Logitech G27 problem or Assetto Corsa?

Hi Folks, I am wondering if any one can help with a problem I seem to be having with my G27. Basically just bought AC and have been really enjoying it thus far, That was until today when my hardly used G27 started losing all control when in the Tatus race, For example I was coming down the start and finish straight at Monza and then everything just went off, I had no steering, No gas, No brake and yet the gas was fully locked on ( akin to a stuck throttle ) and I ended up doing a nice barrel roll and ended up at the 1st chicane upside down.

As soon it came to stop, All the controls worked again just fine, Strange I thought, So I restarted and all was fine until about lap 3 when the same thing happened again and it was exactly like it was before and once the car stopped it was fine again. I have not had much chance to test with any other sim as yet I just wanted to know if any-one else has experienced anything like this with their G27?

I will continue to look for a solution and I am hoping my G27 is not faulty..:(. Any ideas please share chaps!
 
Sounds like a faulty wheel I'm afraid. I have the same combination, and no problems thus far. Check the cable first.

This is my fear Dewald, That said it has been fine up to the issue I am having in racing. I am just installing my old dirt 3 to see if it happens in that as well. What is the deal with Logitech warranty? I don't want to be without my wheel for long! Thanks for your reply btw ;)
 
Upvote 0
Hi Folks, I am wondering if any one can help with a problem I seem to be having with my G27. No gas, No brake and yet the gas was fully locked on ( akin to a stuck throttle ) and I ended up doing a nice barrel roll and ended up at the 1st chicane upside down.

As soon it came to stop, All the controls worked again just fine....

Yes, I have had exactly the same thing, in GSC and in Simbin Race Series. The steering and throttle would freeze, and my pro-race dashboard display would also freeze, and I would be straight into the tyres, then everything was ok again, but too late to save my race lol.
But I cured it in the end. I cannot say 100% which was the cause, but I moved the wheel from my powered usb hub and plugged it directly into a usb port on the desktop case. I also went into my bios and found that the usb speed was set at full instead of high speed, so I changed it to high. It has not happened again, since last April. So a usb with a solid power source seems to be essential for it.
I now always plug my controllers directly into the desktop usb ports instead of a hub.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Yes, I have had exactly the same thing, in GSC and in Simbin Race Series. The steering and throttle would freeze, and my pro-race dashboard display would also freeze, and I would be straight into the tyres, then everything was ok again, but too late to save my race lol.
But I cured it in the end. I cannot say 100% which was the cause, but I moved the wheel from my powered usb hub and plugged it directly into a usb port on the desktop case. I also went into my bios and found that the usb speed was set at full instead of high speed, so I changed it to high. It has not happened again, since last April. So a usb with a solid power source seems to be essential for it.
I now always plug my controllers directly into the desktop usb ports instead of a hub.

Yes, happened to me as well, in GT Legends a while back. Changing the USB port did the trick.

Seems like logical explanations fellas, Thanks. I have my usb in my front panel of my pc case and I am gonna have a look tomorrow, In case anything is a little loose. Seems weird though that I have just done a 20 lap stint hot-lapping at Monza with the same car and it has been fine. Only time it has happened has been during the Tatus race and that has been twice.
 
Upvote 0
Yes, everyone seems to recommend to use the back USB ports, and to avoid the front panel ones.

Can't think of a reason why it would be different in practice and in a race. Fingers crossed that a different USB port will fix it.
 
Upvote 0
Yes, everyone seems to recommend to use the back USB ports, and to avoid the front panel ones.

Can't think of a reason why it would be different in practice and in a race. Fingers crossed that a different USB port will fix it.

The only reason I can think of is power consumption - more cars, more smoke, more sounds during a race, saps the usb power and causes the lockup.
 
Upvote 0

Latest News

Are you buying car setups?

  • Yes

  • No


Results are only viewable after voting.
Back
Top