HPP PRX Se pedal problem

Kek700

Premium
I have some HPP PRX pedals, I really wanted to see if all the positive reviews are justified about hydraulic pedals.
Unfortunatly mine have a lot of initial stiction, you could say a notch‘y start.
After that they are rather good, but every time I press them I have to go through a notch‘y start.
This is very annoying, it spoils their overall affect.
Has anyone got an answer, I have tried silicon spray, i just put it on the master and slave push shafts to some affect, soon back to that notch’y start.:mad:
Sorted.:)
 
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Solution
Revive an old thread.
Anyone with HPP pedals will eventually find this thread.

Spectra Symbol is the potentiometer company for these pedals. Can order the throttle and clutch sensors from them and solder on your wires.
25mm soft pot linear potentiometer ($12)
wiper/plunger - McMaster website. Ordered a couple sizes to get correct. 8-32 or 8-36 size. Will update when have in hand.

Leo Bodnar replacement usb boards BU0836A (£27)

Motion simulation who bought HPP sells the pressure transducer for the brakes as it’s the same transducer in the new JBV pedals as the PRX. (£120)

If anyone knows of another replacement brake transducer, please post up. I wonder if any 5v 3 wire sensor will work.

I’ve never opened up the brake system...
That's really sad news to hear about HPP

I was about to contact Mark about a minor issue I've noticed with my pedals

I was planning to keep my pedals for a very long time but with this news I might have to think about swapping them out.
 
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I've had my PRX's for about 3 years and love them. I've done pretty much no maintenance beyond vacuuming/blowing off dust and occasional wipe-downs. Well, I finally started having issues with the throttle potentiometer. I'd get a split second cut-out of signal at around 80% travel. I pulled the pedals off the rig, took the throttle apart, cleaned the pot and adjusted the little detent screw that presses on it. That seems to have cleared up the issue for now, but from what I've read the pot will probably die eventually. I ordered 2 so I have one for the clutch if it goes.

I hadn't noticed on the rig, but when I had them on the bench I saw that my brake has a bunch of play before engaging. I'm assuming I need to add oil/bleed it, so I started looking for info. I just wanted to reply to thank the legends who posted all the great info on how that's done.

It sucks that Mark sold the company, and it really sucks that the new owners have no interest in supporting the PRX sets. I guess this is what you risk when you buy things from small boutique manufacturers. I'm thinking about posting a video of myself doing the brake bleed to help people who aren't as mechanically inclined or confident in written instructions. I've never made a video like that before so it'll probably be terrible, but better than what we have now, I guess. If I end up doing it, I'll link it here.
 
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I have got an issue with my PRX's where when the brake is applied its registering 20% throttle input at the same time. I have cleaned the pot on the throttle but at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Has anyone else encountered anything similar?
 
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You could change the location in the electronic box, from throttle to the clutch position.
While you are at it look for any debris on the circuit board or water ingress.
PS
I think you have more than three inputs on this board if I remember correctly
 
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You could change the location in the electronic box, from throttle to the clutch position.
While you are at it look for any debris on the circuit board or water ingress.
PS
I think you have more than three inputs on this board if I remember correctly
Unfortunately, it still does the same thing when trying the other inputs on the board. I could replace the Bodnar board but the fact it’s still doing it on the other inputs makes me think it’s more likely to be the sofpot on the accelerator.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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Your only option is to ge a multimeter and check the potentiometer, then remove the brake from the board, probably best to do that first and check if the throttle now works.
Could be the brake that is causing it.
I am assuming you have not removed the brake and clutch from the bodnar board, then tried the throttle.
Ps
let me know if you find the fault and what it is for future reference.:)
 
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Just to update this I managed to solve the issue with my pedals. On the bottom of the throttle pedal there’s a little stylus like bit of plastic attached to a set screw. I tightened this a quarter turn, and my issue is fixed.


I can only assume when hitting the brake hard it was causing the pedal assembly to flex a tiny bit and was registering an input on the throttle peddle.
 
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Just to update this I managed to solve the issue with my pedals. On the bottom of the throttle pedal there’s a little stylus like bit of plastic attached to a set screw. I tightened this a quarter turn, and my issue is fixed.


I can only assume when hitting the brake hard it was causing the pedal assembly to flex a tiny bit and was registering an input on the throttle peddle.
Glad you got it fixed, I managed to fix mine too with a few simple adjustments. I'm going to try to hold on to my pedals for as long as possible. I still think they are the best looking pedals out there, they scream quality after all these years of owning them
 
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Revive an old thread.
Anyone with HPP pedals will eventually find this thread.

Spectra Symbol is the potentiometer company for these pedals. Can order the throttle and clutch sensors from them and solder on your wires.
25mm soft pot linear potentiometer ($12)
wiper/plunger - McMaster website. Ordered a couple sizes to get correct. 8-32 or 8-36 size. Will update when have in hand.

Leo Bodnar replacement usb boards BU0836A (£27)

Motion simulation who bought HPP sells the pressure transducer for the brakes as it’s the same transducer in the new JBV pedals as the PRX. (£120)

If anyone knows of another replacement brake transducer, please post up. I wonder if any 5v 3 wire sensor will work.

I’ve never opened up the brake system yet. Was fortunate enough to have Mark at HPP rebuild them before he sold.

These HPP PRX pedals are amazing when they are working properly.
 
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Solution
Cannot imagine any one will have experience in both, apart from reviews.
But if for some reason I was going to get some replacement pedals, these would be high on my replacement list.
I would not expect to tell the difference when fitted.
The HPP are a very good set of pedals, I cannot imagine there is anything that is actually better. Different, but not better, until you get into expensive FFB pedals, that are a lot of money.
 
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I thought that might be the case but as he mentioned he pre ordered the p2000 thought I may as well ask.

There's some of these on Facebook for £300 that apparently just needs a replacement seal, it is the old version though the one with the external reservoir, but I ended up getting some meca cup1 for £250 instead, not sure if these are a downgrade or not, it's really hard to tell without direct comparisons.

Do you reckon the original hpp pedals would be better with a cheap seal replacement?

I might just get them and replace the seal and see what I like more.
 
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Seals are easy to buy and replace, mine are perfect, you only use very thin motor oil. Very easy to change resistor pots in the clutch and throttle. Bleeding them is easy.
The only expense is the brake pressure switch.
I like them mainly because they feel so real, I had load cells before. Which were perfectly okay, I just wanted to try hydraulic brake.
Perfectly happy with them, if someone put some load cell pedals on my rig, it would make no difference to my driving at all, but I think I would notice the feel of the brake.
For £300 they are an absolute bargain, I paid £600 for mine and still think they were a bargain.
I will only replace them when something special comes along at a reasonable price. As far as I am concerned they are as good as it gets at present.
 
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Seals are easy to buy and replace, mine are perfect, you only use very thin motor oil. Very easy to change resistor pots in the clutch and throttle. Bleeding them is easy.
The only expense is the brake pressure switch.
I like them mainly because they feel so real, I had load cells before. Which were perfectly okay, I just wanted to try hydraulic brake.
Perfectly happy with them, if someone put some load cell pedals on my rig, it would make no difference to my driving at all, but I think I would notice the feel of the brake.
For £300 they are an absolute bargain, I paid £600 for mine and still think they were a bargain.
I will only replace them when something special comes along at a reasonable price. As far as I am concerned they are as good as it gets at present.
Just wondering what were your last load cell pedals or what have you tried previously to compare against your hpp pedals?

I know from reading here that it's an easy fix and that they feel really nice to use but unsure if they are truly better than some of the new load cell pedals, I know it's a fully subjective experience though.

Also slightly worried if there's other issues with them too.
 
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DFGT resistor pot pedals, first of the Fanatec club sport load cell pedals, Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro ( very good ), then these HPP pedals,
I would happily use the Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro pedals, the DFGT would “not” be a pleasant replacement :roflmao::roflmao:, I would use the Club sport pedals, with reservations.
The only criticism I have of the HPP is that I would like proper quality bearings in each pedal assembly, but that would just be an OCD requirement, I doubt very much if I would notice, plus real race pedals generally do not have them, just a bit OCD on my part.
If you do not want them, send me the link, I would think about buying them as a spare set of pedals.
 
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