Logitech pedals working wonky, inputs incorrect

[Hoksu]

My Logitech G920 pedals have worked fine for years (so warranty is long gone) but now suddenly throttle and brake report bizarre inputs, with brake and throttle being mixed and not registering fully, clutch works ok. Sometimes gas pedal works as it should, sometimes when pressing this is what happens when gas pedal is fully pressed (not pressing brake):

What should be 100% gas, 0% brake is 50% gas 90% brake.

Similar thing with brake, sometimes when pressing it works as it should but sometimes it's like this when pressing brake only (not pressing gas):

Likewise what should be 100% brake 0% throttle is 30% brake 40% throttle

Same thing happens in CM, AC, ACC, DR2.0. I have tried reinstalling drivers, resetting and re-plugging wheel, different USB port, no effect. Can this be fixed somehow?

 

[Hoksu]

I found a guide about fixing pedals so I disassembled as instructed. It's dirty certainly but the connections to the potentiometers and ground appear flawless.

 

[Neilski]

The pots in Logitech pedals become dirty/worn/unreliable after prolonged use, and there may also be an elapsed time and/or dust ingress issue. When that happens, stuff like you've observed tends to be the symptom. My clutch was the least used pedal and had the best behaviour of the three...

Cleaning the pots once you get the pedals as disassembled as shown in the pic can be as simple as squirting some electrical contact cleaner in there, or as painful as dismounting and dismantling the pots to clean the innards (probably not worth it in my experience).

 

[Hoksu]

The pots in Logitech pedals become dirty/worn/unreliable after prolonged use, and there may also be an elapsed time and/or dust ingress issue. When that happens, stuff like you've observed tends to be the symptom. My clutch was the least used pedal and had the best behaviour of the three...

Cleaning the pots once you get the pedals as disassembled as shown in the pic can be as simple as squirting some electrical contact cleaner in there, or as painful as dismounting and dismantling the pots to clean the innards (probably not worth it in my experience).

Thanks for the advice, I've been using compressed air to clean it but electrical contact cleaner seems like a smart thing to do now that the pots are out. Dismantling the whole pot seems way beyond my skills

 

[Neilski]

Dismantling the whole pot seems way beyond my skills

Honestly it's just a slog, no particular skill needed. But having opened up my pedals to clean the pots probably 5+ times at this stage, the extra duration I got from the "proper" physical cleaning I could carry out with the pots in bits (probably did this twice ever) wasn't long enough to justify the huge increase in the effort.

IMO, a better fix is to either use a pot-converter kit like the one I bought from 3DRap (may still be available), which converts the pedals to use standard* pots and is pretty decent all things considered, OR to convert the pedals to Hall sensors, which ought to mean you *never* need to open the little buggers again. (Nice, given the 50 billion screws involved )
Not sure if any off-the-shelf Hall kits are available these days, but I'm about to finally get around to rebuilding my pedals with the DIY Hall conversion bits that @GeekyDeaks and I developed together (I'm flattering myself in this sentence!) in another forum thread.
The 3DRap-style conversion is almost entirely doable with just normal tools, but I seem to recall having had to use a soldering iron to connect the terminals to the new pots because they weren't quite the same shape.

[* unlike the stupid oddball non-standard Logitech ones which they won't sell you , cos e-waste isn't a thing, right?]

 

[Hoksu]

I'm very pleased to report that after squirting some electronic components cleaner in the potentiometers, the pedals are working again. Thanks a lot for the help @Neilski

 

[Hoksu]

Another problem with my G920: the right paddle shifter is constantly registering a single press as double, left one works fine. Used to happen only occasionally but now it's every lap so it's getting on my nerves. A similar fix I reckon? Disassemble, clean and maybe adjust the switch a bit?

 

[Neilski]

Another problem with my G920: the right paddle shifter is constantly registering a single press as double, left one works fine. Used to happen only occasionally but now it's every lap so it's getting on my nerves. A similar fix I reckon? Disassemble, clean and maybe adjust the switch a bit?

Probably a new switch will be required I'm afraid. I can't recall ever having to do this on my G27, so I'm not sure if compatible switches are available, but on a previous generation of Logitech wheel (Wingman Formula Force maybe?) I was able to use a pretty normal microswitch.

 

[Hoksu]

Probably a new switch will be required I'm afraid. I can't recall ever having to do this on my G27, so I'm not sure if compatible switches are available, but on a previous generation of Logitech wheel (Wingman Formula Force maybe?) I was able to use a pretty normal microswitch.

Was hoping I wouldn't have to go there since I don't have a clue about electronic stuff. Here's a photo of the microswitch. Make and model seems to be Trantek 16500

 

[Neilski]

Was hoping I wouldn't have to go there since I don't have a clue about electronic stuff. Here's a photo of the microswitch. Make and model seems to be Trantek 16500

Well, if you can find a compatible switch, you just need to get the assistance of someone with a soldering iron to swap out the switch (would likely make sense to do the other paddle as well, while you're doing that).

 

[Hoksu]

Actually it seems new microswitches won't be necessary. Since the "squirt some electronics cleaner" method worked like a charm with pedals, I opened the microswitch and tried it again. Just did 20+ laps with 0 double switches when earlier today it happened pretty much every lap. Hopefully that fixed it

 

[Neilski]

Actually it seems new microswitches won't be necessary. Since the "squirt some electronics cleaner" method worked like a charm with pedals, I opened the microswitch and tried it again. Just did 20+ laps with 0 double switches when earlier today it happened pretty much every lap. Hopefully that fixed it

Wow, nice one!

 

[Hoksu]

Well the double shifting was fixed but now my right paddle has stopped working completely. It no longer makes an audible click when pressing so seems like a mechanical problem

edit: turns out I broke the plastic on the microswitch when opening it so the lid that keeps the metal part in place came off. Some glue or tape or a zip tie will fix it. Lesson here though: be very, very careful when opening a microswitch, I wasn't

 

[Neilski]

Well the double shifting was fixed but now my right paddle has stopped working completely. It no longer makes an audible click when pressing so seems like a mechanical problem

edit: turns out I broken the plastic on the microswitch when opening it so the lid that keeps the metal part in place came off. Some glur or tape or a zip tie will fix it. Lesson here though: be very, very careful when opening a microswitch, I wasn't

Well, the failures I've had with microswitches all seemed to be mechanical*, which was why I was surprised that contact cleaner helped at all. Fair play for taking it apart and getting it to work again afterwards!
[*However, most of those failures - in wheels, mice etc. - have been with the tiny square kind which look vaguely like this:

]

 

[Michael Krone]

Was gonna offer you those switches as I have that board with them still attached but it looks like you fixed it. Nice!

EDIT: Maybe I didnt read carefully enought, looks like its not working so well?

Side note: As mentioned above, the failures I have had with microswitches were mechanical. The metal lever always falls off.

Anyway, I have it if you want it. Just message me.

 

[Hoksu]

It's fixed now, thanks though

 

[RasmusP]

Nice that everything seems to be fixed for now!
If you ever need to de-solder the microswitch;
You need a POWERFUL soldering iron!
I have a simply plug-in/out 35W Esa iron and it couldn't de-solder the switches in my Logitech mouse.
It would just heat up the whole board since the heat absorbtion was quicker than the 35W iron could melt the solder.

It was always fine for doing the soldering stuff in my electric guitars but not for this!

I then used a 80W soldering "station" with adjustable temperature.
Easy peasy, touching the solder, instantly fluid without the board getting too warm!

 

[Hoksu]

Everything was fixed for a short time until another problem emerged, now the right paddle often does not detect when pressing it, even when you hear the audible click that should mean it's pressed. Left paddle works flawlessly as ever.

A powerful soldering iron is something I don't have. Kinda starting to look like it's less trouble to get a new wheel rather than keep spending money on fixing this piece of garbage