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FFB Settings Fanatec CSW 2.5

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by SoulMaTriX3, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. SoulMaTriX3

    SoulMaTriX3

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    All,
    I have been scouring the internet trying to figure out what is considered a real setting for Fanatec CSW 2.5 for AC and ACC. I have never raced in real world, so I am unsure of how things should feel. My normal settings feel very close to my MX-5 Miata. However, from the looks of things, every setting I am coming across they seem to run very low feedback settings on the CSW and in games (namely AC and ACC). I tried one of the settings and I feel as though the setting is arcade-ish and float-y.

    What is the reason behind lower FFB? The setting did not help improve lap times, so fundamentally my racing mechanics have to change as well as well adjustments to FOV.

    Thanks for the input, if any.
     
  2. RasmusP

    RasmusP
    Premium

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    Post all your settings please that feel like your real life car. I'll go over then and give you my opinion on each :)
    The basics are:
    Low in game, high base settings = high dynamic of forces
    High in game, low base settings = low dynamic of forces.
    Both resulting in the same average cornering force though.

    So that's the regulation of the dynamic. Like almost no ffb on straights but sausage kerbs breaking your wrists vs always almost the same strength and just a little notch here and there over sausage kerbs.

    The other factors are basic-resistance (drift setting and in game dampening) and roughness (in game smoothing/filtering and the FEI setting of the csw).

    More dampening = thicker feeling, more real on straights and slow turning speeds but unrealistically high resistance when correcting very fast. It's a compromise and a limitation of electric motors (ffb wheel) vs real car physics.

    The roughness depends on the car and tyres. Rougher = more details but at some point you can't feel the "rubber" beneath you anymore vs lot of smoothing and only feeling the basic rubber physics without details.

    Posting all settings is annoying on the phone so please post yours and I'll comment them :)
     
  3. SoulMaTriX3

    SoulMaTriX3

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    Ratings:
    +1
    This setting is what I tried which feels float-y/arcade-ish:
    ACC In-game:
    gain - 70%
    min force - 0%
    dynamic damp - 100%
    road effects - 20%

    v2.5 wheel base:
    Sen - 900
    FFB - 100
    Shock - 100
    Abs - 90 (Just go easy on the brakes, the ABS WILL let you know you've activated it... Slowly come to a stop even after you're done with a session.)
    Drift - Off
    Force - 60
    Spring - 50
    Damper - 50
    Brakeforce - (your own preference if you have v3 pedals or loadcell, I personally use 30)
    F.EFF.INT - 20 (this is the most important one since the in game gain is set to 70% and your FFB is at 100, you only want this at 20, nothing more or less.)

    My normal setting (roughly, not home to check):
    In-game:
    gain - 80%
    min force - 10%
    dynamic damp - 100%
    road effects - 50%

    v2.5 wheel base:
    Sen - 900
    FFB - 100
    Shock - 100
    Abs - 100
    Drift - Off
    Force - 100
    Spring - 100
    Damper - 100
    Brakeforce - 100
    F.EFF.INT - 100
     
  4. RasmusP

    RasmusP
    Premium

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    These do look okay, although I don't really like the road effects higher than a few percent. They just add some noise into the ffb that seems like a generic noise, based on the surface category you're on. I prefer it as low as possible while still noticing when changing from one tarmac patch to the next with a slightly different roughness.
    Gain at 70% is fine, ACC is pretty "clippy" at default so turning it down raises the dynamic, which I like with the CSW.
    Dynamic damp is a cool thing. It helps getting closer to the real thing with a "beefier", "tighter" wheel on straights but as soon as you're becoming slower, the dampening will go away.

    Wow, yeah.. god awful, lol!
    ABS: well it's just a vibration in your rim/v3 pedal at x-amount of brake input. I think 90% is okay, since you then get a vibration when close to 100% and lose the vibration when you went 10% down from the maximum.

    Drift: off is just squishy. It's less resistance than a real car and you just can't drive cleanly due to NO basic resistance against turning.
    I use -1 to -3.

    Now it becomes awful:
    force, spring, damper should ALWAYS be at 100! If a game uses these direct inputs, you will 99,9% surely have a ingame setting to adjust it. Example: dynamic dampening, in AC and ACC hidden in the .ini files a "standing still damper" setting. In the Dirt games you have the "weight", which is part of the FFB!

    force however is the direct input ffb, which is.. well it's the ffb. So lowering this is just the same as the ingame ffb.

    Therefore, THESE TO 100 ALL THE TIME!

    Brakeforce: yeah with a LC brake pedal, it's down to your own liking.

    F.EFF.INT (FEI): I like it between 70-100 depending on the sim and the track. In ACC I mostly use 90 since 100 is pretty rough and feels too rough compared to AC, R3E, rF2 etc.

    gain: it's okay, I personally use 65% to give more dynamic. At 80% you have a very saturated ffb without much headroom for little bumps during strong turns. Eau Rouge for example.

    min Force: I'm not sure why you like this. 0-4%, I'm okay with. Some rattling on the straights, filling the "emptiness" etc. But at 10% I'm pretty sure you'll have a notch when passing the center position. Like a harsh border you hit, when doing a smooth chicane for example.
    I would lower it to 4% and see if you can get happy with that.
    It's to remove deadzones of wheels like the Logitech G27. Our CSW has no deadzone at all.

    road effects: as I wrote above, I'd recommend staying below 10% to be able to distinguish between small bumps/grip details and the generic road noise.

    Yep, that looks nice.
    Although as I said, I'd recommend Drift at -1 to -3 to give some basic resistance you can "lean against" while turning in for example.
    Without the resistance of the negative drift setting you might turn in too quickly into corners where you'd need to turn in slowly and carefully.
    Your arms/hands simply have no resistance to turn against and therefore you don't "turn against something" but instead you "turn the wheel without resistance".
    This means your body has to do a controlled movement in two ways. Turning the wheel and also slow down the turning if needed.
    When you have drift mode at -1, your body will only have to do the turning. If your muscles stop to turn, the wheel will come to a halt automatically instead of your muscles having to slow down the wheel.

    But if you set drift to -5 for example, the resistance will becomes too strong for fast chicanes where you do a lot of quick left/right.

    So here are my exact settings:

    In-game:

    gain - 65%
    min force - 3%
    dynamic damp - 100%
    road effects - 5%

    v2.5 wheel base:
    Sen - 900
    FFB - 70 to 90 depending on track,car,dry or rain
    Shock - mclaren rim, no schock
    Abs - csl elite pedals without LC, no vibration
    Drift - -1 to -3
    Force - 100
    Spring - 100
    Damper - 100
    Brakeforce - off, no LC pedal
    F.EFF.INT - 90
     
  5. SoulMaTriX3

    SoulMaTriX3

    Messages:
    22
    Ratings:
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    Thank you! Let me give things a try.

    Thank you for the explanation as well to help clarify any muddiness. :)
     
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