AC Modding Questions Thread

Now, what about models from games that dont have photo mode? Is taking/converting a model from a game (in posession or not) to make it openable in some program, and then using it solely for blueprint images, ripping? Also, can that be said for scratch mod models of any game?
i wouldn't mind using another model from a game as a reference to make blueprint, if it can help unlock a situation where you don't have any other options!
it's a solid base, then pictures online will do the rest, and if you are familiar with photo modelling like A3DR does (aligning your model to an actual picture to check the shape), then it should solve the potential mistakes of the "game model" ;)
 
i wouldn't mind using another model from a game as a reference to make blueprint, if it can help unlock a situation where you don't have any other options!
it's a solid base, then pictures online will do the rest, and if you are familiar with photo modelling like A3DR does (aligning your model to an actual picture to check the shape), then it should solve the potential mistakes of the "game model" ;)

Regarding that photo matching, does anyone remember where @A3DR explained the process? I recall him posting how he does it but can't find it.

The Alfa TZ2 I'm working on is one of those cars with very limited resources and I'm currently using a Forza (I think) model combined with blueprints to build it. But from what reference I have it seems like the Forza model has quite a lot of flaws and the blueprints aren't that great so they don't help me much further either, so I want to start matching it to pictures of the real car.
 
Regarding that photo matching, does anyone remember where @A3DR explained the process? I recall him posting how he does it but can't find it.
Yes, I remember well! I have a lot thank Dan for explaining it; unless I have CAD, I pretty much use this technique exclusively now!
Though recently I've found that for me, its a bit easier to build a Spline model first, which is quicker and easier to match to various photo angles. Then afterwards I can model to that spline instead. So whilst introducing an extra step, it feels quicker overall as I'm not constantly matching to photos whilst modelling, just simply focusing on getting a clean mesh :)

See here (scroll up a bit if you want to see some exterior examples): https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/toyota-sera-wip.123045/page-2#post-2411697

The Alfa TZ2 I'm working on is one of those cars with very limited resources and I'm currently using a Forza (I think) model combined with blueprints to build it. But from what reference I have it seems like the Forza model has quite a lot of flaws and the blueprints aren't that great so they don't help me much further either, so I want to start matching it to pictures of the real car.
Yeah unless its cad-derived blueprints (like the stuff you see from modern Merc/BMW/Audi etc), they are usually pretty unreliable. In fact looking at some older Forza models, I'd wager they were built on those same useless blueprints, hence funny proportions (though more modern Forza models look amazing).
I remember looking at the Forza Mk1 Focus RS and Fezza 575 as potential reference, but both were so badly made they would have just introduced extra inaccuracies.
 
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Thanks Gary for sharing the link, there might be other wip threads where I've explained this a bit, nice throwback to when I've had extra time to post a lot of work in progress pics here :geek:

Good to know the process became part of your workflow, and improved upon it using splines.
Nowadays is something I use every time, like you mentioned above it's hard to rely upon "blueprints" found on the web (remember when at least they were free? now they want us to throw money at them for some inaccurate vector drawings).
And yeah, most of these ripped Forza models have all these flaws because of this, specially their older models, lots of proportion mistakes on them.
 
When you guys are talking about spline.

Are you saying you guys use real life photo and using camera setting like focal length to get same camera setup in 3ds max/blender and than building basic outline?
If you know the camera settings then in theory it should be easier to setup a camera in 3ds to match exactly.

Though usually you are not going to know those settings, which is why the tool Dan linked to is so helpful - it works out the fov etc based on a few key measurements. So say you know the tyre size and wheelbase/track. You plot your 4 tyres in the correct position and scale in the scene, and you already have a few places in the 3d space for 3ds to try and match to a photo.

And yes, once you have some cameras setup, sure, start building a model or spline. Keep it loose in the beginning, so you can tweak it to fit different angles, and always check as many angles as possible.

Bit like this
2146ff8fb2c930464194c229084bccd9.gif
 
Anyways, there are many models on my list. Cant work on one because boring, but not too much because beginner
edit removed list lel
 
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Anyways, there are many models on my list. Cant work on one because boring, but not too much because beginner:
CL C215 AMG, S W220 AMG, C55 AMG, SL55 R230, M3 CSL, 330Ci 2005, DB7 GT, DB7 3.2, XKR X100, 147 GTA, 156 GTA, Fiat Barchetta, Ferrari 456 and M GT, 406 Coupe, SLK32 AMG, Z3M Roadster, EVO V, EVO VII, EVO IX Wagon, Impreza 90s, CLK55 AMG C208, Ferrari 348, Miata NB, Eunos Cosmo JC, Efini RX7, Legacy S402, 996 some variants, SL AMG R129, 745i E23, GranSport, Shamal, M3 E36 Sedan,306 Convertible, Integra Sedan Type R, Audi S2 Coupe, Autozam AZ1, Audi S3 mk1, E61 M5, Corvette C5 noZ06, TVR Griffith 90s, Tuscan S, Typhon, Lamborghini 6.0 VT & GT, W12 Nardo, W8 Passat, Calibra, Volvo 240 Wagon, Esprit X180 and S4 SE or GT or 2002, Cefiro, some JZX90 and JZX100 sedans,....
Wrong thread.

Actually for a post like that, there is never a right one.
 
Now another question. What method of modelling is best, poly/subdivision, spline or others? For AC modding, not generally.
I'm not sure there is one best way, its usually personal preference and depends on the kind of model you are working on.

For me, I've found I prefer working in low poly, and use an iteration or 2 of subdivision, making sure to control surface edges with smoothing groups. This helps me keep really clean and consistent poly flow across the whole car.
Only once I'm truly happy that my car is as close as I can get in terms of proportion and shape do I then move on and manually chamfer hard edges, split into panels/windows/other features etc, and of course clean up any unnecessary edges.
Nothing worse than spending a lot of time on detail work early on only to realise the overall shape is wrong - that is much harder to fix than if you work very loose in the beginning imo.



Not really the best example, as its quite old for me and I didn't make use of smoothing groups on the low poly subdivided model to get hard edges, but should give a reasonable idea:

This is the very rough low poly model with subdivision on - very easy to change shape if need be whilst maintaining a smooth appearance. Quite a few areas with either ugly poly flow or even actual gaps, but those are easy to fix later on manually.

Capture1.PNG


Then this is the same car after some cleanup and details added manually - this way each panel flows really well from one to another, helping avoid bad reflections ingame etc.

Capture.PNG


And just the same again but without the wireframe, to help see the surfaces

Capture3.PNG
 
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I'm not sure there is one best way, its usually personal preference and depends on the kind of model you are working on.

For me, I've found I prefer working in low poly, and use an iteration or 2 of subdivision, making sure to control surface edges with smoothing groups. This helps me keep really clean and consistent poly flow across the whole car.
Only once I'm truly happy that my car is as close as I can get in terms of proportion and shape do I then move on and manually chamfer hard edges, split into panels/windows/other features etc, and of course clean up any unnecessary edges.
Nothing worse than spending a lot of time on detail work early on only to realise the overall shape is wrong - that is much harder to fix than if you work very loose in the beginning imo.



Not really the best example, as its quite old for me and I didn't make use of smoothing groups on the low poly subdivided model to get hard edges, but should give a reasonable idea:

This is the very rough low poly model with subdivision on - very easy to change shape if need be whilst maintaining a smooth appearance. Quite a few areas with either ugly poly flow or even actual gaps, but those are easy to fix later on manually.

View attachment 283761

Then this is the same car after some cleanup and details added manually - this way each panel flows really well from one to another, helping avoid bad reflections ingame etc.

View attachment 283760

And just the same again but without the wireframe, to help see the surfaces

View attachment 283762
That Ferrari is wonderfully modeled! Thank you for advice!
 
Content Manager's showroom makes it super easy to get these.
14wjBfV.jpg

left click the object in the window (should get a white outline) -> it pops up info about the material it uses in the sidebar. Then you can click '...' on the material or texture to find out more about it. I believe saving out the texture is only in the full version of CM otherwise you can just look at it and get inspired (or make a screenshot...)
 
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Dumb question thread, ey? Well I got one. I know this is a topic that has been spoken about for many years and still I can't get my head around a transition shader. Is there anybody who is willing to explain this (again)?

It's basic, but still.

1st Mesh = Grass
2nd Mesh = Transition Grass to Sand
3rd Mesh = Sand.

So I need to make a transition between sand and grass. Somehow I can't get to work with the shaders. Is anyone wililing to show this?
 
So, uhhh, why exactly do my materials show up as black? I've applied a basic material in Blender, UV unwrapped lazily and applied a blue color 512x512 .png for now, fixed the scale for the export etc. but when I export the .FBX, it shows up like this in the editor, even if it recognises the mat.

I can remember importing a track I made some years ago, with working mats, so huh. Something simple is surely off.

blackcar1.PNG
blackcar2.PNG


EDIT: Setting ksAmbient to 1 did make it not-black, but the texture is still not applied however.

EDIT 2: AHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHAHAH

Under Illumination, there are apparently weather, image filter etc. settings. Black and white is the default.

KS has a weird sense of humor. Oh man.

SOLVED, if you have same issue check under Illumination first.

ksplease.PNG
 
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So, uhhh, why exactly do my materials show up as black? I've applied a basic material in Blender, UV unwrapped lazily and applied a blue color 512x512 .png for now, fixed the scale for the export etc. but when I export the .FBX, it shows up like this in the editor, even if it recognises the mat.

I can remember importing a track I made some years ago, with working mats, so huh. Something simple is surely off.

View attachment 284887 View attachment 284888

EDIT: Setting ksAmbient to 1 did make it not-black, but the texture is still not applied however.

EDIT 2: AHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHAHAH

Under Illumination, there are apparently weather, image filter etc. settings. Black and white is the default.

KS has a weird sense of humor. Oh man.

SOLVED, if you have same issue check under Illumination first.

View attachment 284889
Put the first three values of the Shader in the 0.4 range, above 1 is not good.
 
Put the first three values of the Shader in the 0.4 range, above 1 is not good.
Yeah, I noticed. Anything in direct light is blinding. Thanks.

I think I'll model it a bit more to get some real form in it, then play with shaders. I can barely model the window seams without having a brain meltdown.
 
Bumping because dummy.

Very dummy question incoming: Is there any way to save the applied materials, filter, weather etc. in the editor? I think I'll go insane eventually if I have to always re-apply it all. I tried the car projects and whatnot but it always resets.
 
Bumping because dummy.

Very dummy question incoming: Is there any way to save the applied materials, filter, weather etc. in the editor? I think I'll go insane eventually if I have to always re-apply it all. I tried the car projects and whatnot but it always resets.
File>Save Persistence saved shader settings.

Utilities>Data Editor>Save Data should save weather etc.

Also if you haven't already, maximise the program and go to Layouts>Save Current, that should give you native resolution next time you load it.
 

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