Project CARS Thrustmaster TX settings

Icarus2007

25RPM
May 25, 2013
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UPDATED 23/8/15

I have tried many suggestions and read many forum topics but none gave me the FFB I was craving, so I went tweaking crazy and this is the monster I have created. I can now feel the front wheels lose grip, when the bonnet jumps and shudders on track I can feel it through the wheel, and I have tackled to a certain extent the center spring problem.

For me these settings are up to the level of Game Stock Car, iRacing, Assetto Corsa and Race07/GTR2 Of course we're all looking for something slightly different, but hopefully these settings can tackle some frustrations some people are having with the standard FFB.

I tackled each section at a time to get a feel what what each one did, if the overall feel is not to your liking maybe you can try each section to see if it helps.

These setting were created while using the Jack Spade FFB Tweaker Files v1.7 (no.4,bumps), so a big thanks to him, and to everyone who answered my forums posts.

Tested with/at:

Ginetta G55 GT3 @ Sonoma/Spa/Imola
Radical SR3-RS @ Sonoma
Sauber C9 @ Zhuhai


Thrustmaster Settings:
845 degrees of Rotation: I followed the Thrustmaster set up instructions for PCARS. When setting up the wheel in game, hold the wheel physically at 90 degrees.

Overall strength of all forces 68%

Constant 100%
Periodic 100%
Spring 0%
Damper 0%

Auto Center by the game

In Game Settings:

Force Feedback = 100

Steering sensitivity = 50

Tire Force = 124

Per Wheel Movement -0.04
Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.04

Wheel Position Smoothing = 0.07

Deadzone Removal Range = 0.15
Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.10 - Removes center spring

Linkage Scale 0.00
Linkage Stiffness 1.00
Linkage damping 1.00


Relative Adjust Gain = 1.74
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.15
Relative Adjust Clamp = 141

Scoop Knee = 0.85
Scoop Reduction = 0.50

Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 1.39
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 1.20

Low Speed Spring Coefficient 0.92
Low Speed Spring Saturation 0.50

Steering Gain 166

I have tried these settings with the Jack Spade Tweaker files v2.0 but prefer v1.7

Hopefully these will help someone, see you on the track.

Brian.
 
Last edited:

Brandon Wright

I may not be fast, but I'm wide!
Nov 14, 2014
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1,861
Just tried these and they're brilliant. I'm getting a lot more feeling from the track and car, very nice. Only difference is I have my deadzone removal at .11 as I'd already found that gives me more of a feeling I like in the turns.

Nice work. :thumbsup:
 
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bmanic

250RPM
Jun 16, 2009
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There's one more addition you can do. I highly recommend adding Per Wheel movement -0.04 and Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.04. This effectively removes the slight resistance of the belt driven system that Thrustmaster uses and thus helps to separate each force a tiny bit more.
 

Brandon Wright

I may not be fast, but I'm wide!
Nov 14, 2014
4,421
1,861
Before the patch I had mine at 50 but after the patch I have it back to 100.
 

Icarus2007

25RPM
May 25, 2013
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What strength do you have you wheel at? Mine is only at 60. I believe it's recommend to have in game FFB and Tyre Force set at 100 to get the most feel then set your wheel FFB accordingly.

@Icarus2007 The tire force after the latest patch is too high so I have that about 50 and this set up is working really well thanks.
 

jimortality

4000RPM
Mar 13, 2013
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There's one more addition you can do. I highly recommend adding Per Wheel movement -0.04 and Per Wheel Movement Squared 0.04. This effectively removes the slight resistance of the belt driven system that Thrustmaster uses and thus helps to separate each force a tiny bit more.
I'm finding this gives the centre a looser feel. Does anyone get the notch on mainly left turn? Only happens in this game, it's like a slight knock on bumpy left movement of the wheel.
 

jimortality

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Mar 13, 2013
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What strength do you have you wheel at? Mine is only at 60. I believe it's recommend to have in game FFB and Tyre Force set at 100 to get the most feel then set your wheel FFB accordingly.
Yeah I tried 60 but it felt too light so I'm back to 70. May try 65 after f1 quali
 

bmanic

250RPM
Jun 16, 2009
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I'm finding this gives the centre a looser feel. Does anyone get the notch on mainly left turn? Only happens in this game, it's like a slight knock on bumpy left movement of the wheel.
Haven't noticed anything like that. Any specific track/car combo? I do know that Relative Adjust can sometimes bug out if you have the Relative Adjust Bleed (basically a release envelope / timer) at a too high value.. this results in some sudden drops and notches in the FFB.

Per Wheel Movement is basically the same system that Fanatec calls the "drift mode". It detects the position of the wheel and where you are turning it, then using the FFB motors to help you turn, basically nullifying the rubber belt resistance of the wheel. It's a neat little system but EXTREMELY hard to setup. Values of -0.04 and 0.04 respectively work for my wheel but should of course be tailored to your own wheel as they are surely all slightly different considering the manufacturing tolerances of consumer electronics.

You can also use this system the other way around, creating friction for turning. This can be used to simulate a real life "heavy wheel resistance" if you want.. something that old cars may have.
 

Pär Öqvist

500RPM
Feb 17, 2012
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Has anybody got ffb with a TX that matches that of any other modern sim like stock car extreme, rFactor 2, Assetto Corsa or even Raceroom?

I use the 49 firmware on mine.
 

bmanic

250RPM
Jun 16, 2009
311
230
Has anybody got ffb with a TX that matches that of any other modern sim like stock car extreme, rFactor 2, Assetto Corsa or even Raceroom?

I use the 49 firmware on mine.
Try the settings in the original post in the thread. If you dislike the FFB fidelity in that then you might not like the SoP setting (seat of the pants.. basically it translates some FFB forces from the rear tires to the steering wheel which is of course not how it works in reality).

You can also try my temporary solution for TX wheel that I posted at the official forums here:

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?33710-Temporary-solution-for-FFB-BUG-Thrustmaster-TX-458-(may-work-for-T500-T300)

Once you've followed the instructions 100% to the letter (I can not stress this enough, set each parameter exactly as I have them in the post.. even tiny changes of a single value can completely change the system) you can then set the car specific FFB up something like this:

Master Scale = as high as you can go without clipping (look at the telemetry screen while driving. Upper left corner is a FFB meter)

Fx = 84
Fy = 50
Fz = 82
Mz = 100

.. or for a more "lively road feel" kind of setup you can do something like this:

Master Scale = as high as you can go without clipping
Fx = 200
Fy = 50
Fz = 200
Mz = 80
Fy smoothing = 0.3
Fz smoothing = 0.1


NOTE: the "temporary solution" is for people who have reset their profile and are now suffering from the buggy Tire Force / soft clip and relative adjust settings which result in extremely hard clipping forces at default settings. This is why my tire force setting in that post is set to so low. If you are NOT suffering from severe clipping at default settings then my post is irrelevant and doesn't work for you.
 
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jimortality

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Mar 13, 2013
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These settings with jacks spades bumps files are giving some of the best ffb I've ever experienced.
 

Pär Öqvist

500RPM
Feb 17, 2012
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Thanks Bmanic I have stalked you and your settings and tried them before. But I just start to feel that it´s impossible to get the ffb close to the levels of rFactor 2 and AC in Project Cars with the TX. CSW owners seem more happy with Project Cars overall. I briefly tried the G27 and was kind of shocked by the results. How it was not utter garbage in comparison for the first time ever ;)

Subjective jadajada but just booting up rFactor 2 stock ffb no tricks beside no smoothing work so much better :). But I have surely not tried every single variation of the 36 different parametres yet so maybe the holy grail is out there.