Maybe its due to the recent patch, I dont know. However, PC2 feels like a lame duck at this point FFB wise (G27), the car physics are just horrendous compared to AC. Currently theres only a few cars that are worth even driving. I actually like(d) the game for what it is, but something has happened to it that just has it feeling horrible.
PC2 Is there any way to make PC2 not feel like a simcade?
- Thread starter Demithio
- Start date
Demethio
The same thing happens to me, I'm going to try to reinstall the game, but I do not know if that is the solution.
I remember when I bought it I loved the physics and FFB with the G27 and with the default setup (raw-100-50-50-50-0.40) it was played very well special in Indycar.
Then I do not know what happened and I went to AC. I hope there is some explanation.
It is not clear to me if it is a problem with the G27 or all the whells have the same problem.
The same thing happens to me, I'm going to try to reinstall the game, but I do not know if that is the solution.
I remember when I bought it I loved the physics and FFB with the G27 and with the default setup (raw-100-50-50-50-0.40) it was played very well special in Indycar.
Then I do not know what happened and I went to AC. I hope there is some explanation.
It is not clear to me if it is a problem with the G27 or all the whells have the same problem.
I just spin around in circles no matter what I do. I think PC2 has cursed me somehow.
Nick Gregory
iRating is just a number
Shovas
Premium
I've been tuning my AccuForce on the Ginettas lately and I'm pretty happy with the results:
https://selah.ca/secrets-of-the-sim...Improved_FFB_with_Jack_Spade_Custom_FFB_Files
Ignore the AccuForce stuff, just use the Jack Spade files + my settings and see if that helps.
To be honest, if I focus on the physics and information coming through the ffb, I don't find it far off from AC/ACC, at all. I think the horrific default FFB settings make people think it's broken. It unfortunately requires people to do a lot of work to get a good ffb experience.
https://selah.ca/secrets-of-the-sim...Improved_FFB_with_Jack_Spade_Custom_FFB_Files
Ignore the AccuForce stuff, just use the Jack Spade files + my settings and see if that helps.
To be honest, if I focus on the physics and information coming through the ffb, I don't find it far off from AC/ACC, at all. I think the horrific default FFB settings make people think it's broken. It unfortunately requires people to do a lot of work to get a good ffb experience.
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I've had decent results with the following settings, but I don't drive the high downforce cars, so can't comment on how well the settings work there:
FFB Wheel: G27
Preset: INFORMATIVE
Gain: 100 (Always)
Volume: 30-35 (Adjust per car and per track as necessary)
Tone: 45-60 (I prefer 60)
FX: 0-10 (I use 10 on road cars)
Gain is set at 100 so that all of the available torque in the FFB motors is used. The G27 hardware is relatively weak, so there is little point in setting this lower than 100.
Volume should be adjusted to keep most of the signal in the first three FFB 'buckets' in the Telemetry HUD overlay. Each bucket from left to right corresponds to 20% of the total signal range (1: 0-20%, 2: 20-40%, 3: 40-60%). Spikes such as kerbs and bumps should land in the remaining three buckets (4: 60-80%, 5: 80-100%, 6: 100+% = clipping) and thus give the FFB room to breathe. Steady state load in corners should not exceed the first three 'buckets' (so 0-60%) if you want a good experience IMHO. If the Volume is set too high and the signal starts clipping, the autoscaler steps in and reduces the volume on the fly. This can lead to an inconsistent response to load, which will make it harder to do precision driving. Hence, Volume should be set low enough that clipping is avoided in most cases.
Video showing FFB bucket histogram:
Look at the lower left portion of the HUD. The solid vertical bars show how many of the FFB samples have landed in each bucket during a time window (think 10-15 seconds). The small horizontal yellow bars moving up and down in each column show the relative amount of samples landing in the corresponding bucket right now (the interesting part starts at 4m23s):
Tone balances between Pneumatic Trail (PT) and Mechanical Trail (MT) in the INFORMATIVE Preset. If you want to learn more about the physics of these concepts, see the links at the bottom of this post.
- At 0 (all the way to the left), PT is at 100% and MT at 0%.
- At 100 (all the way to the right), PT is at 0% and MT at 100%.
- At 50, PT = MT = 50% which can be considered "like the tyre carcass and suspension geometry dictates" or "pure".
- At 45 (slightly to the left of the middle), PT is at 55% and MT is at 45%
- At 60 (slightly to the right of the middle), PT is at 40% and MT is at 60%.
In my experience with the G27, the PT portion of the FFB interferes with the ability to feel the rear of the car and moves the focus to what the front tyre contact patches are doing. The MT portion of the signal is responsible for conveying both side force, self centering and how the wheels want to point in the direction the car is actually moving (useful when in a drift). At Tone 50 and below, subjectively it feels like I'm fighting the tyres instead of the car actually telling me what it wants to do, which is why I personally set the Tone at 55-60.
FX is an effects block that controls how much "noise" or "road feel" from bumps and kerbs etc. is added to the signal chain. The higher you set this, the less breathing room there is left for the steering forces that tell you what the car wants to do, which is why I suggest a setting between 0-10. On the road cars I drive, 10 conveys kerbs, bumps, rumble strips and road surface in a satisfactory manner, but it may be necessary to adjust it down on high downforce cars on a car-by-car basis.
Note that Tone and FX are just a set of labelled dials that can be hooked up to underlying effects blocks. In the INFORMATIVE preset, they are hooked up as described above. In other presets, they may be hooked up to something completely different, so consult the documentation for any custom presets to learn what effects they control there.
References:
Explanation of the difference (and relationship) between Mechanical Trail and Pneumatic Trail:
- http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...PC-PS4-XBox1&p=1247377&viewfull=1#post1247377
- https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/the-project-cars-ffb-guide-thread.105466/#post-2182158 (one of the sources for the above post)
- http://white-smoke.wikifoundry.com/page/Steering+Geometry (general concepts -- also linked to in the first post)
FFB Wheel: G27
Preset: INFORMATIVE
Gain: 100 (Always)
Volume: 30-35 (Adjust per car and per track as necessary)
Tone: 45-60 (I prefer 60)
FX: 0-10 (I use 10 on road cars)
Gain is set at 100 so that all of the available torque in the FFB motors is used. The G27 hardware is relatively weak, so there is little point in setting this lower than 100.
Volume should be adjusted to keep most of the signal in the first three FFB 'buckets' in the Telemetry HUD overlay. Each bucket from left to right corresponds to 20% of the total signal range (1: 0-20%, 2: 20-40%, 3: 40-60%). Spikes such as kerbs and bumps should land in the remaining three buckets (4: 60-80%, 5: 80-100%, 6: 100+% = clipping) and thus give the FFB room to breathe. Steady state load in corners should not exceed the first three 'buckets' (so 0-60%) if you want a good experience IMHO. If the Volume is set too high and the signal starts clipping, the autoscaler steps in and reduces the volume on the fly. This can lead to an inconsistent response to load, which will make it harder to do precision driving. Hence, Volume should be set low enough that clipping is avoided in most cases.
Video showing FFB bucket histogram:
Look at the lower left portion of the HUD. The solid vertical bars show how many of the FFB samples have landed in each bucket during a time window (think 10-15 seconds). The small horizontal yellow bars moving up and down in each column show the relative amount of samples landing in the corresponding bucket right now (the interesting part starts at 4m23s):
Tone balances between Pneumatic Trail (PT) and Mechanical Trail (MT) in the INFORMATIVE Preset. If you want to learn more about the physics of these concepts, see the links at the bottom of this post.
- At 0 (all the way to the left), PT is at 100% and MT at 0%.
- At 100 (all the way to the right), PT is at 0% and MT at 100%.
- At 50, PT = MT = 50% which can be considered "like the tyre carcass and suspension geometry dictates" or "pure".
- At 45 (slightly to the left of the middle), PT is at 55% and MT is at 45%
- At 60 (slightly to the right of the middle), PT is at 40% and MT is at 60%.
In my experience with the G27, the PT portion of the FFB interferes with the ability to feel the rear of the car and moves the focus to what the front tyre contact patches are doing. The MT portion of the signal is responsible for conveying both side force, self centering and how the wheels want to point in the direction the car is actually moving (useful when in a drift). At Tone 50 and below, subjectively it feels like I'm fighting the tyres instead of the car actually telling me what it wants to do, which is why I personally set the Tone at 55-60.
FX is an effects block that controls how much "noise" or "road feel" from bumps and kerbs etc. is added to the signal chain. The higher you set this, the less breathing room there is left for the steering forces that tell you what the car wants to do, which is why I suggest a setting between 0-10. On the road cars I drive, 10 conveys kerbs, bumps, rumble strips and road surface in a satisfactory manner, but it may be necessary to adjust it down on high downforce cars on a car-by-car basis.
Note that Tone and FX are just a set of labelled dials that can be hooked up to underlying effects blocks. In the INFORMATIVE preset, they are hooked up as described above. In other presets, they may be hooked up to something completely different, so consult the documentation for any custom presets to learn what effects they control there.
References:
Explanation of the difference (and relationship) between Mechanical Trail and Pneumatic Trail:
- http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...PC-PS4-XBox1&p=1247377&viewfull=1#post1247377
- https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/the-project-cars-ffb-guide-thread.105466/#post-2182158 (one of the sources for the above post)
- http://white-smoke.wikifoundry.com/page/Steering+Geometry (general concepts -- also linked to in the first post)
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Jack Spade's custom files transformed the game for me. Highly recommended.
If you find you re ffb settings to your like, and it might take a while , you may experience one of the best racesims.
I'm quite lucky in that I enjoy the FFB on my CSW 2.5 wheelbase, however this is all great stuff and thanks for sharing 
It's interesting, I just cannot get on with the handling in Assetto Corsa, the cars just feel terrible to me and I'm in the reverse situation, I get fed up with crashing all the time and I end up going back to PC2 and RF2, lol.
It's interesting, I just cannot get on with the handling in Assetto Corsa, the cars just feel terrible to me and I'm in the reverse situation, I get fed up with crashing all the time and I end up going back to PC2 and RF2, lol.
IMHO pcars2 and rf2 are closer to each other than AC, at least regarding ffb, that's why it's easier to switch between them. Jack spade's ffb brings pcars ffb closer to AC one, maybe that's why lots of people like it, but i personally prefer "raw" default ffb because i mostly play rf2/pcars/r3e
Out of the box, Pcars2 felt like crap to me. Then SMS updated the ffb and that felt awesome but the cars exhibited odd behaviour.
1. Turn in was ridiculously strong
2. Lift off oversteer made the car snap in to the turn (felt like the car was making a v shape on turns. It felt like the momentum of the car slows WAY too fast off throttle.
3. Brakes were way too strong, magnifying what would happen to oversteer.
Happy to report I was able to dial most of that out and now I thoroughly enjoy this sim. Here are a couple things I adjusted:
1. Engine braking - I always crank this to the max.
2. Control configuration - if you are using a wheel, turn down steering from the default 50 to maybe 47-48, turn down brake sensitivity to 35 - 40. I feel like the default settings are more geared to controllers.
3. Turn up the steering ratio. Most ca4s are at about 14....i crank it to 15- 16.5 depending on the car.
4. Differential...Crank coast to 90 and reduce preload.
Now... I am NOT a mechanic or an alien driver. I'm simply sharing settings that made this feel more realistic to me. There is another option in the differential that I change but I will have to check later and post the settings.
Hope this helps. Also, coming from Rfactor 2 where air and road temps are locked, I quickly learned that you can't just run softs all the time and be fast like you can in rf2. Road temp matters.
1. Turn in was ridiculously strong
2. Lift off oversteer made the car snap in to the turn (felt like the car was making a v shape on turns. It felt like the momentum of the car slows WAY too fast off throttle.
3. Brakes were way too strong, magnifying what would happen to oversteer.
Happy to report I was able to dial most of that out and now I thoroughly enjoy this sim. Here are a couple things I adjusted:
1. Engine braking - I always crank this to the max.
2. Control configuration - if you are using a wheel, turn down steering from the default 50 to maybe 47-48, turn down brake sensitivity to 35 - 40. I feel like the default settings are more geared to controllers.
3. Turn up the steering ratio. Most ca4s are at about 14....i crank it to 15- 16.5 depending on the car.
4. Differential...Crank coast to 90 and reduce preload.
Now... I am NOT a mechanic or an alien driver. I'm simply sharing settings that made this feel more realistic to me. There is another option in the differential that I change but I will have to check later and post the settings.
Hope this helps. Also, coming from Rfactor 2 where air and road temps are locked, I quickly learned that you can't just run softs all the time and be fast like you can in rf2. Road temp matters.
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1 - depends on driving style, sometimes i increase it, but sometimes i lower it to make downshifting more effecting at slowing down the car
2 - may agree on the brake, but reducing steering sensivity makes no sense to me in any sim, at least if you're using a wheel
3 - ok
4 - coast to 90 means 0% coast locking, i'd discurage it on most cars
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