Best pedals with a $600 USD budget

[TShrimp]

Hi all. I am in the market for some new pedals. I found a lot of posts about low end (~200) and high end pedals (>$1000), but I was wondering what the best pedals would be if my budget was ~$600. I have searched the web, and can't really seem to find much if anything in at price. I am in the US, and it seems our choices are more limited here than in Europe, but it could just be I am just not looking in the right place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: I forgot to add that I have not been able to find much in the US for used pedals. It may just be a sign of the times with Covid-19.

 

[TShrimp]

I'm not sure why you'd need a plate with the HE Sprints but not the Meca Cup 1 pedals, but you've obviously done your homework.

Checking again on the HE Sprints and the plate, you are right, there is no practical way to loosen and retighten the pedals to move them without first removing the plate from your rig. That act isn't too bad to do, but I'd never do it myself for sure.

I would need the plate no matter which I purchase, but the Meca Cup1 pedals allow easy adjustment while in the plate while the HE Sprints do not .

 

[Jason Reiser]

For my money, I’d act quickly to get one of the very last ProtoSimTech PT2s For $479 plus shipping. Showing 18 units available.

 

[TShrimp]

For my money, I’d act quickly to get one of the very last ProtoSimTech PT2s For $479 plus shipping. Showing 18 units available.View attachment 417105

I looked at those, but since they are closing their doors there basically isn't a warranty .

 

[Enzo Fazzi]

Actually they answered my email this morning (Saturday). That is impressive. However, they didn't really answer the question. I had asked if https://digital-motorsports.com was an authorized distributor as they were much cheaper than who they recommended in the US. They didn't say yes or no to being an authorized distributor in the reply. Also, it looks like https://digital-motorsports.com has a US office that they did not seem to be aware of as they thought the price/shipping would make both companies the same, but I had priced both with USD, and shipping price difference was huge. That may have been my mistake, and how I described my situation to them.

I do have a question that you or someone may be able to answer. I am looking at the HE sprints as you know. I would also need the pedal plate for my setup. However, I adjust my brake pedal side to side a lot. Ex. heal/toe I move my brake a little closer to the throttle, but if racing in ACC I will move my brake a little to the left (toward clutch). It looks like I would actually have to remove the plate (which reviews say is hard to add/remove) to actually adjust the pedals. Is this correct? Have they made any changes where maybe the reviews are wrong or outdated?

Because of this I was looking at the Meca Cup 1s as they appear to be easy to move the pedals by just backing off the screw slightly, moving, and retightening. I am guessing due to the nuts they use? However, I like good customer service which HE has already demonstrated, and All4sim doesn't have a reputation one way or another in this area.

Ahh sorry, I missed the question about DM being an authorized reseller. When I read it, I thought you simply stated it. But yes, they're an authorized reseller. AFAIK, they ship from Ireland, that's where we ship their orders to.

Regarding adjustments for the brake pedal, when using flanged nuts, you can usually loosen and tighten them without having to hold the nut with a wrench, as long as you don't overdo it in either direction. So simply moving the brake left and right should be easy.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I would need the baseplate, but from reviews it looks like I have to remove the plate from the rig to move them side to side. Since I do that rather often that would be a hassle. The Meca Cup1 pedals do not require this, but I am guessing they have untested support.

I think it would be quite easy to adjust the pedal spacing on the fly with just a little fabrication:

If you can fabricate an aluminium or steel bar with two threads simillar to the distance of the mounting holes on the pedal,
you can screw the pedals with hex screws to the pedal plate.
So, when you loosen the hex screws two turns with a T handle inbus wrench they wont leave the threads but give you enough play to adjust the pedal spacing. If I wasn´t such a computer dummy i would insert a rough sketch here.

At my workbench at home that would take me an hour to fabricate, but most of the time i would be making and drinking espressi

Or you could find something like this at you home improvement store, mount it from below and fasten a nut from above.
(T handle wrench again )

LUX Schlossschraube M6 x 40 mm Edelstahl Teilgewinde 4 Stück kaufen bei OBI

Pilzkopf verhindert äußeres Einwirken auf die Schraube ✓ LUX Schlossschraube M6 x 40 mm Edelstahl Teilgewinde 4 Stück ➜ Schlossschrauben bei OBI

www.obi.de

( Warning wrong size! couldn´t be bothered to find M5x30: Maybe you have to shorten it with a hack saw)

If you don´t loosen it to much the square will not leave the slot.
And if it does it´s no big deal to get it back in there, most probably it would find it´s way on its own.

MFG Carsten

 

[dapper_10]

I have the Protosimtech for a little over 2 months now. An absolutely amazing value considering the material and component used, the adjustability, and commonly used parts makes the warranty a non-issue. I don't think you can buy anything better for $479.

I wasn't completely happy with the stock PU offering, and have since changed through trial and error with personal success, different strokes for different folks.

*Not fully mounted yet as I am still experimenting with distances.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I would need the baseplate, but from reviews it looks like I have to remove the plate from the rig to move them side to side. Since I do that rather often that would be a hassle. The Meca Cup1 pedals do not require this, but I am guessing they have untested support.

Just have some profile under plate with T-nuts, so you screw into them instead of supplied nuts. This way you can loosen screws, move the pedal and tighten back without need to hold nut with wrench. You can also add L-handle to that so you don't need Hex wrench
Another option is some quick release clamp, like this.
Use your imagination.

 

[TShrimp]

Just have some profile under plate with T-nuts, so you screw into them instead of supplied nuts. This way you can loosen screws, move the pedal and tighten back without need to hold nut with wrench. You can also add L-handle to that so you don't need Hex wrench
Another option is some quick release clamp, like this.
Use your imagination.

Where can I get one of those .

 

[TedBrosby-]

I don’t know how fast Digital Motorsports ships but for me HE sent my pedals all the way to Japan and they arrived less than two business days later. I’ve never experienced shipping that fast even from SRB and Tomo is famous for shipping fast.

 

[Kiryu]

Regarding adjustments for the brake pedal, when using flanged nuts, you can usually loosen and tighten them without having to hold the nut with a wrench, as long as you don't overdo it in either direction. So simply moving the brake left and right should be easy.

Using the supplied flange nuts indeed works well.

Seems like in early reviews the samples where not shipped with flanged nuts (like in barry's review), so the misconception spread that adjusting the already mounted pedals is quite the hassle, which it is not.

 

[TShrimp]

Using the supplied flange nuts indeed works well.

Seems like in early reviews the samples where not shipped with flanged nuts (like in barry's review), so the misconception spread that adjusting the already mounted pedals is quite the hassle, which it is not.

You are correct. Almost every review I looked at or read mentioned this. It wouldn't cause issues for many, but for some like myself (who adjust there pedals regularly) it definitely is something to consider if this had still been the case. However, with the great people that post at RD and Enzo it looks like this is a non issue.

 

[stigs2cousin]

[QUOTE="

Another option is some quick release clamp, like this.

[/QUOTE]

Thats a good idea too, doesn´t need tools and less space than L handle.

Amazon should have you covered.

MFG Carsten

 

[TedBrosby-]

I have the Protosimtech for a little over 2 months now. An absolutely amazing value considering the material and component used, the adjustability, and commonly used parts makes the warranty a non-issue. I don't think you can buy anything better for $479.

I wasn't completely happy with the stock PU offering, and have since changed through trial and error with personal success, different strokes for different folks.

*Not fully mounted yet as I am still experimenting with distances.
View attachment 417264

They look great, but IMO support is also an important issue.
They're basically going to be DIY maintained pedals from now forward since he is retiring his shop.

Note: This is one of the major issues Niels Heusinkveld personally made a priority when demand for his pedals shot up over the last 1.5 years. He focused entirely on scaling up his customer support, logistics and store front technology. When demand increases, you need to scale the parts of your business that are bottlenecks.

The extra money you pay for HE Sprints is likely rolled into this business cost. I'd prefer the PT2 Pedals cost an extra $75 a set if it means having more than a 1 year warranty and the company existing 90 days after I buy them.

 

[dapper_10]

They look great, but IMO support is also an important issue.
They're basically going to be DIY maintained pedals from now forward since he is retiring his shop.

The extra money you pay for HE Sprints is likely rolled into this business cost. I'd prefer the PT2 Pedals cost an extra $75 a set if it means having more than a 1 year warranty and the company existing 90 days after I buy them.

This was posted on their website.

 

[Clover11]

Very cool to see these will continue to be an option. My Fanatec CSL LC brake broke last night. I was able to get it back together but it is not as smooth anymore. Then about an hour after I fixed it, the sensor went crazy and thought the brake was on 26% which killed a race and took me a bit to figure out. Was able to get everything working again by uninstalling and reinstalling.

My last rigs pedal plate flexed, so that was the week point. Now I upgraded the rig and found a new weakness so I guess the next step is nicer pedals for me and this thread has been a good source of info.

I have not dicided what to do just yet, but I am glad to see that the ProtoSimTechs are still an option thought hey are sold out right now.

Anyone know when the VRS pedals will be available yet? I did not see it in their last update on their site.