Season 9 Race 1 Hungaroring - Preperation thread

For newbies I would like to say that playing around with your throttle and brake sensitivity can make a HUGE difference.
Many may know this, but I had not done anything with it since I started playing.

When I went into settings and decrease both of these by 30% (now on 20% sensitivity) and then tried to drive again I realized that 90% of my mistakes was due to wrong settings.

Now I can hit the throttle a lot earlier and without spinning out of corners.
It took a few laps to find new breaking points etc..

But everything is so much more controlled now.
I am happy :)
 
I got mine on 0-10% depending on the track. Then another setting that is directly related to that is found in the setup: Engine map. It controls how much torque is produced thru the revs, it has the same effect as throttle sensitivity. Lower mapping produces less torque in the lower rev range and the curve is steeper at the higher end. Higher produces more torque but may cause tires to slip excessively. You can keep higher revs with lower engine mapping, it also helps a lot exiting corners simply because you get less power. Higher engine maps are faster but since consistency is the only real factor here, lower mapping produce less errors. It's mainly about driving style, last season i noticed that by lowering engine mapping i could get better end results but it does mean that the whole race has to be error free, less average power means slower laps.

Also there's a possibility of "power surge", the feeling when the engine starts producing a lot more power at certain rev range. Lower mappings makes the curve steeper as it still needs to reach maximum torque and HP, it may surprise a driver where as with higher mappings it's always in the back of your mind that you have "non-restricted" engine.. I do more shortshifts with higher mapping pretty much automatically and i think so do others, we all need to monitor slippage all the time anyway and change gear changes, throttle and brake levels on-the-fly.

Also decreasing power lock makes exits easier up to a point and doesn't allow as fast lap times as stiffer locks. Has the same effect as the previous two but can get excessive always spinning the inside wheel... It's hard to catch, even from telemetry it is hard to notice too loose lock so it just has to be experimented. I'm currently on power lock 18 and pump on 10 (35 coast) from last seasons power 8 pump 8... probably going back to 15 for the actual race just make things easier but i'll change that closer to raceday.
 
Forgot to mention i got DXTweaked the sensitivities on the windows driver level to get that 10% to use... So in theory in game 10% translates to 0% without DXTweak. In pracitce it's even less sensitive but close enough. Just to give that 10% wiggle room for different track types...
 
I personally wouldn't lower throttle sensitivity under 50%, because 50% means linear in race07 and anything other than linear does in theory,lower your precision.

I do not know exactly what that (linear) means, but I had full input at 20% push on my throttle pedal and the same with my brakes. Now I have a much wider range on my pedals, cannot understand why that would not make my driving more precise.

Could there maybe also be difference in pedal-sets?
Why else have this setting at all?

I also realized that when I was in the setting window that my throttle was showing output even with no input, that was why I tried it out.
 
I do not know exactly what that (linear) means, but I had full input at 20% push on my throttle pedal and the same with my brakes. Now I have a much wider range on my pedals, cannot understand why that would not make my driving more precise.

Could there maybe also be difference in pedal-sets?
Why else have this setting at all?

I also realized that when I was in the setting window that my throttle was showing output even with no input, that was why I tried it out.

Linear means that the amount of change that you give to your throttle amounts into a steady change of the throttle output (sorry, had to describe when english is not your native language).
Using, for example a lower sensitivity, would mean that your maximum resolution that you have in your throttle would be lowered, as you would be controlling your higher 50% of throttle output with just a couple of % of your actual input.

But yes, in practical use it may be better to have a lower sensitivity for cars that are very explosive in lower revs and more stable in highers.
But I would still prefer that x% of input equals x% of output even in threse cars :)

I don't know which pedals you have, but usually your throttle output should be 0% without input and reach 100% only by pressing it 100%.

Brakes can be totally different, that depends on what pedals you use.
With a potentiometer brake-pedal it is not a bad idea to lower sesitivity, if you have problems with lock-ups. With a load-cell brake I would keep it linear, as the load-cell takes care of the correct feeling.
 
So if I understand this correctly, 20% sensitivity could mean that:
-0% pedal = 0% throttle
-80% pedal = 50% throttle
-100% pedal = 100% throttle

while 50% sensitivity is:
-0% pedal = 0% throttle
-50% pedal = 50% throttle
-100% pedal = 100% throttle

In other words, if one have a problem with spinning out of corners, or off the line, it could be an idea to lower sensitivity to "trick you" to be easier on throttle.

Have I got it right?
ps: I think I have 50% sensitivity, most of my settings are default :)

I had full input at 20% push on my throttle pedal and the same with my brakes.
This sounds like a calibration problem, or possibly some extreme dead zone values or something. I agree with Dino that regardless of sensitivity settings you should not reach full throttle before you push the pedal to the metal... that is at least my experience :)
 
I concur, you should hit 100% with millimeters left in the end. Lower sensitivity in game settings means less resolution. But it's not noticeable, don't know what is the resolution in other wheels, Momo has 255 step output and +10k steps internally... So in that sense it would be better to change the linearity in windows driver level.

But even if you spend 80% of your output to 50% throttle you'll still left with 50 individual steps for the rest of the range, that is roughly one percent resolution. But i don't believe that it is so steep curve.... Hmm, maybe i can measure that, get 50% throttle on telemetry and compare that to the DXTweak values, it shows both DX and RAW values (RAW is what comes from the hardware, DX is what gets send to the game.)
 
I concur, you should hit 100% with millimeters left in the end. Lower sensitivity in game settings means less resolution. But it's not noticeable, don't know what is the resolution in other wheels, Momo has 255 step output and +10k steps internally... So in that sense it would be better to change the linearity in windows driver level.

The experience that I have is, when I used my old pedal-set with a rather short throw and with a 255 step output. After that I changed to a different pedal-set with a longer throw, a stiffer spring and a 1024 step-output.
The difference in controlability after that switch was massive :)
 
Well after the practice race I have gone back to the drawing board. I started with Sean's Spa setup and slowly changed wings and gears until I had a nice feeling car. It's taken over 200 laps offline to get comfortable but in the 200+ laps I can count the offs on 1 hand so bring on the tester tomorrow night to see how it goes for real in traffic.
 

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