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thankyou sir :)
its a weird one as sometimes the 4 displays work perfect then 10 seconds later either 1 or 2 of them stop displaying or there is an odd segment omitted,could it be a dodgy mini usb cable?

im going to try a mini usb to c type cable an see how that goes,and is there a limit to the length I should use?

im using clone nano's btw and all 3 do the same thing.

many thanks
Actually the new protocol (6.6.0 beta versions) ensure data comes with no corruptions to the arduino, so I would not think about the usb cable, but more about issues with soldering (weak solder, shorts ...) I have myself one little display with two max 7segments + 8 leds running 24/24 on my computer and I've absolutely never seen any errors even if I drive it at 1Mbauds which is really a stressful situation . On another hand I usually see it when doing temporary wirings for testing purpose (dupont cables and such wirings)
 
ok thanks,well im trying to drive 4 of the 7 segment displays,is that too much?

yes I double checked all joints are good,one would suspect if a joint was bad the rest would not work as its usually one of the middle ones that stops working and as they are daisy chained the rest should stop.
 
Sounds interesting can I pm you later?
Maybe I can move this info to someone I know and maybe can help...
Yeah no problems, as a starting point I can give my BA63 plugin code, it uses HID and feeds itself through the arduino display settings (screen settings), pretty much all the starter pack required for the Renovatio compatibility
upload_2018-11-11_14-53-1.png
 
ok thanks,well im trying to drive 4 of the 7 segment displays,is that too much?

yes I double checked all joints are good,one would suspect if a joint was bad the rest would not work as its usually one of the middle ones that stops working and as they are daisy chained the rest should stop.
Sometimes there is a voltage drop across the max displays (it depends of the manufacturer), and routing 5v + gnd direct to arduino for each modules helps a lot.

Sorry I could not find the fritzing part to do a nice schematic so here is an ugly version :D
upload_2018-11-11_15-1-54.png
 
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ok thanks I will try that next..these damn max 7219's are the only things causing me problems now lol.

looking on the hobby forum it does indeed say not to daisy chain more than 2 or you will get voltage drops.
 
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WOOHOOO !
it all works perfect now thankyou,now to get everything hooked up.
I tagged 2 extra 5v leads onto display 3 and 4 and all working perfect,this is on an older simhub,once everything is wired and installed I will re install the new beta.

many thanks
 
@Wotever, since im poor and i want to buy the simhub license file, can i donate only 1$ Paypal for it? Or the minimum is 3$?

Hi ! The donator edition is given for a 3€ donation minimum for everyone since 1 year after some massive abuses (on a 1€ donation paypal would take almost everything, which at the the end would be only feeding the paypal company).
 
In dash studio when adding/editing a button there is a option "ClickScript", is that a option to click on that specific button using a script? Can you give a small example value for the ClickScript option?
simhub_clickscript.PNG
 
In dash studio when adding/editing a button there is a option "ClickScript", is that a option to click on that specific button using a script? Can you give a small example value for the ClickScript option?
View attachment 277949
It was a little experimental :D , actually the idea was to be able to set a property to change some dash behaviours (like showing a setting overlay) but it was a bit too bulky (ncalc use for that was not natural) so i've never been satisfied with this way to do and i've not followed it further.
 
It clearly depends of your settings, with these (the default settings coming from simhub) i get a sweet proportional response : View attachment 277770

You can tune it by switching to gamma mode : below "1" gamma factor will make it respond later while above "1" will make it respond earlier (not your will in this case)
View attachment 277771

Concerning the effect data on RRRE it's based on the tire grip data coming from the game.

Edit : just an example of very late response settings :
Basically raise the feedback factor, and lower a lot the gamma factor, like you can see the curve raise very late on the graph.
View attachment 277772

Hi Wotever, just reporting back. For some reason my setting had become totally messed up, I set them to as you said and now with a few alterations I have it feeling amazing! Pedal box starts to shake just before lock up....I also added in a bit of sim road feel under the seat. This software is truly amazing. Thankyou for your continued efforts.
 
good morning all :)

im using 4x max7219 led,1 lcd display,1 matrix, 4x 8 bit rgb strips and a couple of rgb leds so quite a lot of power.
I bought one of these red breakout boards for the nano and a 2amp 6v power supply so it connects thru the 2.1mm port on the breakout board.

now I thought that would allow me to pull more current from the breakout board and not the nano but according to this video I need a different breakout board (the blue one) as it still uses the nano itself to regulate the voltage (altho he is using 12v and not 6v like me)..and is the nano supplying the current or is that indeed coming from the (red) breakout board? or indeed do I need the blue one to draw more current

video
81XDdvNPWcL._SL1500_.jpg
s-l1600.jpg
 
good morning all :)

im using 4x max7219 led,1 lcd display,1 matrix, 4x 8 bit rgb strips and a couple of rgb leds so quite a lot of power.
I bought one of these red breakout boards for the nano and a 2amp 6v power supply so it connects thru the 2.1mm port on the breakout board.

now I thought that would allow me to pull more current from the breakout board and not the nano but according to this video I need a different breakout board (the blue one) as it still uses the nano itself to regulate the voltage (altho he is using 12v and not 6v like me)..and is the nano supplying the current or is that indeed coming from the (red) breakout board? or indeed do I need the blue one to draw more current

video
View attachment 278029 View attachment 278030
I've watched the video and indeed it looks like indeed that the red version would regulate only an additional 3.3v rail while the blue one have a proper 5v regulator embedded. However 6v feels a little short. On classic arduino barrel jack, the recommended voltage is 9 to 12v (https://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/WhatAdapter) In my opinion even without having the shield spec sheet in my hands I would think the requirement is the same.

I'm just taking a look to amazon, don't trust the colors, but only the specs sheet. On amazon france i've not seen any "sensor shields" providing additional 5v capability (red/blue or yellow they look all the same)
 
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