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Steering Wheel and Coiled Cable

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For those who are using direct drive wheels, how do you route the usb cable from the steering wheel button box?

I have the SRC GT1 wheel
The only issue is the coiled usb cable, on a long counter steer situation, the cable always catch in front of the shifter paddle and get tangled up.
It's esp. a problem for me since i'm using VR.

I tried to mount the cable a couple different ways but can't solve this issue.

Any tips on how to deal with this?

is there a way to connect the button box using bluetooth?
 
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A spacer for the steering wheel might help. I have this one (6 cm). I also found out that using a thinner coiled cable was a good improvement. See:

cables.jpg
 
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I have the same rim and button box, just recently purchased. I haven't had an issue yet but I understand what you mean. I will have a play with mounting and routing the cable a few different ways over the weekend. A spacer should definitely help.
 
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951
I have the Accuforce V2 DD wheel and the first day I used it I ripped the end off the cable when I powered it on and it caught on the paddle going through it calibration sequence.
I now remove the wheel before I power it on and never had the issue again.
 
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269
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451
I have a DD wheel and the same steering wheel and button box, no spacer and no QR, and have never had any issues with the USB cable. The coiled part of the USB cable hangs loose and the straight cable is attached to the rig underneath and towards the rear of the DD servo. Best described with photos.

IMG_1198.JPG


I then have the steering wheel USB cable plugged into a USB extension cable, which could pull out if too much force was exerted on the cable.
IMG_1199.JPG


This has worked for me.
 
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I'm finding I have to do this to. Secure the plug so the rotating rim in a crash doesn't pull out the USB connection. I think letting it hang loose like that is a good option for this cable. It's shorter than my old one and that negates the need to hang it over the shaft.
 

avenger82

Krzysztof Maj
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I also have SRC wheel and very similar issues.
End of my coiled USB cable is tied with a cable zip tie to a Sim-labs front mount (picture attached). This way when wheel rotates rapidly the cable won’t disconnect from cable extension.
The problem is that only the end of coiled part of the cable gets stretched, when wheel rotates too much and in case the wheelbase goes crazy the cable zip tie will be probably too strong. I believe it’d be better it disconnects from the extension when excessive pull force is used on the cable so that it’s not ripped.
Also when the cable is pulled by the wheel as in the picture (so that straight part is hanging below the wheel too) it has strong tendency to get tangled between paddles and the back of the wheel (as described by OP). When I push cable other way and limit it so that there’s more pressure when hanging , then it’s OK for a while(until it’s pulled again)
I think I will use Velcro wraps instead of plastic zip tie so that it’s not that strong.
 

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    wheel cable.jpeg
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metalnwood

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Mine is like this, enough coil to be able to turn it as much as I need to for formula and GT cars. Turning left stretches the coil and turning right relaxes it but not enough there for it to sag so for me, its as good as not having a cable. I never feel it.
IMG_2154.JPG
 

Andrew_WOT

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Using pretty much same setup as @Ceolmor, with cable hanging between legs and connected to USB extension on motor mount. 6 years of use so far, no problems.
Pre wrapping around column is not going to work for cars with high DOR.
 

avenger82

Krzysztof Maj
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515
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916
Mine is like this, enough coil to be able to turn it as much as I need to for formula and GT cars. Turning left stretches the coil and turning right relaxes it but not enough there for it to sag so for me, its as good as not having a cable. I never feel it.
View attachment 415232
But the coiled part wrapped around wheels’s spacer doesn’t get stretched much, only the part after that? Is it tied by a plastic cable zip tie? Aren’t you worried what would happen if wheel turns much more than steering lock in GT cars?
Do you have steering lock limited(bumpstop range) in SC driver? I have it set to 540-600 degrees.
 
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metalnwood

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I dont remember my bumpstops but I can turn the wheel full and it's not pulling anything out.. At the end of my coiled cable is a usb extension so there is nothing tight from end of wheel cable to the computer.
 

TedBrosby-

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I’m jealous of the coiled cables you guys can buy. The longest one available in Japan is only 1m long when stretched. I already ripped one out of the port when calibrating the SC1.
I’m going fully wireless with my SC2 but I’d like a source on long coiled cables in Japan that doesn’t break the bank.
Guess I’ll order from overseas.
 

avenger82

Krzysztof Maj
Messages
515
Points
916
I dont remember my bumpstops but I can turn the wheel full and it's not pulling anything out.. At the end of my coiled cable is a usb extension so there is nothing tight from end of wheel cable to the computer.
I will have to try your solution.
For now I just moved end of the coiled cable slightly so it’s more aligned with center of the wheelbase instead of going into the right hole in the frontmount .
At least for now the cable doesn’t get stuck between paddle shifters and back of the button plate, but so far wraps around wheelbase spacer. But I also avoided fast wheel spins with higher DOR, that still may cause that.

I also have the cable connected to USB extension and have it tied before this connection with a plastic cable zip tie so it won’t disconnect from extension . But I will replace the zip tie with Velcro wrap so in case wheel starts spinning really fast the cable won’t be ripped from the wheel, but rather it’ll get disconnected from the extension.
 
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