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FFB Settings Fanatec CSW 2.5

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All,
I have been scouring the internet trying to figure out what is considered a real setting for Fanatec CSW 2.5 for AC and ACC. I have never raced in real world, so I am unsure of how things should feel. My normal settings feel very close to my MX-5 Miata. However, from the looks of things, every setting I am coming across they seem to run very low feedback settings on the CSW and in games (namely AC and ACC). I tried one of the settings and I feel as though the setting is arcade-ish and float-y.

What is the reason behind lower FFB? The setting did not help improve lap times, so fundamentally my racing mechanics have to change as well as well adjustments to FOV.

Thanks for the input, if any.
 

RasmusP

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All,
I have been scouring the internet trying to figure out what is considered a real setting for Fanatec CSW 2.5 for AC and ACC. I have never raced in real world, so I am unsure of how things should feel. My normal settings feel very close to my MX-5 Miata. However, from the looks of things, every setting I am coming across they seem to run very low feedback settings on the CSW and in games (namely AC and ACC). I tried one of the settings and I feel as though the setting is arcade-ish and float-y.

What is the reason behind lower FFB? The setting did not help improve lap times, so fundamentally my racing mechanics have to change as well as well adjustments to FOV.

Thanks for the input, if any.
Post all your settings please that feel like your real life car. I'll go over then and give you my opinion on each :)
The basics are:
Low in game, high base settings = high dynamic of forces
High in game, low base settings = low dynamic of forces.
Both resulting in the same average cornering force though.

So that's the regulation of the dynamic. Like almost no ffb on straights but sausage kerbs breaking your wrists vs always almost the same strength and just a little notch here and there over sausage kerbs.

The other factors are basic-resistance (drift setting and in game dampening) and roughness (in game smoothing/filtering and the FEI setting of the csw).

More dampening = thicker feeling, more real on straights and slow turning speeds but unrealistically high resistance when correcting very fast. It's a compromise and a limitation of electric motors (ffb wheel) vs real car physics.

The roughness depends on the car and tyres. Rougher = more details but at some point you can't feel the "rubber" beneath you anymore vs lot of smoothing and only feeling the basic rubber physics without details.

Posting all settings is annoying on the phone so please post yours and I'll comment them :)
 
Messages
72
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21
This setting is what I tried which feels float-y/arcade-ish:
ACC In-game:
gain - 70%
min force - 0%
dynamic damp - 100%
road effects - 20%

v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 100
Shock - 100
Abs - 90 (Just go easy on the brakes, the ABS WILL let you know you've activated it... Slowly come to a stop even after you're done with a session.)
Drift - Off
Force - 60
Spring - 50
Damper - 50
Brakeforce - (your own preference if you have v3 pedals or loadcell, I personally use 30)
F.EFF.INT - 20 (this is the most important one since the in game gain is set to 70% and your FFB is at 100, you only want this at 20, nothing more or less.)

My normal setting (roughly, not home to check):
In-game:
gain - 80%
min force - 10%
dynamic damp - 100%
road effects - 50%

v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 100
Shock - 100
Abs - 100
Drift - Off
Force - 100
Spring - 100
Damper - 100
Brakeforce - 100
F.EFF.INT - 100
 

RasmusP

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ACC In-game:
gain - 70%
min force - 0%
dynamic damp - 100%
road effects - 20%
These do look okay, although I don't really like the road effects higher than a few percent. They just add some noise into the ffb that seems like a generic noise, based on the surface category you're on. I prefer it as low as possible while still noticing when changing from one tarmac patch to the next with a slightly different roughness.
Gain at 70% is fine, ACC is pretty "clippy" at default so turning it down raises the dynamic, which I like with the CSW.
Dynamic damp is a cool thing. It helps getting closer to the real thing with a "beefier", "tighter" wheel on straights but as soon as you're becoming slower, the dampening will go away.

v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 100
Shock - 100
Abs - 90 (Just go easy on the brakes, the ABS WILL let you know you've activated it... Slowly come to a stop even after you're done with a session.)
Drift - Off
Force - 60
Spring - 50
Damper - 50
Brakeforce - (your own preference if you have v3 pedals or loadcell, I personally use 30)
F.EFF.INT - 20 (this is the most important one since the in game gain is set to 70% and your FFB is at 100, you only want this at 20, nothing more or less.)
Wow, yeah.. god awful, lol!
ABS: well it's just a vibration in your rim/v3 pedal at x-amount of brake input. I think 90% is okay, since you then get a vibration when close to 100% and lose the vibration when you went 10% down from the maximum.

Drift: off is just squishy. It's less resistance than a real car and you just can't drive cleanly due to NO basic resistance against turning.
I use -1 to -3.

Now it becomes awful:
force, spring, damper should ALWAYS be at 100! If a game uses these direct inputs, you will 99,9% surely have a ingame setting to adjust it. Example: dynamic dampening, in AC and ACC hidden in the .ini files a "standing still damper" setting. In the Dirt games you have the "weight", which is part of the FFB!

force however is the direct input ffb, which is.. well it's the ffb. So lowering this is just the same as the ingame ffb.

Therefore, THESE TO 100 ALL THE TIME!

Brakeforce: yeah with a LC brake pedal, it's down to your own liking.

F.EFF.INT (FEI): I like it between 70-100 depending on the sim and the track. In ACC I mostly use 90 since 100 is pretty rough and feels too rough compared to AC, R3E, rF2 etc.

My normal setting (roughly, not home to check):
In-game:
gain - 80%
min force - 10%
dynamic damp - 100%
road effects - 50%
gain: it's okay, I personally use 65% to give more dynamic. At 80% you have a very saturated ffb without much headroom for little bumps during strong turns. Eau Rouge for example.

min Force: I'm not sure why you like this. 0-4%, I'm okay with. Some rattling on the straights, filling the "emptiness" etc. But at 10% I'm pretty sure you'll have a notch when passing the center position. Like a harsh border you hit, when doing a smooth chicane for example.
I would lower it to 4% and see if you can get happy with that.
It's to remove deadzones of wheels like the Logitech G27. Our CSW has no deadzone at all.

road effects: as I wrote above, I'd recommend staying below 10% to be able to distinguish between small bumps/grip details and the generic road noise.

v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 100
Shock - 100
Abs - 100
Drift - Off
Force - 100
Spring - 100
Damper - 100
Brakeforce - 100
F.EFF.INT - 100
Yep, that looks nice.
Although as I said, I'd recommend Drift at -1 to -3 to give some basic resistance you can "lean against" while turning in for example.
Without the resistance of the negative drift setting you might turn in too quickly into corners where you'd need to turn in slowly and carefully.
Your arms/hands simply have no resistance to turn against and therefore you don't "turn against something" but instead you "turn the wheel without resistance".
This means your body has to do a controlled movement in two ways. Turning the wheel and also slow down the turning if needed.
When you have drift mode at -1, your body will only have to do the turning. If your muscles stop to turn, the wheel will come to a halt automatically instead of your muscles having to slow down the wheel.

But if you set drift to -5 for example, the resistance will becomes too strong for fast chicanes where you do a lot of quick left/right.

So here are my exact settings:

In-game:

gain - 65%
min force - 3%
dynamic damp - 100%
road effects - 5%

v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 70 to 90 depending on track,car,dry or rain
Shock - mclaren rim, no schock
Abs - csl elite pedals without LC, no vibration
Drift - -1 to -3
Force - 100
Spring - 100
Damper - 100
Brakeforce - off, no LC pedal
F.EFF.INT - 90
 
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So just to clarify, as you have mentioned dynamic dampening, are these settings for ACC? I've been messing around with the gyro settings in content manager for AC, anyone have any good recommendations for those settings? Also is it worth trying to use LUT files for a csw 2.5? I personally like a bumpy road in a straight line so turned down the min force in the settings as one of the kunos Devs said that putting that to 0 actually enhanced the road details in a straight line... bizarrely.
 

RasmusP

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So just to clarify, as you have mentioned dynamic dampening, are these settings for ACC? I've been messing around with the gyro settings in content manager for AC, anyone have any good recommendations for those settings? Also is it worth trying to use LUT files for a csw 2.5? I personally like a bumpy road in a straight line so turned down the min force in the settings as one of the kunos Devs said that putting that to 0 actually enhanced the road details in a straight line... bizarrely.
Yes, dynamic damping = acc.

Only at the phone currently...

You're correct though that the "gyro" in AC is supposed to be something similar.

Lut files: no, not with the csw! Imo lut files are only for Logitech wheels (and maybe some entry level thrust master wheels, which I sadly never got my hands on).

I would recommend to install csp and use the new ffb stuff with a better gyro implementation.
Feels awesome imo in my csw 2.5 :)

In theory a bumpy road should become stronger with the road details or road slider in AC/ACC. It's an amplifier for vertical forces.

Minimum force can amplify these further but they will also amplify all forces so instead of "road details", you'll get "road rumble".
I personally use a min force of 0.5%, which just slightly fills the too "quiet" hole at the center.

I can post the full settings later today :)
 
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Yes, dynamic damping = acc.

Only at the phone currently...

You're correct though that the "gyro" in AC is supposed to be something similar.

Lut files: no, not with the csw! Imo lut files are only for Logitech wheels (and maybe some entry level thrust master wheels, which I sadly never got my hands on).

I would recommend to install csp and use the new ffb stuff with a better gyro implementation.
Feels awesome imo in my csw 2.5 :)

In theory a bumpy road should become stronger with the road details or road slider in AC/ACC. It's an amplifier for vertical forces.

Minimum force can amplify these further but they will also amplify all forces so instead of "road details", you'll get "road rumble".
I personally use a min force of 0.5%, which just slightly fills the too "quiet" hole at the center.

I can post the full settings later today :)
Thank you very much, I appreciate that mate. I've only just got back into AC as of yesterday and had a blast with the BTCC cars made by Patrick (I think that's his name), the ones with the BMW, Volvo and Nissan. It was awesome, I just feel that I can get a little bit more out of the wheel. Looking forward to seeing what your settings are!
 

RasmusP

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Thank you very much, I appreciate that mate. I've only just got back into AC as of yesterday and had a blast with the BTCC cars made by Patrick (I think that's his name), the ones with the BMW, Volvo and Nissan. It was awesome, I just feel that I can get a little bit more out of the wheel. Looking forward to seeing what your settings are!


RasP_AC_CSW_axis.jpg


RasP_AC_CSW_ffb.jpg


RasP_AC_CSW_CSP.jpg



v2.5 wheel base:
Sen - 900
FFB - 70 to 100 - depending on track and car combination and my mood
Shock - 100 - Porsche rim, nice ABS feedback at 98+% brake input
Abs - 98 - to give me feedback when I'm close to full brake input
Drift - -1 to -3 - depends on the car. Mostly -1 for GT3, -3 for roadcars
Force - 100 - these 3 should stay untouched!
Spring - 100 - these 3 should stay untouched!
Damper - 100 - these 3 should stay untouched!
Brakeforce 40 - V3 pedals in an office chair. Pretty light max pressure but stiff with brake performance kit
F.EFF.INT - 100 - AC isn't that rough, so I like full on details (beware from other guides: DD1/2 and CSL base have a different default value here! Default for CSW 2.5 is 100!!)
 
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RasmusP

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Ok thanks for that, i'll try that out now and see whats up. So you dont mess around too much with the Experimental section found in AC/Controls/Force Feedback (bottom right)?
Ah crap it took the wrong second screen shot!!
*edited it in my upper post too

I like the damper to be reduced a bit. It's only the standing still "rubber effect" but it was a bit too strong for my taste.
Reducing the DPR setting in the Fanatec menu would do the same but then I'd have reduced "wheel friction" and "tyre friction" in Dirt Rally too (these 2 use the damper channel from the direct input ffb).

And I also like the "min damper 1%" to give a tiny bit more friction.
It's like setting DRI in the Fanatec menu to additional -0.3, which isn't possible as you know :p
RasP_AC_CSW_ffb.jpg
 
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Thanks for that, I'm not sure what's happening, whether it's the belts slipping or the wheel overheating but I'm gutting a massive dead zone in the centre of the wheel where I can tip it left and right and then the more I push it'll suddenly then "bite". Not sure if it's all the central boosters in the FFB menu doing it, I've just come out of AC and run in AMS for a bit and can't seem to replicate it. I didn't have this last night, however I will say that I've got the FFB running much higher in AC than AMS, so maybe a heating issue? Quite odd!
 

RasmusP

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Definitely odd!
The center boost gain should be 0% so there is no center boost on at all.
The rest of the settings shouldn't cause something like that either.

The only thing I can think of would be that you have some LUT loaded?
Content manager has a bug that loads an old lut.

Is "enable ffb post processing" unchecked?
Do you have a dead zone set in your axis settings?

If ams doesn't have this, then it's your AC settings.
 
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Just found this. This describes it better than me!

 
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What im going to do now is just delete everthing - CM/CSP/Sol/AC (minus the content of course) - and see if that fixes it! But yes, there is a sizeable deadzone in the wheel, i wonder if the belts have been stretched or something?
 
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