Logitech G27 Force Feedback FFB Assetto Corsa - A.S way

[=A.S=]

WheelCheck.. FCM tool Lut Converter.. FFBClip App .. tried them all . . and wasted alot of time testing pretty much every guide out there.. till i was like.. ok . time to think.. and not replicate things like a parot.. and VIO LA.. never been so good before. Let me know how it works out for ya. Enjoy !

G27 Owners .. simplicity is DEVINE!

The confusion and frustration of the G27 not being a good wheel and the pain to set it up correctly.. its your christmas today.. try.. and thank me later.
Without going into once again confusing technical details.. straight forward.

1)
120% in oder to eliminated the "deadzone behaviour" or interfacing bug of the G27 completly - just by doing that

40% - 55% dampening, because otherwise your wheel will turn loose if car isn´t rolling. Standing rubbers still provide resistance on the steering wheel. ( i have to in 70% as the not roll resistance should be higher than the slow roll one)

2)

Under C:\Users\UserName\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg in the controls.ini file edit like this:

[STEER]
JOY=0
AXLE=0
SCALE=1
LOCK=855
FF_GAIN=1
FILTER_FF=0.6
STEER_GAMMA=1
STEER_FILTER=0
SPEED_SENSITIVITY=0
MIN=0
MAX=0
DEBOUNCING_MS=5

[FF_TWEAKS]
MIN_FF=0
CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=0
CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0

[FF_ENHANCEMENT] (or 0 them out.. and do by car individually)
CURBS=0.15
ROAD=0.05
SLIPS=0.1
ABS=0.05

[FF_ENHANCEMENT_2]
UNDERSTEER=1


3)

Create a file Linear.txt file in the C:\Users\UserName\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg folder, open it with notepad or editor and add:

0.00|0.00
0.02|0.02
0.04|0.04
0.06|0.06
0.08|0.08
0.10|0.10
0.12|0.12
0.14|0.14
0.16|0.16
0.18|0.18
0.20|0.20
0.22|0.22
0.24|0.24
0.26|0.26
0.28|0.28
0.30|0.30
0.32|0.32
0.34|0.34
0.36|0.36
0.38|0.38
0.40|0.40
0.42|0.42
0.44|0.44
0.46|0.46
0.48|0.48
0.50|0.50
0.52|0.52
0.54|0.54
0.56|0.56
0.58|0.58
0.60|0.60
0.62|0.62
0.64|0.64
0.66|0.66
0.68|0.68
0.70|0.70
0.72|0.72
0.74|0.74
0.76|0.76
0.78|0.78
0.80|0.80
0.82|0.82
0.84|0.84
0.86|0.86
0.88|0.88
0.90|0.90
0.92|0.92
0.94|0.94
0.96|0.96
0.98|0.98
1.00|1.00

There you go, you wanted a linear G27.. there you have it now.

After that, rename the Linear.txt file to " Linear.lut" (lima, utha, tango) and save it.

4)

Open the ff_post_process.ini file and change it to:

[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=LUT
ENABLED=1

[GAMMA]
VALUE=1

[LUT]
CURVE=Linear.lut

5)

Open the assetto_corsa.ini file under :\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg and make sure the following part look like this

[FORCE_FEEDBACK]
FF_SKIP_STEPS=1

[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=0
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0
DAMPER_GAIN=1.0

6)

ingame should now look like this:

Here you can also use 60-70% as GAIN Main and Filter ZERO !!

 

[RasmusP]

@Tatuus drivers (basically @RasmusP lol): is the FFB on your G27 always light, especially when you have oversteer? It's impossible to me catch any slide on Assetto Corsa. I use LUT generator, WheelCheck, FFB Clip, everything that you can find on here. So far the AC FFB has been just a nightmare to me.

Kind of in the Tatuus yeah. But it's hitting the maximum of the G27 when you are really cornering.
I tried it all too, can only recommend to use my latest LUT etc. If you didn't tried already

 

[gruvendubs]

@Tatuus drivers (basically @RasmusP lol): is the FFB on your G27 always light, especially when you have oversteer? It's impossible to me catch any slide on Assetto Corsa. I use LUT generator, WheelCheck, FFB Clip, everything that you can find on here. So far the AC FFB has been just a nightmare to me.

^ this has always been my biggest problem too!
I can get decent road feel and the response between sim and wheel seem to be 1:1 accuracy but when it comes to an oversteer situation, everything goes out the window and the car slides off the track no matter how slow im going there is no saving it. It has really put a damper on my lap times considering i can't go to the limit of grip because if it loses it for a split second there is no coming back with brake, throttle, or steering input. The Lut i got from @RasmusP has transformed the FFB into something wonderful but the stuck in a slide has not gone away and i don't know what to do about it.

 

[RasmusP]

I can only recommend to download this:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/skidpad.5554/

go on there with the BMW E30 M3 Drift and train drifting while driving circles. For many people it's not really natural how oversteer feels in the wheel. In real life you feel the loss of traction on the rear and how your butt starts to go wide.
The problem in a sim when you only have a wheel is that the front tires, where the wheel is attached to, don't really do something. They still have traction, they are pointing in the direction of the corner and they seem to be just "normal".
So the real beginning of a slide is only visible! Visible in a term that your cockpit will start to turn further into the corner without you actually turning the wheel more.
The moment you really feel something it's mostly too late but there is a little moment when you can feel the start of the slide in the wheel too. The resistance of the wheel will become a liiiiittle bit different. I sadly can't describe it better.
After that you need to feel that "the center of your steering wheel" isn't in the middle anymore (0°).

So in other words: While cornering your "center of the steering wheel" will still be at 0°, because if you let go of it, your car will just drive in a straight line (more or less). So when you are cornering without over or understeer and let's say you need to turn your wheel 90°, you are "90° away from the center".
When you drift, your "direction of the momentum" will be different from the direction of the car. Since your front wheels always aim for going in the direction of the momentum, your "center of the steering wheel" will be at let's say 90° at the opposite direction.

To built a situation: You are cornering, with 90° turn in angle. Then your rear steps out so your "momentum" would point to 90° opposite direction, your "virtual turn in angle" will move from 90° -> to 180°.
And that's the only thing you can actually feel in your hands!

In short: go on the skidpad, learn to drift, you will learn to feel the start of slide better. Don't wonder, a friend of mine needed 2 hours to feel it

Little extension on this:
When you want to drift, you don't need to do much with your steering wheel, you turn in a bit, slam the throttle and let go of your front wheels. They will move into the direction of the momentum on their own. Then you only need to grip the steering wheel again and modulate the throttle. When to grip and how to modulate depends on the drift angle.

The problem in general: when your rear wheels find grip again, your direction of the momentum will move back to the car's pointing direction! When your steering wheel (+ front wheels) are still in the position of the drift, you will get the snap-back and spin out!

 

[SirVanhan]

I can feel when the oversteer is starting, because the wheel gets unrealistically light. On a real race car that's not the case, when it happened to me I felt a heavy snap on the wheel, nor in any other simulator. I would understand not noticing the slide, but it's the instant lack of total grip and feel that buffles me. It's like slipping on ice and the sensation continues until you are out of the sand or grass (actually ice). I mean take iRacing, which is famous for its ice sudden snap oversteer physics. With all its problems, you still feel that the car and the track are there, while with AC everything disappears. I can't understand if it's the game, the wheel or my configuration.

 

[RasmusP]

That sound's strange indeed For me the oversteer feels more or less the same in AMS, rF2, AC, pcars 2 and R3E.
In fact AC is kind of the strongest in this regard, which is why it's used a lot for drifting.

As I mention drifting: maybe if you find time you could try to drift with the said combination (the E30 M3 Drift has an insane steering lock that's why) and report how that feels

 

[gruvendubs]

that's the strange part, I can already drift in AC no problem. if I want to force oversteer it's not an issue but if i want to drive a clean line on a track i get thrown off the track on any corner i go over like 50mph on. It's almost like the weight transfer overcomes the amount of usable grip from the tires and "pulls them off the road"resulting in an un-savable slide. I have used your LUT to dial in steering response and FFB feel but this issue will not go away no matter what i do.

 

[SirVanhan]

sure, this has been explained before.
We use an automatic procedure to generate the FF default levels. The target is not to "avoid any clipping" but to keep the level "under normal driving" around 90% in order to allow for enough headroom to convey useful information.There is no reason to avoid clipping altogether, high frequency clipping peaks are totally fine, they don't transmit useful information other than "oh there's a small clip there".
Again, I've said this before, my simulators are the ones that introduced the concept of "clipping" and FF levels with netKar into simracing, no other sim before included a "ff meter with a clip led"... fast forward 15 years and people turned it into a religion without really understanding what it was all about.
On consumer wheels (such as the G27) power is a scarce resource and needs to be used at its maximum to convey the best useful signal possible.. going taleban over peaks is simply wasting signal to optimize it for the exceptional case.

Regarding OP, nothing really much to say.. he proposes a linear LUT without realizing it does absolutely nothing other than waste CPU cycles, a 120% on the driver that who knows what it does (non linear? clipping? well.. it feelz good so whatever right?), filter on the FF signal that removes info and introduces lag and calls it "devine"...
as a G27 user myself all I can say is ... bhaaa

Excuse me, Stefano. Could you kindly post your FFB settings? And so do you advice against FFB clip app and LUT generator?

 

[RasmusP]

that's the strange part, I can already drift in AC no problem. if I want to force oversteer it's not an issue but if i want to drive a clean line on a track i get thrown off the track on any corner i go over like 50mph on. It's almost like the weight transfer overcomes the amount of usable grip from the tires and "pulls them off the road"resulting in an un-savable slide. I have used your LUT to dial in steering response and FFB feel but this issue will not go away no matter what i do.

Could you do a video that shows this? No matter how, you can even film a replay with your phone, I don't care!

 

[SirVanhan]

I just want to say that @RasmusP is the best. He almost sort out my everlasting issues with AC FFB. I'll have to tweak it here and there to my likings, but I think we're there. Again thank you Rasmus, you are the best. Everybody has to know that.

 

[StefanoCasillo]

Excuse me, Stefano. Could you kindly post your FFB settings? And so do you advice against FFB clip app and LUT generator?

very simple for me

In wingman profiler all 100%

In game...
GAIN 100%
ABS 20%

everything else 0% / off

No LUT

 

[RasmusP]

very simple for me

In wingman profiler all 100%

In game...
GAIN 100%
ABS 20%

everything else 0% / off

No LUT

So you don't use any minimum force? How do you fight the deadzone?

 

[SirVanhan]

W

very simple for me

In wingman profiler all 100%

In game...
GAIN 100%
ABS 20%

everything else 0% / off

No LUT

Wow thank you for replying! Centering spring at 100 or off?

 

[Jim Liak]

very simple for me

In wingman profiler all 100%

In game...
GAIN 100%
ABS 20%

everything else 0% / off

No LUT

Clipping like no tomorrow

 

[RasmusP]

Clipping like no tomorrow

He explained it often enough now I think

This "clipping" doesn't mean that your FFB will be crap. As far as I understood it's more like a "compression", which totally needed with low end wheel and even with a direct drive a lot of people use it in some way. Without any clipping, in theory, a true spike would rip your hand off, like in real life...

 

[StefanoCasillo]

So you don't use any minimum force? How do you fight the deadzone?

I don't care.. don't need FF when I am going straight

 

[StefanoCasillo]

W

Wow thank you for replying! Centering spring at 100 or off?

it doesnt matter.. AC turns it off anyway

 

[SirVanhan]

it doesnt matter.. AC turns it off anyway

Grazie Stefano. O know what I'll do tonight:test session to compare the settings and see what's best for me.

 

[RasmusP]

I don't care.. don't need FF when I am going straight

Makes sense, and kind of not. I agree that you don't need a strange, shaking wheel while going straight but I really have issues with the turn in then because the force suddenly "kicks in".
Would make sense if there was some kind of dampening, but we all agreed about the fact that AC doesn't use dampening at racing speed, right?

But my LUT doesn't do much anyway, just around 10% min force, a little bit shaped... It's not like I would do wonders here

 

[Stephen O'Sullivan]

@RasmusP I tried your DFGT LUT for a while. The feedback around the centre was excellent, making the long straight and the jumps on Highlands Long quite an adventure. I could feel the tyres grab and drag my DFGT aside if the car landed a jump with the front wheels not straight. But the wheel felt a little heavy for my liking, making it difficult to catch slides because I wasn't reacting quickly enough.

In the end, I returned to using Wheelcheck, LUT Generator for AC 0.15, and FFBClip, a combination that has worked wonders for my old wheel and AC. (Gain 100%, Slip 24%, ABS 24% [if a modern car] and everything else at 0.) However, I'm sure your settings will continue to help AC fans who own DFGTs and G27s.

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP I tried your DFGT LUT for a while. The feedback around the centre was excellent, making the long straight and the jumps on Highlands Long quite an adventure. I could feel the tyres grab and drag my DFGT aside if the car landed a jump with the front wheels not straight. But the wheel felt a little heavy for my liking, making it difficult to catch slides because I wasn't reacting quickly enough.

In the end, I returned to using Wheelcheck, LUT Generator for AC 0.15, and FFBClip, a combination that has worked wonders for my old wheel and AC. (Gain 100%, Slip 24%, ABS 24% [if a modern car] and everything else at 0.) However, I'm sure your settings will continue to help AC fans who own DFGTs and G27s.

Thanks
If you ever feel the need to get the same feeling around the center but a lighter feeling afterwards just say so. I'll gladly write you a custom LUT. It's a good practice for university actually