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Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115
Imagine Mark a real race driver. Race engineer worst nightmare. 
Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )
RCHeliguy
Premium
Tore apart my old pedal deck.
Cleaned up my wiring some more. There is always something left to improve when I tear things down.
Mounted the new 40x120 profile and simplified things.
Then mounted that to the main rig and rebuilt my dead pedal mount to be a little less bulky.
I got a couple 3 foot lengths of 1/4" x 6" aluminum plate so I don't run out for a while.
I'll remake my foot plate so it has less holes in it and the isolator mounts are more inboard.
Cleaned up my wiring some more. There is always something left to improve when I tear things down.
Mounted the new 40x120 profile and simplified things.
Then mounted that to the main rig and rebuilt my dead pedal mount to be a little less bulky.
I got a couple 3 foot lengths of 1/4" x 6" aluminum plate so I don't run out for a while.
I'll remake my foot plate so it has less holes in it and the isolator mounts are more inboard.
RCHeliguy
Premium
I figured people might just want something to look at with everything going on these days. So here is the build of my new foot plate.
Cut to 22" with an metal cutting blade.
Initial cleanup before marking it up.
Measure out where the holes go and use an auto punch to create a divot in the aluminum.
Drill the new holes and bevel the holes for countersunk bolts.
Comparison with the old plate.
Ready to install.
Installed on my rig. Looks much better
No more swiss cheese look and the isolators are not hanging over the edge anymore.
Cut to 22" with an metal cutting blade.
Initial cleanup before marking it up.
Measure out where the holes go and use an auto punch to create a divot in the aluminum.
Drill the new holes and bevel the holes for countersunk bolts.
Comparison with the old plate.
Ready to install.
Installed on my rig. Looks much better
No more swiss cheese look and the isolators are not hanging over the edge anymore.
RCHeliguy
Premium
The mount for my H pattern shifter was solid, but it just looked ugly as sin and the cable was running along the outside and could easily be hidden.
The first 3 pictures are BEFORE pictures.
So I built a new plate for it.
The top left corner of the shifter bolts directly into the profile, then 2 more countersunk bolts go into the profile and another couple countersunk bolts through bolt corner supports.
I hide the USB cable in the profile slot and I think overall it looks a lot cleaner.
It's still rock solid.
The first 3 pictures are BEFORE pictures.
So I built a new plate for it.
The top left corner of the shifter bolts directly into the profile, then 2 more countersunk bolts go into the profile and another couple countersunk bolts through bolt corner supports.
I hide the USB cable in the profile slot and I think overall it looks a lot cleaner.
It's still rock solid.
RCHeliguy
Premium
Today was a fun day.
First I weighed my rig..... and the result is that I could gain 50 lbs and still be under the weight limit for the NLR Traction Plus!!!!
After hearing that the VR motion compensation NLR designed works very well with Traction Plus and kept you centered in your cockpit while you are sliding around, I got very curious if this was something I could actually use. Frankly traction loss seems like one of the only motion effects that could actually help you to drive faster and I understand combined with the NLRv3 the results are excellent.
Then I made another cosmetic change and created a cleaner looking track mouse mount.
First I weighed my rig..... and the result is that I could gain 50 lbs and still be under the weight limit for the NLR Traction Plus!!!!
After hearing that the VR motion compensation NLR designed works very well with Traction Plus and kept you centered in your cockpit while you are sliding around, I got very curious if this was something I could actually use. Frankly traction loss seems like one of the only motion effects that could actually help you to drive faster and I understand combined with the NLRv3 the results are excellent.
Then I made another cosmetic change and created a cleaner looking track mouse mount.
Last edited:
I have the same mouse, I've actually got one for work around 10 years ago and then when building the rig realized it would be the perfect option for that too.
I love the way you have the Heusinkveld gear turned towards you. Can I ask you where did you buy the hinge corner brackets you use for the handbrake?
I love the way you have the Heusinkveld gear turned towards you. Can I ask you where did you buy the hinge corner brackets you use for the handbrake?
RCHeliguy
Premium
Sim-Lab sells the 40 series hinges as does 8020.net and a few other places. Sim-Lab's prices are better.
BTW I agree about these trackball mice. I have two of them on my gaming system and a keyboard that all use the same wireless USB chicklet (Logitech Diversity). It's supposed to handle up to 6 devices. This way I keep one trackball next to my keyboard on a small sliding chair, and this one is dedicated to my rig.
The edges just were not up to snuff, so I spent some time fine filing and sanding the edges to get them smoother. Now I'm happy with it
Last edited:
RCHeliguy
Premium
I weighed my chassis wrong leaving my front casters deployed while measuring the weight of the back of my rig. So they acted like a fulcrum and dropped the weight at the rear by about 60 lbs. So with me in the rig the total would be about 14 lbs over the 518 limit for the Traction Plus.
If I don't hang my spare wheel on the rig 3 lbs, put the delrin hangars somewhere else, remove the foot rest 4 lbs, remove the sequential shifter that I rarely use 3 lbs, that's 10lbs dropped without any major inconvenience.
I've figured out how to mount my rig to the Traction Plus in a way that involves modifying my frame a bit that will be about net sum zero for weight. So I'm right on the edge. If I lost 5 lbs, I would be right at the limit.
I think I've also come up with a way to move this rig at around 600 lbs that doesn't raise the height much. The idea is to get a 4x8' sheet of 1/8" UHMW plastic which is very slippery to go under a piece of 3/4" plywood. Think one HUGE furniture slider.
www.eplastics.com
This is a reasonably inexpensive option costing about $100 for both the plywood and UHMW sheet. That takes care of the slip. 600lbs distributed over that much surface area should be reasonable to move. I'd want to roundover the edges of the UHMW and plywood just to make sure it didn't catch.
So how would I keep it still once I got it where I wanted it?
What I'm currently thinking of is having slots in the UHMW both lengthwise and side ways that allowed me to insert strips of wood forming a bit of a grid work. However I wouldn't have space in front of the rig to insert anything.
I had also though of having openings going all the way through that I could clamp something grippier through.
This is very much a design in progress.
If I don't hang my spare wheel on the rig 3 lbs, put the delrin hangars somewhere else, remove the foot rest 4 lbs, remove the sequential shifter that I rarely use 3 lbs, that's 10lbs dropped without any major inconvenience.
I've figured out how to mount my rig to the Traction Plus in a way that involves modifying my frame a bit that will be about net sum zero for weight. So I'm right on the edge. If I lost 5 lbs, I would be right at the limit.
I think I've also come up with a way to move this rig at around 600 lbs that doesn't raise the height much. The idea is to get a 4x8' sheet of 1/8" UHMW plastic which is very slippery to go under a piece of 3/4" plywood. Think one HUGE furniture slider.
0.125" X 48" X 96" Natural HDPE Sheet at ePlastics
ePlastics stocks and sells 0.125 X 48 X 96 natural HDPE sheet SR for a wide variety of uses. From very thin to multiple inches thick, we have it all. Uses vary from custom sized cutting boards, to giant chemical tanks, and everythign in between. View the selection online to see more.
This is a reasonably inexpensive option costing about $100 for both the plywood and UHMW sheet. That takes care of the slip. 600lbs distributed over that much surface area should be reasonable to move. I'd want to roundover the edges of the UHMW and plywood just to make sure it didn't catch.
So how would I keep it still once I got it where I wanted it?
What I'm currently thinking of is having slots in the UHMW both lengthwise and side ways that allowed me to insert strips of wood forming a bit of a grid work. However I wouldn't have space in front of the rig to insert anything.
I had also though of having openings going all the way through that I could clamp something grippier through.
This is very much a design in progress.
Last edited:
RCHeliguy
Premium
Since I had a number of people asking me to build them one of my trackball mounts and this trackball mouse seems to be very popular with sim racers, here are more details on how to build your own.
Critical dimensions are:
Vertical Support
-- 40mm on center 8mm holes at the bottom.
-- 20mm from edge 8mm holes at the top.
Horizontal Support
-- ( 20mm + 1/4" ) from edge 8mm holes on either side of trackball's right arc.
Approx 4" long piece of 40x40 40 series profile with end caps.
1/4" aluminum plate.
For those in the US, I've found Stock Car Steel to be a great source for aluminum plate and angle aluminum. I used this.
https://stockcarsteel.com/aluminum-flat-bar-6061-1-4-x-6...
I use this blade to cut aluminum on my table saw. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YMVBE
200 grit sandpaper can be used to create a brushed aluminum finish. Just sand in a very straight line.
I used a band saw and files to cut the curved shapes. A coping saw and a vice could probably work as well.
Critical dimensions are:
Vertical Support
-- 40mm on center 8mm holes at the bottom.
-- 20mm from edge 8mm holes at the top.
Horizontal Support
-- ( 20mm + 1/4" ) from edge 8mm holes on either side of trackball's right arc.
Approx 4" long piece of 40x40 40 series profile with end caps.
1/4" aluminum plate.
For those in the US, I've found Stock Car Steel to be a great source for aluminum plate and angle aluminum. I used this.
https://stockcarsteel.com/aluminum-flat-bar-6061-1-4-x-6...
I use this blade to cut aluminum on my table saw. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YMVBE
200 grit sandpaper can be used to create a brushed aluminum finish. Just sand in a very straight line.
I used a band saw and files to cut the curved shapes. A coping saw and a vice could probably work as well.
Excellent skills, sir! There's s reason your rig build is one of my watched threads.
Thank you for sharing your detailed how-tos and experience.
RCHeliguy
Premium
On that note. This is for people who don't have the tools to work with aluminum at home.
All you need is a vector file to send to the link below for an automatic quote to have aluminum laser cut for you.
I used 1/4" thick 6061 aluminum.
Online Laser Cutting and Waterjet Cutting Service
SendCutSend is an online CNC and laser cutting service, specializing in aluminum, steel, plastics, and more. Fast turnaround and free shipping!
sendcutsend.com
DaimodICE
Only ONE time
Dear Mark!
... I can not find the words of admiration - this is a great job! crazy job! which you have done! I read your work as a boy discovering new horizons! You definitely need to write a book! and sell your experience! ) - because it is incredible incredible! Once again, I take off my hat to your labors!
I would like to ask you a question, in the hope of your ability to get an answer!
You wrote that you need to lay the material ..... "
Would be fairly easy to implement with just a 5mm gap between each plate. To ensure you do not get much stereo crosstalk we can start by increasing the path traveled that the vibrations have to take. I can offer you a further option to consider if you want to improve it.
Think of each plate as being on a "U" shaped support. That the energy from one side has to travel down, then across and then up again before it can be felt on the opposite side.
Along this path we also apply antivibration materials as well as the isolators. So the vibes each side have to go through these layers twice (down/up)"
Could you give links to specific materials - and you laid everywhere on all the plates - on the armchair? on the shifter? - everywhere?
Thank you!
... I can not find the words of admiration - this is a great job! crazy job! which you have done! I read your work as a boy discovering new horizons! You definitely need to write a book! and sell your experience! ) - because it is incredible incredible! Once again, I take off my hat to your labors!
I would like to ask you a question, in the hope of your ability to get an answer!
You wrote that you need to lay the material ..... "
Would be fairly easy to implement with just a 5mm gap between each plate. To ensure you do not get much stereo crosstalk we can start by increasing the path traveled that the vibrations have to take. I can offer you a further option to consider if you want to improve it.
Think of each plate as being on a "U" shaped support. That the energy from one side has to travel down, then across and then up again before it can be felt on the opposite side.
Along this path we also apply antivibration materials as well as the isolators. So the vibes each side have to go through these layers twice (down/up)"
Could you give links to specific materials - and you laid everywhere on all the plates - on the armchair? on the shifter? - everywhere?
Thank you!
RCHeliguy
Premium
@DaimodICE, I'm sorry but the person giving advice for improving my tactile situation is Mr Latte not me.
I never considered splitting my foot plate because I move my brake pedal dependent on whether I am using a clutch or not.
I never considered splitting my foot plate because I move my brake pedal dependent on whether I am using a clutch or not.
RCHeliguy
Premium
When I inverted my pedals, my main impetus was the throttle since my heel was dragging on the foot plate and it was interfering with my smoothly transitioning from trail brake to throttle.
The new throttle position is an overwhelming success. I'm much happier being able to apply very smooth throttle and my heel stays put.
The new brake position took some fiddling with, but I'm also very happy with how it feels now.
For the throttle my shoe touches the bottom edge of the pedal and more of the shoe comes in contact as I apply more pressure.
For the brake, my shoe touches the bottom edge of the pedal and at about 25% ( great for throttle braking ) I have to start bearing down with the ball of my foot. It feels very linear, smooth, comfortable and easy to modulate and as I mentioned I know exactly where 25% is which is working very well for me.
The clutch has been another story. It has felt awkward since I inverted it. Since I started back on Dirt Rally recently where I love to row my H pattern shifter, I've been dealing with my clutch. There is too much throw for the angle the pedal starts and the flat pedal just feels wrong. I'm experimenting with a more curved surface and so far I like it a lot better, but I think there is room for improvement. I've started with adhesive back neoprene to build up a shape. I'm planning to use some of the remaining black delrin I have to make the final shape once I'm happy with this. I'm planning to use flat headed wood screws from the back of the pedal to hold the delrin block in place.
Edit: This feels better. I think I'll run with this for a little while and make sure it feels good after a bunch of use.
The neoprene gives a bit which actually feels pretty good. I'll make the Delrin piece a similar but smoother arc.
The new throttle position is an overwhelming success. I'm much happier being able to apply very smooth throttle and my heel stays put.
The new brake position took some fiddling with, but I'm also very happy with how it feels now.
For the throttle my shoe touches the bottom edge of the pedal and more of the shoe comes in contact as I apply more pressure.
For the brake, my shoe touches the bottom edge of the pedal and at about 25% ( great for throttle braking ) I have to start bearing down with the ball of my foot. It feels very linear, smooth, comfortable and easy to modulate and as I mentioned I know exactly where 25% is which is working very well for me.
The clutch has been another story. It has felt awkward since I inverted it. Since I started back on Dirt Rally recently where I love to row my H pattern shifter, I've been dealing with my clutch. There is too much throw for the angle the pedal starts and the flat pedal just feels wrong. I'm experimenting with a more curved surface and so far I like it a lot better, but I think there is room for improvement. I've started with adhesive back neoprene to build up a shape. I'm planning to use some of the remaining black delrin I have to make the final shape once I'm happy with this. I'm planning to use flat headed wood screws from the back of the pedal to hold the delrin block in place.
Edit: This feels better. I think I'll run with this for a little while and make sure it feels good after a bunch of use.
The neoprene gives a bit which actually feels pretty good. I'll make the Delrin piece a similar but smoother arc.
Last edited:
RCHeliguy
Premium
More ergonomic tweaking. I've been spending more time in Dirt Rally 2.0 again lately and had a couple ideas.
Side Note: With recent improvements in efficiency either by DR2 or SteamVR, I am now able to run with all graphics settings in DR2 maxed out to Ultra, even in the rain, so far every track has been perfectly smooth and VR stutter free! Looks Great!
It may not be obvious, but I moved my hand brake back 40mm and to the right 40mm by mounting it to a piece of 40 series mounted to the rearmost slot. The profile is held rock solid with two corner brackets in front and a 6 hole plate on the back.
I have my tow strap flipped out out of the way for this picture. It is much easier to pull this across the floor with the tow straps on both sides.
I also moved the sequential shifter to the right by reversing the bracket.
While everything worked well before, the sequential shifter crowded the wheel just a bit. This feels a bit better and I have no chance of accidentally brushing or nicking with my hand while I'm heavily drifting in rally and turning the wheel quickly.
The hand brake feels a bit better better too. It is moved back a bit so there is now zero chance of interference with the h pattern shifter.
To keep the reach similar it is now tilted towards me and has a more natural grip angle than being vertical.
This picture shows the current wrap around effect. Controls, mouse, water bottle, VR headset, phone, fan remote and of course button box are all very easy to reach.
Side Note: With recent improvements in efficiency either by DR2 or SteamVR, I am now able to run with all graphics settings in DR2 maxed out to Ultra, even in the rain, so far every track has been perfectly smooth and VR stutter free! Looks Great!
It may not be obvious, but I moved my hand brake back 40mm and to the right 40mm by mounting it to a piece of 40 series mounted to the rearmost slot. The profile is held rock solid with two corner brackets in front and a 6 hole plate on the back.
I have my tow strap flipped out out of the way for this picture. It is much easier to pull this across the floor with the tow straps on both sides.
I also moved the sequential shifter to the right by reversing the bracket.
While everything worked well before, the sequential shifter crowded the wheel just a bit. This feels a bit better and I have no chance of accidentally brushing or nicking with my hand while I'm heavily drifting in rally and turning the wheel quickly.
The hand brake feels a bit better better too. It is moved back a bit so there is now zero chance of interference with the h pattern shifter.
To keep the reach similar it is now tilted towards me and has a more natural grip angle than being vertical.
This picture shows the current wrap around effect. Controls, mouse, water bottle, VR headset, phone, fan remote and of course button box are all very easy to reach.
Last edited:
RCHeliguy
Premium
It's been 3 weeks since I did anything to my rig!
Soooo.....
I ordered a Prusa i3 Mk3 and 4 x 1kg spools of PLA. It should be here in the next couple weeks.
I recently took my best SC2 wheel hanger and sanded it to 1200 grit and then polished it to perfection.
It's now sitting in silicone molding material. In the morning I'll remove it and try my hand at epoxy resin casting.
The deep pour epoxy I got takes a while to set, but allows up to 4" deep pours. I only need 3/4", but normal epoxy wouldn't work.
This will be my first attempt at molding epoxy and I'll start with a clear part ,just so I can see bubbles and how it is releasing. Then I'm going to mount it to my rig and see how durable it it.
If all goes well I'm going to mix the next one up in black.
If I pour it first thing tomorrow morning, my first resin cast should be ready late Tuesday.
Even though I have an earlier link to Thing-a-verse so anyone with a 3D printer can make their own, I had people who liked my design better and wanted me to make some for them. Hand fabricating them individually out of Delrin is too time consuming, so I'm hoping to create a bunch of molds so I can mix and pour a bunch of them at a time. We'll see what happens there. I tend to shy away from production, but time will tell.
Next project. My new 3/4 Hp buffer arrived. I'm planning to use that on aluminum.
The 3D printer is just a means to an end. I don't currently have any plans to make PLA thingys.
My plan is to model parts in Fusion 360, print them out, sand/bondo them, prime them and then use them as molds to sand cast aluminum. Which means I'm shopping for a metal furnace right now.
My first project will be for my sim rig, but I'm not going to spoil that until I have at least a 3D print of it
Soooo.....
I ordered a Prusa i3 Mk3 and 4 x 1kg spools of PLA. It should be here in the next couple weeks.
I recently took my best SC2 wheel hanger and sanded it to 1200 grit and then polished it to perfection.
It's now sitting in silicone molding material. In the morning I'll remove it and try my hand at epoxy resin casting.
The deep pour epoxy I got takes a while to set, but allows up to 4" deep pours. I only need 3/4", but normal epoxy wouldn't work.
This will be my first attempt at molding epoxy and I'll start with a clear part ,just so I can see bubbles and how it is releasing. Then I'm going to mount it to my rig and see how durable it it.
If all goes well I'm going to mix the next one up in black.
If I pour it first thing tomorrow morning, my first resin cast should be ready late Tuesday.
Even though I have an earlier link to Thing-a-verse so anyone with a 3D printer can make their own, I had people who liked my design better and wanted me to make some for them. Hand fabricating them individually out of Delrin is too time consuming, so I'm hoping to create a bunch of molds so I can mix and pour a bunch of them at a time. We'll see what happens there. I tend to shy away from production, but time will tell.
Next project. My new 3/4 Hp buffer arrived. I'm planning to use that on aluminum.
The 3D printer is just a means to an end. I don't currently have any plans to make PLA thingys.
My plan is to model parts in Fusion 360, print them out, sand/bondo them, prime them and then use them as molds to sand cast aluminum. Which means I'm shopping for a metal furnace right now.
My first project will be for my sim rig, but I'm not going to spoil that until I have at least a 3D print of it
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