FFB Fanatic 2.5.

Calvyn White

Calv Killmore
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I'm looking to join tonight's event at Imola with the gt3s. Never really played rfactor 2 before and now I've got a new fanatic wheelbase 2.5 and the McLaren GT3 wheel. I'm having problems with the force feedback. I suppose the only way I can really describe the effect getting is a bit spongy. But I am getting a lot of feedback from the kerbs in fact a little too much from the kerbs but everything else seems spongy. Getting very little feedback from the loss of grip front and rear. No wheel force increasing when turning. etc.

So can I ask if there's anybody using the 2.5. The wheel shouldn't matter too much that can give me a bit of a head start on the Force Feedback. As I have very little idea what these settings should be in game or on wheel.
I can only imagine how long it would take me and at this present time I have not got the time to sit for a few hours to figure it all out for myself which I would normally do and enjoy doing so but unfortunately not this time.:(

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions, hints and tips.:):thumbsup:
 
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Stephen Gibb

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@Calvyn White check out the following thread in particular post #5 I haven't had the time yet to go through these settings yet (hopefully before tonight's race) by Rasmus but the LUT he made for AC and tips for g27 were brilliant so I would recommend these as good place to start.
 

Calvyn White

Calv Killmore
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Thank you very much @Stephen Gibb for pointing me in the right direction to just what I'm looking for.
And thank you very much @RasmusP for posting the relevant information that I require.
Thanks guys.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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RasmusP

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Thought I'd copy my settings in here for people dropping by, wanting quick access to "at least okay base settings) :)

My GT3 car example settings for better overview:


Wheel base:
- SEN: aut
- FF: 100
- Sho: whatever you like
- ABS: whatever you like
- Dri: -1
- For: 100
- Spr: 100 (spring is not always on! It's an effect used by the games so don't believe in the myth!)
- Dpr: 100 (it's only used for the standing still car in most sims. I like it at 100!)
- FEI: 90-70 (depending on how flatspotted my tyres are)

Game:
- per car multiplier:
0.4-0.45 (depending on which GT3 car. I guess 0.6-0.7 should be good for your CSL!)
- FFB smoothing: 4
- FFB minimum torque: 0.5-1.5 depending on how much straight line noise you like

Controller.json located at:
\\Steam\steamapps\common\rFactor 2\UserData\player\

- "Jolt magnitude": 0.1,
- "Off-road multiplier": 0.1,
- "Rumble strip magnitude": 0.0, (changed it back to 0!)
- "Steering torque extrap blend": 0.1,


Hey Calv,
How were the settings for the event? I hope you stopped reading when I started to write about the max torque capability entry in the json :p
Only the things until that point are important. Later in that thread we would find out that the setting should actually not really be altered and just be left alone at the default of 2.5 hehe.

Anyway, I hope you had some fun :)
The ffb in general is indeed spongy compared to raceroom. After some more time with rF2 you'll start to be able to adapt and will start to feel that it's spongy, yes, but because you feel the tyres themselves a lot more directly in some way.
And then you'll start to love it as it feels like looking behind a curtain.
I needed about 15 hours with the gt3 cars and endurance pack to get to this point!
 
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Calvyn White

Calv Killmore
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As I mentioned in my opening post I was pressed for time in getting the force feedback in some way resolved. And unfortunately this proved to be correct as I was unable to make it home in time in fact I only managed to catch the last 10 minutes of the live stream. Thank you @Joseph Wright for that and which incidentally the sound balance was much better, well for me anyway. Those Windows updates sure can mess things up. Cheers mate.:thumbsup:

Yes actually I did stop reading when I got to the Json file. I thought it best if I tried out your suggested settings first before going into altering files and whatnot.
Now the funny thing is I was testing out the Corvette at Imola and I did not like the feedback I was getting. Whilst chatting to my good friend, just like the good old days@Craig Dunkley. He was using the BMW so I thought I would change to the BMW. I was amazed by the instant 90% improvement in the force feedback, odd extremely odd. I have absolutely no idea why or why a car change would affect the force feedback so drastically for the better I may add. You're probably just as confused by what I'm saying that I was in what happened. In fact I have to back it off a little and it was virtually set to my liking. It was like when I change the car it turned on your suggested settings just like that.
But I do feel it could be better andover time with a few tweaks here and there I'm sure I will get used to the tire flexing and other factors that raceroom doesn't have or has. Considering virtually everything about my system is new, rig, wheelbase, wheel and SIM.
Yesterday when I tried to set things up I could not help but say to myself, is can't be right I'm not liking this much at all.
But now due to your input and help it's a whole new SIM to me. And I'm enjoying it thanks to you and Stephen pointing me in the right direction.:thumbsup:
Once again thanks a lot. You've made an old man happy which I haven't been as of late. :whistling:
And that post of yours @RasmusP should be a sticky.
 
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RasmusP

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Sounds great! And yeah all the cars have such a different ffb! I love the ffb of the lmp2 btw. You should try it at some point! :)

And there really aren't many tweaks that would enhance things further. In that mentioned json file you can only turn down the standing still ffb, kerb rumble (not sure if that actually does something though), collision/jolt strength.

But these settings won't modify your ffb while driving normally. It is what it is and I know you'll gonna love it after some time! It's important to pick a car that suits you though, like you already experienced :)

If you have any questions about the rim or the fanatec settings just shout. Gave them a good testing as I'm interested in this stuff. Knowing pretty well what does what and how to achieve things you want :)
 
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davehenrie

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I recently got spammed by a ton of Fanatec adds in my browser, but I have to say, after watching a video, that new wheel is an incredible achievement. It would take me all summer to assign all the switches & knobs and then another year to learn/memorize where I put everything.
 

RasmusP

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I recently got spammed by a ton of Fanatec adds in my browser, but I have to say, after watching a video, that new wheel is an incredible achievement. It would take me all summer to assign all the switches & knobs and then another year to learn/memorize where I put everything.
The mclaren wheel?
I have to say it is really really easy to memorize everything!
Did a drawing and a list of all functions for each sim and then tried to get them all as similar as possible.
The buttons are nicely positioned and differently in their feel. Very easy! :)
 
Jun 19, 2009
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I'm late to this thread as I've only had my CSW v2.5 for 2 weeks now, but these settings helped a ton getting me headed in the right direction. I've match the settings post by RasmusP but made the following adjustments as to my liking

spr and dpr both=0
fei=60

per car multiplier=1.0
ffb min torque=0
 
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RasmusP

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I'm late to this thread as I've only had my CSW v2.5 for 2 weeks now, but these settings helped a ton getting me headed in the right direction. I've match the settings post by RasmusP but made the following adjustments as to my liking

spr and dpr both=0
fei=60

per car multiplier=1.0
ffb min torque=0
Which car are you driving with per car multiplier at 1.0? Looking into telemetry (DAMplugin + Motec i2 pro), the official gt3 and gte cars are already clipping during normal cornering when set above 0.60.

Spr and dpr: why to 0? Spr is inactive anyway, dpr is only used for when standing still (not even sure for rF2. Might be inactive completely).

FEI at 60 seems pretty rubbery/spongy but there's no argument to change it if you like it. I'd say going a bit higher with the ingame smoothing could give better results though. Worth a try :)

Min force: with a higher per car multiplier you don't need it. When dialing in the multiplier to less clipping, the straight line forces will be scaled down. Hence the slight min force to compensate it
 

Case_

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Looking into telemetry (DAMplugin + Motec i2 pro), the official gt3 and gte cars are already clipping during normal cornering when set above 0.60.
Yep. I generally set the official cars to around 0.7-0.8 multiplier depending on the track to get rid of most clipping and only get clipping on strong bumps or during high speed corners. For example, with the BMW GTE during the SRC Le Mans event, I was at 0.7 I believe and still was getting some clipping while trail braking into some of the corners.
 
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Jun 19, 2009
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Which car are you driving with per car multiplier at 1.0? Looking into telemetry (DAMplugin + Motec i2 pro), the official gt3 and gte cars are already clipping during normal cornering when set above 0.60.

Spr and dpr: why to 0? Spr is inactive anyway, dpr is only used for when standing still (not even sure for rF2. Might be inactive completely).

FEI at 60 seems pretty rubbery/spongy but there's no argument to change it if you like it. I'd say going a bit higher with the ingame smoothing could give better results though. Worth a try :)

Min force: with a higher per car multiplier you don't need it. When dialing in the multiplier to less clipping, the straight line forces will be scaled down. Hence the slight min force to compensate it
I tested the 911, AMG and 650S. I did raise FEI to 90 this morning. The reason I didn't like a low multiplier was simply wheel weight, the wheel felt numb to me and I was having a hard time catching spins and attacking corners and to be honest I'm slow as a snail already :)

I tested everything from 0.4 in .05 increments all the way up to 1.0 and while I know it might increase the chance for clipping, I just liked the way I could feel the car and what it was doing when set to 1.0.

As far as spr and dpr set to 0 , I've always set these to 0 and if dampening is needed do so in game like in ACC. I know with my TS-PC Racer spring and damper set to 100 could result in a heavier wheel but would often interfere with other effects, so I just got use to not using them.
 

Case_

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I know with my TS-PC Racer spring and damper set to 100 could result in a heavier wheel but would often interfere with other effects
It won't result in a heavier wheel and it won't interfere with other effects. As far as I know, rF2 doesn't use spring and damper (most games don't, some use damper in some minor way), so no matter how you set them in your wheel's control panel, it will have no effect (except for placebo).
 
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