Step 1: DIY- Chassis build

Cyberbug

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Jul 5, 2019
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I have decided to build my own 8020 Chassis.

Initial plan is to get a sturdy frame and seat mount done with harness.

1. Any recommendations on plans or measurements, lessons learned?
What overall length and width should I plan for? I will be using external 3 monitor mount not part of this chassis.
2. Also need to decide on seat, seat bracket and harness
Recs. On these? Plus how yo securely mount harness? 4 or 5pt.

After above is done the. I will get into pedals and steering wheel setup
 
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AccAkut

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Mar 21, 2015
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I just started one myself, as many do of profiles from Motedis.

2019-07-07 17.48.19.jpg


One thing that wondered me about many similar builds I've seen online is just how f*cking sturdy guys build them, using 80x40 everywhere and in multiple layers. This is mine so far, most is 40x40, and even that does not bend or move in any way even if I stand on the main portal beam (which I chose to go 80x40 to have more space to fasten whatever wheel I may go for). We have many machine enclosures at work made from 40x40s.

Lower latter frame is fastened by drilling through the rails (you need a drill press for that), for portals the angle irons seem to do alright on their own, keeping it modular.
 

ThugUK

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Feb 27, 2015
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Agree with above.
40x40 is more than enough and wont flex at all.
Mine is 40x80 and a full motion rig and is rock solid. Any more would be overkill (and heavy).
I have no doubt that 40x40 is be just as good.

IMG_5500.jpg
 
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LagunaSeca

100RPM
May 8, 2018
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Pathetic American here. Mostly I use 15 series, which means 1.5 inches, approximately 3.8 cm, so pretty close to 40 series. (I use larger profile for the main frame ofc) Yep. Soild as rock and I can jump up and down on my rig without noticing any flex.

My advice is that if you want to go for triple, build a separate triple monitor stand with casters. If in the future you want to add anything to the cockpit or add a fourth screen, the work will be much easier.

Another thing people don't usually realize that how "casual" 80/20 is. You don't have to know CAD and plan carefully to build a rig. You can just add stuff to meet your needs. The only drawback is that you don't get your rig as refined as ThugUK's, but that does not really matter. It can literally build anything. I started off by building a floating bookshelf using 80/20 frames.

Currently out of town. Will update pictures later.
 

AccAkut

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It certainly does to plan out your build in CAD, both to keep costs down and precision up. Like I couldn't do the precise cuts by hand the supplier does for me :p

Another question, what's a good source to find a cheap racing seat?
 

GFJunky

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Jan 25, 2019
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I would disagree with 40x40 being enough. My original design was similar to the one pictured above and had flex between the seat mount and wheel deck uprights when you braked. It would have been way too floppy for motion, so before adding SFX100 I added a second layer making it 40x80 and it is now much stiffer and doesn't appear to banana anymore.
 

Jeremy Ford

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Apr 28, 2016
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I wouldn't use 40x40 for the whole build. My HE Handbrake is mounted on 40x40, and that section has some flex when pulled. Not much, but it's still visible to the eye.
 

tony wright

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Dec 28, 2017
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Built my complete rig from scratch, using 40x40. I have an OSW and motion and have no problems with flex, if it does I really don’t notice it. There is also no need to drill through the frame (show in photo above) as you can purchase small parts that screw directly into the end of the profile, you then slide it into place and screw into position. I’ll try and post a picture later.
 
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diablo2112

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Dec 1, 2016
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You can never get your wheel deck stiff enough. I used mainly 8040 profiles, and still had a slight amount of flex. I ending up bracing the wheel deck with 40-square using dynamic joints to triangulate the deck. Now, it has absolutely no flex or movement. Nearly every 8020 rig I've tried has the slightest amount of wheel deck movement, even the P1. The only way to eliminate this is to triangulate mechanically. Yes, this is probably going overboard but I just couldn't stand the thought of any movement in the OSW mount.





 

diablo2112

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Dec 1, 2016
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Yes, those are 100x100x250 Kinetik square extrusions, housing ball-screw actuators per the SFX-100 design.
 

AccAkut

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Built my complete rig from scratch, using 40x40. I have an OSW and motion and have no problems with flex, if it does I really don’t notice it. There is also no need to drill through the frame (show in photo above) as you can purchase small parts that screw directly into the end of the profile, you then slide it into place and screw into position. I’ll try and post a picture later.
I used both those slide thingies and screwing, screwing just gives it way more strength. I plan on doing the same with the vertical seat foundation once I get a seat and finalised its position
 

ThugUK

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Feb 27, 2015
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What did you use to fill the channels? the Red stripes
The red strips were just channel strips that the place I bought my aluminium profile supplied.
They came in 2mtr strips and cost about £1.50 per strip.
Nice - are those actuator? covers with 80x80?
Also on the Red rig?
As already said, its the 100x100 SFX100 full motion system. I printed the pieces out in red using my 3d printer.