Little dilema, what would you do...

[racinjoe013]

When I got back into sim racing awhile back, I blew my budget on the computer so I have been using my old T150 with t3pa pedals while I save for a Fanatec. As luck would have it, the T150 is going south in a hurry and I don't have the funds for the Fanatec yet. I can afford a T300RS now to go with my upgraded pedals, but that probably means the Fanatect is out the window for the forseeable future. Or I could find a used T150 or bargain on another T150 to tide me over and just delay the Fanatec purchase since I will eat a little into the Fanatec savings.

What would you do? For someone who loves sim racing and wastes most of my free time on it but doesn't take it ridiculously serious that i'm in online leagues or competitions, is the Fanatec light years better than a T300RS to make it worth going the used T150 route for the time being. Or would I be perfectly happy with the difference in ffb from upgrading to a T300RS over the T150 i've been using and just forget about the Fanatec until the T300 breaks?

Thanks for any opinions...

 

[pipikikinos]

I have done the T3PA LC brake MODE and works excellent

 

[dwightyone]

After about a month with this wheel, I can say without question I should have saved for the Fanatec. In under a month the wheel has a drastic loss in FFB strength and the right paddle shifter doesn't click at all anymore. At least before it made some clicking noise, albeit a weak one. Where it is really noticeable is the wheel no longer takes any strength to turn it at high or low speeds. It's just a dead weightless feeling kind of like a non ffb wheel feels.

Worse yet, Thrustmaster doesn't seem to care when I contacted them. First they told me to test the forces in the Control Panel even though I told them the problem wasn't that the forces didn't work. It was that they are so weak that even my old T150 has stronger force feedback effects. Next they wanted me to record and send them a video of the paddle shifter problem. I guess they wanted to hear it because I don't know what else a video would tell them.

I'm past my return date with Amazon so my only hope is I can find someone at Thrustmaster who is willing to help or i'm going to be left with a $350 broken wheel that barely made it a month. I will say this, for the week or two it worked right, it sure was a nice wheel.

Hey - I know I'm a bit late to the party but before writing it off I'd totally uninstall and reinstall all of the thrustmaster drivers/software and would reinstall the 2018 software from thrustmaster rather than the newest software - 2018 is proven. Also, if you run your ffb high you will kill the wheel - keep it 75% in thrustmaster control panel and in-game run it around 90% or less. Also, sometimes you have to use different thrustmaster software methods to sort the wheel out if it's internally conflicted i.e a sorta software loop. Can't remember how off hand but the info is over thrustmaster site if you dig for it.

The paddle shifter breaking/being mis-aligned is usually down to too much force but it is easy to open up and reseat. However, externally where the paddle shifter sits by the insert into the base for the paddle shifter - the plastic around there also weakens and the sign of that is when you can move/wiggle the paddle shifter up and down. I've fixed stuff like this before but tbh you'd have to open it up and look for yourself as all problems are slightly different but before you do remember to do it slowly and methodically taking note how you take it apart so you can put it back together more easily.

Edit: Also, sometimes jumping between different software can mess the wheel settings up; going from AMS1 to AC does that (maybe the other way around can't remember for sure).

But on the other you could be unlucky and your wheel is just nuked full stop. Good luck!