonics and extend felt sensations to beyond 150Hz-200Hz. So technically we are using these not in their normal operation and hence why we need to take care with settings or crossovers in feeding them constant low bass signals.

The higher frequencies may offer little on their own in felt sensation but when used in the right way as additional harmonics accompanying other effect layers, then it adds to the feeling/sensation for effects we can generate. Just like removing treble from speakers/headphones makes it sound kinda dull lifeless or with no spakle. Harmonics are natural so adding harmonic layers can with some effects be a benefit to the felt sensation, err less dull, less lifeless and with added sparkle... Used on specific effects it can help change their felt character to others and is a key benefit if we want to associate felt muscle/memory to specific sensations. Ideally, we want to give effects their own felt identity and this would be an important aspect for feeling the movement of the car. Examples being senstations to represent g-load,slip, acceleration giving the user felt feedback to improve their driving and also braking.

Also having the ability to directly place vibrations to specific body regions lets us apply specific effects or indeed specific layers from effects that use multiple layers to avoid the mush issue or a single unit being given too much of the same frequencies to generate from several effects operating at a time.

Multi-Layer Effects:
Effects can have layers using really low bass for BK units and we can then add layers for the Exciters/TST units that use "harmonically matched" in sync frequencies for the layers that the BK generates.
We can create effects that use both units for their own operational benefits to bring much more energetic and stimulating immersion.
 
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