Help with CSW settings and oversteer

[itr325]

Hey guys/gals, I’m having a problem with oversteer correction on every car in AC. I’ve got a CSW with v2 pedals. The issue is, every time the car gets loose, there’s almost no catching it or trying to ride out the drift. As soon as I apply any amount of counter steer the car grabs traction and then goes into a sort of tank slapper. Is it the game or the wheel setup? I’ve tried numerous setups and none seem to provide any sort of “real world” feel. I’ve raced many different types of cars/karts and know the feeling of the tires breaking traction, and the same steering corrections I would apply in the real world yield very different results. I’d love for this to be a simple quick fix; it would make AC that much more enjoyable. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

which CSW V2 ? drivers and firmware?
- have you used LUT Generator?

 

[itr325]

CSW V2, just updated to the latest driver/firmware 231. I have not used LUT.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

try this, and make sure you use LUT generator, it completely changes and makes your wheel and FFB come to life! all games should have it this simple! first on your CSW V2 base:
setup a preset like S_1 and set settings to:
FF:100
SHo: 100
AbS: OFF
LIn: OFF
dEA: OFF
drI: OFF
For: 100
SPr: OFF
dPr: OFF

here at this point use LUT Generator (follow it step by step, impossible to get it wrong, and I am a complete ***** when it comes to these things, but did get it right after 2-3 attempts!)
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/lut-generator-for-ac.9740/

then in game:
AC advanced (all values zero, since i do not want anything added, just pure effects) I can always change this if I don't like it:
Kerb Effects: "0"
Road Effects: "0"
Slip Effects: "0"
you can see screenshots in this post:
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/assetto-corsa-fanatec-csw-settings.77516/page-4

 

[itr325]

Awesome!! I'll give it a go hopefully this afternoon. Thx, I will update after.

 

[Brandon Wright]

drI: OFF

I thought dri: 3 was the go-to setting since it neither accelerates nor dampens the wheel spin?

then in game:
AC advanced (all values zero, since i do not want anything added, just pure effects)

Not sure if this is exactly what you meant, but according to Stefano Road and Slip are not canned/added effects, they just amplify the existing output from the physics. Kerb is slightly canned in that it will add vibration to kerbs that are smooth.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

i was happy with drI: OFF, but you can experience between 1-3, I think it is personal preference at the at of the day, but you are right, according to Fanatec, "drI: 003" is neutral, i just turned it off completely.

as for the values ZERO, indeed not canned, but this way nothing is exaggerated, I ran some comparison settings with other players/ sim racers, and found it too much, not realistic, some kerbs/ kurbs are flat and are supposed to be that way and not rip my hands from the steering wheel. I think also here, personal preference.

 

[Tberg]

No tankslapping here, and easy drift/catch on v2. Not using LUT.
What does make a difference is latency, but in general outta the box, AC is good on my v2. It´s the best with vsync off though, which I can´t have after I got a rift cv1.
From there it´s all personal preference.

 

[Tberg]

Okay, I wanna change my thoughts on CSW v2 settings with LUT:

Came directly home from a trackday, fired up AC and tested back and forth. Then got the LUT-generator, which was made from v2 basic settings except SPR off and DPR 040. I like slight damping, as this is more realistic in most cars I´ve tried.
I then testet some more, and these simple settings works perfect for me:
AC
gain 100% (usually run 90%, all cars at 100%. Now everything is just 100/100, it´s great and only clips on kerbs)
Min-force 0% (had this on 2% before)
Kerb 40% (I dunno why some say you can´t feel kerbs in a car, I can and need this value up)
Road 30% (was on 20%, but after this trackday I felt it could use a bump up)
Slip 0%

I´d like to mention that nothing is "added", it´s all telemetry though amplified. It´s still coming from the suspension, according to Aris. After todays trackdriving, and although I use simvibe, Road effects needs to be there, on the wheel, to replicate my experiences. The CSW v2 is good enough to handle these without feeling jerky, and they´re slightly better with LUT.

Anyway, had a blast in CV1 tonite, it´s been a great day with both real track driving and sim.
Drove Ring Knutstorp btw.

Thanks for the LUT app

Best,
Tberg

 

[itr325]

Sorry guys I didn't report back sooner. After using the recommendations with LUT it's 100% better than without. That being said, it's still not 100% to my liking, still difficult to catch snap oversteer(maybe a throttle setting), there's MUCH more resistance on the wheel, almost too much, the road effects need a bit more tuning(not really getting much feedback there), but it's a hell of a lot better than it was. I run Road America primarily and cresting the hill coming into turn 5 and jumping hard on the brakes in almost any car would initiate a spin, now braking is much more stable and while the car will still pitch under braking, it's easy to control. Thanks for all the help and insight, I'll continue to update this as I make changes and adjustments.

 

[Tberg]

Sorry guys I didn't report back sooner. After using the recommendations with LUT it's 100% better than without. That being said, it's still not 100% to my liking, still difficult to catch snap oversteer(maybe a throttle setting), there's MUCH more resistance on the wheel, almost too much, the road effects need a bit more tuning(not really getting much feedback there), but it's a hell of a lot better than it was. I run Road America primarily and cresting the hill coming into turn 5 and jumping hard on the brakes in almost any car would initiate a spin, now braking is much more stable and while the car will still pitch under braking, it's easy to control. Thanks for all the help and insight, I'll continue to update this as I make changes and adjustments.

Good to hear
U on the V1 or V2?

 

[itr325]

I'm on v2.

 

[Brandon Wright]

gain 100% (usually run 90%, all cars at 100%. Now everything is just 100/100, it´s great and only clips on kerbs)

That's interesting. I just reinstalled Win10 this week and started from scratch because my CSW V2 wasn't behaving properly. I think it's good now, but if I ran with those settings it would be incredibly difficult to turn the wheel, definitely couldn't drive like that (and I don't just mean kinda heavy, I mean so heavy you grunt just to turn it a couple degrees). I ended up setting the gain to 50% and then each car has to be dialed back to about 50% just to get it feeling somewhat comfortable, but even that's still a bit heavy.

Does that sound like normal behavior for a CSW V2? My on-wheel settings are the standard, SENS: AUT, FF: 100, DRI: 3, SPR/DPR: 0, FOR: 100.

 

[itr325]

No, it sounds like something is set too high somewhere. Are you using LUT? Using that got me to a very good starting point.

 

[Tberg]

That's interesting. I just reinstalled Win10 this week and started from scratch because my CSW V2 wasn't behaving properly. I think it's good now, but if I ran with those settings it would be incredibly difficult to turn the wheel, definitely couldn't drive like that (and I don't just mean kinda heavy, I mean so heavy you grunt just to turn it a couple degrees). I ended up setting the gain to 50% and then each car has to be dialed back to about 50% just to get it feeling somewhat comfortable, but even that's still a bit heavy.

Does that sound like normal behavior for a CSW V2? My on-wheel settings are the standard, SENS: AUT, FF: 100, DRI: 3, SPR/DPR: 0, FOR: 100.

Definitely sounds off. Before you try LUT, it´s should be nowhere near necessary to turn gain, both menu and car, down to 50% when running FF100 and FOR100. And, you even run DRI 003, which should make it light as my wallet on Christmas day. I have DRI at zero btw.
Is your DOR correct? Check Fanatecs property page, that wheel is set to 900 degrees, 100 damping. Go through AC´s wizard again, even Steam integrity check, then redo wheel setup. Wizard puts my AC DOR about 840-850.
I´m on wheel FW 142, driver 231/64bit, no issues.

 

[Ernie]

After reading this thread i'm quite unsure, if i should use a Wheelcheck generated LUT file or not. However ..... i'll give it a try this weekend, just to check out the differences.

Does someone use the "enable_Gyro=1" setting in assetto_corsa.ini with the CSW v2?

 

[Tberg]

After reading this thread i'm quite unsure, if i should use a Wheelcheck generated LUT file or not. However ..... i'll give it a try this weekend, just to check out the differences.

Does someone use the "enable_Gyro=1" setting in assetto_corsa.ini with the CSW v2?

I´ve driven with gyro=1 lately on the V2, not sure what I like the most. Always had it off until maybe 1-2 months ago, just to give it some time to get used to.
But, after making the LUT 2 days ago and testing all night, I definitely don´t like how some cars react with gyro=1. So I have gyro set to zero/default again, permanently from now on.
The feel I get is an exaggerated weight shift when turning the wheel from side to side, even at low speeds and low rotations. Makes sense, as the LUT ups the minimum forces linarity the V2 manages. It´s just too much for my liking, probably fitting lesser ffb wheels better.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Definitely sounds off. Before you try LUT, it´s should be nowhere near necessary to turn gain, both menu and car, down to 50% when running FF100 and FOR100. And, you even run DRI 003, which should make it light as my wallet on Christmas day. I have DRI at zero btw.
Is your DOR correct? Check Fanatecs property page, that wheel is set to 900 degrees, 100 damping. Go through AC´s wizard again, even Steam integrity check, then redo wheel setup. Wizard puts my AC DOR about 840-850.
I´m on wheel FW 142, driver 231/64bit, no issues.

I actually just did a complete reset of Win10 this week so I'm working from a nearly virgin install (only put about hours in AC so far since the reset). No LUT or Gamma yet, nor gyro effects, it's all totally default besides what I changed in the AC control settings. I alternate around on DRI, I know 003 is the "neutral" setting but it sometimes feels a bit too light for me. I tried OFF but it can be a bit too slow, I think 001 is probably my preferred setting. I went through the wizard, I think my DOR ends up around 895 if I put the wheel at 90º. On the property page I'm at 900º but damping is at 0. Should it be at 100? I always thought/read that 0 was the preferred setting so I just set it at that and forget it. Since I just installed everything the other day I wouldn't think an integrity check should be necessary, but I'll try. I'm on the 142/231-64bit drivers and firmware (freshly downloaded/installed on Tuesday).

My wheel was like this before I did the Win10 reset, it was having other problems like getting incredibly light/numb in the turns to where it felt like the wheel had been unplugged, while being a bit too heavy around center. I've been having this happen with two different brands of wheel (T300 and CSW V2) ever since I got my PC a couple years ago, resetting the OS seems to temporarily fix it which is why I just did it again, and it seems to have made that issue better. But since I got the CSW back in December it's been very heavy like this, R3E is basically unplayable because it's either way too heavy or way too light and just feels really bizarre, rF2 and AMS also feel like they have too much heaviness. I can make AC feel decent, but with FF100 and FOR100 I have to turn the main gain down to 50-60% and the in-car down to 30-50% (depending on the car) or else the wheel is incredibly heavy. So, yeah, I think there's something odd going on here.

 

[Tberg]

I actually just did a complete reset of Win10 this week so I'm working from a nearly virgin install (only put about hours in AC so far since the reset). No LUT or Gamma yet, nor gyro effects, it's all totally default besides what I changed in the AC control settings. I alternate around on DRI, I know 003 is the "neutral" setting but it sometimes feels a bit too light for me. I tried OFF but it can be a bit too slow, I think 001 is probably my preferred setting. I went through the wizard, I think my DOR ends up around 895 if I put the wheel at 90º. On the property page I'm at 900º but damping is at 0. Should it be at 100? I always thought/read that 0 was the preferred setting so I just set it at that and forget it. Since I just installed everything the other day I wouldn't think an integrity check should be necessary, but I'll try. I'm on the 142/231-64bit drivers and firmware (freshly downloaded/installed on Tuesday).

My wheel was like this before I did the Win10 reset, it was having other problems like getting incredibly light/numb in the turns to where it felt like the wheel had been unplugged, while being a bit too heavy around center. I've been having this happen with two different brands of wheel (T300 and CSW V2) ever since I got my PC a couple years ago, resetting the OS seems to temporarily fix it which is why I just did it again, and it seems to have made that issue better. But since I got the CSW back in December it's been very heavy like this, R3E is basically unplayable because it's either way too heavy or way too light and just feels really bizarre, rF2 and AMS also feel like they have too much heaviness. I can make AC feel decent, but with FF100 and FOR100 I have to turn the main gain down to 50-60% and the in-car down to 30-50% (depending on the car) or else the wheel is incredibly heavy. So, yeah, I think there's something odd going on here.

That is too bad
I don´t know what could be the solution, but maybe try different USB ports, even check USB drivers although W10 should handle all this.
Regarding damping, yes it´s been told to keep at 0 for a long time...for G25/G27 users and similar wheels in strength. Try property page damping on 100, then DPR at 30 or 40. AC filter should be 0.
Of cause, it´ll be different when using DRI 001 or higher. But, the damping adds some realistic steeringrack feel, just don´t go too high with it if you like easy drifting.
I mostly race or hotlap, whether it being race- or roadcars, so I want the feel rather than fast lock-to-lock turning. I can still drift fine with my settings though I´m using DRI 000.

 

[Brandon Wright]

That is too bad
I don´t know what could be the solution, but maybe try different USB ports, even check USB drivers although W10 should handle all this.
Regarding damping, yes it´s been told to keep at 0 for a long time...for G25/G27 users and similar wheels in strength. Try property page damping on 100, then DPR at 30 or 40. AC filter should be 0.
Of cause, it´ll be different when using DRI 001 or higher. But, the damping adds some realistic steeringrack feel, just don´t go too high with it if you like easy drifting.
I mostly race or hotlap, whether it being race- or roadcars, so I want the feel rather than fast lock-to-lock turning. I can still drift fine with my settings though I´m using DRI 000.

I've tried all the USB ports in the back of the machine, doesn't seem to be much difference. Do you know if the CSW prefers USB 2.0 or 3.0? I forget which mine is plugged into but I thought these things prefer 2.0. I think I'm going to contact Fanatec to see if they might know what's happening, I've always thought it felt way too heavy at default settings and your comments suggest that it is indeed too heavy. And for the record I've always had a kinda heavy wheel, back in my Gran Turismo days I usually ran it at or near the heaviest setting and I just got used to it (because back then I didn't know about clipping). So me saying it's too heavy means it's pretty dang heavy.

Thanks for your input, let me know if you think of anything else to try. (Feel free to PM me so we don't clutter the thread.)