Aluminium extrusion profile assistance

Hey Guys,
Scratching my head here,

I designed a rig and had it powder coated in which I have yet to build it its still boxed I took out just 1 piece to check it last week,

1593291112657.png


Here on the back for the screens I had this idea in which yes I have not seen before for mounting screens this method,
but for me looked to be a great idea for mounting them + be adjustable,

I want to use these on the corners I imagined 2 be ok for 24-27 inch but with them been 32 ultra wide I thought 2 each side would do the trick,
PIVOT-JOINT-WITH-LOCKING-LEVER-TSLOT.jpg

The idea is to use 4 of these 2 each side,
like so,
1593291293147.png


Problem why I made the thread I am not sure if to tap the holes for the mounts using a taper or thread forming I was reading, anyways I bought a taper set but in my mind I imagined be a M10 max,
looking at the set the M12 seems to be the main one that would tap the threads as of yet I have not ordered all the small brackets and corner pieces the nuts and bolts,

does this want taping with a taper set or would some thread forming bolts make the threads of the Aluminium,
would just rather ask than destroy the parts by learning when you guys have a lot of experience with this stuff,
1.jpg

2.jpg

Just looking at the pattern in the center how the parts are only on the walls for the threading leaves me not much confidence would need to be clamped.

Regards Scott
 
I use this style swivel hinges on my monitor swivel thing, and had to learn that they sack and twist a lot, both in the mounting point to the profile and in the joint itself. Might work for your application tho as your levers aren't as long.
 
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I use this style swivel hinges on my monitor swivel thing, and had to learn that they sack and twist a lot, both in the mounting point to the profile and in the joint itself. Might work for your application tho as your levers aren't as long.
On double rails or a single rail ?
will make a insane difference having them double stacked on each other for the sagging + the type of the bracket.
 
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@CC Have you looked at Motedis brackets? They offer a couple of options with a decently large span and some adjustability. The downside would be the high delivery charges on what would be a small order:

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Semi-finished-products/Laser-cut-plates/40-Slot-8/10-45-Slot-10/NEW-Pivot-plate-4045-series-Laser-cut-t=5mm::999997496.html

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Semi...e-4045-series-Laser-cut-185x5::999999021.html
Hi Paul,
I dont think now my middle 2 rails would be long enough on each end to support this type of bracket now, luckily I never purchased any parts as of yet so can play around with it all,
I bought a DD2 over 6 weeks back its still not come yet sadly and its got the simlabs mount for my profiles there with it I even had the extra pieces powder coated also so cant build it yet anyways even with the parts so dont mind waiting longer im sure 1 day get it all built :D
 
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@CC Have you looked at Motedis brackets? They offer a couple of options with a decently large span and some adjustability. The downside would be the high delivery charges on what would be a small order:

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Semi-finished-products/Laser-cut-plates/40-Slot-8/10-45-Slot-10/NEW-Pivot-plate-4045-series-Laser-cut-t=5mm::999997496.html

https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Semi...e-4045-series-Laser-cut-185x5::999999021.html
Yes would need to be quite a bit longer to support this type of mount,
I never planned on using them I never believed the other system would be an issue,
I can always purchase more pieces for the center 2,
I would double and double stack everything so these I would use 4 each side top and bottom of each bar so would need 8 to save any hassle lol
1593419009073.png
 
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On double rails or a single rail ?
will make a insane difference having them double stacked on each other for the sagging + the type of the bracket.
its this thing
ujoLPxZ.jpg

but currently I lose at least 5cm of height just from the hinges as both arms can twist against each other through the play in the hinges, most actually through the head mount on the profiles. Like on the wall piece I use extra bolts to inhibit this. I plan on adding extra profile snippets between the rails to stop the twisting (that random bracket I bolted onto it doesn't help)
 
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its this thing
ujoLPxZ.jpg

but currently I lose at least 5cm of height just from the hinges as both arms can twist against each other through the play in the hinges, most actually through the head mount on the profiles. Like on the wall piece I use extra bolts to inhibit this. I plan on adding extra profile snippets between the rails to stop the twisting (that random bracket I bolted onto it doesn't help)
Yes those telescopic style arms like this always droop down somewhat,
Mine was a little shorter and more compact,
Maybe I could thread between the 2 handles another vertical rod to stop any twisting but at that point it’s getting ridiculous :D
 
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Something else to consider is... are you really going to adjust them all the time?. Adjusting will also mean moving the external monitor along the arm to make up for the gaps at the bezels. Sounds like a faff to me.

My design for this was to use some 8040 orientated so the 80 side is level - and then put 4040 or 8040 laying on top of it at an angle with 8 standard brackets holding it together. You can even add more to the underside to support it further. A solid joint because there’s so much surface area. Would work well with 4040 too I expect. (I haven’t implemented this yet, and will likely go for an ultrawide instead.)



The pivot plates that @EsxPaul posted will be proper rock solid though.

1E2E1414-87F1-443B-A9A5-0E84B87EC984.png
 
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Something else to consider is... are you really going to adjust them all the time?. Adjusting will also mean moving the external monitor along the arm to make up for the gaps at the bezels. Sounds like a faff to me.

My design for this was to use some 8040 orientated so the 80 side is level - and then put 4040 or 8040 laying on top of it at an angle with 8 standard brackets holding it together. You can even add more to the underside to support it further. A solid joint because there’s so much surface area. Would work well with 4040 too I expect. (I haven’t implemented this yet, and will likely go for an ultrawide instead.)



The pivot plates that @EsxPaul posted will be proper rock solid though.

View attachment 384869
Thx,
I’ll try and order some of these,
It wasn’t mainly due to adjustability of the parts which would have been cool,
Was going for a more minimalist clean look, it’s in the middle of our living room was trying to get a smaller footprint of metals hanging everywhere lol
 
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Hey,

Does anyone know the best way to clean these lips off on my build when I come to it quite a few of these some sides will need to be smooth,
these look like the exact same ones I have, is there a easy way to get them to break off ?
1599395868990.png
 
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Just stick a flathead screwdriver behind and lever it off. They detach really easily.
I tried some needle nose pliers then hit it with the hammer twice then gave up lol :D
ill try it thx this way they look like there designed to come off easy.
 
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Sim-Labs (Motedis?) tabs break off much easier than those of 8020.inc. I had to use needle nose pliers on the 8020 ones.
Not sure I think there Bosch parts
I tried breathily to snap one off even took the hammer to it but left me with no confidence with it, was to try to attach it anything just looking how it come off,
I need to send 100 of them for powder coating soon so be nice to prepare the ones I need smooth which is a lot lol :D
 
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Sim-Labs (Motedis?) tabs break off much easier than those of 8020.inc. I had to use needle nose pliers on the 8020 ones.
Wow come off pretty easy the end ones but there centre ones need like 3/4 time’s more force but nothing hard to do,
88907321-E296-4815-BF89-17A77504A3C7.jpeg

Also I bought some of these as well for the centre part of the profile they just screw in with the Alen,
made loads of little adjustments to my design in places hopefully soon I’ll be able to build it all, need to send brackets and parts off to my powder coaters + order some more profile pieces abs wait some things from Germany a few different parcels with varied bits n bobs,
I’ll post some more pics later if my design before it’s done these small parts was bothering me to break the tabs off thx guys.

6A00888D-22ED-4F47-89E4-90BBD2190BAF.jpeg
 
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Very nice overall clean design. :thumbsup:
Just my two cents ... Think your design (with "ultra light" profile) will more than likely be just fine with the two hinges on each side (since 32" monitors only weigh between 12-15.5 lbs w/o stands), your arms are short (could be shorter actually to save weight. Also you are not triple hinging the arms (like the photo for the wall mount).
Suggestions:
1. Do not use threaded inserts .... use the same size bolt if possible
2. Instead of two 40x40 rails (I'm assuming) ... use single 40x80 ( ealier suggested by jamescaruthers) for all rails oriented vertically with pivot joints (i.e motis pivot joint 180°slot 8/10 or equivalent) and keep side rail only about 50mm longer than what you need to accommodate your vesa mount plate (32'" monitors max out 29" width, so your side arms only need to ±470mm long. Use angle brackets top/bottom of 40x80 for main height adjustment. I have used these at many expo setup/designs in the States and they are very solid.
3. If your stick with 40x40 rails, save your money ... forget the hand tighteners and cleaner look/tighter clamp with hex wrench.
4. Next time around, stick at least stand weight profiles to allow better internal tapping (full circle not fluted)
 
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Very nice overall clean design. :thumbsup:
Just my two cents ... Think your design (with "ultra light" profile) will more than likely be just fine with the two hinges on each side (since 32" monitors only weigh between 12-15.5 lbs w/o stands), your arms are short (could be shorter actually to save weight. Also you are not triple hinging the arms (like the photo for the wall mount).
Suggestions:
1. Do not use threaded inserts .... use the same size bolt if possible
2. Instead of two 40x40 rails (I'm assuming) ... use single 40x80 ( ealier suggested by jamescaruthers) for all rails oriented vertically with pivot joints (i.e motis pivot joint 180°slot 8/10 or equivalent) and keep side rail only about 50mm longer than what you need to accommodate your vesa mount plate (32'" monitors max out 29" width, so your side arms only need to ±470mm long. Use angle brackets top/bottom of 40x80 for main height adjustment. I have used these at many expo setup/designs in the States and they are very solid.
3. If your stick with 40x40 rails, save your money ... forget the hand tighteners and cleaner look/tighter clamp with hex wrench.
4. Next time around, stick at least stand weight profiles to allow better internal tapping (full circle not fluted)
I changed the design now based on what the guys was saying I did think the way was sound it seemed ok but went a different way with it,
I’ll post some more pics when I turn my pc on I still not build it yet :D
 
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So anyways like I was saying after the feedback I made some changes,
as my rig sits currently it uses 96 corner brackets with the black cover caps,
I have 110 with caps at the side of me,
I also have 8x of the black angle brackets shown here at the rear + 100,s of the black forged alen bolts and all the T nuts and such,
1600059922800.png

If you look under the center parts I have some more extrusion going lower I design these are for these each side 2x Behringer X touch minis so 4 in total
1600060204106.png

I also was lucky a friend ordered me some parts from Simlabs he recieved them to post me so currently waiting for these then I will send everything off for powder coating and the last few parts,
Simlabs includes, Sim Floor, 2x buttkicker LFE brackets, keyboard tray, mouse tray and such + i designed loads of parts in CAD I am sending to the 3D printers have a lovely stash of custom stuff all CAD,
1600060370023.png

1600060413152.png

4x Behringer X touch minies
1600060464557.png

1600060510830.png
1600060490744.png

its quite the animal the rig currently but once finished everything will be 100% matching colour and powder coated all with end caps I have everything currently purchased and on its way just the painting left and a couple more extrusion bars :)
 
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I still think you're making it way more heavy, expensive and complicated than it needs to be :)

Once you get this stuff in your hands you'll realise you've specified it to surviving a nuclear explosion - probably several times over.

This stuff is also more annoying to put together the more you use of it (aligning, tightening stuff up etc)
 
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