Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[RCHeliguy]

I mounted 1/2" thick 30 durometer Sorbothane cushions on all 4 corners using 1/8" rubber washers on the top and bottom since Sorbothane is sticky gooey and I hard mounted the front center of the plate against a 3/4" spacer cylindrical spacer.

The combination works surprisingly well. The plate isn't moving horizontally in any way I can feel while braking. Having it hard mounted near where my foot is while braking helps, but because the footplate is sandwiched between the sorbothane pieces it as room to move both up and down without any major resistance on both sides and the effect is good.

I've re-positioned and mounted my dead pedal again. It fits easily behind the clutch pedal when I slide the clutch and brake to the left.

So far I'm pretty happy with it. I need to get two nuts on the back so I can lock them together, so they can't come loose. This is not a solution that you can tighten down hard enough to hold with a lock washer. I think I'll need to use locknuts, but I wanted to make sure it was right before I put those in place.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I've played with SimHub this morning a bunch this morning and I'm very happy!

Pinning the top of the plate down with a solid mount is having two side effects.

1. I still have great stereo separation. It is crystal clear! Seriously left and right sides feel very separate and clear. I know that wasn't expected, but it's excellent.
2. The vibrations are being transferred into the pedals more so I had clear effects while pressing my brake pedal

I had to play more with the frequency ranges which are more inline with the seat.

Loosening up the ends of the foot plate is allowing better amplitude out of the transducers. I feel like I have GOBS of tactile now. I've also increased the gain a bit on my new amplifier a bit and I so far the Auras are taking it well. I can pretty easily discern each effect. I'm sure I'll keep tweaking the settings a bit, but they feel great right now.

I moved the dead pedal a bit more to the left and angled it a bit more.

 

[Mr Latte]

Well, there you go ehh...
Good progress dude.

See isolators are important, they can greatly help with the quality of vibes the tactile will generate
This is what decoupling the attached/installed surface does

What "stereo" effects have you been trying because if you have still two units only inches apart on the same single surface, even if its isolated they will easily have crosstalk and you feel left operation in your right foot and vice versa.

Not going to cover all the aspects as its not a tactile thread but "stereo" effects do not always work in the manner that one is on while the other is off. Certain effects will displace energy still to both but it may be higher/stronger on one side than the other, for example suspension based bumps. If you easily let crosstalk to happen then you distort that original percentage of variation the telemetry determines based on the physics of the car and what energy each side is to receive.

In fact most peoples rigs I see with tactile, likely do not offer what we could call optimal stereo in seeking to maintain the proportional telemetry output and its created energy. Be this tactile or motion the same telemetry is used.

Some people don't mind, I'm fine with that too but gotta say I am in the mindset that if I am meant to be receiving proportional placed energy (like we do with actuators) then I want to feel it in my tactile.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Well, there you go ehh...
Good progress.

See isolators are important, they can greatly help with the quality of vibes the tactile will generate
This is what decoupling the attached/installed surface does

What "stereo" effects have you been trying because if you have still two units only inches apart on the same single surface, even if its isolated they will easily have crosstalk and you feel left operation in your right foot and vice versa.

Not going to cover all the aspects as its not a tactile thread but "stereo" effects do not always work in the manner that one is on while the other is off. Certain effects will displace energy still to both but it may be higher/stronger on one side than the other, for example suspension based bumps. If you easily let crosstalk to happen then you distort that original percentage of variation the telemetry determines based on the physics of the car and what energy each side is to receive.

In fact most peoples rigs I see with tactile, likely do not offer what we could call optimal stereo in seeking to maintain the telemetry output and its created energy be this tactile or motion to the correct channel/location.

I never suggested isolators were not important and I also know that you are not a huge fan of the motor mount type isolators that I was using before.

Crosstalk will occur, but given that my brake pedal slides significantly, I absolutely don't want to split my foot plate despite the tactile advantages. All I can say is that driving around the track felt wonderful and left and right tactile felt separated enough to give me the queues I want. Does that mean that there might now be interference under certain conditions with effects fighting for dominance. I'm sure, but in the heat of driving, I'm not noticing it. So while not perfect, for the moment I'm calling it good enough for my needs.

 

[Mr Latte]

I was trying to just highlight they "were important" as many people still do not use them or try to decouple pedal/seat regions of a cockpit. It wasn't a dig at you in any way or personal and yes its progress to you enjoying the tactile more and thats what matters.

Looking at this thread and updates, there is a chance you will seek later to change it or take it further at some point. Often you say you are happy with something but still want to tinker.

I tested split plates 3mm gap its possible if they have enough support.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Looking at this thread and updates, there is a chance you will seek later to change it or take it further at some point. Often you say you are happy with something but still want to tinker.

What? Never!

Basically I'm happy until I think of a better solution.

My seat is somewhat decoupled because of the NLRv3. I do have one transducer specifically mounted to the frame opposite my h pattern shifter and mounted to the side of the wheel base support arch. That allows me to get sensations into my stick shift and into my wheel.

 

[RCHeliguy]

My next project is to try out aluminum brazing which I think I could use in the future. It appears to work pretty well based on the YouTube videos I've watched.

There is nothing wrong with my current foot plate other than the holes in it from previous configurations. It would be cheaper to just buy some new plate and drill it out fresh, but I think I'll fill the holes in with aluminum brazing and then sand it smooth. It may not be as cosmetically perfect as a new plate, but it would let me try out something new and I suspect once I open the door to building structures out of aluminum that my creative juices will flow

Alumaloy 20 Rods - Easy, Simple Welding Rods, Aluminum Repair Rods - - Amazon.com

Alumaloy 20 Rods - Easy, Simple Welding Rods, Aluminum Repair Rods - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: TurboTorch 0386-0851 STK-99 Torch Swirl, MAP-Pro/LP Gas, Self Lighting : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: TurboTorch 0386-0851 STK-99 Torch Swirl, MAP-Pro/LP Gas, Self Lighting : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

 

[Timobkg]

Pretty sure you'll spend more on corners and hinges. Installation with Sim-lab bracket is easier and cleaner, but it's your choice.

0305200907.jpg

drive.google.com

Thanks for sharing that. You look to have the exact setup that I would be trying to achieve.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Thanks for sharing that. You look to have the exact setup that I would be trying to achieve.

Yeah, it's a tight area to put a bunch of components, but with the amazing flexibility of the rig is perfectly doable. This is how shifter is bolted to the frame.

0403201221.jpg

drive.google.com

 

[RCHeliguy]

I normally consider LED lighting on rigs tacky, but I love the work Chris has done to his rig and while this really is just for aesthetics, I think using SimHub to drive the arduino boards driving the LED's based on telemetry data is a very cool idea!

I'm afraid, I will not be able to resist the urge....

 

[Deleted member 197115]

 

[KnIgHtCoM]

Would love to rig some LED's into the rear slots of the rig and simulate brake lights!

 

[Mr Latte]

Perhaps a personal thing...
As a fun thing that could be turned off when wanted, I would rather have the LEDs work vertically for the suspension on each SFX actuator, that to me would make more sense or appeal to visually accentuate the motion with lighting. Quite an awesome rig it is but that looks a bit too much.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Perhaps a personal thing...
As a fun thing that could be turned off when wanted, I would rather have the LEDs work vertically for the suspension on each SFX actuator, that to me would make more sense or appeal to visually accentuate the motion with lighting. Quite an awesome rig it is but that looks a bit too much.

FWIW, I starting thinking about the extra wiring and configuration and the fact that I only sim in VR, and decided better of it. I sim without an audience the VAST majority of the time, so this would be a lot of wasted effort. I also experiment a lot with control placement etc. and I could see having LED's in the slots as becoming a pain point for me.

I did get some 8mm ID, 11mm OD silicone tubing that I want to use to prevent my foot plate from binding on the bolt threads, mostly from a potential noise standpoint, but I think it just makes sense.

The 4 outer holes are currently beveled with a sharp 8mm hole at the bottom. I have some aluminum brazing rods ordered and I'm planning to fill the holes on my foot plate that are no longer in use, and to drill out the 4 corner holes to 11mm. I only had up to 10mm in metric jobber drills, so I ordered a few 11mm bits.

I'm pretty excited about the possibilities that open up once I'm comfortable with brazing aluminum together

 

[RCHeliguy]

Brazing aluminum is a bust. Apparently 1/4" thick aluminum is too thick for me to heat enough with propane to get the aluminum rod material to stick to it The rod would melt, but I couldn't even fill the holes with it. There was zero adhesion.

So I'll end up needing new aluminum plate before I redo my foot plate.

However I did drill out the corner holes to 11mm so the silcone tubing would fit. I like this better since the screw threads can't bind on the aluminum plate. It also goes together much easier since the bolts are held in place much better and I can just drop it in.

The foot plate is quieter now with the silicone tubing in place, AND it seems a bit more efficient. I just turned down the amp on my front two transducers. It was a bit to much. Very happy with how this is working

 

[ToeIn]

Hi - New to *this* forum but we have interacted on a helicopter site.

I am looking to build a 8020 cockpit for racing. If you had it to do over would you still start with the P1-X or just scratch build the cockpit?

 

[RCHeliguy]

Hi - New to *this* forum but we have interacted on a helicopter site.

I am looking to build a 8020 cockpit for racing. If you had it to do over would you still start with the P1-X or just scratch build the cockpit?

There are a number of Sim-Lab parts that I really like a lot even after everything I changed.

That's a tough question because I'm not sure I could make their current pedal adjustment system work for me and I don't need their adjustable feet. I know exactly what parts I could order to make a pedal deck that works for me. I would still want their vertical mount for my SC2. OTOH I would probably spec slightly taller side wheel support profile, but only because of my NLRv3. Otherwise it is a great size.

It is still a great starting point and unless you know exactly where you are going to end up with your rig, it's a great place to start. Also in the US 8020 profile in those sizes is pretty expensive, so it's not much of a savings not to start with one.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Most people are using P1-X in stock (if you can call it that way) form in different configurations, so flexible it is.
For some tinkering is just another hobby, you can't stop creativity.

 

[ToeIn]

There are a number of Sim-Lab parts that I really like a lot even after everything I changed.

That's a tough question because I'm not sure I could make their current pedal adjustment system work for me and I don't need their adjustable feet. I know exactly what parts I could order to make a pedal deck that works for me. I would still want their vertical mount for my SC2. OTOH I would probably spec slightly taller side wheel support profile, but only because of my NLRv3. Otherwise it is a great size.

It is still a great starting point and unless you know exactly where you are going to end up with your rig, it's a great place to start. Also in the US 8020 profile in those sizes is pretty expensive, so it's not much of a savings not to start with one.

Thanks!

 

[RCHeliguy]

I found out that 8020.net is still operating since their products are sometimes used in the construction of some ventilators.

To clean up my foot pedal area I'm replacing the 40x40 on top of 40x80 on each side supporting the pedal deck with a single piece of 40x120 on each side. This will remove multiple levels of fasteners. The end result should be much more aesthetically pleasing and free up a bunch of profile that I can play with. The current setup has two pieces of 40x40 inline on each side on top of the 40x80 using the SimLab P1 foot plate side pieces to hold it together. This "beautification effort" is about $100.

Before I ordered the new profile I stacked a piece of 40x80 on top of the current foot plate to make sure I didn't want my pedals any higher and should order 40x160 instead, but putting my heels that high that brought my knees up too close to the underside of the vertical wheelbase support. But that got me thinking and I ended up moving my steering wheel up a tiny bit and I added a bit more tilt and moved my sequential shifter forward a bit and moved the H pattern shifter forward a bit. As always I'm feeling like everything is much better. LOL!

How many times can you move things around and feel like you've made big improvements? That may be like asking how many licks does it take to get to the center of a Charms blow pop.

I also ordered some 6"x 1/4" aluminum plate for a fresh foot plate without so many extraneous holes in it and got some extra stock to play with. I'm going to move the corner holes inboard so the sorbothane doesn't hang over the edges like it does now and I have a few other ideas.