Aluminium extrusion profile assistance

[CC]

Hey Guys,
Scratching my head here,

I designed a rig and had it powder coated in which I have yet to build it its still boxed I took out just 1 piece to check it last week,

Here on the back for the screens I had this idea in which yes I have not seen before for mounting screens this method,
but for me looked to be a great idea for mounting them + be adjustable,

I want to use these on the corners I imagined 2 be ok for 24-27 inch but with them been 32 ultra wide I thought 2 each side would do the trick,

The idea is to use 4 of these 2 each side,
like so,

Problem why I made the thread I am not sure if to tap the holes for the mounts using a taper or thread forming I was reading, anyways I bought a taper set but in my mind I imagined be a M10 max,
looking at the set the M12 seems to be the main one that would tap the threads as of yet I have not ordered all the small brackets and corner pieces the nuts and bolts,

does this want taping with a taper set or would some thread forming bolts make the threads of the Aluminium,
would just rather ask than destroy the parts by learning when you guys have a lot of experience with this stuff,

Just looking at the pattern in the center how the parts are only on the walls for the threading leaves me not much confidence would need to be clamped.

Regards Scott

 

[CC]

@Andrew_WOT
Are these similar to what you used on your rig ?
I’m sure in my mind I saw some lol

 

[EsxPaul]

That profile does look a little different to the more common types you would normally see from Motedis etc. Those take a M8 tap rather than M12.



I think the threading would hold the bolts in place but I would be concerned about possible freeplay in those swivel hinges. You may also end up having to drill those out on each end to allow M12 bolts to pass through.

If you've already purchased them, you could try a test run with a couple of joints and one arm otherwise I would personally go for the more commonly seen metal plates unless you see yourself constantly needing to make adjustments.

 

[CC]

That profile does look a little different to the more common types you would normally see from Motedis etc. Those take a M8 tap rather than M12.

View attachment 384592

I think the threading would hold the bolts in place but I would be concerned about possible freeplay in those swivel hinges. You may also end up having to drill those out on each end to allow M12 bolts to pass through.

If you've already purchased them, you could try a test run with a couple of joints and one arm otherwise I would personally go for the more commonly seen metal plates unless you see yourself constantly needing to make adjustments.

Yes this is what I was thinking both sides would need to be threaded and taped to receive a M12 bolt,
I never expected this issues until I saw the centre of the extrusion looks unconventional to me, also never ordered any parts as of yet I did have everything in my basket last month come back 5 minutes later it was empty so left it lol

 

[EsxPaul]

It looks like very nice extrusion to me so don't let my last reply put you off

I'm sure you could still go through with your plan if you tapped deeper and use longer than usual bolts to give some added piece of mind.

 

[CC]

It looks like very nice extrusion to me so don't let my last reply put you off

I'm sure you could still go through with your plan if you tapped deeper and use longer than usual bolts to give some added piece of mind.

Yes was thinking this like tap the holes deep as possible to give plenty of bite,
But looking at the thread it might make even with the M12 looks tiny, I wish it was just solid like the piece you shown just a hole in the middle could have used a M8 and moved on lol I don’t have any vice to hold it, looking on YT there using drills with the tap set but wasn’t aluminium it might just tap with the set I purchased which looks quality kit,

basically designed it planned it all and then was just sat looking at this hole like wtf is this

 

[EsxPaul]

I did tap a couple of holes out on my profile (same as in the picture) and it was a complete ballache. I completely cheaped out on my tap set, tried to do the job on my front room carped and paid dearly with sweat, tears and a ton of swearing

Would have been a lot simpler if I'd paid for a decent set like the one you have

 

[Deleted member 197115]

The hinges will sag under the weight of monitors, I guess, it sags little even under the weight of keyboard tray unless you really crank the bolt down so it stops moving.
Check sim-lab mount design, afraid without custom brackets like they use, it would be hard to accomplish something solid.

Integrated monitor mount

sim-lab.eu

Powder coated profile? I thought tolerances are pretty tight to have powder coat layer on it thus anodization they use instead.

 

[Kieran527]

Have a read on the Engineering explanation of threaded hole and bolts, and how they interact and act within the threads.
I would not be placing my monitors on them profiles.
Youd want a typical hole with continuous thread to give a larger surface area of hold, not 4 small points of contact on a diameter.

 

[CC]

The hinges will sag under the weight of monitors, I guess, it sags little even under the weight of keyboard tray unless you really crank the bolt down so it stops moving.
Check sim-lab mount design, afraid without custom brackets like they use, it would be hard to accomplish something solid.

Integrated monitor mount

sim-lab.eu

Powder coated profile? I thought tolerances are pretty tight to have powder coat layer on it thus anodization they use instead.

I looked at quite a few videos and online here or there I never saw any sagging on the pivot points but could remember in my mind that I was sure you used these I can’t remember now lol

maybe I can mock it up differently in max and design some brackets to be cnc cut like the more traditional style ones,

I did the design was solid until I come across the middle of the profiles lol

regarding the powder coating I never heard anyone having issues with tolerances before.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

regarding the powder coating I never heard anyone having issues with tolerances before.

It was discussed here, but I don't have experience with powder coated aluminum profile, nor heard of anyone using it for sim rigs. May be it's fine, wouldn't be my choice though.

 

[CC]

I’m sure I saw some of these brackets in a kit I can’t find them anywhere lol
Open simracing has some but not paying those prices be cheaper to buy 2 complete triple monitor brackets

 

[CC]

It was discussed here, but I don't have experience with powder coated aluminum profile, nor heard of anyone using it for sim rigs. May be it's fine, wouldn't be my choice though.

Yes I think it’s more speculation than anything tbh, every pre made rig I ever bought has been powder coated and the bolts are always pretty tight 1st time placing them there if not I’ll scratch some off lol

 

[CC]

They even offer it on the official 80/20 website,
I highly doubt if it effects tolerances they would offer it on the products,
I saw quite a few products while searching I never heard anyone complaining over it.

Quality Anodized Aluminum Extrusions | 80/20 T-Slot Build Profiles

80/20 Anodized Finish Services - Add a protective coat to your parts with our anodizing services for aluminum extrusions and parts.

8020.net

 

[metalnwood]

I have tapped this kind of thing a number of times. This looks like it is made to be tapped. You really need to take a measurement if the ID of the part to know what tap to use.

The best way I have found to tap this is with the profile in a vice and tapping under power with a hand power drill. Doing it by hand is harder to get it started unless you have a guide to keep it in straight, i.e. something like a 3/4" or more plate with a hole in it the size of the tap. you put that on the end of the profile with the hole of the the profile hole. That will allow you to start the tap straight in the hole.

Other option if you want to use those parts is to get some threaded rod and put that through the whole length of the extrusion so it sticks out each end.. Then attach your angle pieces to the threaded rod with a nut.

Threaded rod over here is only a few $ per meter (or 3 feet)

 

[CC]

I have tapped this kind of thing a number of times. This looks like it is made to be tapped. You really need to take a measurement if the ID of the part to know what tap to use.

The best way I have found to tap this is with the profile in a vice and tapping under power with a hand power drill. Doing it by hand is harder to get it started unless you have a guide to keep it in straight, i.e. something like a 3/4" or more plate with a hole in it the size of the tap. you put that on the end of the profile with the hole of the the profile hole. That will allow you to start the tap straight in the hole.

Other option if you want to use those parts is to get some threaded rod and put that through the whole length of the extrusion so it sticks out each end.. Then attach your angle pieces to the threaded rod with a nut.

Threaded rod over here is only a few $ per meter (or 3 feet)

Hi yes what a great idea,
I did that a few times before on my rigs but with a bar not a rod to tie it together,
I do think the concept was a good one using these pivot brackets,
but listening to what @Andrew_WOT was saying with the hinges sagging on the actual pivot points has me some what second guessing it now,

I looked quite a few options and also videos on how these pivot joints was used and never saw any play in them, I suppose will depend slightly on the manufacture of the parts from experience with anything in life some things will be better quality than others for sure.

 

[CC]

I have tapped this kind of thing a number of times. This looks like it is made to be tapped. You really need to take a measurement if the ID of the part to know what tap to use.

The best way I have found to tap this is with the profile in a vice and tapping under power with a hand power drill. Doing it by hand is harder to get it started unless you have a guide to keep it in straight, i.e. something like a 3/4" or more plate with a hole in it the size of the tap. you put that on the end of the profile with the hole of the the profile hole. That will allow you to start the tap straight in the hole.

Other option if you want to use those parts is to get some threaded rod and put that through the whole length of the extrusion so it sticks out each end.. Then attach your angle pieces to the threaded rod with a nut.

Threaded rod over here is only a few $ per meter (or 3 feet)

The Aluminum profile shop where I bought the pieces from specialize in the profile and powder coating of the parts,
they dont stock any brackets or pieces and such to anything just the profiles and paints but they send me to there partner company website who specialize in all the Bosche parts and gave me a link to the 40 series page,
here on these pivot joints a link takes me here so presume its how they mount them I dont think they are taping the holes well says not,

Thing is it dont say on the page itself how large the center of the pivot joint is,
if my profile I can use here a M12 thread forming nut to carve out the threads I believe with 35nm of torque to thread it, thats going to leave a M12 size hole,
everyone of these pivot joints I have seen are all 8.5mm the hole inside,
maybe well have to tap that instead at least I bought a quality set to use on it,
I still like the rod idea anyways I mean will be rock solid with that technique I like the sound of it,
its just some info was vague and rather ask you guys then waste more time and money on a dead end idea/concept so to speak I do feel with the correct parts would do the trick perfect.


Looking here its just over 1$ a meter so max be 5-6$ better safe than sorry lol
M8-M10 much cheaper ill take a look.

 

[CC]

I have tapped this kind of thing a number of times. This looks like it is made to be tapped. You really need to take a measurement if the ID of the part to know what tap to use.

The best way I have found to tap this is with the profile in a vice and tapping under power with a hand power drill. Doing it by hand is harder to get it started unless you have a guide to keep it in straight, i.e. something like a 3/4" or more plate with a hole in it the size of the tap. you put that on the end of the profile with the hole of the the profile hole. That will allow you to start the tap straight in the hole.

Other option if you want to use those parts is to get some threaded rod and put that through the whole length of the extrusion so it sticks out each end.. Then attach your angle pieces to the threaded rod with a nut.

Threaded rod over here is only a few $ per meter (or 3 feet)

I find some more CAD parts and added them to my rig to see how it looks,
I think if I use M8 rod and M8 nuts I could get away without even taping any holes in the profiles,
and use the sheer strength of the rods to tie it altogether,
these particular ones one large washers inside some do not between the pivot parts you can see it here on the bottom one this would highly eliminate the play Andrew was talking about its the only part what would move,

here they are with locking pins on the larger washers, some of these pivot joints I have seen do not have this part or its small in comparison the larger the washer here the less play on the joint I feel with it,

looking at the Heusinkveld HE Simrig there triple monitor mounts on theirs is using the same 40 profile but only has this 1 single mount to hold everything at a 45 degree angle fixed,
the main problem with this is and what people are saying in all the reviews it shakes too much while driving all the screens and tbh we can clearly see why although yes the joint is strong will still cause some shaking I doubt 100% anyone could eliminate it if your screens are attached to the rig itself,
but comparing what hes got going on there I still feel this is a good concept with easy adjustments on the fly using the locking pivot joints,

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Hi yes what a great idea,
I did that a few times before on my rigs but with a bar not a rod to tie it together,
I do think the concept was a good one using these pivot brackets,
but listening to what @Andrew_WOT was saying with the hinges sagging on the actual pivot points has me some what second guessing it now,

I looked quite a few options and also videos on how these pivot joints was used and never saw any play in them, I suppose will depend slightly on the manufacture of the parts from experience with anything in life some things will be better quality than others for sure.

You can take closer look at the hinge and play I mentioned in Barry's video. Perhaps should not be a problem if you really tighten it down. My keyboard tray has play.

 

[Ruttman98]

They even offer it on the official 80/20 website,
I highly doubt if it effects tolerances they would offer it on the products,
I saw quite a few products while searching I never heard anyone complaining over it.
View attachment 384691

Quality Anodized Aluminum Extrusions | 80/20 T-Slot Build Profiles

80/20 Anodized Finish Services - Add a protective coat to your parts with our anodizing services for aluminum extrusions and parts.

8020.net

All standard 80/20 is anodized either clear or black and a limited number of profiles are offered in a safety yellow. I did not realize tge factory offered custom colors as a servics.

Anodizing is a thin protective layer and is much different than powdercoating in terms of thickness and hardness.