Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

RCHeliguy · Feb 23, 2020

When I inverted the pedals, I had to shorten the 80x120 profile the plate is mounted to and I couldn't get the brake to the left as much as I wanted. After testing the clutch without the left most quick releases in place it was obvious that the clutch wasn't flexing the 1/4" aluminum plate and with the 4 quick releases around the brake, the brake is still well covered.

So now there are only 4 quick releases keeping the clutch and brake plate in place making that operation faster and I'm much happier with the brake pedal .75" more to the left.

RCHeliguy · Feb 29, 2020

As pretty as everything else looks, it was only a matter of time before I upgraded from my ghetto DIY tactile amplifier to something a bit more polished.

So good bye plywood and hello Behringer NX4-6000.

The upgrade is mostly upside except for the cooling fans being louder.

It can also drive Butt Kicker LFE's in the future, so there's that possibility.

The connections on the back are just a bit more professional than what I was using before.

Mr Latte · Feb 29, 2020

Think you got a bargain.

Its a quality amp for sure (maybe change the fans) I just wish that model with 4 channels had the DSP as it can bring so much more control to how your units perform. Do keep an eye out on ebay for a large BK unit, but having the amp to power them is excellent progress.

This quality of rig deserves good tactile and should add so much more to your fun and immersion.

Are you an iPad owner?

RCHeliguy · Feb 29, 2020

My wife has an iPad that she rarely uses.

It did seem like a good deal and I'm very surprised it was supposed to be a demo unit, because it looked absolutely new.

I have at least connected it to my transducers and seen that it is powerful, but I haven't had a chance to really test it out.

RCHeliguy · Mar 1, 2020

I have done some testing and the BX4-6000 can drive my Auras about 8Hz lower with authority and the transducers are running a bit quieter. I suspect I was clipping with my DIY amp, but that is just a guess.

I am running a bit more power to my Aura's now and it feels good. It's not a big difference and if it wasn't for the aesthetics and ability to run more powerful transducers in the future, I wouldn't have upgraded.

Timobkg · Mar 5, 2020

Thank you for detailing your rig build like this, and also your thinking behind the changes and upgrades. It's very useful for one currently planning to build a rig of their own - even if some of it goes over my head and I've already forgotten on which page you detailed how you built your dead pedal.

For the Hueskenveld hand brake, did you need to order the bracket from Sim-Lab to mount it on the frame?

RCHeliguy · Mar 5, 2020

Timobkg said:
Thank you for detailing your rig build like this, and also your thinking behind the changes and upgrades. It's very useful for one currently planning to build a rig of their own - even if some of it goes over my head and I've already forgotten on which page you detailed how you built your dead pedal.

For the Hueskenveld hand brake, did you need to order the bracket from Sim-Lab to mount it on the frame?

The Sim-Lab bracket should be more convenient. The stock bracket will work, but it cumbersome and doesn't have much clearance.

The stock HE bracket requires you to remove the hand brake from the bracket before you can move the bracket on the profile. I believe the Sim-Lab bracket has a bolt hole above and below that you can access without removing the hand brake from the bracket. So you can remove the hand brake or adjust its height with two easily accessible bolts.

I ended up with something more elaborate also using the stock HE bracket. What I did below was semi tighten the hinges and then pull the handbrake towards me so it would be at the optimum ergonomic angle. Then I tightened the hinges. Since it is set to the angle that I naturally pull at there isn't much tension on the hinge itself.

2 x corners + 2 x hinges spaced to line up with the two HE bracket holes in the center of the bracket.

Timobkg · Mar 5, 2020

Thanks for explaining that.

So if I understand correctly, the Sim-Lab bracket makes it slightly easier to attach the hand brake and much easier to adjust it up and down if you're bolting it directly onto the profile, but if I copy your clever ergonomic mounting I won't need it since I would be using the corners to adjust the height and I could put that money towards the two corners and hinges?

RCHeliguy · Mar 5, 2020

Yes, you could do that. I have the Sim-Lab hand brake bracket for the Fanatec hand brake I used to have and it worked well, but if you go the route I did than it is unnecessary.

FYI Sim-Lab sells those hinges too. Last time I checked it was less expensive than from 8020.

Timobkg · Mar 5, 2020

Excellent. I'm going to bookmark this page so I remember to add them to the order for when I eventually order the P1 to save on shipping.

Any other additions you would recommend? I'm planning to also get the keyboard tray, the mouse pad, sliders for the seat and pedals, and mounting brackets for the shifter I have now and the Fanatec shifter that I'd like to get in the future (unless a better H shifter appears in the same general price range between now and then - I'm looking at you, HE). I figure I should get everything I expect to need in one order while shipping is only an extra $1 per item, since it looks like shipping for a single item afterwards is $20+.

RCHeliguy · Mar 5, 2020

I would get a pile of extra Connector brackets, Cable management clips, the Joints are the hinges I referred too. Extra Slot nuts in 4,5,6 and lots of 8mm.

You would be surprised how often just having these things around helps.

RCHeliguy · Mar 5, 2020

I've been thinking that rather than completely revamp my foot plate transducer setup with under mount transducers that I could just use support extensions on either side and extend the length of the foot plate a bit to move the transducers 1" further out on each side, but have them supported on the outsider edge and then the center of the plate. This way the energy from each side should reach my feet and hopefully I would get better stereo separation. Currently there is only 1 center support and the tranducers are hanging, so I suspect most of the energy is lost before I feel anything.

Deleted member 197115 · Mar 5, 2020

Timobkg said:
Thanks for explaining that.

So if I understand correctly, the Sim-Lab bracket makes it slightly easier to attach the hand brake and much easier to adjust it up and down if you're bolting it directly onto the profile, but if I copy your clever ergonomic mounting I won't need it since I would be using the corners to adjust the height and I could put that money towards the two corners and hinges?

Pretty sure you'll spend more on corners and hinges. Installation with Sim-lab bracket is easier and cleaner, but it's your choice.

0305200907.jpg

drive.google.com

RCHeliguy · Mar 5, 2020

The hinges are 9.xx euro each from Simlab and the corners come in packs. The overall price isn't that big a deal.

The bigger issue is whether that solution is a match for your particular rig and depending on how you have everything mounted it may or may not be a good match.

@Andrew_WOT has a perfectly good solution that looks like it works well. In my case there is a Pro Sim H pattern shifter completely covering that horizontal profile.

RCHeliguy · Mar 6, 2020

After a lot of wavering back and forth I went with the under foot plate transducer mounts.

There is now a transducer under each heel now and I am getting excellent stereo separation. More so than I expected with only one center support. @Mr Latte thanks for getting me thinking about improving my pedal transducer setup. This is a huge improvement!

I've had it suggested by someone using the same mounts as me that I drill horizontal holes in the rubber mounts to allow more transducer impact to come through. Interesting....

The effects are much tighter now, but surprisingly the energy doesn't feel stronger, just more controlled. I'm guessing that having them hanging cantilevered out managed to get some resonance frequencies going.

There is also no longer any interference with a dead pedal now and I can even easily reach the clutch if I wanted to use it for some reason with the pedals spread out.

I cut down my existing foot plate as a proof of concept so cosmetically it is a bit of Swiss cheese at the moment, now to test things out and see how this works.

KnIgHtCoM · Mar 7, 2020

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about the evolution of your sim rig. I am at the beginning of my journey and waiting on parts to build a GT1 Evo. I was wondering where you source all your extra 8020 profile extrusions and connector brackets from? Do you cut the lengths yourself or order the sizes precut? I'm located in CA, so trying to find a local source based in the US as ordering extra parts from Sim-Lab won't be cheap or fast for shipping.

Mr Latte · Mar 7, 2020

Excellent if you are finding improvements.
This below would need some additional 8020 profile and done wider to surround the current transducer. Also using a new wider footplate. That could then be drilled to support future BK Advances or BK Concerts etc

I would recommend you have L/R supports with 4 isolators but as independent sides not a single section.
This would ensure excellent stereo effects.

You may also be able to have a connection between the footplate and the pedal stem section, this will let the tactile energy come through both then your toes (pedal plates) and heel (footplate).

I certainly think it might be worth experimenting with or testing having a tactile unit at pedal stems area even for mono effects like (rpm) (speed).

RCHeliguy · Mar 7, 2020

@Mr Latte
I was originally planning to have support in front of the foot plate. Unfortunately it would interfere with my flight pedals when I slide the entire foot/pedal deck forward. I'd be forced to completely remove the foot/pedal deck to accommodate a front support and at least with my current mindset that would be a deal breaker.

The stereo separation is already surprisingly good. I can VERY clearly feel which side is firing.

The suggestion of drilling the rubber isolators might be something I consider to lessen the dampening a bit.

I have considered mounting a transducer to the top of the pedal deck to get get effects into the pedals. I've seen it done with a similar inverted setup to mine and understand it works well.